Ptcl Router Usb Storage

[Tony Phan]

Mynetwork is set up slightly different from the average household. I run a headless file server (running Ubuntu 12.04), that doubles as a torrent box and backup storage. It streams media to all the clients connected to the network. With a single internet connection, It was pretty easy to hook all devices to a single wifi router and add them to a single Workgroup. The devices could see each other on the network and share data.

One option was to buy a specific dual-WAN load balancing router. These routers are designed to accommodate more than one internet connections and can be configured to distribute the bandwidth amongst clients as needed. But these routers are slightly expensive, so I decided to set up my own multiple gateway setup using my existing wifi router (DLink DIR 655) and a new router supplied by PTCL (AN1020-25) with their connection.

Once you do so, you should be able to see both PTCL wifi AP (access point) and the DLink wifi AP in your device. Connect to the DLink wifi AP. You should now be able to access both the primary gateway (DLink router) and the secondary gateway (PTCL router) by their ip addresses. Confirm this by ensuring you can access 192.168.0.1 and 192.168.0.2 .

For the server and yourself (if you want to use the second internet connection, PTCL in my case), we will need to maunally set up connection settings. Since the DHCP server on the PTCL router is disabled, we will need to set up a static ip address if we want to connect to it (both wirelessly or via LAN cable). Static ip is extremely easy to setup and should not alarm newbies. Lets do this step by step on both Ubuntu (because my server runs Ubuntu) and Windows.

So now, we have the server torrenting only via PTCL connection, everybody else using only Wateen and my self using either Wateen or PTCL which ever I choose ? And everybody is able to access and stream media from the server. Here is a diagram of the network.

can i use adsl2+wireless router as a switch

Actually i shared a connection to some one via ethernet cable and i use wifi for my tablet thats why i am attached adsl2+wireless router as a switch how its possible can anyone help me

I powered on the device and in the main menu, opened Settings > Setup Wizard. There are self-explanatory steps which take you through Language selection, Time/Date, Weather and Network Settings. I had to modify my Network Settings due to my unconventional setup but you can stick with the defaults.

I watched a couple of news channels and some HBO. The channels are all in Standard Definition (SD 480p) which are upscaled to 1080p. After a few hours, I still have to find a channel that is broadcasted in High Definition (HD 720p or 1080p). The result is still better than the local cable I used to have.

Naturally if you stand too close to the TV you can see the result of 480p image blown up to a whopping 1080p with pixellation and artifacts visible.

One really cool feature of the box is that if you have NAS or a Home Server on the network, you can access its contents and watch your stored movies and TV shows on the TV! There is also a USB port in front of the device where you can attach an external hard drive or USB and watch pictures or other content on the TV.

This post is mainly for your information if you want to know how I came up with the performance numbers and the rating for each review. Spoiler: It's easier, though more time-consuming than you think.

During this time, I generally use the hardware for my personal needs over an extended period. The testing mentioned here is mostly about throughput speeds, which only play a part in a hardware review.

Again, the server always connects to the test hardware via a wired connection, which varies from Gigabit to 10Gbps, depending on the device. I don't test any device that has sub-Gigabit ports.

I generally use five clients for official throughput testing. They all have a relatively high-end CPU, 16GB or more RAM, and a top-tier NVMe SSD as the primary storage. They all run Windows 11 Pro (fresh installation with no bloatware) but can be quickly imaged to Windows 10 Pro if necessary.

For additional real-world Wi-Fi experience, I also use over a dozen other laptops, desktops, tablets, USB Wi-Fi adapters, IoT devices, and smartphones with different Wi-Fi standards, from Wi-Fi 4 to Wi-Fi 7.

Depending on a particular device, there might be more testing. For example, a Wi-Fi 7 router will also be tested as though it were a Wi-Fi 6/6E or Wi-Fi 5 router. But all of them have to go through these:

During this time, Wi-Fi broadcasters are used with clients of different standards and tiers, placed at various locations and distances, at times behind one or more walls. While this experience is nuanced and can't be put in numbers, it helps determine a broadcaster's real-world performance.

For standard testing, I place the satellite 40 feet away from the router unit. Then, the test client is set at 10 feet and 40 feet away from the satellite. All are within lines of sight, with no objects or walls between them.

Also, I use the star topology for the testing, meaning the satellite units (if more than one) are placed around the router unit. In other words, a 2-pack mesh will generally deliver the same test results as a 3-pack one.

Backhaul (a.k.a backbone,) on the other hand, is the link between one satellite Wi-Fi broadcaster and another, which can be the network's primary router, a switch, or another satellite unit.

This link works behind the scenes to keep the hardware units together as a system. It also determines the ceiling bandwidth (and speed) of all devices connected to the particular broadcaster. It's the backbone of the system.

When a Wi-Fi band handles backhaul and fronthaul simultaneously, only half its bandwidth is available to either end. From the perspective of a connected client, that phenomenon is called signal loss.

With this setup, I perform the copy test as mentioned above to determine the bandwidth of the system's wireless backhaul link. This link determines the total bandwidth of the satellite unit shared among its connected clients.

Again, I measure the official test score using a single high-speed Wi-Fi client using a single band at a time. This client pulls data from the test server connected to the router (or access point) via a network cable.

Note: The test for the router's NAS feature is just for reference in terms of raw speeds. I use real NAS servers (and I'd always recommend that you do, too.) That said, I generally only use the router's USB port for a short time and do not try all available applications or functions, nor do I spend time on in-depth analysis to check for conflicts or issues.

After years of working with hundreds of networking devices, I have to admit that the process can get repetitive and tedious. It's also not 100% accurate. Also, no one can try every scenario, considering a router can have many features and settings.

It's impossible to say how fast a router's Wi-Fi truly is because so many factors and elements can affect a test's outcome. That's not to mention the fact a router can change dramatically via firmware updates.

In other words, my testing doesn't mean to represent your experience of a device in terms of throughputs. Instead, it describes how better or worse a choice it is compared to others at the time of the review.

Specifically, a 5GHz Wi-Fi 4 client generally gets a faster connection speed from a Wi-Fi 4 router than a Wi-Fi 5 or Wi-Fi 6 router of the same tier. By the time you get to Wi-Fi 7, the broadcaster generally doesn't support Wi-Fi 4 devices at all.

However, the other way around is fine and dandy. You can connect a Wi-Fi 7 client to a Wi-Fi 4 (or even older) router at the fastest possible speed of the latter's standard without any problem. In other words, the backward compatibility issue is only on the broadcasting end and not on the receiving end.

Again, speed testing is just one of many things I do to evaluate networking devices. I always take the time to have real-life experiences with them before publishing my reviews. You can count on that.

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