Stornello exhaust nut

[Danilo Gurovich]

Been heating it, hitting with wd40, then trying like hell to wrench it off. Won't budge. Thoughts?

Danilo Gurovich
Grosse Pointe Farms, MI

[mailc...@verizon.net]

Get a better penetrating oil than WD40, and heat the head not the nut.

 

Cam

[John Mead]

I use PB Blaster.  You can get it from an autoparts store.

 John Mead

---

From: "mailc...@verizon.net" <mailc...@verizon.net>
To: guzzi-...@googlegroups.com
Sent: Saturday, July 27, 2013 10:37 PM
Subject: [guzzi-singles] Re: Stornello exhaust nut

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Guzzi Singles" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to guzzi-single...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to guzzi-...@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/guzzi-singles.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
 
 

[Eric Todd]

Danilo, have your read this:

In a thread in the antique machinery forum, there was a discussion what to use to free up a part. Southbendmodel34 had mentioned a study in Machinist Workshop stating that Automatic transmission fluid and Acetone mixed was the best.
I just received a newsletter today from Tim Carter mentioning the same study. He had included the results of the test, which I thought interesting.

A study done by Machinist's Workshop magazine in their April 2007 issue looked at different penetrating oils to see which one did the best job of removing a rusted bolt by measuring the pounds of torque required to loosen the bolt once treated. If the study was scientifically accurate, it turns out a home brew works best!
Here's the summary of the test results:

Penetrating oil ..... Average load

None ...................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ................... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .............. 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ...... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............. 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds

[Patrick Hayes]

Use a better penetrant. PB Blaster is my favorite.

Or cook your own from ATF and Acetone.

Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA

[Don West]

Danillo

Diesel or ATF (auto transmission fluid) mixed with acetone (the wifes nail varnish remover) makes a pretty good penetrating fluid.  Don't forget to add a bit of heat, but let the acetone evaporate off first as it will burn.
If you knacker the old one in getting it off, Amazon sell a collet nut that fits perfect, just need to open up the hole in the centre a bit.  New Guzzi ones are around £40-00, this was about £6-00.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00C94GRJ8/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1#productDetails
I am sure it would be available in the US.  I seem to recall it is a 40 x 1.5mm thread.  If you Google 40 x 1.5 ring nut or collet, you will find suppliers.

Don

---

From: Patrick Hayes <peh...@comcast.net>
To: guzzi-...@googlegroups.com
Sent: Sunday, 28 July 2013, 5:29
Subject: Re: [guzzi-singles] Stornello exhaust nut

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Guzzi Singles" group.

To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to guzzi-singles+unsub...@googlegroups.com.

[Stephen Farthing]

I find the hydraulic fluid used for the break system on my T3 is pretty good. use with caution, it is also the best paint stripper I know. I don't know if you have Plastecene in the USA. (It's a modelling clay used by kids). But you could use this to make a little bath round the seized nut and put the fluid into it so the siezed nut gets a good soaking and the fluid gets time to soak in the space between the nut and the "bolt". Leave it for a couple of hours then see if it is freed. 

Hope this helps,

Steve

To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to guzzi-single...@googlegroups.com.

[Danilo Gurovich]

Thanks!  I'm off to get some ATF and an oil squirted.

Danilo Gurovich

Grosse Pointe Farms, MI

To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to guzzi-single...@googlegroups.com.

[antonio]

My thoughts on this item: usually the nut that Guzzi uses is made out of
bronze.
Now, bronze and aluminum have very close if not identical coefficient of
expansion.
So, a 50/50 mixture of ATF fluid and acetone would be the way to go.
However, in all these
years I have been successful with this trick. Let the engine run for
several minutes, until
it is up to running temperature.
Before you turn it of, with the assistance of a piece of hard wood and a
decent hammer,
tap the nut around its circumference to unsettle the threads then turn
the engine off and
with a well fitting wench try and turn the nut. This way the heat will
travel from the inside out
heating up and softening the crud that is binding the two threads together.
However if the engine does not run and/or the engine/head is off the
frame, this obviously
will not work.
Good luck,
Antonio.

[Danilo Gurovich]

Not running yet... : /

Danilo Gurovich
Grosse Pointe Farms, MI

[Pollorey]

Whatever you do, is it worth the risk of shearing the stud?  I vote for sacrificing the nut.  Do you have a calibrated hand that knows when the nut is turning and not the stud yielding?

Just grind the nut off on one flat until you hit the OD of the threads.  Soak some more, heat then apply some force...back and forth.  If no go grind away on the opposite side.

All the best,

Phil

[Danilo Gurovich]

Mission accomplished.  Had to clamp the nut with whale-jaw vice grips and lightly tap with a dead blow after soaking with ATF/acetone solution.  It didn't loosen until it had maybe 1turn left.  Bear.

Danilo Gurovich

Grosse Pointe Farms, MI

[Stephen Farthing]

Next time...soak it in the ATF/acetone for a few hours....you should find it frees up easier...

Anyway, Glad you got it off.. :-)