[Wheel Horse 1057 Operation And Service Manual
Ainoha Sistek
I just found a 1057 in rough shape, but with two good engines and a deck. The deck mounting has me baffled. There is what looks like a mule drive from a newer tach-a-matic mounted on a bar that wraps around and bolted to the front frame. There is also an unused pulley mounted to the frame under the engine. The unused pulley looks like it might be used for a mower deck similar to the arrangement on my L-105. The deck on the 1057 appears to be attached to a mid-hitch - similar to yet different than the tach-a-matic mid hitches. What few pictures I have found online of a 1057 with a deck mounted show the belts routed down from the engine rather than forward.
Some pics here would help but sounds like a PO somewhere over the years adapted a late style deck to an older tractor with a front mount mule drive. The original would have ran straight down to a pulley system below the PTO. Here are some pics of what it would have looked like with the correct deck as in the manual above. This is a 1067 but same tractor only a six speed.
Excellent example of a late model deck on an early model frame. That little pulley looking thingy may be broke off on yours as it is missing in mine hence the extra springs for belt tension. Note Jeff's tractor still has the original early design on it. Early designs were prone to breaking off therefore redesigned beefier bracket as in @dclarke 's pic. This whole setup was prone to issues so lots were converted to the front mule drive. Late decks in decent shape are more available these days helped too.
Thanks guys. You saved me a lot of time with great examples of the various setups. This will be especially helpful since there are missing parts. It looks like I have a little of both, but the mule drive forerunner is what is being used to operate the deck. I now have pictures. It ain't pretty.
I think I may have over-paid at $125, but I did get two engines that will run after carb cleaning. The problem I see is the number of missing or broken parts. Just a partial list of the obvious includes seat bracket, steering wheel, tires, belts, flywheel cover, seized mower deck bearings, pin holes in mower deck, air filter housing, battery, and wiring. I should be able to get my money back getting the engines running and selling them along with whatever usable parts remain. The restorable parts don't seem rare, so I am not even sure it's worth the time.
It is probably sacrilege on this board to part out a WH, but do you guys see another option without this turning into a money pit? A full restore is not going to happen. Getting it running well and fully functional with a deck might make it worth $300-$400, but that is probably less than the rehab cost. Even that price might be wishful thinking given appearance.
You have the interim mule drive like the one in my photos above just are missing the protective plate over the front. There is a spring that goes from the arm to a small tab that would be bolted to the frame of the tractor.
thejangler as for the 657 frame I believe you can put in a 8hp kholer in it Good power there. Not to sure about a 10 or a 12. I think if you go larger you run into different belts and pulleys. Not much difference between the 6 and 8. The 8`s you can do a lot with them. I have an 8 hp do plowing with it Have a 10c.u. dump cart I fill it with dirt- rocks -wood -tow up hill with it. the thing I like it is a small frame get in to tight spaces with it. Enjoy it what ever you decide.
I am not as well versed as some other members when it comes the the subtle differences between long and short frame in 1967, but I think the 657 and 857 were both short frames and the 1057 and 1257 were long frames. I have attached the manuals for you to look at and hope you can find what you need there.
I have an 857 and have a 10hp Kohler out of a 1054 sitting on the shelf. I too am wondering if that motor will fit under the hood without modifications. Looking forward to hearing from those of you who have done this swap.
Good info from both Richard and Gary. I don't think a 10+ Kohler will fit under the hood of the short frame 657 or 857. Maybe a Tecky will but I don't know. I'm with Steve and would like to hear if anybody has tried to fit the bigger block in a short wheelbase. I'm thinking a no-go without cobbling the hood.
Interesting. I thought those were long frames. I see the 875 and 1075 use different belt guards to compensate for the difference in shaft height. Unlike the 70's b/c series where the 8hp sat on a riser plate making the shaft the same height as the bigger blocks. Interesting stuff. OK, who's got a 16hp mounted on a short frame?
Up to '66 , most hydro models had that lower lever to engage the hydro belt drive and parking brake setup . It all changed in '67 to the lever mounted on the right side at the top of the trans tunnel .
I have both a 1067 and a commando 8 (which is 1 year newer than the 857 but the same machine) The frame is deffinatly longer on the 1067 and the hood is longer and taller. A kohler 10hp is massive compared to an 8hp. I think It would take an extensive amount of modification to fit a 10hp in a 857.
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