[GMCnet] million mile- front wheel bearings
Mr.erf ERFisher
Death, Taxes, and replacing the front wheel bearings.
Over the years, the GMC community has come up with 2 ways to stop the front
bearing replacement --- *forever*.
*One way* is to modify your front knuckles to have a zerk fitting to grease
the bearings, without removing them.
read the links here
http://gmcmotorhome.info/front.html#ZERK
When you have your bearings serviced, *do not do it without modifying or
replacing your knuckles*. All of our Vendors can do this...., and you can
do it your self.
Read here (page 109-3) as Emery describes how to do it your self, and how
the Timken Bearing Rep. says our bearings should last 1 million miles.
http://www.gmcmi.com/mem-bers/Newsletters/109.pdf
*the second way* to never replace your bearings again ,is to install the
Hubler 1 ton truck bearings. This is not easy, so read the links.
Read the articles here:
http://gmcmotorhome.info/front.html#hubler
JMHO - Every GMC owner has to get this done and forget the GMC front
bearing replacement issue. We are going to run out of parts anyway.
good luck
gene
--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
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Terry Skinner
don't throw away the old/broken parts. If any get rare someone comes
up with a way to fix the old ones. Look at what a business the two
Jims have created............Terry
--
Terry Skinner
253-686-2624
Roy. Washington
'76 GMC
Jack Christensen
What about using Chuck Aulgur's front bearing greaser?
http://www.appliedgmc.com/prod.itml/icOid/885
Is this an acceptable alternative to drilling the knuckle and all the related work?
--
Jack Christensen - K6ROW,
'76 Glenbrook/Clasco, '65 Clark Cortez,
Sebastopol, CA
Dan Gregg
Gene, you are correct. We have done #1. Now its time for #2. I think the Hubler is the way to go for Teri and me, based on our driving habits and skill level.
Dan
--
Dan & Teri Gregg
http://danandteri.blogspot.com/
Dan Gregg
One of my reasons for the above: I was able to get a spare everything, including built axles, for the front end except knuckles and hubs. My thoughts were to have the complete front end ready to put in should I or someone else need it. Boxed and ready for shipment. Too heavy to carry around. I think I could do it myself. I know I can maintain the Hubler myself. I am not buying it for the improved drivability as our's really can not drive any better than it does now. This just makes the most sense for me. I love the "modernized" GMC.
Dan
--
Dan & Teri Gregg
http://danandteri.blogspot.com/
Charles Wood
...
Read here (page 109-3) as Emery describes how to do it your self, and how the Timken Bearing Rep. says our bearings should last 1 million miles.
http://www.gmcmi.com/mem-bers/Newsletters/109.pdf
Some of us aint members...
--
CBWood
77 Kingslay
MWC OK
Rob Mueller
That's easy to fix - Join! ;-)
Regards,
Rob M.
USAussie - Downunder
Emery Stora
On Dec 14, 2010, at 12:36 PM, Charles Wood wrote:
>
>
> ...
> Read here (page 109-3) as Emery describes how to do it your self, and how the Timken Bearing Rep. says our bearings should last 1 million miles.
>
> http://www.gmcmi.com/mem-bers/Newsletters/109.pdf
>
> --
> CBWood
Some additional info about Timken Bearings can be found here:
http://www.gmcws.org/techcenter/01-06tc33.html
Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Santa Fe, NM
Charles Wood
Thankx Em...
raised another question tho..
any thing more on this? Dont remember reading about it before.
Course, I dont remember where I was going to either.....
.....Darren Paget's wheel stabilizers
--
CBWood
77 Kingslay
MWC OK
Emery Stora
On Dec 14, 2010, at 2:08 PM, Charles Wood wrote:
>
>
> Thankx Em...
>
> raised another question tho..
> any thing more on this? Dont remember reading about it before.
> Course, I dont remember where I was going to either.....
>
> .....Darren Paget's wheel stabilizers
> --
> CBWood
> 77 Kingslay
> MWC OK
I don't recall hearing anything more about it. I don't think that he ever went into production before he closed his company.
Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Santa Fe, NM
Rob Mueller
For those of us "newbies" could you or one of the other "old timers" provide
some info on Darren's Wheel Stabilizers?
Thanks,
Rob M.
USAussie - Downunder
-----Original Message-----
From: gmclist...@temp.gmcnet.org
[mailto:gmclist...@temp.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Emery Stora
Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 2010 9:21 AM
To: gmc...@temp.gmcnet.org
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] million mile- front wheel bearings
Ken Henderson
remember anything about "wheel stabilizers". CRS being what it is, I just
searched http://groups.google.com/group/gmcnet-archive too. It doesn't
remember the term either.
I wish someone would enlighten us.
Ken H.
On Tue, Dec 14, 2010 at 8:33 PM, Rob Mueller <robmu...@iinet.net.au>wrote:
> Emery,
>
> For those of us "newbies" could you or one of the other "old timers"
> provide
> some info on Darren's Wheel Stabilizers?
>
> Thanks,
> Rob M.
> USAussie - Downunder
>
>
Nelson Wright
The last thing that I recall that Darren was working on had to do with
a band that is installed inside the tire around the wheel to keep the
tire on the rim in the event of a tire failure. Can't remember what
they are called but they were a safety item for truck and bus
application.
Nelson Wright
Orlando FL
78 Royale rear bath
Billy Massey
I can help with that. This link will get you in the saddle:
http://www.gmcmi.com/welcome.html
Support those who support you ... GMC Motorhome International Club
bdub
Mike Miller
Nelson Wright wrote on Tue, 14 December 2010 18:07
> ... a band that is installed inside the tire around the wheel to keep the
> tire on the rim in the event of a tire failure. Can't remember what
> they are called but they were a safety item for truck and bus
> application.
Sounds like something for the applications using the 15 degree bead seat tires/wheels. These tires have been known to come off of the rim after loosing air pressure.
Like most cars and light trucks, we use 5 degree seats. The tires are MUCH less likely to come off of the rim.
Only something to worry about if you have scrounged up some (very) old rims...
--
Mike Miller
#01 - `73 26' X Painted D. "The Spare"
#02 - `78 23' Birchaven Rear Bath "The User"
#03 - `77 23' Birchaven Side Bath "The Keeper"
Hillsboro, OR
Kingsley Coach
How does Chuck Aulgur's front bearing greaser work?
Tks
Mike in NS
--
Michael Beaton
1977 Kingsley 26-11
1977 Eleganza II 26-3
Antigonish, NS
Mike Miller
Kingsley Coach wrote on Wed, 15 December 2010 17:03
> How does Chuck Aulgur's front bearing greaser work?
The general idea:
Look at this picture:
<http://www.appliedgmc.com/prod.itml/icOid/885>
The round silver item is the greaser. You loosen the axle bolt and slide the CV joint inboard leaving a gap on the back side of the knuckle. Take the greaser apart and put the two halves together between the cv joint and the knuckle.
The tool will allow you to push grease into the bearings.
BUT... before you try this... You will need to follow the specific instructions from someone who has actually SEEN the tool... :twisted:
My personal thoughts are:
1.) If you have you knuckles apart, you should make sure the bearings and surfaces are very good -- then drill the knuckles for a zerk. Keep them greased and they should last "almost" forever.
2.) If you are doing a major front end rebuild, replace with a Hubler front end.
3.) If you do not have 1. or 2. on your list, use Chuck's tool. Pulling the bearings out is VERY hard on parts.
Dan Gregg
2.) If you are doing a major front end rebuild, replace with a Hubler front end.
[/quote]
Mike, that is my thinking. I hope to have the GMC ready for another 20 years of enjoyment.
Dan
--
Dan & Teri Gregg
http://danandteri.blogspot.com/
fred veenschoten
mike miller wrote on Wed, 15 December 2010 20:40
> Kingsley Coach wrote on Wed, 15 December 2010 17:03
> > How does Chuck Aulgur's front bearing greaser work?
>
>
> The general idea:
>
> Look at this picture:
> <http://www.appliedgmc.com/prod.itml/icOid/885>
>
> The round silver item is the greaser. You loosen the axle bolt and slide the CV joint inboard leaving a gap on the back side of the knuckle. Take the greaser apart and put the two halves together between the cv joint and the knuckle.
>
> The tool will allow you to push grease into the bearings.
>
> BUT... before you try this... You will need to follow the specific instructions from someone who has actually SEEN the tool... :twisted:
>
> My personal thoughts are:
>
> 1.) If you have you knuckles apart, you should make sure the bearings and surfaces are very good -- then drill the knuckles for a zerk. Keep them greased and they should last "almost" forever.
>
> 2.) If you are doing a major front end rebuild, replace with a Hubler front end.
>
> 3.) If you do not have 1. or 2. on your list, use Chuck's tool. Pulling the bearings out is VERY hard on parts.
does that tool get grease to the outer bearing? looks like the zerk would do a better job.
--
Fred V
'77 Royale RB 455
P'cola, Fl
Charles Boyd
fred v wrote on Thu, 16 December 2010 09:09
> mike miller wrote on Wed, 15 December 2010 20:40
> > Kingsley Coach wrote on Wed, 15 December 2010 17:03
> > > How does Chuck Aulgur's front bearing greaser work?
> >
> >
> > The general idea:
> >
> > Look at this picture:
> > <http://www.appliedgmc.com/prod.itml/icOid/885>
> >
> > The round silver item is the greaser. You loosen the axle bolt and slide the CV joint inboard leaving a gap on the back side of the knuckle. Take the greaser apart and put the two halves together between the cv joint and the knuckle.
> >
> > The tool will allow you to push grease into the bearings.
> >
> > BUT... before you try this... You will need to follow the specific instructions from someone who has actually SEEN the tool... :twisted:
> >
> > My personal thoughts are:
> >
> > 1.) If you have you knuckles apart, you should make sure the bearings and surfaces are very good -- then drill the knuckles for a zerk. Keep them greased and they should last "almost" forever.
> >
> > 2.) If you are doing a major front end rebuild, replace with a Hubler front end.
> >
> > 3.) If you do not have 1. or 2. on your list, use Chuck's tool. Pulling the bearings out is VERY hard on parts.
>
> does that tool get grease to the outer bearing? looks like the zerk would do a better job.
Good morning Fred: when I was bench checking my zerks before installing I did notice that the grease was coming out of both bearings about the same time but was more closest to the zerk. I felt more comfortable rotating the hub as I greased.
--
C. Boyd
76 Crestmont by Midas
East Tennessee
Randy
Wouldn't squeezing more grease into a bearing be like draining out a little engine oil from the crankcase and replacing it with a quart of fresh stuff and never changing the filter?
I would think there must be a benefit to thoroughly cleaning the bearing and repacking with fresh clean grease periodically. No matter how good your grease is, there's going to be some metal worn from the bearings and that metal has to go somewhere.
--
Randy
1973 26' Painted Desert
Ahwatukee (Phoenix) AZ
Rob Mueller
Sealed bearings can and do operate for YEARS without putting fresh grease
into them.
When you re-grease the front wheel bearings through the Zerk fitting you
remove the large nut that keeps the CV joint in the wheel and push it
inwards until the seal land on the inside is no longer in contact with the
seal (if you don't do this you risk blowing the seal out). You then squeeze
new grease into the zerk which is located between the inner and outer wheel
bearings. As you pump fresh grease in the "old" grease flows out the gap
between the seal land and seal carrying with it contamination.
If you find "worn metal" in the bearings they are shot!
Regards,
Rob M.
USAussie
-----Original Message-----
From: gmclist...@temp.gmcnet.org
[mailto:gmclist...@temp.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Randy
Sent: Friday, December 17, 2010 4:35 PM
To: gmc...@temp.gmcnet.org
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] million mile- front wheel bearings
Matt Colie
Luvn737s wrote on Fri, 17 December 2010 00:34
> Wouldn't squeezing more grease into a bearing be like draining out a little engine oil from the crankcase and replacing it with a quart of fresh stuff and never changing the filter?
>
> I would think there must be a benefit to thoroughly cleaning the bearing and repacking with fresh clean grease periodically. No matter how good your grease is, there's going to be some metal worn from the bearings and that metal has to go somewhere.
Randy,
Your concern is well placed, but we have a situation here where the removal of the bearings for service is very likely to cause more damage to the bearings than any wear is probably going to do.
Your crankcase analogy is also a tad flawed. Engine oil dies from contamination largely with combustion by-products (these can cause the components to oxidize) and in only some cases is heat an issue (like someone's twin turbo Cadillac 540 climbing Baker Grade).
Conventional grease can last many years - usually until it hardens. This is the lure of new synthetic greases that will not age harden or oxidize easily. I have greased parts in regular service (at least as regular as the coach) that are 2~3 decades from the most recent lubrication service.
Since the time our coaches were built there have been three huge changes:
The life of a conventional #2NLGI grease has been remarkably improved,
Molybdenum Disulfide (MoS2) has become a common additive, and lastly,
the synthetic greases now commonly available that have much longer life than the conventional.
I am not at all sure what I am going to do, but not high on my list is pulling the hubs apart just to clean and relube.
Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie
'73 Glacier 23 Chaumiere (say show-me-air)
SE Michigan - DTW 3.2/4R
fred veenschoten
Robert Mueller wrote on Thu, 16 December 2010 23:59
> Randy,
>
> Sealed bearings can and do operate for YEARS without putting fresh grease
> into them.
>
> When you re-grease the front wheel bearings through the Zerk fitting you
> remove the large nut that keeps the CV joint in the wheel and push it
> inwards until the seal land on the inside is no longer in contact with the
> seal (if you don't do this you risk blowing the seal out). You then squeeze
> new grease into the zerk which is located between the inner and outer wheel
> bearings. As you pump fresh grease in the "old" grease flows out the gap
> between the seal land and seal carrying with it contamination.
>
> If you find "worn metal" in the bearings they are shot!
>
> Regards,
> Rob M.
> USAussie
that would be true for the inner bearing but not for the outer bearing.
along that line a buddy here pumped grease into his zerk and it came out on the outer side between the knuckle and the brake disk. would that indicate a failed outer seal?
--
Fred V
'77 Royale RB 455
P'cola, Fl
Emery Stora
On Dec 17, 2010, at 10:18 AM, fred veenschoten wrote:
>
> that would be true for the inner bearing but not for the outer bearing.
> along that line a buddy here pumped grease into his zerk and it came out on the outer side between the knuckle and the brake disk. would that indicate a failed outer seal?
>
> --
> Fred V
> '77 Royale RB 455
> P'cola, Fl
>
Did he follow the directions and loosen the axle nut first and push the axle back a little to make an opening by the rear seal? If he did then I don;t see how he could get enough pressure to get past the front seal unless the front seal was really bad.
Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Santa Fe, NM
fred veenschoten
emerystora wrote on Fri, 17 December 2010 11:21
he did remove the nut and slide the axle in but i'll talk to him again about what happened.
--
Fred V
'77 Royale RB 455
P'cola, Fl