Need For Speed Assemble Download
Boone Southern
It is a bit strange to run the slowest bow in the game in a speed build but the 4 arrows are simply too much % increased damage to not use it. You NEED slow on your quiver to procc the 50% multiplicator on multi!
Was looking for a multi arrow build in an ARPG to bring me back to my diablo 2 multizon (in the same boat with limited playtime, wife and 2 kids in HS). I am playing nearly the exact same build but I wanted to help you out with a few things.
need for speed assemble download
If you really want to scale your hit damage, you could remove 1 point from Hang loose in Multi shot and put it in readied arrows. The mana cost pumps up your damage due to Ethereal Arrows in the passive tree plus it is fun when using pierce to regen mana and a double shot of multi procs. Multi feels like it procs more than it should.
At level 87, I have 191 mana with about 50 coming from the low level blessing. While I can not channel nearly as long as you can, I hit much harder and can refill my entire mana pool in 6-7 punctures (25 mana back per hit). This opens you up to being able to take 1 point in the Marksman passive Barrage of Pain and 5 points in Perfect Aim. You can get a nice 100% crit multi from this as you will be switching to Puncture for a couple hits then back to flurry and the buff last 4 seconds. With high attack speed, this playstyle feels very fluid.
If you decide to go this route, you will rarely take advantage of 7 stacks of adrenaline rush with an 8 second duration) You could go for 5 stacks of adrenaline rush with 6 second cooldown and 38% chance. Then use those points to grab 1 in deep strikes and 3 in the crit base. You will probably hit 100% crit on bosses either way but this will help you crit on rare enemies quicker.
Efficient draw (you have this) takes you to 2 points in Bodkin Points, takes you to 1 point in hang loose, takes you to 1 point in back to back (you already have this). Little bit of a pain as you will need to respec other points temporarily but a couple rounds of arena will fix this.
On another note, I think the 6% per arrow damage idols are over rated. You can get 10% from one T5 suffix on helm and 15% from the chest. That alone is worth the 4 idols damage on the prefix. You can stack a lot of other stats in those slots and dedicate more of your gear to damage. I am using 2 that have dodge rating on hit (wish they were crit chance) but for the other 8 squares left over, I am getting over 400 health. IMO, those idols should be buffed about 50%.
I recently bought a Mamiya C330s with a 80mm f2.8 lens. I've cleaned and serviced these shutters before, so when its slow speeds weren't working, I decided to crack it open. I quickly discovered the issue: the slow speed assembly is completely missing. Is it actually missing, or is this just an new version of the shutter assembly?
Since its a drop-in module common to just about all the black barrel lenses, you should be able to harvest one yourself from another as-is beater lens with damaged glass. These occasionally turn up on eBay for $40 or so. Look for less popular focal lengths like the 135mm, and defects that would lower the price but have no impact on you (dented filter ring, missing aperture handle, etc). Tho realistically, it may be simpler and quicker to just look for a fully functional replacement lens, and sell this gutted one for parts/repair.
Unless this is the unusual final 80mm "S" lens from the same era as the C330S (plain black front filter rings with no engraved wording or numbers around the front elements, marked "Mamiya-Sekor-S" on the top barrel). The 80mm S has become rather scarce and sought after as the final C330S and C220F bodies gained collectible status, with prices averaging double what the normal blue dot 80mm goes for. So its probably worth the trouble of repairing an 80 S with a slow speed escapement harvested from a donor. The standard black barrel or blue dot 80mm is easier to find at reasonable replacement cost vs buying a donor for repair.
It does happen to be one of those later 80mm f2.8 lens, but I didn't know there was a increase in value for this lens. Also, is there a distinct difference between blue-dot shutters, and non-blue-dot shutters? I found a potential donor Seiko shutter on eBay, but it is a non-blue-dot shutter, are the internals close, if not identical?
Mamiya enthusiasts have been noodling over the blue dot thing forever, with no one yet coming up with a definitive accurate answer for what it even means. Mamiya itself loved to obfuscate, and was never entirely clear on the difference themselves. The only official statement they ever issued was near the end of their willingness to factory service the TLR system, when they said they would not accept lenses without the blue dot for repair anymore.
Generally speaking, the blue dot infers secondary qualities but has little or nothing to do with the actual shutter design. Lenses with the blue dot are usually (but not always) from the later production runs, usually (but not always) had tighter optical quality control with less of the sample-to-sample variation Mamiya was notorious for prior to the late 1980s, and usually (but not always) had click stops on their aperture rings. Contrary to urban legend, the blue dot does not indicate multicoating or that the shutter is dramatically more reliable. The only lens thought to be multicoated (and even that has not been proven for sure) is the 80mm S.
Judging by the photo of your 80 S shutter chamber, the mechanism is exactly the same as previous non-blue-dot black barrel lenses. The posts, screw holes and connection to the remaining geartrain appear to match the slow speed module from any other black barrel lens with no incompatibility. Mamiya and/or Seiko were alleged to have vaguely alluded to the blue dot shutter being marginally improved for reliability: if so, it never manifested in practical use (if anything, I've had more blue dot shutters fail than non-BD or chrome shutters). While its certainly possible the 80 S used a unique shutter assembly, I think your odds are 10:1 favorable its the same as the older black barrel shutters.
A point many don't realize is Mamiya previously used the "blue dot" gimmick decades earlier on the chrome lenses for their Press 6x9 rangefinder cameras. I've had several blue and non-blue press lenses open for cleaning: zero apparent mechanical difference.
Individual Mamiya lens parts are usually sold on eBay by professional camera parts dealers, who are not known for offering bargains. Its often easier-faster-cheaper to buy a donor lens, harvest the parts you need, then resell the carcass to recoup some or most of your cost. All the Mamiya lenses (of the same generation) use the same shutter parts, so you don't need the exact same lens as donor. Look for less popular lenses like the 135mm listed as having glass issues or dented rims. Lenses listed as having shutter problems are the cheapest: typically they just need to be cleaned and lubed. If you're going to harvest the slow speed module you'll be doing tedious dis-assembly anyway: soaking the donor slow speed module in naptha then applying a tiny drop of lube is barely any more effort prior to installing in your own lens.
But I've been surprised how easily I've sold off my picked-over donor Mamiya TLR lenses: as long as you're upfront about whats missing and set a realistic asking price, there always seems to be somebody needing one of the remaining parts willing to take it off your hands.
As example, I had a pristine 80mm lens set with perfect shutter but damaged rear cell in the viewing lens. Bought a donor 80mm in rough condition with perfect rear cell for $67, swapped the needed glass with mine, took a couple of other useful spares off it, then resold the carcass for $35 within three days flat. Made about the same deal when I needed shutter parts from a donor 135mm to repair an ailing 55mm.
Of course, its gotten harder this past year with the rampant price inflation of everything medium format: busted Mamiya TLR lenses that usually sat with no takers for $65 are now priced at a ridiculous $150 or more. In this fevered environment the donor approach may be priced out until the post-pandemic era cools some of the silly buying frenzy. Until then, it may be more cost effective to contact dedicated Mamiya parts dealers like Mamiya Repair. When they have items like the slow speed governor module in stock, they sell it for about $70.
Who never complained about the infinite duration of a webpack build on a project ?
I'm currently working on a big web application coded in React/Redux with server side rendering.
The application exists since 2015 and it has evolved a lot since then (M6web tech blog).
If you want to optimize the duration of a job, you have to monitor precisely the duration of it and all its sub-steps.
By doing that, you can really focus on the most expensive task.
This will save you from wasting time on optimizations that will have little impact on the system as a whole.
Use existing monitoring tools! Create them if they don't exist!