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Sclareol (100) (Fig. 13) is a diterpene isolated from the plant Salvia officinalis, which has been widely used as a natural fragrance. This natural compound displays a variety of biological activities such as antioxidant, antimicrobial, anticholinesterase, anti-inflammatory, and anticancer activities. Park et al. applied reconstructed human skin and human dermal fibroblasts to assess the protective effects of sclareol against the damage caused by UVB exposure and conducted a clinical trial to determine its ability to improve the signs of photoaging of human skin. They observed that sclareol enhanced the proliferation of UVB-treated Hs68 cells while it inhibited the UVB-induced expression of MMPs by modulating the AP-1 component. Reconstructed human skin models exposed to three UVB irradiations and subsequently treated with two different concentrations of sclareol (1 and 10 μM) showed reduced epidermal thickness and restored cell proliferation capacity compared to UVB irradiated 3D models not treated with this compound. In addition, in another clinical trial, researchers investigated the effect of a cosmetic formulation containing 0.02% sclareol on facial wrinkles. After 12 weeks of treatment, total wrinkle area, total wrinkle length, and percentage of wrinkle area were significantly decreased in the test group compared to the control group, suggesting that sclareol may be an effective cosmetic constituent that helps reduce UVB-induced photoaging [174].
Inflammation is a physiological response to injury, usually manifested by pain, loss of function, redness, fever, and swelling. Overproduction of inflammatory mediators such as NF-κB, TNF-α, IL-1β, IL-6, IL-8 (interleukins), ICAM-1 (intercellular adhesion molecule-1), inducible COX-2, PGE2, 5-LOX, and iNOS (inducible nitric oxide synthase) may contribute to inflammatory disease. Atopic dermatitis is a chronic inflammatory skin disease usually associated with rash, redness, and severe itching caused by various physiological and environmental factors. Anti-inflammatory natural products or extracts are often used in cosmetic formulations [105].
The cosmetic industry worldwide has been evolving over recent years. Constant product development and reformulation are required to compete and meet consumer preferences. As the baby boomer generation moves into old age, the desire to look younger and healthier has become a global priority. The influence of social media on the population and the effective dissemination of scientific research has raised awareness of the risks of using many chemicals in cosmetics and the health benefits of compounds obtained from natural resources. Ingredients from nature are becoming increasingly popular. Natural products are also abundant in nature and are sustainable. Natural products from sources such as plants (Figs. 17, 18), fungi, and marine organisms are already being used effectively as active beauty ingredients and will play an even greater role in the future, with great prospects for development.
Nanotechnology will continue to be used more and more extensively in beauty cosmetics, and formulations will be more optimized, allowing for fuller absorption of active ingredients. With the complete deciphering of the human genome, genes related to skin and aging are being elucidated one after another. In the future, more personalized and refined products will enter the market.
The JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE (JCS) publishes papers concerned with cosmetics, cosmetic products, fragrances, their formulation and their effects in skin care or in overall consumer well-being, as well as papers relating to the sciences underlying cosmetics, such as human skin physiology, color physics, physical chemistry of colloids and emulsions, or psychological effects of olfaction in humans. Papers of interest to the cosmetic industry and to the understanding of the cosmetic markets are also welcome for publication. Issues are published online bi-monthly, for a total of 6 issues a year. There are no submission fees to publish a paper in JCS.
Diversification of products that are derived from essential oils carries important implications in reducing agricultural waste and promoting the medicinal materials industry. In this study, we formulated a shampoo and a body wash product incorporated with lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus) essential oils (LEOs) and evaluated their color stability and the LEO compositional change. We first determined the color change and chemical composition of bare LEO under different storage conditions. Afterward, the washing product base was formulated, and its formulation process was optimized to minimize the color change by varying a wide range of parameters including pH, the inclusion of preservatives and antioxidants, LEO/antioxidant ratio, and emulsification temperature. The base product was then used in body wash and shampoo formulation following our previously reported procedure. The results indicated that direct incorporation of the LEO into the cosmetic products resulted in better color stability and citral retention in comparison with emulsion formation. In addition, shampoo and body wash products showed no detectible presence of compounds resulting from citral decomposition such as 3,7-dimethyl-1,3,6-octatriene, p-mentha-1,5-dien-8-ol, and p-cymene-8-ol. The current findings are expected to aid in diversifying LEO-derived commodities and justifying scalability of the cosmetics production process with a focus on the incorporation of naturally derived ingredients.
Driven by the aforementioned trusts, this study aims to evaluate the stability of LEO in the formulation of various cosmetic products. We first evaluated the color change and chemical composition of LEO under different storage conditions. Then, the formulating process of a washing product base was optimized to minimize the color change in the base. The best product base was then used in the formulation of two cosmetic products, including body wash and shampoo, following our previously reported procedure. Finally, the two products were then evaluated for the LEO volatile composition and color change. The findings are expected to aid in diversifying LEO-derived commodities and justifying the scalability of the cosmetics production process with a focus on the incorporation of naturally derived ingredients.
Incorporation of LEO into cosmetic products is usually realized through two main approaches: direct mixing and via the formation of emulsions. In the first investigation (effect of base oil on the product color), formulation conditions consisted of the following: LEO content, 3%; BHT, 1.5%; PEG-40, 15%; sodium benzoate, 0.6%; sodium lactate, 2%; DMDM-H, 0.6%; and emulsification temperature, 70C. All formulated product bases showed an aroma almost identical with that of the LEOs after short and constant storage conditions (7 days at 45C).
In this study, we attempted the incorporation of LEO into the formulation of a washing product base, shampoo, and body wash product. The process was optimized to minimize color changes and citral degradation in the final products. The incorporation of LEO into two cosmetic products via direct mixing, rather than emulsion forming with base oils or emulsifiers, gave products better color stability. The best color stability of the product base could be achieved by using the following formulation conditions: pH, v5; preservatives, sodium lactate, and DMDM-H; antioxidant, BHT; LEO/BHT ratio, 0.5:1 or 1:1 (w/w); temperature, 70C. The obtained shampoo and body wash also displayed negligible citral decomposition in comparison with the bare LEO.
Nanotechnology, a rapidly growing field of research, can be defined as any nanoscale particle with a size range of 1 nm to 100 nm. Nano-based strategies are focused on the reinforcement of various areas of science, including for the development of cosmetic product formulations.1, 2 Such technologies can improve the efficacy and characteristics of cosmetic carriers, such as solubility, transparency, color and durability.3
In dermatology, one of their main applications is to increase product efficacy by increasing skin penetration. Nanoparticles (NPs) such as solid lipid NPs, liposomes, nanoemulsions, nanosomes, carbon nanotubes, fullerene NPs and others have been used to create various cosmetic nanocarriers. Among them, fullerene and its derivatives are gaining interest in the formulation of sunscreens, makeup, anti-aging care and hair care products.4 In fact, the global market for fullerene was valued at US $474.8 million in 2020 and is expected to grow at a CAGR of 4.4% to $641.7 million by 2027.5
There are international, regional and national guidelines on stability studies of pharmaceutical products. However, there are no Indian guidelines for carrying out stability studies on drugs or cosmetics. WHO guidelines are international guidelines. These guidelines are applicable to both new drugs as well as existing drugs. The ICH guidelines are applicable to new drug substances and their formulations. ICH guidelines are applicable in ICH region (i.e. US, Europe and Japan).
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