Jikov carb

[Nick Woods]

I'm just now trying to get my nice '57 (I think: can't find the paperwork just now!) Airone going after admiring it but not riding it for maybe 3 years. I could never get it running reliably , so figured on carb work. Now I see suggestions that swapping the old SSFA for a new cheap Jikov JAWA-type is a pragmatic way of having success, but can't find a reference to exactly which model Jikov to look for. Please help! I'm in the UK.

[guzz...@aol.com]

I wish you were on my side of the pond Nick I would send you the one I have that needs the jets to operate it. You could go the cheap route and get a small Mikuni or even an Amal will bolt right on.

Tim

On Saturday, December 6, 2025 at 12:23:31 PM CST, Nick Woods <woodsn...@gmail.com> wrote:

I'm just now trying to get my nice '57 (I think: can't find the paperwork just now!) Airone going after admiring it but not riding it for maybe 3 years. I could never get it running reliably , so figured on carb work. Now I see suggestions that swapping the old SSFA for a new cheap Jikov JAWA-type is a pragmatic way of having success, but can't find a reference to exactly which model Jikov to look for. Please help! I'm in the UK.

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[Don West]

Hi Nick   

I have recently bought a 54 Airone sport that was running rough when I first got it.  I did try a Jikov carb on it, but it didn't run any better.  I subsequently found out the condensor in the mag had failed and it was that which was causing the poor running.  I haven't tried the Jikov since replacing the condensor as it is running okay with the SS25.    

I was none the wiser as to which option to go for when ordering mine and picked this one.  https://ebay.us/m/MSkmsZ  

I do have a scan of the article from Gambalunga describing the conversion, see attached.  

Where abouts are you in the UK?  I'm in South Leicestershire, you can try the one I bought if you want.  

Don  

[Andrew Nahum]

Agree capacitor/condenser is one of first things to check. If you can’t get a Marelli one you can make do by mounting a standard Brit ignition condenser on the side.  Body drilled to connect it up and others to attach the condenser to the body.  See my pic.  Not original but quite neat. 

Maybe first simple thing to check is the soundness of the carb float. Take it out and give it a shake.  Also immerse it in hot water and see if it emits bubbles.  Brass ‘de-zincifies’ over time and cracks.  Soldering is useless as the brass becomes brittle if that’s happened. As soon as you seal one crack another develops. 

Andrew

[Nick Woods]

Thanks for the support, Chaps! 

Looking at the JAWA fit carbs, I see that there are ones to be had from India and China but I've opted for a cheapie from someone in the UK who seems to have imported a batch, probably from China. While I wait for that and an oil-tank tap from Italy, I need to de-rust and line the petrol tank, so there are a few things to do and maybe more to come. 

This Airone was first registered in Italy in 1958. Most of my bikes are a deal newer, with a selection of Ducatis from 2000 to 2019, Cagivas from 1985 to 2000, Gilera 600s from 1993 and the odd Suzuki 2T 550cc triple from 1975. Roll on the Spring when the roads may be cleaner and the weather better!

[pouma1954]

De-rust your tank by all means but then phosphate it, do not line it. Liners are to fill pin holes, not to prevent rust. They will seriously complicate any future metal work when you drop that spanner on the tank.

Paul

Envoyé depuis mon appareil Galaxy

-------- Message d'origine --------

De : Nick Woods <woodsn...@gmail.com>

Date : 08/12/2025 20:17 (GMT+01:00)

À : Guzzi Singles <guzzi-...@googlegroups.com>

Objet : Re: [guzzi-singles] Jikov carb

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[Turboguzzi]

nice to see the info on the jikob

was seriously thinking about it for my NSU Max which arrived to me with a wrong square slkide dellorto as it has this "remote float" look

at the end ended up findign a good condition original Bing so didnt order it, but good to know that these carbs originaly fitted to two strokes can work

[Nick Woods]

Paul: thanks for the phosphating suggestion. I can see how that might be good but would need to farm the process out since it seems products available are all for use prior to painting and I doubt will stand up to ethanol-containing fuel as well as epoxy-lining does. Not that it's strictly relevant in the case of the Airone but I've had very good results lining nylon tanks with Caswell epoxy to prevent degradation by ethanol. I used to have to clean the jets in the carb of my Cagiva Canyon annually because the breakdown products of the nylon would come out of solution and block the idle jet. No problem since lining that tank. It looks as though someone tried lining the Airone tank before and the inside is a real mess of red liner and rust so I'll need to strip it out and de-rust with citric acid before the epoxy goes in.

[RICHARD YAMANE]

Have it on very good authority. Caswell in glass tanks, POR15 in metal.

Rick Yamane
Importer of Vape/Powerdynamo ignition systems and Polisher of bikes at Motion Pro

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[RICHARD YAMANE]

As I understand it 2-stroke carbs will work on 4-strokes but a 4-stroke carb may not work on a 2-stroke. This came to my attention years ago when guys were trying to put 2-stroke Amals on their BSA/Triumphs. The reason I assume is a 2-stroke does not attain the same intake vacuum as your typical 4-stroke. The bodies of the Amals AFAIK are the same but they use different needle jets. The 2T jet has a shroud that helps pull the fuel up from the float bowl whereas the 4T jet is flat.

Rick Yamane
Importer of Vape/Powerdynamo ignition systems and Polisher of bikes at Motion Pro

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[Dave Knaack]

I’d whole heartedly agree with that Rick ! 

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 9, 2025, at 8:28 AM, 'RICHARD YAMANE' via Guzzi Singles <guzzi-...@googlegroups.com> wrote:



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[Dave Knaack]

Caswell is epoxy based, it needs a VERY clean surface to adhere properly for long term.  POR15 is an isocienate (sp) same as super glue   And yes it needs a good substrate also but, it’s much more tolerant and will adhere to light surface rust 

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 9, 2025, at 8:39 AM, 'RICHARD YAMANE' via Guzzi Singles <guzzi-...@googlegroups.com> wrote:



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[Paul Marx]

Nick

I derust my tanks by electrolysis. Then I rinse them out with a phosphoric acid solution readily available from numerous sources and notably places dealing in products for classic vehicles.

Phosphoric acid solutions are the basis for all anti rust products.

The inside of the tanks will then stand up to all modern fuels for donkeys years and if the tank gets dented, you can tack weld and pull the dent out without further ado which is not the case if the tank is lined, you'll need to get the liner out.

Plastic and fibreglass tanks are another matter. I only have one modern motorcycle with a plastic tank and it's totally impervious to modern fuel.

New fibreglass doesn't like lead free, which has been around a while now. It gets dissolved.Those tanks need lining.

Old fibreglass tanks that have been around decades can take all that you put into them.

Paul

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[Andrew Nahum]

My preference is to tumble a steel tank with balls or nuts until it is clean and effectively shot-peened inside. Then phosphoric acid.  I have seen rust spots about the size of a pinhead through the filler cap, even so but no flakes of the kind that pack into the carb jets.  My Guzzino has worked for 20 years since that.  But maybe petroil mix is kinder. 

With glassfibre tanks which are inherently flexible a problem with Caswells is that it sets glass hard so can crack and the fuel leaks under it.  You don’t want to twist or strain the tank when you bolt it back down. You can’t rely on the tank mountings and the tank base to really all line up flush and even , at least on a 70s Ducati, so rubber washers are good.  Also remember that the fixings in the tank itself are just embedded in the original polyester/glass layup and they don’t have much surface area or real grip in there. I reckon you only want to nip up the nuts until the tank just won’t bounce anymore.  

[robert mcwilliams]

Latest on the Stornello bearing cups from Harpers is that I think they have sent an upper and a lower cup which is just what I need but as I live in a small town out here in Aust. the postal can be a bit slow so am still waiting and hoping. Robert.

On Wed, Dec 10, 2025 at 4:45 AM Andrew Nahum <andrew...@gmail.com> wrote:

My preference is to tumble a steel tank with balls or nuts until it is clean and effectively shot-peened inside. Then phosphoric acid.  I have seen rust spots about the size of a pinhead through the filler cap, even so but no flakes of the kind that pack into the carb jets.  My Guzzino has worked for 20 years since that.  But maybe petroil mix is kinder. 

With glassfibre tanks which are inherently flexible a problem with Caswells is that it sets glass hard so can crack and the fuel leaks under it.  You don’t want to twist or strain the tank when you bolt it back down. You can’t rely on the tank mountings and the tank base to really all line up flush and even , at least on a 70s Ducati, so rubber washers are good.  Also remember that the fixings in the tank itself are just embedded in the original polyester/glass layup and they don’t have much surface area or real grip in there. I reckon you only want to nip up the nuts until the tank just won’t bounce anymore.  

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On 9 Dec 2025, at 16:55, Paul Marx <poum...@gmail.com> wrote:



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[robert mcwilliams]

Hello, arrived today  top and bottom bearing cups for my Stornello 125 from Harper Moto who are the best parts supply company in the world bar none!! These two cups will complete the project and also improve the handling somewhat!!! Thanks to all who offered advice and more , you are all wonderful people. If ever in Aust. be sure to make contact. Robert.

[Patrick Hayes]

On 12/10/25 11:06, robert mcwilliams wrote:
> If ever in Aust. be sure to make contact. Robert.

Its a big place and some of it is righteous barren. Care to note where?



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Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA
Falcone-NT and SuperAlce
www.motohayes.com