Curses! Foiled again....
What you want to change is the cursor, which is a property of the
mapOptions object.
http://code.google.com/intl/en/apis/maps/documentation/javascript/reference.html#MapOptions
map.setOptions({draggableCursor:'crosshair'}); will set the cursor to
a crosshair.
map.setOptions({draggableCursor:null}); sets it back to default.
For a wacky cursor you can specify a url, but I prefer to stay with
something more mundane. "crosshair" pulls up an OS-determined cursor,
which helps your users recognize that they are looking at a cursor,
rather than, say, a flying toaster. You might have to do some
experimentation with the constant; pointer, hand and crosshair all
work, but I think you can also get ibeam, sizens, sizenesw, and so on.
- Jeff