B3 hot-end

9 views
Skip to first unread message

sighmon

unread,
May 1, 2013, 9:09:28 PM5/1/13
to HackerSpace - Adelaide, South Australia
Should we invest in one of these for the huxley when it's on
kickstarter?
http://www.b3innovations.com

s.

Steven Pickles

unread,
May 2, 2013, 12:28:12 AM5/2/13
to Hackadl
was there a price that I didn't see?

could be a step closer to nylon printing since it has no ptfe parts

pix





s.

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "HackerSpace - Adelaide, South Australia" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to hackerspace-adel...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to hackerspac...@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/hackerspace-adelaide?hl=en.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.



Ken

unread,
May 2, 2013, 1:56:00 AM5/2/13
to hackerspac...@googlegroups.com
Can anyone suggest why it has horizontal fins?
Is it because it is expected the zoom all over the place horizontally?
Reduces resistance to movement in the horizontal direction?
Looks cool?

Ken.

Jamie Mackenzie

unread,
May 2, 2013, 2:09:09 AM5/2/13
to HackerSpace - Adelaide, South Australia
You know they are cooling fins, right?

Ken

unread,
May 2, 2013, 2:26:17 AM5/2/13
to hackerspac...@googlegroups.com
You know hot air rises, right?
Have a look at any heatsink anywhere (else) and tell me which way the fins run.

Jamie Mackenzie

unread,
May 2, 2013, 2:51:37 AM5/2/13
to HackerSpace - Adelaide, South Australia
Yeh, I was just checking that you were not asking WHY it had fins.

I'd say it's mainly due to the geometry of the object. It's not really practical (or possible??) to have vertical fins on a cylinder that is orientated vertically. Plus it's more than likely using mostly conduction rather than convection to pull heat away given that the hot end is regulated to a specific temperature. Also, remember that you DO want a fair bit of heat at the bottom to melt the filament so you don't want to  suck the heat away. Heat sinks are put onto objects that are not heat regulated like a CPU where you just want to remove as much heat as possible and keep it cool.

Ken

unread,
May 2, 2013, 3:10:05 AM5/2/13
to hackerspac...@googlegroups.com
"Machined from a single piece of 303 Stainless Steel"
I reckon they could have the fins running any direction they want, Jamie.  However it isn't obvious (to me) whether the fins are machined or pressed on.
Could be easier to machine them the way they are rather than along the cylinder I suppose.
Conduction?  Yes, to the fins, which conduct to the air.
A bit like a soldering iron, some of which have fins toward the handle end.

The concept I like.  Has to be simpler and cleaner than current solutions.
But I'll bet they end up pretty expensive -maybe worth it though.

pix, looks like best you can do is get notified when it hits kickstarter.

Ken.  (The 3D printer wannabe who can't get all his other schemes done, so should ignore 3D.)
-Just back last Sunday from an 8300km motorbike trip, wishing I could have kept riding instead of coming back to work.

Paul Schulz

unread,
May 2, 2013, 3:15:49 AM5/2/13
to hackerspace-adelaide
Hi Ken,

My take on the design..
- Heat transfer is though conduction in the material, radiation to air, then convection (air flow)
- Large surface area maximises radiation, regardless of the angle.
- Any airflow will take the heat away from the fins, and stop it going back into the fins.
- The design would still work in a vacuum/space/on a horus balloon.

Fins along the length of the will allow hot air to flow along the length of the heater, where-as we want the heat to move away from it.
 
In the design, we want to stop heat getting up the tube, and the only way heat can flow up the tube is through the tube. Some proportion of the heat is remove by the fins at every intersection.

 


Peter Wintulich

unread,
May 2, 2013, 3:20:46 AM5/2/13
to hackerspac...@googlegroups.com
I think vertical fins  would actually conduct heat up the pipe. This would cause the length of the pipe to have a more even temperature.

Also this is made on a lathe, so it is realy simple to cut the fins the way it is shown.

Peter
-- 

Peter Wintulich

Voicetronix Pty. Ltd.
Level 1, 246 Pulteney Street,
ADELAIDE  5000
South Australia
AUSTRALIA
+61 8 8232 9112

Andrew Helgeson

unread,
May 2, 2013, 3:42:41 AM5/2/13
to hackerspac...@googlegroups.com
seriously?

machining "vertical" fins would be a bitch, you couldn't mill them, they would have to be made with a slitting saw.

you youngens with yer additive manufacturing!

:-)

Andrew

Fee Plumley

unread,
May 2, 2013, 4:11:02 AM5/2/13
to Hackerspace Adelaide
would it work across any printer? would it only work with specific materials? 

i'm pretty keen to print with wax... but i haven't drilled down into what i'd need for that yet. i figure i need to do a lot of research before i decide on which to make or buy (or indeed whether to make or buy it!).



Fee Plumley

>> "ISEA2013" the 19th Symposium on Electronic Art, Sydney 7th-16th June 2013  <<

Digital Nomad at http://reallybigroadtrip.com - making & sharing geek arts across Australia.
Head Geek at http://technoevangelist.net - spreading the word of geek since 1996.

Chat via twitterfacebook or sign up to my newsletter.

Steven Pickles

unread,
May 2, 2013, 4:26:15 AM5/2/13
to Hackadl
It is for filament based fused deposition printers, like all of the RepRaps to date. I'm going to guess that wax is too brittle to work as a filament. 

What is the end product in mind for the wax printing?

Wax might need something more like a high-temperature version of the frostruder-style design.

pix

Fee Plumley

unread,
May 2, 2013, 4:27:41 AM5/2/13
to Hackerspace Adelaide
well i'm still working out wtf i'd do w/ any kind of printer (except play). but i used to do metal casting many many years ago and I love the idea of wax moulds for casts.
but who knows...

Steven Pickles

unread,
May 2, 2013, 4:29:47 AM5/2/13
to Hackadl
Ah if it's for metal casting, I hear that natural (uncoloured) PLA vapourises nicely and makes a decent wax substitute.

pix

Fee Plumley

unread,
May 2, 2013, 4:32:41 AM5/2/13
to Hackerspace Adelaide
oh REALLY?? oooooo, that's good to know!

and this swanky extruder would work w/ PLA. so I'm in if someone's doing a kickstarter contribution (once we see how much they're asking).

Simon - did you get a notification of announcement?

Steven Pickles

unread,
May 2, 2013, 4:51:29 AM5/2/13
to Hackadl
you can print PLA on most any RepRap, the printer in your bus is most likely printing PLA.

Fee Plumley

unread,
May 2, 2013, 5:13:26 AM5/2/13
to Hackerspace Adelaide
yep, i know that much!

Fee Plumley

unread,
May 2, 2013, 5:14:43 AM5/2/13
to Hackerspace Adelaide
(tho the nomadic fab lab has actually been using ABS)

and thanks, i do appreciate being informed! i'm VERY likely to have not known except for the fact i've been on a repetition loop about the materials we use at fab lab since doing NFL :)

Andrew Helgeson

unread,
May 2, 2013, 5:25:14 AM5/2/13
to hackerspac...@googlegroups.com
thinking about it further, the fins arrangement would allow for fairly rapid temperature adjustment.
the very act of melting the filament will cool the extruder, the greater the metal mass the more thermal inertia, with fins it has lower mass and greater surface area.

Andrew

Steven Pickles

unread,
May 2, 2013, 5:39:08 AM5/2/13
to Hackadl
just wanted to make sure that you hadn't got the impression that you needed this shiny new hot-end to do PLA.

Steven Pickles

unread,
May 2, 2013, 5:42:28 AM5/2/13
to Hackadl
Actually it's not that small at 2". I don't think it would make sense on the huxley, it would suit a larger printer without a bowden cable. The hot-end on the huxley is more like 2cms (plus a fan).
Reply all
Reply to author
Forward
0 new messages