How To Fix Clear Coat Burn
Olimpia Sawaia
That about says it. I think I burned my clearcoat trying to polish out a scratch using focus pads on a drill. I tried to polish only for a few seconds at a time, keeping moving, and ensuring I kept the rpms under control. Never seemed to quite get all the parts of the technique right though. Sometimes the pad seemed too wet, with a bit of splatter, and other times it seemed to dry. I found it difficult to tell when I had worked the product the right amount. That may mostly be due to inexperience with these polishes though.
Ended up with a small cloudy patch just adjacent to the scratch that I was working on. It feels just as smooth as the paint, but I'm scared to try to do anything further with it. I'll snap a few pictures and post.
Let's not jump to conclusions. As long as you kept the pad moving well it would be difficult to burn through the clear. And in my experience if you did burn through it you would know. there would be no questioning it.
Quote - "The top layer of the clearcoat contains most of the Ultra Violet blocking material and is also [much] harder and less porous than the lower level. Cutting through this top layer leaves the weaker clearcoat underneath, which will oxidize [cloud] faster. The result is the cloudiness you speak of or a sunburned appearance as you seemed to imply.
Mike, I had the exact same thing happen while trying to polish out a scratch on the rambox on my truck. The rambox lids are plastic. I was using the PC with the 4" pads and SHR. I knew the scratch was deep and just held the PC, on 5, in one place too long. I freaked out. After I calmed down I spritzed the pad with DS and went over the area again with little to no pressure and it cleared it up.
Whoa, timeout. I don't want to hijack this thread, but since we're all learning here, I want to be sure this point doesn't get glossed over. Was this post meant to mean that there are 2 different layers of clearcoat? I've never heard of this. Primer, Color coat and Clear coat, but never 2 different types of clearcoat.
You can now gauge why "burning" through the clear coat is really not that difficult of a task..... and why I'm a huge fan of the Porter Cable 7424XP Polisher over the Flex XC3401VRG Polisher for novices like myself.
My guess is you are just noticing the fine scratches left by the SHR. This is normal. Try hitting it with FMP + white pad now and see what happens. I tore up a 2x2 spot on my new Mustang's hood using SHR and a hand app, believe it or not. I think this is the nature of SHR as it cuts more than FMP to remove heavier swirls. Only cure was a PC and FMP. I don't think I wore through the clear using a hand app and SHR but it did look pretty bad.
The vehicle is a 2011 Chevrolet Camaro. The location seen in the photos is the rear quarter panel/fender, just above and slightly ahead of the rear wheel. It is metal, rather than a plastic panel. I'm kicking myself because I don't remember which product I was using when I noticed the spot (SHR vs FMP).
Trust me...I'm not the expert. But I've seen some examples posted on other forums and that looks like clear failure. But on a new vehicle and with Adams? Idk, maybe you brought something out the dealer covered up?
So, I tried the check that Dylan suggested.....looking for color transfer from a hand rubbing using SHR. Maybe I goofed, but it seemed inconclusive to me (but I'm a rookie). A quick video of this process and the resulting towel are below.
Oh, good video. Dylan needs to really speak up on this one. It is tough to tell man, if the surface was indeed clean, that looks like paint transfer. I would assume though it would feel different if it were burned through.
Note: The photos have slight changes in shadows between shots, but should be relatively consistent exposures...each was taken in the same place with a point and shoot. Only changes in lighting would be due to changes in daylight as cloud roll through (and shadowing from my hands while holding the camera).
Thus, my conclusion is that I have actually cut through the clear somehow. I was extremely careful (I thought to the point of paranoia) while using the focus pads, so I am stunned that I managed to do this. Regardless, what's done is done. I'll have to consider what do do about it now. Any advice? The panel in question is at the tail end of a multi-panel scratch that may require respray. I'd hoped to polish out the rear quarter panel, and thus limit the required respray to the door and front fender.
If you have cut through the clear, find a good body shop and get that sucker fixed up. Personally though, I've used the focus pads on both a drill and the PC on my Camaro and haven't managed to cut out the clear yet so I'd be interested to have a full run down on your technique to ensure that I don't do the same Sorry though ...
I just finished an eps-epoxy short board. I accidentally sanded through my fill coat in a few spots and was wondering if a) this could be fixed with a little rattle can clear coat instead of filling and then sanding again, or b) didnt need a fix at all and could be ridden as is. Other than acouple burn throughs I am pretty happy with my sanding job so im not sure that I want to clear coat the whole thing. I was thinking just tape off the spots that needed it and spray them. If this is a bad idea tell me now please so I dont ruin all my hard work.
I have a heavy tight weave glass and a burn through usually stays visible. Surfboard glass is more forgiving, but I got this crappy glass so cheap. I learned why later. Too bad it was a lot of glass, I still have so much left.
With something that small, I would just touch it up. Since it's a thin portion, just put tape around it and have at it with a thin brush or even a toothpick with paint on the end. It by no means looks perfect but at least from far away it looks good. Others might disagree but if you're happy with the rest of the body and only a small section is the problem, I personally don't want to go through the effort of restarting.
Novus 3 is too aggressive (abrasive) to polish a painted surface. It is formulated to remove deep scratches from clear or colored plastic/acrylic like aircraft canopies and tinted sunvisorsvisors on flight helmets.Once the deep scratches are removed, Novus 2, then 1' are used to polish the surface and remove any remaining scratches and swirl marks. Try Novus 2 if you need to polish out orange peel or fisheyes; or, micromesh pads. Novus contains silicone, which prevents any additional coats of paint or clear from adhering properly. You can remove the residue by washing the part(s) in warm water and dishwashing liquid and gently scrub the parts with a soft nylon toothbrush.
How about considering changing your painting technique? When I airbrush my models, I lay the paint rather heavy (except for the initial coat). That results in nice, even, glossy coverage with no orange peel. I open the nozzle rather wide, and use fairly low air pressure (around 20-25 psi).
This is my Monogram Ultimates 1:43 scale 289 Cobra. I used Tamiya Fine White Primer, nail polish for the body color, and Testors Wet Look Clear for clear coat. This model has not been touched by any polishing cloths, rubbing compounds or waxes. Just bare clear.
I notice that most modelers are afraid to lay the paint on thick, so that creates sub-par finish. I just go nutz! Is my finish perfect? No! But it is quite good (and all those cars placed in model contests in the top 2).
A. @Mike Deborde: Yes it is very possible to have done so, ash when mixed with water or moisture can eat through a clear coat due to the fact that ash contains calcium and potassium which can be corrosive when mixed with water or moisture.
Indeed, lye for soap-making has historically been made from nothing but wood ashes and water. So the theory is there alright, but I find it highly doubtful and, again, a 12 year old car is a 12 year old paint job. There are lots of worn-out 12 year old paint jobs.Luck & Regards,
Excuse me Mike, but I live in California, and the embers from our fires here can travel for 1/4 to 1/2 mile. If the bonfire is large and vigorous and the fire-tenders are not careful, a bonfire can do the same, especially if the wind is up. If I am wrong, please explain.
Q. My family recently had a bon fire and the ashes from the fire traveled approximately 400 feet across the road and landed on the neighbors car. We will not deny that. However now the neighbors want their car repainted stating the ashes from the fire burned through their clear coat. Is this possible everyone that does body work says it's impossible. That the temperature of the ashes to burn the clear can't happen it's a 1998 gm car. They are known for clear coat issues especially for a car that sits outside year round. Thanks.
A. Hi, Mike. It does sound unlikely that ashes would burn the paint on a car 400 foot away, but ash can theoretically have a chemical effect. The paint on your neighbor's 11-12 year old car is 11-12 years old; but maybe you can offer them their choice of a $199 paint job or a $199 detailing.
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