Pulsar 150 Service Manual Pdf
Lyric Maro
I restore many vintage chronographs. While there are some unique approaches in the different brands there is a common approach and lubrication is just common sense now. I am going to service a Heuer cal 12 and I could "guess" at the lubrication of this very unique chrono I would be thrilled to have a lubrication chart from a service manual if it exists.
I think the base caliber for the Tag Hour Caliber 12 is an ETA 2892A2 so for the movement side you could just use that one.
But then the chronograph part use to be a 8510 and it isn't any special with that either, chronographs usually isn't that hard to lubricate, just in case your calibre 12 also has this module i can paste the lubrication procedure.
I have a confusion found some links below no lubrication guides no service manuals and one of them appears to be different than the rest? As far as lubrication goes just find a modern chronograph and follow those suggestions.
The base movement was a Buren/Hamilton, and the rest was a mix of Hamilton, Breitling, Heuer, and Dubois Depraz doing the module. There's a good write up on the history at Hodinkee -heuer-breitling-hamilton-50th-anniversary
Interestingly in some service literature I've seen they recommend cleaning the module assembled. Since these are all 40 something years old it's best to ignore that and disassemble for cleaning. There are a couple of thin springs in the winding system that really like to disappear. The rotor assembly is not meant to be taken apart, and it's tricky getting oil in to the axle but very important. The click for the auto reversers has a long fragile spring that needs to be carefully managed. Overall it's down on my list of movements I like; I think it was a case of "too many cooks"- but they do work well.
I was a bit tired when writing yesterday night and I see it is a bit unclear, a lesson learned, never sleep and write.
Yes there are two different versions of what sometimes is called Calibre 12 one vintage and one modern.
The vintage (which I assume this adress based on the title) is called Chronomatic Calibre 12 and are using the chronograph module shown above 8510. The lower picture is the lubrication scheme from its Tech manual using as usual just two lubricants, Synth-a-lube (Moebius 9010) and Bergeon KT22 (Grease).
This one you can see serviced in three links from @JohnR725 Watch Bloke, Watch Guy and Ranfft and i think described by @nickelsilver
The they made a modern version based on the 2892A2 which is using a Dubois-Depraz 2008 Chronograph module.
For this one I have no lubrication shematics.
This is the link shown to watchbase.com.
this is why it's helpful if the original poster would always post a photo of the watch movement they're asking about. It's not the only time we've had confusions because people either ask the egg questions without showing us the watch or hear where we have more than one watch.
then finding technical information from that seems to be nearly impossible but I vaguely recall I once found something I just can't remember why or where. They probably be helpful if we knew all the places the module has found itself attached to because that might reveal a data sheet for that watch as opposed to I don't think they give out anything other then look we make nifty modules.
as were just looking for generic guide we find out which Omega watches have a module. The module should be more or less similar I would suggest of someone's taking a module apart take lots and lots of pictures take too many pictures.
Thank you everyone for the wealth of information. I am good to go. I didn't provide a photo of the watch because I didn't have it in my shop yet and I didn't know there was a modern version.
Thanks again!!!
It seems a lot of folks out there are still getting the early, 6v AG200s back on the road. I have never really bothered with them much because the later ones have electric start, a much better 12V electrical system and other upgrades that make them the bleeding edge in AG200 technology(!).
P.S. Like my content? Has it helped you out with your AG200? If it has provided value to you and you would like to help me to continue adding content and information, check out my About/Donate page for info on doing just that! Thanks to those that contribute.
Hi Michael
All the information you need will be in the owners and service manuals that I have posted up on my blogs. As a rough guide I would use a 10W40 oil or 10W50 if you live in hotter climates. And I would tend to drop the oil at somewhere between 3000 to 5000km. The lower the better.
Cheers
AGman
Lots of people charge for motorcycle service and workshop manuals online which is a bit cheeky I reckon as they are freely available all over the internet. 5 each online or download your Bajaj manual here for free!!
Basically car is idling/stalling, which I 'think' might have to do with replacing the battery. Starting the car, it would start, then die. Only way to get it to start is to apply a little accelerator. After a few seconds, remove acceleration and car would idle, poorly (probably around 500rpm +/-). If I accelerate (1-2k rpm), and release foot, rpm would drop right down
I thought maybe fuel was dirty, but Mum said she fueled up a few days ago, but didn't notice any issues.
I checked air filter in case blocked, didn't seem to bad, a little dirty, but nothing suss.
Checked oil in case was low, and maybe causing friction in cylinder.. probably very unlikely, or pointless, but figured why not, while I had the hood up. (oil was 50% full, but needs changing)
Following the steps in the 1st link, step #6 says to "disconnect Throttle position sensor (brown in colour) connector", but there is no brown connector, just a single green one. A service manual I found shows a diagram with a brown (throttle position sensor), and a Grey (closed throttle position switch), but our Pulsar just has a single green connector. When I disconnected / reconnnected that one, the accelerator went limp, couldn't rev the car. Had to turn car off for several seconds, then on again, now back to square one.
still loaded into Torque, but pretty much nothing would connect (except acceleration, which maybe ran off protocol 3, which I think Torque said was OK). I tried OBDLink, but wouldn't work unless I had one of their readers. Also tried BlueDriver, but wouldn't detect my reader :/.
Thanks for the reply.
I had a look at the port under the dash, and it appears to be an OBD2 style connection. Looking at the Consult cables/adapters, its port connector appears to be a different style. Could it still be using a Consult protocol but with a 16pin OBD2 port? or is the car likely to be some sort of EOBD (euro?) connection ?
I'll try giving the throttle body a clean too, and maybe check for vacuum leaks while I'm at it.
I don't think it will help too much towards resolving the stalling, but yes, Japanese cars in general, and Nissans in particular, can have an OBD port physically, but not support the OBD protocol. Sometimes that is generically called J(apanese)-OBD but it is not even a country wide standard, each manufacturer and potentially model made decisions about how to implement it. OBD is only standardised in the US, and even then it only requires a specific set of functions, not all the information that might be available within the CAN
Started car, started good. RPM went to around 1k, then slowly came down to 800rpm. Good!. Let car sit few minutes, no problem. Turned car off, started again, but, now it go upto 1500rpm and sits there. Turned off / on, same thing, tried again, same thing, 1500rpm :/. I might have to try and drive around a little, hopefully it'll adjust itself again, or maybe disconnected battery to reset ECU, and go from there ?
Still haven't been able to find a service manual for this one other than going to supercheap :/. I found this video (U.S I think), talking about relearning. The throttle pictured in the video looks the same as the one in the car.
Through the IACV or into the throttle body? Would spraying into the idle valve not cause issues? I read a few posts saying that TB cleaner, if it get's into the IACV, can damage it, though I tried to keep the IACV upright, so TB cleaner didn't run into it, could that be an issue ?
And I meant for you to spray it into the IACV. You may need to have a few goes at getting some stuff in there. The best way would be to have the hose feeding it ready to pop off. Have engine running, pull hose and squirt some cleaner in, then put hose back on if it sounds like it wants to stall.
I meant for you to spray it into the IACV. You may need to have a few goes at getting some stuff in there. The best way would be to have the hose feeding it ready to pop off. Have engine running, pull hose and squirt some cleaner in, then put hose back on if it sounds like it wants to stall.
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