[GMCnet] Carter 4070 electric fuel pump plumbing

[Wayne Lawrence]

Hi everyone,
I am installing a 4070 Carter on the outside of the LH frame. The easy plumbing ( for me)would be to cut into the line in between the selector valve
and mechanical fuel pump.The mechanical pump should pull gas tru the 4070 when the selector valve is off (rear tank). I intend to control it to work
with the front gas tank only using current from the selector valve. I thought ( because the instructions say it is a pull tru pump the mechanical
pump can pull the gas tru the electric pump even when the electric pump is off ( which will be most of the time in my case).
Then I was reading on Genes site , I think, that another GMCer did it this way and his fuel pressure went down to 3 lbs unless the 4070 was
on ( my 4070 WON'T BE ON most of the time). I can't see why there should be a pressure drop.

WHAT SAY YOU GUYS?

HERE IS WHAT I READ.

"I run the Carter 4070 on our GMC. I also have a fuel pressure gauge mounted on the outside of the windshield. When I first installed the electric
pump I put it after the selector valve so I could opperate it with either tank. What I found was I had between 5 to 6 pounds of fuel pressure using
the electic and mechanical pumps. When I shut off the electric pump the fuel pressure would drop down to 3 pounds. With the electric pump bypassed I
was back up to 5 pounds.
I remounted the electric pump before the selector valve and connected it to the reserve tank only. That way if I need the electric pump I just
switch to the reserve tank. This way there is no drop in fuel pressure while running on the main tank which is what I do."
--
Wayne Lawrence
76 Birchaven
Bellflower CA
w.law...@verizon.net
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[Ken Burton]

I had mine in line like you are proposing and had all kinds of problems. The mechanical pump will NOT pump through the Carter 4070 reliably. It took
me forever to figure out what the problem was. You have 3 choices

1. Run it all the time
2. Put it in line BEFORE the selector valve
3. Jim K sells a bypass kit to allow fuel to go around the Carter P4070 when it is not running.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana

[Jon Roche]

I am not sure if my answer is helpful or not.

just how I have mine setup. not sure why you want to run the electric pump off the main tank, but you might have your reasons.

I have my electric fuel pump, between my aux, tank, and the selector valve inlet. and I have Positive wire from selector valve to fuel pump.

so my engine runs off mechanical pump, pulling from Main tank 99% of the time.

when i switch the dash switch to "aux" it switches selector to pull from "aux" tank, and also powers on the electric pump, and pushes the fuel up.


I switch my tank to "aux" just before starting the engine, I can hear it run a little bit. My engine always fires up almost instantly doing it this
way. and then I switch back to "main" after I start motor. (not everytime, just when it has been parked for more then a few hours).

I also have felt what i would determine to be vapor lock on only 2 occations. and a switch of the fuel switch to Aux, fixed the hesitation-power
loss/vapor lock.




--
75 palm beach
St. Cloud, MN
http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/

[John Wright]

Wayne,
Just put an electric fuel pump (P4070) system on a friends coach. You CANNOT pull fuel thru the 4070 as it is a gear pump. You will need to use a check valve and have a bypass around the pump. As an example see next link.

http://www.appliedgmc.com/prod.itml/icOid/562

The picture shows how to plumb it up. Jim K will sell you just the fittings or you can get them from McMasterCarr.
You also need to a low pressure shutdown switch in the electrical side to shut down the pump if the oil pressure goes away.
Go to:
<http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crt-p4070/media/instructions>
and download the PDF instruction files.
You will also need:
<http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1438/overview/>
To use in the pump control.
If your interested I have several control package schematics for the electric fuel pump. I will only send these offline for liabilities issues. If your interested contact offline.

JR Wright
78 Buskirk Stretch
75 Avion
Michigan

[Wayne Lawrence]

Hi

A BIG THANKS to all who replied.

Again I have saved time and trouble buy this site.

Thanks

[Armand Minnie]

I always wonder why people don't just use the electric pump and remove the mechanical pump. Why not just use it all the time? If an electric pump
fails it won't hurt the engine. If a mechanical pump fails (the right way) it can destroy the engine. Just wondering.
--
Armand Minnie
Marana, AZ
'76 Eleganza II TZE166V103202
http://www.minniebiz.com
http://www.gmcws.org

[Rob Mueller]

Armand,

Because you need an electric pump that feeds the Q-jet no more than 6 psi according to Doc Frohmader (Big Inch Caddy).?

Regards,
Rob M.
The Pedantic Mechanic
USAussie - Downunder
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428

-----Original Message-----
From: Armand Minnie

I always wonder why people don't just use the electric pump and remove the mechanical pump. Why not just use it all the time? If an
electric pump fails it won't hurt the engine. If a mechanical pump fails (the right way) it can destroy the engine. Just wondering.
--
Armand

[Johnny Bridges]

The pump I bought (Mr Gasket) is designed for a carburetor, says ~~4psi on it. Seems to work fine, it was less than $50 at O'Rielly's. I put it in
the aux tank line before the selector valve.

--johnny
'76 23' transmode norris
Braselton Ga.
--
"Sometimes I wonder what tomorrow's gonna bring when I think about my dirty life and times" --Warren Zevon

[Sean Kidd]

I installed my dual P4070 this spring and confirm 6psi output. If using 2 pumps you will need check valves. 6psi was ok for my carb for a while but
started to overcome the float, I replaced the float with brass, and installed a regulator and lowered the output to 4psi. Quadrajet is happy at 4psi.
--
Sean and Stephanie
73 Ex-CanyonLands 26' #317 "Oliver"
Hubler 1-Ton, Quad-Bags, Rear Disc, Reaction Arms, P.Huber TBs, 3.70:1 LSD Honda 6500 inverter gen.

Colonial Travelers

[Armand Minnie]

Rob, I don't understand your answer. The P4070 is supposed to put out 5-7 pounds which Dick Paterson said was correct. Are you saying you don't trust
it to be used full time?

--
Armand Minnie
Marana, AZ
'76 Eleganza II TZE166V103202
http://www.minniebiz.com
http://www.gmcws.org

[Rob Mueller]

Armand,

All I did was quote what Doc Frohmader noted which aligns with what Dick says. I have NO experience with the Carter 4070.

I currently have a small Facet pump (4 psi) that comes on and feeds the mechanical fuel pump when I have a vapor lock problem. I was
installed by JimB YEARS ago and works just fine. Yes, I realize that if the diaphragm fails it will pump the crankcase full of gas.
Yes, I am aware of some guy that failed several engines because he moved a fuel pump with a defective diaphragm from engine to
engine.

I purchased and will be installing in tank pumps from a Buick Riviera which put out 5-7 psi. However, I am going to feed a surge
tank which will have a return plumbed to the fuel filler vent so the net delivery pressure to the mechanical fuel pump will be damn
near zero. That system was not my idea it was Steve Southwood's. It allows you to convert to EFI simply by plumbing the outlet of
the surge tank to the EFI pump. Yes I am aware that it adds an extra pump, However, I'd rather have fuel lines under the coach
pressurized to 7 psi rather than the higher pressure an EFI system requires because if a leak were to occur the higher pressure
would result in more fuel being pumped overboard.

Regards,
Rob M.
The Pedantic Mechanic
USAussie - Downunder
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428


-----Original Message-----

[Jon Roche]

Everybody has their own opinion...

but here is mine based on my experience:

good OEM mechanical pumps are extremely reliable. for our GMC, and other vehicles i have dealt with, are also fairly inexpensive.

Yes they have a potential, to rupture, and fill your crankcase with fuel. but my opinion, even though it happens, I think the statistics would show
it to be a very rare occurrence.

my personal experience, is dealing with lots of electric fuel pump failures. However with the poor gas these days, installation of some sort of
electric pumps is almost getting to be mandatory to fix vapor lock.

I also have had good luck with a carter 4070 I installed in my jeep wagoneer. and it feels to be quite a bit better built pump then a faucet, airtex,
or mr. gasket. Even though i have both a faucet(aux line), and mr. gasket(onan) that has not failed yet on my wagoneer, i have 1 each of those
brands that went bad on my vw buggy, and am now back to a mechanical pump on my Volkswagens.

--
75 palm beach
St. Cloud, MN
http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/

[Dan Molnes]

jon, I think I'll install the 4070 like you have it in yours it seems to be
the best option,

you wired pos. from the selector valve to the pump and pump grounds its
self to frame ?

also I would like to see some pics of the wagoneer after you had it all
fixed up

did the painter finally show up ? have a good time at the ralley dan

[Jon Roche]

Dan-
Wagoneer paint job is still a mess.... I will send you a picture where it is at. It was to get color today, but I have heard that for months. Been
doing what i can without getting myself arrested to help the process along.


you are correct, positive jumpered over from the selector wire, to the pump. and ground to frame. I have an inline filter prior to the pump.

I am using just a little cube pump on the GMC, My personal opinion, even though I think the 4070 is a better pump, the 4070 is bigger and odder to
mount. so pay attention to mounting, I know on my wagoneer the 4070 hangs down below the frame rail a little bit, and that is where the wires are
at. I think a cube pump in this application(used occasionally, and as a backup) would be a easier install.

I will try to take a picture of how i have that cube pump mounted up. and if I ever get my wagoneer back, I can send you a picture of that mounting
bracket.

--
75 palm beach
St. Cloud, MN
http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/

[Dan Moines]

Sorry to hear about the wagoner .some people ought to be taken out to get reprioritized new word but you know what I mean ,thanks for the info
Sent from my iPhone

[Johnny Bridges]

The Mr Gasket pumps come with a filter which screws on the inlet. They have an integral check valve if you want to just run two of them with combined
output. I was gonna do two (had a spare off the old Jetta toad) but the tech at Mr Gasket nixed the idea. He says alcohol wil destroy the seals in
the 12D (Diesel) one; and the diesel will destroy the seals in the 12 (gasoline ) one. Anyone who has a VW 1600 or 1900 non-TDI diesel with th front
seal of the pump leaking the prime down can have the 12D for shipping. I resurrected a leak - down pump for three years before the seal got to where
it leaked fuel. At that point, it wants to go to Diesel Care and Performance in TN for rebuild.

--johnny
76 23' transmode norris

Braselton GA

--
"Sometimes I wonder what tomorrow's gonna bring when I think about my dirty life and times" --Warren Zevon

[Bob de Kruyff]

armandminnie wrote on Mon, 08 September 2014 20:24

> I always wonder why people don't just use the electric pump and remove the mechanical pump. Why not just use it all the time? If an electric pump
> fails it won't hurt the engine. If a mechanical pump fails (the right way) it can destroy the engine. Just wondering.

My experience has been that the mechanical pump is dramatically more reliable than an electrical pump system (including pump, wiring, relay, oil
pressure switch)
--
Bob de Kruyff
78 Eleganza
Chandler, AZ

[Armand Minnie]

Bob de Kruyff wrote on Tue, 09 September 2014 20:57

> My experience has been that the mechanical pump is dramatically more reliable than an electrical pump system (including pump, wiring, relay, oil
> pressure switch)

That is a good reason. I wonder if that is what everyone is actually thinking.

--
Armand Minnie
Marana, AZ
'76 Eleganza II TZE166V103202
http://www.minniebiz.com
http://www.gmcws.org

[Ken Burton]

As I was leaving Bean Station on a Sunday afternoon a few years ago, I came up one of our GMCers whose coach died climbing the hill up over the
mountain on 25E. His mechanical fuel pump quit. I hooked onto him with my Blazer and towed him the rest of the way up the hill (4 lane divided
highway) and then turned round and towed him back to BS. We were able to find a the correct replacement pump in stock at a NAPA auto parts store and
in a couple of hours total time he was on his way again. I guess they fail once every 30 years or so.

Try that with a Mr. Gasket or even a Carter P4070 on a Sunday afternoon.

If total electric is your thing, then I like Ken H's installation. He has 2 P4070's (one for each tank). If his electric pump fails then he can
switch tanks and pumps to keep going.

--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana

[Kerry Pinkerton]

Ken Burton wrote on Wed, 10 September 2014 05:11
> ...If total electric is your thing, then I like Ken H's installation. He has 2 P4070's (one for each tank). If his electric pump fails then he

> can switch tanks and pumps to keep going.

Because of vapor lock, this is what I did. The wife freaks if the coach stumbles like it did in Branson.

I used the Airtex pump (in stock at the local Advance) and installed them outside the frame with check valves. I did NOT drop the tanks because the
PO had had them dropped and new rubber ethanol rated gas line installed. I did keep the rubber lines as short as possible. In addition to the low
oil cutoff and the relays to power the pumps, I wanted an EMERGENCY fuel pump overide/prime switch. I can envision situations where I'm willing to
risk my engine a few more seconds with no oil pressure to get out of the middle of an intersection, off a railroad track, or similar. Starting is
instantaneous.

The old tank selector is not used but the switch now controls the relays to determine which pump runs. Check valves after the pumps to prevent back
pressure and gas filters in front of them, and another up by the engine, and the one in the Paterson carb. Probably over filtered.

Somehow I never took any photos of the installation ... I do have this shot of the cover I made to protect the pumps and lines from road trash. 1/8"
aluminum bolted through the frame and through the aluminum rocker extrusion. The two holes allow access to the pump wiring and was cut with a 2 1/2"
hole saw. The ends are open for ventilation

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/misc/p55854-fuel-pump-cover.html


Because I'm chicken and new to this setup. I did not remove the newer mechanical pump and put on a block off plate. Instead, I just made a loop from
rubber gas line and hooked the input to the output. If something goes nuts with my electric pumps on the way to Wisconsin, I can switch back to the
mechanical pretty easy.

Not saying it's right or the best it's just what I did.
--
Kerry Pinkerton

North Alabama, near Huntsville,

77 Eleganza II, "The Lady", 403CI, Manny Brakes, 1 ton, tranny also a 76 Eleganza to be re-bodied as an Art Deco car hauler

[gene Fisher]

On Wednesday, September 10, 2014, Kerry Pinkerton <Pinke...@mchsi.com>
wrote:

> Ken Burton wrote on Wed, 10 September 2014 05:11
> > ...If total electric is your thing, then I like Ken H's installation.
> He has 2 P4070's (one for each tank). If his electric pump fails then he
> > can switch tanks and pumps to keep going.
>
>

One problem with the mechanical pumps is
THEY SUCK
which aggravates the problem with the new fuels
Better to push.

Wonder why all modern systems are ALL electric pumps ???

Erf

--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html

[Bob de Kruyff]

""One problem with the mechanical pumps is
THEY SUCK
which aggravates the problem with the new fuels
Better to push.

Wonder why all modern systems are ALL electric pumps ???

Erf

I wonder how people feel when they have to spend $500 + to have the tank dropped and get a new pump every 5 to 8 years.

--
Bob de Kruyff
78 Eleganza
Chandler, AZ

[D C _Mac_ Macdonald]

Cost me 1 kilo buck to have the in-tank pump pulled and replaced in our 2002 Explorer! Luckily my towing policy paid for the tow to the shop!

~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
~~ ~ D C "Mac" Macdonald ~ ~~
~ ~ Amateur Radio - K2GKK ~ ~
~ ~ USAF and FAA, Retired ~ ~
~ ~ ~ Oklahoma City, OK ~ ~ ~
~~ ~ ~ "The Money Pit" ~ ~ ~~
~ ~ ~ ~ TZE166V101966 ~ ~ ~ ~
~ ~ ~ '76 ex-Palm Beach ~ ~ ~
~~ k2gkk + hotmail dot com ~~
~ www.gmcmhphotos.com/okclb ~
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
______________
*[ ]~~~[][ ][|\
*--OO--[]---O-*


> Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2014 16:20:06 -0600
> To: gmc...@temp.gmcnet.org
> From: NEXT...@gmail.COM

> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Carter 4070 electric fuel pump plumbing
>

[Bob Heller]

In my experience, the easier it is to replace the electric fuel pump the more unlikely it is to ever need replacement. Cars we have or have had in our
family:

1. 2005 Crown Vic. 120K miles. Still has original pump. Tank does not have to be dropped, just jack the back of the car up so the rear axle is fully
extended and there is enough room to do the replacement. Same way on every Ford Panther-platform vehicle (Grand Marquis, Town Car, Crown Vic).

2. 2004 Toyota Avalon. 180K miles. Still has the original fuel pump and fuel filter. Tank does not have to be dropped, access panel is under the back
seat. Very easy to get to, that's why it will probably never fail. It's also a Toyota, the most troublefree car we've ever owned. Freakin car never
breaks.

3. 1992 Lincoln Town Car. 240K miles when we sold it. Replaced the pump at about 150K miles because I had heard horror stories from friends and their
fuel pump troubles. I didn't think that said friends had Suburbans, Tahoes, and Camaros and I had a Ford. The 90's GM's were melting the wire that
powered the fuel pump, the replacement GM pumps had new-style connectors so the wire-burning would not happen again (in theory). I still wonder how
long that original Ford pump would have lasted. Access was pretty easy, with the rear axle at full droop there was enough room to do the replacement
without dropping the tank.

4. 199? Honda Accord. Daughter's first car. At about 150K the car wouldn't start sometimes, then after a few attempts it would start and run
perfectly. I guessed that the fuel pump was going bad and replaced it. I was wrong. It was the ecu power relay that was going bad (found this out when
the car wouldn't start a week later). The fuel pump access panel was under the back seat, took maybe a half hour to unnecessarily replace the pump.

5. 2001 Chevy Silverado. Now has about 150K on it and my son is on his third fuel pump. The tank cannot be dropped unless the truck's on a lift
because it's a tall (rather than wide) tank. Shop wanted something like $800. The first replacement a few years ago, he and a few buddies found that
the easiest way to get access to the pump was to remove the bed. Makes for a long Saturday project. Now he has a topper and a ladder rack on the truck
so for the last pump replacement a few months ago he sawzalled his own access panel in the bed (since he knew exactly where the pump was located), did
the replacement, and made a patch panel that he screwed in place. The next time he needs to replace the fuel pump in the Chevy he now has easy access.
That's why it will probably never fail.

6. My 1974 GMC motorhome. When I bought it in 2006 the previous owner used the Carter electric pump as a selling feature because he said the GMC
always started immediately and drove fine. Looking at the stack of receipts I found that this pump was installed in 1986, the mechanical pump was
disconnected and looped with a piece of rubber fuel hose, electric only fuel supply. Even though it worked fine I replaced the 20 year old Carter with
a new Carter just because it was 20 years old and we all know how unreliable old electric fuel pumps are! A couple of years later I added a second
Carter and a couple of check valves so I now have one pump per tank. Never had a failure yet.

Also, I've never seen a mechanical fuel pump put out the 50-or-so PSI that injection requires. I wonder how long a mechanical fuel pump would last if
it had to pump at that pressure. I just can't see a rubber diaphragm lasting very long at 50 PSI. I'm sure it could be done somehow, but at what cost?
What did the GM fuelies of the late 50's-early 60's use for a fuel pump? I know they weren't really reliable and many Rochester injections were
swapped out for a carb, was it the injection that was unreliable or did they possibly have fuel supply issues?


Executive Summary: Not all electric fuel pumps are unreliable and not all vehicles require major disassembly to get to the fuel pump.









--
Bob Heller
1974 X-Canyonlands 26ft
Original 455, 134k miles
Winter Springs FL

[Carl Stouffer]

Mr ERFisher wrote on Wed, 10 September 2014 05:37

> Wonder why all modern systems are ALL electric pumps ???
>
> Erf

I suspect it is because of the higher pressures involved with electronic fuel injection. It's probably much easier to achieve those pressures with an
electric pump than to design and build a high pressure mechanical pump. Think about how expensive it is to replace a fuel injection pump on a diesel
for instance.
--
Carl Stouffer
'75 ex Palm Beach
Tucson, AZ.

[Bob de Kruyff]

""In my experience, the easier it is to replace the electric fuel pump the more unlikely it is to ever need replacement. Cars we have or have had in
our family:""

Looks like you have had lots of pump replacements in your family:)Certainly fuel injection has its own requirements. What I am trying to say is that
if you have a carburetor, the most reliable pump is the original mechanical pump by far. The electric pump system usually includes the pump itself,
the relay, the oil pressure switch, the dash switch or control, and a fuse somewere. When you calculate the reliability of each component and
connection, the electric system has no reasonable chance of competing with a mechanical system. Its one reason the presidential limo has a carburetor
and a mechanical pump

--
Bob de Kruyff
78 Eleganza
Chandler, AZ

[Ken Burton]

I got think about what you said on mechanical pump reliability. In my life I have only replaced or help replace 2 defective mechanical pumps. Both
were on vehicles that were not mine. (A 1954 Ford and helping a GMCer at BS.) I also did replace the mechanical pump on my motorhome because it was
free at the time to me. I was replacing just about every thing else on the engine after an engine fire.

Looking at electric pumps, I have had a reliability poor record. I have replaced 8 on vehicles that I own, 4 on other peoples vehicles. My daughter
has an additional 3 she replaced and has it down to a 2.5 hour job including dropping and reinstalling the tank on her Blazer. I just remembered two
more electric boost pumps that went out on the GMC. I carry a spare electric pump in my Blazer, Laurie's Jimmy, and my Colorado. Those are the only
spares I carry other int hose vehicles than a serpentine belt and a few fuses. These numbers also do not include the fuel regulators (usually
located inside the intake plenum) that at I have replaced that are part of the electric fuel pump system.

Let's see, that is 3 mechanical pumps in 30 years vs. 16 electric pumps in 24 years that I have been associated with replacing. Also throw in a 3
more regulators on the electric pump side.

--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana

[Rob Mueller]

Gene,

EFI!

Regards,
Rob M.
The Pedantic Mechanic
USAussie - Downunder
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428

-----Original Message-----

From: gene Fisher

One problem with the mechanical pumps is THEY SUCK which aggravates the problem with the new fuels Better to push.

Wonder why all modern systems are ALL electric pumps ???

Erf

[gene Fisher]

On Wed, Sep 10, 2014 at 10:38 PM, Rob Mueller <robmu...@iinet.net.au>
wrote:

> Gene,
>
> EFI!
>

​yep
and
- alcohol fuel
- one ton front ends
- disk brakes

all directions, not choices
erf
-
​ ​

--

Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html

[Ken Burton]

roy1 wrote on Thu, 11 September 2014 00:45
> Were any of them carter 4070's ? My wife's 32 ford had a 4070 in it for more then 30 years and it was an every day driver. The electric pumps
> that I had problems with were diafram pumps rather then gear drive except for a holly pump.



The mechanical pumps were all diaphragm. One Carter 4070 on the motor home the other was One of those things Jim B. is selling. These were no big
deal since I had a mechanical pump to back them up. I do not think it was a diaphragm. That was the first one installed on my motorhome and
installed by a PO. Every other electric pump was an in tank OEM pump mostly Ford and GM. Those are the ones that I carry a spare for in each car. I
understand these fail most often when you let the tank get too low. They use the tank fuel for cooling. They are rotary and lock up. I have been
successful temporarily by wacking the bottom of the tank to get them started again. Once you get them started do not turnoff the car until you get to
the place where you are going to change them. Sometime you can wack them again and sometimes not.

I just remembered a few more. They were all electrical interrupter types used on aircraft just like the Onan ones. I have never replaced a
mechanical one on an airplane. Usually the airplane electric interrupter type we take them apart, and just clean them thoroughly. Then they are
usually good to go again. Again they are backed up by a mechanical pump so when they fail it is no big deal. The mechanical type is actually the
main pump and the electric is the back one.

The pre-startup check list has you turn on the electric pump and read the fuel pressure. Then turn it off, start the engine, and read the fuel
pressure from the mechanical one. On on initial taxi and run-up prior to take off, you do it on mechanical only. Just prior to take off you turn on
the electric one again and take off on both. Once you are at a safe altitude (usually cruise altitude), you turn off the electric and leave the
electric off until starting to land. You do not want an engine failure on either take off or landing.

I have had three minor ones. One carb icing at about 3000, One dry tank on landing, and one vapor lock at 4000 feet. You get very busy, very quickly
trying to figure out and recover from the failure.

--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana

[Ken Burton]

Actually the one that got my attention the most was when I ran a tank dry on final at about 300 feet after dark. There were trees all around the
strip so going straight ahead and landing short was not an option. I headed for a corn field and went through (in my head) very quickly my engine
failure check list. Mixture full rich, electric fuel pump on, switch tanks, verify magneto on both, and line up with the corn rows for landing. At
about 50 feet the engine restarted and I went back to the unlighted airstrip for a normal landing.

[A.]

Ken Burton wrote on Thu, 11 September 2014 12:07

> Actually the one that got my attention the most was when I ran a tank dry on final at about 300 feet after dark. There were trees all around the
> strip so going straight ahead and landing short was not an option. I headed for a corn field and went through (in my head) very quickly my engine
> failure check list. Mixture full rich, electric fuel pump on, switch tanks, verify magneto on both, and line up with the corn rows for landing. At
> about 50 feet the engine restarted and I went back to the unlighted airstrip for a normal landing.

There was a part of a Bill Cosby routine where he talks about mom telling you to put on clean underwear in case you get in an accident. He said it
doesn't matter. When you see the disaster developing, first you say it, then you do it. And that's it for the clean underwear.
--
'73 23' Sequoia For Sale
'73 23' CanyonLands For Sale
Upper Alabama
Perpetually annoyed that "political correctness" and Secular Humanism control every aspect of American life