Message from Graham Buck
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Criminal Justice Major Extraordinaire
Aug 5, 2013, 11:30:50 PM8/5/13
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Hi, all,
I wanted to see how other guide dog schools have their
graduates handle something like this.
Pilot handles scavaging a little different in their
training.
I had a couple of guide dogs who did require the high
collar correction, but am thankful Odie doesn't need any of
those.
He's not able to wear the slip training collar anyway due
to his damaged trachea from birth.
However, he still worked beautifully and now, he still
does well despite being a medical alert service dog.
I'm not sure if I'd want to go back to deal with high
collar corrections, more as it does hurt me when I did it in the
past.
I look back and actually remember the time when I gave
Freedom one during training, I ended up injuring my right shoulder pretty
good.
I'm sure others would have different responses on this
more than what I would.
Bibi and son Odie
Sent: Monday, August 05, 2013 11:00 AM
Subject: Message from Graham Buck
Scavenging issues Can be one of the more difficult areas to deal with at
times with guides. They often will eye food under a table or on the floor.
Then usually when you start to move again, get up etc. the dog lunges and dives
for the food. Initially the dog may not attempt to go for it but then when it
realizes its moving away they make a quick approach to scoop it up. Many dogs
seem to time the window between being successful with receiving the correction.
They end up being corrected but it doesn't really change their behavior because
they already got the food.
Some patterning lessons help but they often don't hold once the game has ended. Negative reinforcement has to be done with a strong association to the food. Ultimately we want the dog to go into enough avoidance where they stay clear of the food and can then get reinforced for other things like going forward or getting to a curb.
I would do the set up in this way. A couple of reps. With using leave it while food is nearby but not reachable. Then move a bit closer. This time anytime the dog strains on the leash it is corrected. Start to preface it with leave it. If the dog yields to the collar pressure, orients back to the handler then praise.
The next step is to try the same thing but be right at the food. If you have a sighted friend to help that would be useful for this part. If the dog still attempts to go for the food the correction level is raised. The sighted person can quickly place their foot over the food before the dog gets it. Always remember this is a non negotiable area so you can go to a higher level correction. It's not like guide work where we are always going to ask the dog to get us to something.
The next step is to spread food all over a large space on the floor. Use something inexpensive like crackers or bread. You can try other foods later. Now walk back and forth with the dog saying leave it at first. Then say nothing and walk back and forth. Be ready to give a high level correction. Once you can walk through and you can clearly feel the dog moving away from the food then the dog has gone into avoidance. Now it will be easier to reward the dog for good behavior.
Next step would be the same scenario but instead work the dog in harness between two targets. Back and forth. You may feel the dog go off course a bit to step around the food but we can accept that because we can turn that response down a bit in the real life scenarios.
Another alternate set up system is to use flat tipper ware containers. The ones that glad makes are good. They are not expensive and are light weight. Punch or cut small holes in the containers. Fill with food of choice. This works well for more desirable morsels. Do the exercises in the same way. Work up to taking the lids off.
I would suggest practicing at least once or twice a week to be sure you have the response. We are trying to create enough avoidance without shutting the dog down. With that said if you nag the dog or pull the dog away it will just create more resistance and actually build drive to get to the food. Anytime you stop to chat with someone put the dog in a down or sit. This will let that dog know that you don't need it for anything right now and frees you up to talk. Eventually as the dog improves you can have the dog be out of a control position. For example just standing or hanging near you but not straining on the collar.
This part of training must be very clear to the dog or else the poor behaviors will continue. Hope this is useful to folks.
Some patterning lessons help but they often don't hold once the game has ended. Negative reinforcement has to be done with a strong association to the food. Ultimately we want the dog to go into enough avoidance where they stay clear of the food and can then get reinforced for other things like going forward or getting to a curb.
I would do the set up in this way. A couple of reps. With using leave it while food is nearby but not reachable. Then move a bit closer. This time anytime the dog strains on the leash it is corrected. Start to preface it with leave it. If the dog yields to the collar pressure, orients back to the handler then praise.
The next step is to try the same thing but be right at the food. If you have a sighted friend to help that would be useful for this part. If the dog still attempts to go for the food the correction level is raised. The sighted person can quickly place their foot over the food before the dog gets it. Always remember this is a non negotiable area so you can go to a higher level correction. It's not like guide work where we are always going to ask the dog to get us to something.
The next step is to spread food all over a large space on the floor. Use something inexpensive like crackers or bread. You can try other foods later. Now walk back and forth with the dog saying leave it at first. Then say nothing and walk back and forth. Be ready to give a high level correction. Once you can walk through and you can clearly feel the dog moving away from the food then the dog has gone into avoidance. Now it will be easier to reward the dog for good behavior.
Next step would be the same scenario but instead work the dog in harness between two targets. Back and forth. You may feel the dog go off course a bit to step around the food but we can accept that because we can turn that response down a bit in the real life scenarios.
Another alternate set up system is to use flat tipper ware containers. The ones that glad makes are good. They are not expensive and are light weight. Punch or cut small holes in the containers. Fill with food of choice. This works well for more desirable morsels. Do the exercises in the same way. Work up to taking the lids off.
I would suggest practicing at least once or twice a week to be sure you have the response. We are trying to create enough avoidance without shutting the dog down. With that said if you nag the dog or pull the dog away it will just create more resistance and actually build drive to get to the food. Anytime you stop to chat with someone put the dog in a down or sit. This will let that dog know that you don't need it for anything right now and frees you up to talk. Eventually as the dog improves you can have the dog be out of a control position. For example just standing or hanging near you but not straining on the collar.
This part of training must be very clear to the dog or else the poor behaviors will continue. Hope this is useful to folks.
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