Don Baker, Burleson, Texas 77 Kingsley twin bed
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Ok I will "stick my neck out here", confident that I will be shot down pretty quick if I'm wrong. And I promise I won't quit the forum if I am admonished.
I believe its about the path of least resistance. Obviously the a/c power is applied to the coil which will heat up like a glow plug, but only when theres water present in volume so it won't burn itself out . Its enough to heat the water pretty well. Now, water will conduct electricity, but not nearly as well as whatever the coil is made of, say some alloy of copper and tungsten. It might have say, .01 ohms of resistance or something, or, pretty much a dead short. So all that 115v ac power across that load is going to make a whole lot of current which heats the coil, yadda yadda. I do not know what the resistance of water is, but I know its going to be alot more than .01 ohms . So the juice flows where its easiest to flow, thru the coil, and maybe a couple microamps will get thru the water but that may as well be zero. So no current goes thru the stream to your skin.
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Rusty
75 Glenbrook
Philadelphia Pa
J
> To: gmc...@temp.gmcnet.org
> From: g...@bauerlein.com
> Date: Thu, 12 Nov 2009 19:28:00 -0600
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Electric shower head heater - safe?
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Why doesn't an electric hot water heater short to ground?? Why won't a metal pan short out an electic stove ,,,or shock you???Its because "MOST" heating elements are "MI" or mineral insulated. A small conductor surounded by insulating mineral with a metal jacket. Is the shower head heater safe???? Check and see if its UL listed or UL labeled.P. Leavitt{electrician since 78}
I had one of this type of heater when I spent a semester in the Philippines back in 1976. It was called a Bagwan Heater, and attached between the shower spigot and the shower head. It provided a little hot water or a lot of very lukewarm water, so it was better than nothing, but not that much. I obviously never got shocked by it, but it was a bit disconcerting standing under the shower with an electrical cord dangling over to an outlet in the next room!
One point that might be worth considering is that those heaters were attached to a metal pipe that was grounded. In a GMC, the same may not be true.
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George Rudawsky
Chicago, IL
75 Palm Beach
--- On Thu, 11/12/09, Paul Leavitt <leavi...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> From: Paul Leavitt <leavi...@yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Electric shower head heater - safe?
Sent from my iPhone
On Nov 12, 2009, at 8:47 PM, Jay Rabe <jay...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> It takes a surprisingly low amount of current to fibrillate someone.
>
>
--- On Thu, 11/12/09, Don Baker <bake...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
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I have another question about the electrical hookup. I am not an electrician, but I know just enough to get me in trouble. The instructions with this shower heater say do not hook the "ground wire" to the neutral line, but hook it to the safety ground. Aren't both neutral and safety ground essentially the same thing? I mean the neutral wire on the electric company poles are grounded to the earth at every "telephone" pole. I know in my experience in Texas a lot of the residential service boxes I have noticed both the neutral line and the safety ground go to the same lugs.
thanks again, Don Baker, Burleson, Texas - '77 Kingsley
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There was an excellent article about RV electrical systems by the RV Doctor in the FMCA magazine a few months ago, but I cannot find the link.
RVs use a different grounding system where the neutral and ground circuits must be kept seperate for safety reasons. This should always be the case, and the only time they are interconnected is when the power cable is plugged into a land receptacle (ie 220 volt land line), when the ground and neutral are combined. I don't understand all the reasoning, but it is a major safety issue if not followed.
Perhaps our electrician members can further comment.
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George Rudawsky
Chicago, IL
75 Palm Beach
I don't understand all the reasoning, but it is a major safety issue if not followed.
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Just off of the top of my head, it has something to do with the ability to energize the body or frame of an rv and or the chassis of the object in use. I think this was an issure when the land ground was lost. It also is a big issue when connecting inverters and generators.
Funny how design changes, in the pre GMC rvs, the frame was wood, most body skins were tin, little if any conduit used.
GMC comes along, metal vehicle and coach frame, plastic/aluminum body, with some conduit +/-....
Just what I can remember.
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Gatsbys' CRUISER :d
74 GLACIER X, 260
455/APC/4 bagg'r(ver3)
Remflex Manifold gaskets
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Purchased 08-18-04
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I didn't see any UL labels. Don Baker, Burleson, Texas
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I've been flamed for my comments on UL before but I had read and was on site at one point.
UL is supposed to be a trade mark for a company that does COMMISSIONED testing TO THE SPECS of the manufacturer.
They test no further than what the manufacturer tells them to do.
For instance, If they are told to test the flamability of a FIRE RESISTANT product to see if the material will extinguish if....
The materials catches fire and source of flame is removed.
If they are not paid, THEY WILL NOT TEST to see if an electric coil is present, perpetuating the material to continue to burn.
This is 6 of one, half dozen of the other but the UL label, not to be confused with the Union Label, Is not all that it is cracked up to be and you must research the UL testing to understand what you are being protected from. You will be surprised that in many cases, the protection is not what you expect.
( This information was backed up when I was at an ANSUL fire fighting school in upper Wisconson and UL was there testing a product for flamability. We were told what was being tested and what was not being tested. It is all in the control of the manufacturer. )
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Gatsbys' CRUISER :d
74 GLACIER X, 260
455/APC/4 bagg'r(ver3)
Remflex Manifold gaskets
_______________________________________________
Purchased 08-18-04
_