Will A 7.3 Powerstroke Turbo Work On A 7.3 Idi

[Gigí Ruais]

Aturbocharger, also known as a turbo, is an additional system used by car manufacturers to boost engine power. Turbos are commonly used to deliver the same level of power in smaller cars that's usually found in larger cars.

Almost all manufacturers now offer a turbocharged model in their line-up. It means they can provide smaller engines that produce the same power output while also increasing fuel efficiency. For example, Ford have replaced their old 1.6-litre petrol engine with the new 1.0-litre turbo EcoBoost unit.

Turbos run at incredibly high speeds (up to 250,000rpm) which means they operate under huge pressures and temperatures. Typically, a turbocharger will be paired with cooling systems to cool the oil and hot air.

Turbochargers are extremely reliable. In fact, less than 1% of warranty inspections find a fault with the turbo itself; instead, blown turbos are normally the result of problems with engine lubrication or the introduction of foreign objects.

In terms of the turbocharger, it needs a constant flow of clean, quality oil. A lack of oil (oil starvation), incorrect grade of oil or poor quality oil will lead to a build up of contaminants in the engine (oil contamination). This can cause abrasive damage to the inside of the turbo.

A turbocharger is essentially made of two fundamental components: the compressor at the front and the turbine at the back. Sometimes, foreign objects such as dust particles, dirt, leaves and small stones can enter the turbo, either via the compressor inlet or turbine inlet.

If the foreign object enters the compressor housing, it often comes from the air filter. In contrast, if the foreign object causes damage to the turbine, the problem usually originates from the engine itself.

The efficiency of the turbo will be reduced if foreign objects start to damage the compressor wheels or turbine blades. To prevent this happening, your air filter should be serviced and replaced regularly. You should also check your turbo for debris.

Turbos are designed to last the lifetime of the vehicle (or around 150,000 miles); however, it's possible for them to wear out over time depending on how hard you drive the car and the original build quality of the turbo.

As soon as you spot any of the turbo failure symptoms outlined above, you should get your turbo checked as soon as possible by a qualified technician. The longer you leave it, the worse (and more expensive) the problem will get.

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I have found some stupidly cheap '03 Cobra blower cams and thinking of using them in my 4.6 DOHC Lincoln motor I'm putting in my Challenge car. Superchargers within the GRM budget that will work with the "B" head compatible intakes are not apparently available.

Add to this that I've got 2 motors that I can use to spool it (a 2.0 Zetec in front, and 4.6 in back), and I've got some reasonable turbine turning power. I also don't want to run but 8lbs of boost or so, as I have no budget for forged motor internals, or really any 'actual' racing parts inside the 4.6.

Is there any reason diesel turbos couldn't be used? Is the diesel boost pressure too high? Is there a reasonable way to modify the waste gate to make more reasonable boost numbers? Seeing a lot of CL ads for F250 & F350 diesel turbos in reasonable shape for less than a couple hundred.

At first I thought you'd never get the things to spool, since the displacement of those diesels is way greater, but they also don't turn those things very fast. Interesting thought and I hope someone has some real answers.

it depends on what truck he gets the turbo from. Things like box trucks have relatively small engines with low redlines.. a small 12 or 14 mitsu boxtruck might have a 4 cylinder turbo diesel.. it can;t be too large of that small engine would never get it to spool up before the engine hit it's redline at 3K rpms

If you're not worried about long term reliability (100,000+ miles) you'll be fine. The big difference between a turbo designed for diesels and one designed for gas engines is the metallurgy of the turbine stage. Gas engines typically have much higher EGTs so the turbine wheels and housings have fancier (more expensive) metals mixed into the cast iron to make them survive longer with higher temperature swings.

In some respects the bigger turbos are safer (in terms of bent rods) than smaller turbos as they do not make boost until the motor is spinning. People on turbobricks and volvospeed, particularly the Swedish people, use the Holsets to great effect on stock internals.

I have messed with a powerstroke turbo on my 2010 Challenge car. I was running a 350 and it would spool up fine, (accidentaly made 22psi buring a long burnout) but the thing would run out of steam before the engine reached 6000 rpm. I did have the turbo from a van which will spool up much better than the truck version so you may want to look for one of those (I don't recall the A/R ratio but it was favorable to the pickup version)

The HX series seem to come with wastegates though. I know on most gasoline turbos, if ran with no boost controller, the wastegate will limit boost to 8lbs. With performance turbos getting an optional 14lbs wastegate spring.

Not sure what the wastegate springs of a diesel turbo would be, but I imagine a lot more. Experiment with spring swaps, or find a wastegate actuator off of a gasoline car. You could also loosen the actuator rod so that it is longer and therefor opens sooner to limit your boost.

since ya'll are much more familiar with specific turbo specs than I am, can anyone recommend a turbo that spins at the lowest compressor RPM that would be effective for a 3.0? I understand it might not spool till pretty far up the rev range, but if that's a lower priority issue, what do you think? looking for potential for 400-450hp with a 6-6.5k redline if that helps.

Help my 7.3 Power Stroke cranks but will not start. So lets put down that can of starting fluid and figure out why it won't start instead of causing more damage. The first step in a 7.3 no start is to simply check the oil level. Yes the oil level. Your engine could be low by just 3-4 quarts causing a hard start. Unlike other diesel engines the Powerstroke has two oil pumps. One to lubricate the engine components and the other to operate the fuel injectors.

Next lets sit in the driver's seat. Turn the key on, does the "Wait to start light" come on? If the light does not light up check the 30 amp fuse under the steering wheel. This fuse will operate the fuel bowl heater and a power circut for the powertain control module. A common 7.3 PSD problem is the fuel bowl heater shorting out under the fuel filter, which in turn blows the fuse.

Try and crank the engine. If you have a tach guage does it move? If the computer does not see a tach signal it will not turn on the fuel. The truck must also crank fast enough. If it is not cranking fast enough it won't generate a signal for the camshaft position sensor.

Next step is checking glow plugs. Generation one and two powerstrokes will vary in their glow plug control, but I will keep this simple. On most PSD on the passenger side on the engine on top there will be a relay. This relay has four terminals. (note sometimes there are two relays next to eachother one is for glow plugs and one is for the intake heater. Also on some models the glow plug relay will look like a mini control module. do not go poking around on these wires it requires a different set of tests.) Most PSD's have the 4 post relay. One wire will have B+ all the time, across from it on the other big post this is the feed to the glow plugs. The Two other terminals smaller in size, One is key on power from the ignition switch and the other is a ground controlled by the Powertain Control Module. Verify That the relay is working. Even if it makes a click noise, verify the relay has really switched power. Now the glow plugs will need to pull about 180-190 amps when cold. This is total for all eight glow plugs. Yes that is alot of amps so be sure your battery and charging system is up to par. When your truck losses one glow plug it will become harder and harder to start. It is only a matter of time till all the glow plugs fail. Can't see the glow plugs. That's because they are located under the valve covers. AAAhhh do not use starting fluid on a hard start. If you have only 3 glow plugs working and you use starting fluid on it you are going to cause engine damage very quickly.

hi jim,sam and bj here/your info helped us get our truck started/pcm neded to be flashed and changed out crankshaft position sensor/now we don't have alt/overdrive or guages any suggestions/thanks waiting to hear from you and powerstroke/we work on a lot of them and own 2 thanks again sam/bj

hey. i tried all the above before reading ths site. i ran codes and it threw a p1212 and a p1280. i figured my icp sensor is probably shot. i replaced it ($140 at wholesale price BTW) and still nothing. i plugged in the block heater overnight to see if the glowplugs were shot. nothing. heres what happened: i went out to fire it up in the morning. i didnt drive it the day before, but the day before that it ran great. so i go to crank and wait for the light. it cranks but no start. i wait for the light again and still no start. so i went through everything listed and still nothing. after swapping icp sensors, it doesnt throw a code anymore. there is fuel in the bowl and its clean. do you have any ideas??

I have the same thing as Jeff. I last stopped the engine when it was showing signs of gas deprivation, then cranks but no start. New fuel filter, verified that diesel is pumping out, new CPS, tried heater for a few hours ... yes engine oil, NO CODES! Any ideas?

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