[The Hitch Is back!

[Ainoha Sistek]

<div>Talking to my squadron mates one day, the conversation turned to trailer hitching, and Hank Bateman suggested I try a set of hitch alignment indicators. Hitch what? Hitch alignment indicators are a pair of extendable metal rods with brightly colored balls on one end; they look like old-timey automobile radio antennas. At the other end of each rod is a magnet.</div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div>The hitch is back!</div><div></div><div>DOWNLOAD: https://t.co/EQUYnpgtfZ </div><div></div><div></div><div>I began shopping for these miraculous things at my local marine and trailer specialty stores, as well as online. Do you know how much these commercially produced babies cost? Many friends and family members consider me a cheapskate, but two telescoping shafts, each with a tennis ball on top and a magnet on the bottom, for $11 to $30, was just a bit much for me.</div><div></div><div></div><div>David H. Osmolski of Charlotte Power Squadron/27 has been repairing boats since high school when his first boat, a canvas-covered canoe with cedar ribs, leaked in gallons per minute and required constant repair.</div><div></div><div></div><div>I had a hitch on rear of my 16-7 510 for years. I used a piece of tubing with another piece stuck inside of it flattened on one end with hole in it clamped under platform - like a reese hitch. I removed the hitch piece when wasn't pulling packer so I would not hit it. It worked good for all the years I used it. Just do not forget packer is back there. dougf</div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div>I built one several years ago that used 2x3" tubing that went from under the platform across the back up to the front frame where it bolted through with 1/4" plate on the front to spread the load. I think I used a piece of 1 1/2" square tubing across the catwalk to spread the hitch weight over the full width.</div><div></div><div></div><div>Please excuse the filthyness of the drill. I try not to wash the thing anymore than I have to cause I dont like getting water in the metering system. Anyway, I built this hitch maybe 15 years ago on our 5100 that is on 6" spacings.</div><div></div><div></div><div>This pic shows the verticle brace that ties in the hopper and the set mount into the hitch. The hitch is mainly different sizes of angle iron. I tryed to bolt everything together so if I had to repair it I could.</div><div></div><div></div><div>If you look at the yellow circle that I used my extra proffessional artist skills to create, you can see the small deflector I made to keep the openers from catching on the hitch brace when I raise it up. I really could have got by without it, but the openers will wear a bit so I figured I'd better be safe.</div><div></div><div></div><div>Thanks for the play by play Mark. </div><div></div><div> </div><div></div><div> I have to say though that I don't consider that knot "tied". Sure it's in the shape of a clove hitch, but that knot is only a knot when you dress it. Hell pretty much all knots are like that, but ESPECIALLY a clove. No judgement, but I couldn't imagine tying a knot in that fashion on a climb. </div><div></div><div> </div><div></div><div> If you aren't setting a clove, you haven't tied it.</div><div></div><div></div><div>I was a bit confused by this as well. </div><div></div><div> If the PAS isn't long enough, how is a tripled sling long enough? </div><div></div><div> </div><div></div><div> I had a completely different thought though. Maybe the clove on the biner did it's thing during the fall when it was loaded from above and below, and the sling came off the biner for some completely different reason?</div><div></div><div></div><div>Like most of everyone else, I'd assumed you incorrectly tied your clove hitch, but I tried re-creating the image you posted, and then sliding the rope together to see what knot it formed- a clove hitch.</div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div> </div><div></div><div> </div><div></div><div> I guess they two main things I take from this: always clip into an anchor with your personal anchor, and cinch your clove hitches tightly before weighting them. </div><div></div><div> </div><div></div><div> Edit: also didn't see the second page where someone else did this... derp</div><div></div><div></div><div>I've tried to form the coils with one hand to complete a clove hitch in the past, and ended up with a munter. I would weight the hitch while backed up on PAS, and the munter hitch would unravel and snake wildly down the spine or the gate of the carabiner. Perhaps you're mistaking the clove hitch with something else. This doesn't fall apart like in the picture when you do it correctly. At least, not in MY experience.</div><div></div><div></div><div>Typical humans. find something to blame and you are all in regardless if it is the correct scapegoat. In this case the scapegoat is the non locking biner.</div><div></div><div>There are at least two real culprits here.</div><div></div><div>#1. the clove hitch was not dressed. most knots that are not properly tightened and dressed are useless.</div><div></div><div>#2. It is difficult to properly dress a clove hitch on mini biners. So while the biner is at fault it is not because it was a non locker but because it is a mini biner. It is not impossible to properly dress a clove hitch on all mini biners but it is difficult and some biners suck for the application. Camp Nanos are tricky to clove hitch but you can make it work. You do have to really tighten them. </div><div></div><div> I have 38 years in the game and am still alive and I have zero problems tying in with a single clove hitch on a non locker providing the knot is properly dressed and tightened. If the knot won't properly dress and tighten on a particular style of biner then it's a no go. Some biners the angles are too sharp and the knot just does not look right.. If it doesn't look right chances are it is not right..</div><div></div><div></div><div>It is far from clear what the full set-up was when the cloved installation failed. The primary, perhaps only, mistake was the loose clove hitch, which, as you found, is an accident waiting to happen. Fully-tightened clove hitches are reliable and don't need to be backed up. Biners that are going to move around should be lockers, biners that are stationary in the anchor rigging can be non-lockers. I agree with Nick that one has to be especially careful with mini biners.</div><div></div><div></div><div>The bushings were broken not just once as expected, but into three separate pieces. The chrome had been worn off the hitch ball. One of the lower bearings had rusted (due to water intrusion through the dust cap).</div><div></div><div></div><div>In practice, this meant focusing on balancing the trade deficit and embracing unilateral confrontation. 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