Let's see how the install is
And
And
Are they still available
I will stick with the JC4
But like options
Erf
--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
Be sure to use a relay. I have the wiring diagram at home but we are on a trip and won't be home until Sunday.
I recall that one lead goes to a constant battery and the other goes to an ignition circuit. You have to have an external pressure regulator as one is not built into the pump.
Emery Stora
Even at 5000 ft elevation I could get 20" of vacuum.
Emery Stora
Clearly more complex than this
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/vacuum-pumps-new-models/p24284-jc4-pump1.html
Which is made for this application and better, in the long run
Erf
On Wednesday, July 16, 2014, Emery Stora <emery...@mac.com> wrote:
> Rather than rely on a faulty memory I just looked at mine.
> Tha wire from a source that is hot with the key on goes to the pressure
> switch. From the pressure switch it goes to the relay coil. The other side
> of the coil goes to ground. The lead from the battery (hot all the time)
> goes to one relay contact. The other relay contact goes to the red lead of
> the pump. The other pump lead (brown) goes to ground.
>
> Even at 5000 ft elevation I could get 20" of vacuum.
> Emery Stora
>
> > On Jul 16, 2014, at 1:07 PM, John Wright <powe...@chartermi.net
> <javascript:;>> wrote:
> >
> > Powered it up, work very well, has one red and one brown wire. Red is
> power and brown is ground. Will build the same setup I used for the old GM
> vacuum pumps that we could get back around 1999. I used a Hobbs Vacuum
> Switch Part#77343 4 NC which means no vacuum then the switch and open at
> your set point. As Emery says you should always used a relay as you could
> damage the switch with high starting current load.
> >
> > <
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/vacuum-pump-vacuum-switch/p55250-vacuum-pressure-switch.html
> >
> > and
> > http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/vacuum-pump-vacuum-switch/p1615.html
> >
> >
> > J.R. Wright
> > GMC Great Laker MHC
> > Newsletter Editor/Publisher
> > GMC Eastern States
> > GMCMHI
> > 78 GMC Buskirk 30’ Stretch
> > 75 GMC Avion (Under Reconstruction)
> > Michigan
> >
> >> On Jul 16, 2014, at 12:35 PM, Bill Wevers <gmc...@att.net
> <javascript:;>> wrote:
> >>
> >> I bought one.
> >> Couldn't pass up a good deal.
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> GMCnet mailing list
> >> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> >> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
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>
--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
or
like this
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/vacuum-pumps-new-models/p24284-jc4-pump1.html
make your choice
On Tue, Jul 22, 2014 at 10:49 AM, Rob Mueller <robmu...@iinet.net.au>
wrote:
> Bob,
--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
Not trying to steal your thunder but maybe help: Looks like mine will have
to mount beneath the R. Front battery tray on the side of the frame rail.
A 5"X5"X1/8" angle bracket 7" long will bolt to the side of the frame.
Four 3/8"X1" bolts vertically through the horizontal flange will receive
3" sections of 3/8" ID fuel hose. The pump will sit on those isolators.
You'll find that the pump's mounting studs are 3-3/4" apart on parallel
lines 2-3/4" apart; but, they're offset by 3/16" so that there are no 3
square.
To protect the pump and, especially, its air outlet from the elements and
the possible leakage from the batteries above it, I've found a plastic
cover: A trimmed up 1 gallon plastic gas can. It'll fit over the top of
the pump and extend most of the way down the sides. It can't come off
after the bracket with the pump is bolted to the frame.
HTH,
Ken H.
On Tue, Jul 22, 2014 at 1:49 PM, Rob Mueller <robmu...@iinet.net.au>
wrote:
> Bob,
>
> Standby, I have parts on order that will allow me to put together a
> comprehensive installation document which will cover:
>
> 1) How to make a mounting bracket
> 2) Where to get a vacuum switch
> 3) Where to locate the pump
> 4) How to plumb it into the system
> 5) How to wire it
>
>
Now that you have already stolen the thunder, let me steal a little more:) Since I want it in this weekend, I'm making a mounting bracket with four
tubes that will accept the fuel line into which the mounting studs will sit. The bracket will have a circular hole to clear the motor. I've ordered
the adjustable vacuum switch off Ebay--it is designed to unlock transmission torque convertors on non electronic vehicles.
Sorry Rob but I was too impatient to wait.
--
Bob de Kruyff
78 Eleganza
Chandler, AZ
No worries, MATES!
I'm using vibration isolators with 6mm x 1 studs on them from Mc Master Carr as I figger by using them I can mount the pump any way I want to "right side up / up side down / sideways / catawampus."
It would be helpful if you guys would take photographs of your installations so people can make a choice where to put it.
Also I would appreciate knowing what you used for the vacuum switch.
Regards,
Rob M.
The Pedantic Mechanic
USAussie - Downunder
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob de Kruyff
Ken Henderson wrote on Wed, 23 July 2014 09:39
> Rob,
>
> Not trying to steal your thunder but maybe help: Looks like mine will have
> to mount beneath the R. Front battery tray on the side of the frame rail.
> A 5"X5"X1/8" angle bracket 7" long will bolt to the side of the frame.
> Four 3/8"X1" bolts vertically through the horizontal flange will receive
> 3" sections of 3/8" ID fuel hose. The pump will sit on those isolators.
> You'll find that the pump's mounting studs are 3-3/4" apart on parallel
> lines 2-3/4" apart; but, they're offset by 3/16" so that there are no 3
> square.
>
> To protect the pump and, especially, its air outlet from the elements and
> the possible leakage from the batteries above it, I've found a plastic
> cover: A trimmed up 1 gallon plastic gas can. It'll fit over the top of
> the pump and extend most of the way down the sides. It can't come off
> after the bracket with the pump is bolted to the frame.
>
> HTH,
>
> Ken H.
>
Personally, I've already tested the pump to 23" in Hg. If I can get it to
25 in Hg, that's where I plan to run. Tuesday will probably be when I
get that installed and tested.
Ken H.
On Sun, Jul 27, 2014 at 9:42 PM, A. <mar...@netzero.com> wrote:
> Kerry Pinkerton wrote on Sun, 27 July 2014 19:25
> > Nice installation Bob. Talked to Dave Lenzi yesterday. He runs his at
> 21" with no reservoir and told me that at that vacuum, I'd notice a marked
> > improvement in braking.
> >
> > He mounted his up high on the firewall where the horns are and moved the
> horns to the bottom of his pump mount.
> >
> > We were talking about some other things and he told me he had measured
> some of the JD4 pumps and some were only capable of 10 inches of vacuum.
> > Others got to 15.
> So is it implied that the electric pump will be your primary source of
> vacuum for the booster and the engine vacuum will be your backup?
> --
> '
>
>
>
>
> I'm still thinking about reservoirs.
i have never been in favor of brake system, reservoirs.
you are messing with a primary safety system, where there is an advantage
to reducing the number of components, connections, with their MTBF numbers.
if you read about a current , engineered, design, in current , use, and
manufacture
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/4896/Vacuum_pump.pdf
you will see a design , for this application, with one component, the
pump(available new),
with no extra hoses, relays, sensors, pvc tanks, etc.
this design, is available for the gmc and was used by Jerry
work.
ENGINEERING - FOREVER :>)
jwid
erf
> It seems to me that it's kind of like an air compressor with a big tank.
> Even though the compressor would fill
> up a small tank and shut off very quick, it will have to run a while to
> fill a larger tank. Same principal in reverse with a vacuum pump. If you
> somehow depleted the storage tank, it would take longer to pull the same
> vacuum in the booster AND the tank than just the booster....I think.... I'm
> still ruminating on this. If the pump will pull to 20 inches in a couple
> seconds from nothing, I'm not sure that the tank is an advantage...I
> think....maybe.....
> --
> Kerry Pinkerton
>
> North Alabama, near Huntsville,
>
> 77 Eleganza II, "The Lady", 403CI, Manny Brakes, 1 ton, tranny also a 76
> Eleganza to be re-bodied as an Art Deco car hauler
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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>
--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
At my house approx. 5200 ft elevation I was able to set it at 21". However when I went up to the Rocky Mountain National Park last weekend I found that the pump wanted to run full time when I got up to 8000 ft elevation. I had to adjust it down to 19" to shut off the pump. If I had gone to the top visitor center at 12000 feet (which I did with the toad) I am sure that I would have had to set it even lower to keep it from running full time.
So, for the present I am leaving it at 19".
Dave Lenzi had also told me that I would have much better braking with this pump. I totally agree with him. The higher vacuum on the booster gives much better brakes.
Emery Stora
I made my first attempt at setting the Super Vacuum Pump today. I didn't
get to complete the process so perhaps should keep my thoughts to myself
for now. But I observed a peculiarity which I wish others would examine:
With the switch set for On=23 in-Hg Off=21 in-Hg (yep, it has that little
hysteresis), with a well sealed system, the pump operates as one would
expect. BUT, when I introduced a serious leak into the system (bled it
rapidly to below about 15 psi) the switch closed (as indicated by the
attached indicator light) but the pump did NOT come on. Only after a delay
of up to 15 seconds at 0 in-Hg would the pump come back on. Even more
peculiarly, it would then shut off at about 15 in-Hg, though the indicator
was still on. Repeated "rapid decompressions" resulted in the same
strange behavior. But if the leak was eliminated, that is, no rapid
decompression was allowed, the pump would again respond to the 23/21 in-Hg
commands of the switch. It acts as if there's an internal self-protection
switch that's governed by vacuum change rate. That makes no sense to me in
a vehicle safety device, but that's the impression it gives.
I have not yet had a chance to eliminate all other possibilities, such as a
thermal CB opening, but I don't believe that's likely. Some of you who're
set up for testing, please give this scenario a try.
Ken H.
Americus, GA
'76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI & EBL,
Manny Brakes & 1-Ton, etc., etc.
www.gmcwipersetc.com
--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html