Socket

[Adriano Vazzoler]

Could someone tell me the size of the socket for the removal of the flywheel. I have checked the manual and I can’t see it mentioned. Thank you 

[Patrick Hughes]

Hi Adriano 29mm or 1-1/8”

 

Regards
Patrick Hughes   in the UK

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[Adriano Vazzoler]

Thank you 

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[Adriano Vazzoler]

I should have said from FalconryTurismo 1958

[Patrick Hughes]

Correct for Falcone  😊

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[Adriano Vazzoler]

😂😂

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[Patrick Hayes]

On 8/5/26 12:36, Adriano Vazzoler wrote:
> socket for the removal of the flywheel.

Adriano: Asking that question sounds like you have never removed a
Falcone flywheel. If so, you need some very critical information to
complete the task.

The central hex bolt that secures the flywheel to the crankshaft is a
standard thread. Counterclockwise to remove. However that hex bolt
head includes a very special shape or perimeter flange.

Before you can remove the center hex bolt, you must first remove the
4-slot perimeter locking ring. That ring is NOT standard threading, but
reverse or 'left hand' thread. Clockwise to remove. It will require a
special 'peg socket' to engage the four notches and loosen the ring.

Note that I wrote 'loosen', not remove. The locking ring is only
loosened and turned about 3/4ths of a single turn and left in place.

Once the perimeter ring is loose, you can now have a go at the central
hex bolt. As the central hex bolt unscrews, its integral flange will
abut the back side of the perimeter ring and the two pieces together
will create a defacto, self-contained gear puller effect to pop the
flywheel off of the crankshaft taper. It is always better to use shock
than to use force. An air gun will do the trick.

Please source or fabricate the appropriate peg socket for the perimeter
locking ring. That socket works against all four of the slots in the
ring simultaneously. Some people try to whack the perimeter ring loose
by use of a hammer and punch. Since you can only work on one slot at a
time, this technique quickly damages the edges of the cut slots and
risks damaging the threads adjacent. Remember, the locking ring is
backwards thread.

Once you have the flywheel away you will likely try to remove the cast
aluminum left side cover. Careful, there is a heavy coil spring on the
crankshaft pushing against the inner face of this cast cover. If you
remove the perimeter screws incorrectly you risk bending a screw or
stripping a screw hole. Go around the perimeter and loosen each screw
by half a turn. Repeat round and round until the screws are all out and
the spring tension is all gone. I fabricated a special tool to compress
this spring and retain all of the tension so that the screws could
easily be removed without risk.
--
Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA
Falcone-NT and SuperAlce
www.motohayes.com

[Phil Packham]

Hi Patrick
An excellent and very clear description of the procedure, with very useful precautions noted.
So much more useful than the ‘translated’ version in my Airone manual.
Do you have a dimensioned drawing of the ’special tool’ ?
Thanks
Phil

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[Alan Comfort]

You will have to obtain or make a peg spanner to remove the lock ring before you can loosen the flywheel nut. Either that or pound it out with a blunt cold chisel and hammer (not recommended). Remember that the lock ring has a left hand thread and you should only loosen it a couple of turns because it serves as a flywheel puller when you back the nut off the crankshaft.

A peg spanner can be easily made from a piece of pipe or a cheap socket wrench. An end mill on the milling machine is best but careful work with a hacksaw and file will achieve a good result. You can also buy one from the usual sources.

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[Adriano Vazzoler]

No I haven’t removed the flywheel before. Moto Guzzi singles are new to me. So thank you for the advice. I had noticed the lock ring and thought I might have to make something to fit it. I have a couple of workshop manuals but neither of them show the removal of the flywheel before. Thank you very for your advice 

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[Patrick Hayes]

On 8/5/26 17:59, 'Phil Packham' via Guzzi Singles wrote:
> Do you have a dimensioned drawing of the ’special tool’ ?

Something like this might be available commercially. Jerry Kimberlin
fabricated this for me when I first bought my SuperAlce.

Socket OD - 49mm
Socket ID - 41.5mm
Peg W - 5.2mm
Peg H - 5mm
Peg D - 3.5mm

Has survived multiple uses.

[RICHARD YAMANE]

Guzzi's are a bit different. It's great to have this list as a resource.

Rick Yamane
Importer of Vape/Powerdynamo ignition systems and Polisher of bikes at Motion Pro

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[Philip Packham]

Thanks Patrick - I am thinking that tool is to undo the lockring on the flywheel?

The tool I was enquiring about was this one in your useful procedure description - 

I fabricated a special tool to compress this spring and retain all of the tension so that the screws could easily be removed without risk.

Cheers

Phil

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<FalconeFlywheelRing.JPG>

[Patrick Hayes]

On 8/6/26 16:26, 'Philip Packham' via Guzzi Singles wrote:
> The tool I was enquiring about was this one in your useful procedure
> description -

> *I fabricated a special tool to compress this spring and retain all of
> the tension so that the screws could easily be removed without risk.*

Ah, further clarification. Here is the clutch cover clamping tool.
Simple aluminum. Other than the bore ID and the step, none of the
dimensions are critical.

Stock material 10mm or 3/8".
OD - 98mm
ID bore hole - 35.2mm
Step OD - 77.6mm
Step Depth - 1.92mm

You have the instructions to remove the flywheel. Be ready to cushion
it or catch it because it will 'pop' off and bounce to the floor (hope
it misses your toe). The center hex bolt and the now loosened lock ring
are still loose within the flywheel threaded recess. Remove those parts
so you can use the center hex bolt again in the next step.

When you remove the flywheel, the primary gear gets pushed outward
against the left side cast cover by a stout spring on the crankshaft.
If you loosen perimeter screws casually, you risk bending a screw or
warping the casting or pulling threads from the soft aluminum engine case.

In stall this disc tool over the crankshaft. The 'step' will rest
inside the ID recess of the cast cover. Install the center hex bolt
over this disc and snug it down. Now, all of the possible outward force
from the primary gear and spring is accepted and retained by this disc
clamped in place. You can now easily remove all perimeter screws in any
sequence without risk. After all perimeter screws are away, you can
gradually unscrew the center hex bot. The entire left side cover will
come outward gradually and will remain square to the crankshaft throughout.

Reverse for post-repair installation.

PS: If you try to remove the primary gear from the crankshaft you will
find it blocked by a keyway and key. Push inward on the gear by hand so
as to expose the entire key and pull the key out of its slot. You can
now relax the gear and slide it and the inner spring off of the
crankshaft taper.

[Phil Packham]

Thanks heaps, Patrick, very helpful. Do you happen to have taken a pic of it when you had it doing its job?

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> <ClutchCoverClamp.JPG>

[Patrick Hayes]

On 8/7/26 03:18, 'Phil Packham' via Guzzi Singles wrote:
> Do you happen to have taken a pic of it when you had it doing its job?

No.
But it is simple straight forward.
Remove flywheel.
Install disc over crankshaft tip.
Install original Guzzi hex nut.
Remove perimeter screws.
Remove Guzzi nut, my disc, and the entire left cover.

[Adriano Vazzoler]

I can’t remember where I read it. Regarding clutch springs, soI checked the clutch springs and found that the knurled nut only hand tighten I have now tightened it so that clutch springs are 28mm? I can now put the bike into gear. Talk about a steep learning curve. Yet again thank you one and all

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[Phil Packham]

Aha, excellent description again. Thanks Patrick.
I don’t NEED to do it yet, but may well in the future…..
cheers
Phil

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