Toyota 1mz-fe Engine Timing Belt

[Mariela Laflam]

Ihave two Camry sedans, 1995 Camry Vienta with 3VZFE and 2005 Camry Altise with 1MZFE. The engines on these cars are quite similar construction; except that 1MZFE is a refined engine over 3VZFE and has few extras like knock sensors for each cylinder, aluminium alloy to make it lighter. The timing belt in both the engines looks similar in construction and also made up of similar material. However, the duration for timing belt change is quite different engines. It is 100000 kms for 3VZFE where as 150000 for 1MZFE. That is 50000 kms difference. I am wondering why?

For reference though, the production year of the 3vz-fe was 1991 (it was loosely based on the 3vz-e) and the 1mz-fe was released in 1994, but it is likely there have been a few revisions of the 1mz-fe since it's initial release.

so there will be difference just between belt quality on the same engine type. i now have to change my in the next 50,000kms because though working properly up to 150,000kms, u wouldnt want to let it run past 50,000 as the knocking sounds the belt makes would seriously scare the pants off you.

The standard belts you get in just about every parts shop (Dayco, Bosch etc) are in most cases the same as the OEM belts, so unless it was a $2 special there shouldn't be "performance" issues. More likely it was either fitted incorrectly, or the tensioner is stuffed (which should usually be changed with the belt anyway, or at least every second change)

yea could be the wrong belt, but that would mean dayco would somehow be retarded enough to give end users the wrong belt type....and that could be ultimate retardation if they screwed it up with differences of greater margin.

either way, the box states all technicals correctly, so i can only lay the blame game on dayco atm. i'll ask my mechanic how many 'incorrect', or rather, round teethed timing belts he's had to change for customers making complaints about these dodgy belt allocations.

Thanks everyone who replied to my post, in recent years car servising distances have been increased by most new models. It used to be 10000k or six months now it is 15000k or 12 monts whichever comes first. European carslike BMW servising is 25000k. It scares me bit as the oil should get dirty for suck long distances.

"german engineering" was always around the 20k/25k mark for service interval, and even though u may think u are saving lots by doing 20k services/pa, u really dont - they just charge you a craploads at each interval. Either way, i guess its about the design of the engine, rather than a need for a universal principle of 5k/10k service intervals for all engines. Ive seen a well looked after non oxidized fury red 89' 5series been driven to 350,000kms. Yes it may cost a bomb (literally) to service, esp at high intervals, but the engine still runs brilliantly - thus their so called "engineering" seems to work.

sort of, if the belt is cracked/frayed it absolutely needs replacement, in fact is way overdue for replacement. But a belt that looks like it is in very good condition is NOT an indication that it is ok. I have removed timing belts after 100,000km that look nearly as good as the brand new one going on.

Unless you have some evidence of when it was replaced, assume it hasn't!

The equivalent Mitsu V6 of that era was 5 years or 90,000 km, whichever came first.

Best check that number. And don't forget there is a time limit too, most people just ignore that. Which the OP seems to be doing.

And that might bite you, or it might not.

Easy to tell an old belt, especially if you have a new one handy.

Compare the writing on the smooth side of the belt, an old belt will have very faded writing.

There will also be striations on the smooth side of the belt.

But a belt that looks like it is in very good condition is NOT an indication that it is ok. I have removed timing belts after 100,000km that look nearly as good as the brand new one going on.

Unless you have some evidence of when it was replaced, assume it hasn't!

Different engines tend to stress timing belts differently, 150k doesn't surprise me. But i also recall one of the smaller holdens that had to change their interval down to something like 70,000km as they were seeing failure before the original 100,000km interval.

The camry has been around long enough for us to know if the 150,000km interval is unsuitable. but as said above, don't forget the time interval too, materials will degrade with age.

Both cars up the driveway are now chain drive engines, don't miss the belt system at all.

I've still got a full belt / idlers / water pump kit here for a car I don't own anymore, it died a violent death before the change was due.

Keeping it as a nostalgia thing.

From my observations over time and by doing many belt changes Toyota seem to use belts of greater width compared with others. Perhaps that is why they are confident to specify 150,000k.

The Toyota 1KZ 3.0L diesels have the simplest belt of all. It connects the aux. shaft to the camshaft at 1:1 ratio. You can swap one in less than an hour. No crankshaft pulleys to wrestle with either!

But that may change, Honda lawn mowers with a overhead cam run a belt drive that lives in oil.

That little motor relies on the oily belt to carry oil up and lubricate the top end.

And it needs revs to do that, owners who baby it too much find valves can seize in valve guides due to a lack of lubrication.

Due to consumer demand we've been heading toward less service requirements for a while now, not more, and belt changes can cost a lot in labour with how cramped engine bays are now. I don't think the cost saving for the manufacturer is worth the decline in customer goodwill from the extra service requirements. Also I can't say that modern chain equipped engines are noticeably noisier than belt driven engines anymore.

That was the reason for the shift back to chains but then they found belt material that could run in oil PROVIDED workshops and owners understood what was required of them-

=izbYksCU_AU

Just another reason I like the comfort of carmaker warranty and dealer servicing and bye bye to all that jazz ;)

The Ford workshop stuffs up and there's no arguments or at least that's twixt the Dealer and Ford. I'll pay the dealer under warranty thanks as it's cheap insurance with free roadside assist with ours and you win with the used buyer or at trade-in time.

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