--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "GrassWorks: Ask-a-Grazier" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to grassworks-ask-a-g...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/grassworks-ask-a-grazier/CAK9e2pKhzcam3DFBachgQvyZq5tG11gBLADj%3DpHZ5U-er4n2ew%40mail.gmail.com.
Hi Drew,
I think Jason and Ashly asked, and you answered, most of the questions I have about the context. Now I have some questions and suggestions about the mix itself.
First a suggestion: We’ve been recommending that people avoid planting meadow fescue and orchardgrass together because they don’t seem to be very compatible. The meadow fescue is highly palatable and the orchardgrass is less so, so what tends to happen is that the meadow fescue gets overgrazed and the orchardgrass becomes rank and stemmy. Unless the site has relatively high fertility, high moisture holding soils, meadow fescue might not be the best fit for this site. You might want to swap the meadow fescue out for something else. Orchardgrass is an adaptable workhorse that performs well for beef operations and smooth brome and timothy should be compatible. I like adding a bit of perennial ryegrass or festulolium as a nurse crop. It probably will die out after a few years. Another option that you could consider with a note of caution would be improved tall fescue. We’ve had palatability problems with it here in Wisconsin, but farther south, it seems to work tolerably well and that could be a potential addition instead of meadow fescue.
Question: what is the goal in including the chicory, plantain and salad burnett? We’ve seen mixed result with all three of them under conditions here in Wisconsin. None of them contribute significantly to tonnage. They may not be worth the cost unless there’s a special reason for having them in the mix.
Question: I’m curious why you’ve settled on birdsfoot trefoil as the long-term legume for their pastures. I like seeding down multiple legume species like you have planned. That has worked well for us on our farm. We have not been able to keep much trefoil in the stand. I think it needs to seed itself to maintain a presence and most grazing rotations don’t allow enough time between grazing events.
Those are a few of my initial thoughts – curious to see what others are thinking!
Laura
Laura Paine
Grazing Outreach Program Coordinator/Resource Conservationist
University of Wisconsin Extension/ NRCS
To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/grassworks-ask-a-grazier/033401dd1a18%24ddac0b40%24990421c0%24%40gmail.com.
I’m going to push back a bit on Ashly’s comments about smooth brome! I too have seen smooth brome behave very aggressively in unmanaged or minimally managed settings, but under standard rotational grazing management, I have never seen it become dominant. Two reasons for that: first, it is a relatively palatable grass and is one of the first grasses to get grazed off and second, most sod forming grasses (with the exception of Kentucky bluegrass) raise their growing points higher into the canopy, so leaving the standard 4 inch residual often removes at least some of them, causing smooth brome to regrow more slowly than the bunch grasses. Like all species, it does have it’s faults, but those of us in the southern part of the state know that smooth brome is a good team player in mixed cool season pastures!
Laura Paine
Grazing Outreach Program Coordinator/Resource Conservationist
University of Wisconsin Extension/ NRCS
To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/grassworks-ask-a-grazier/007d01dd1aa9%240ac1c850%24204558f0%24%40gmail.com.