[GMCnet] A6 ac compressor replacement

[Wayne Lawrence]

I noticed that most of the dash ac compressor replacements Sanden, 4 seasons ect. have a lower displacement
than the oem a6. Any one who has used one of the replacements which one did you use and do you notice any
loss of cold air? (this is if you had a working unit to compare it to)
--
Wayne Lawrence
76 Birchaven
Bellflower CA
w.law...@verizon.net

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[Jim Kanomata]

We have supplied to several people that are running duel A/C units off or
Sanden unit.
Sanden kit we supply come with mounting to fit the GMC MH slightly
different than the Toronado.
You can see it on our sight under Heating/Cooling

On Fri, Jun 23, 2017 at 8:06 PM, Wayne Lawrence <w.law...@verizon.net>
wrote:

--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
ji...@appliedairfilters.com
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502

[Jim Kanomata]

<http://www.appliedgmc.com/products/full/1658.jpg>
SANDEN 508 CONVERSION KIT
Price: $569.95
KIT INCLUDES SANDEN 508 COMPRESSOR --- 2 NEW HOSE'S AND A NEW MOUNTING BRAC

> 1-800-752-7502 <(800)%20752-7502>

[Wayne Lawrence]

Hay Jim,
I was on your website earlier and also noticed the s6 replacement for our a6. Is either one (s6 or sanden)better than the other?

O by the way I still love the 370. Thank you for that.

[Jim Kanomata]

Wayne, That Aluminum S6 turned out to be a typical Communist Chinese
Crapola.
We sold lot of Vintage Air units with the Sanden compressors and realized
most had run lot of miles on them with no problems.
That's when we went with Sanden and have not had one come back in the 3
years. Most are made in Japan where they make private labels for
Lexus,Acura and others.
We are happy to see you are enjoying the 3.70 Final Drive unit.
When you get a chance try advancing the ignition timing 1-2 degrees as it
will make lot of difference.

On Sat, Jun 24, 2017 at 4:05 PM, Wayne Lawrence <w.law...@verizon.net>
wrote:

--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
ji...@appliedairfilters.com
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502

[Keith V]

I have Jims Sanden replacement, it works great. I have an AUX AC under the couch and I can cool the whole coach nicely.

The only issue is the bolts on the pulley, you HAVE to be careful that they don't hit your hoses when the motor torques over under load as it makes a great saw and will cut you hose. Ask me how I know!


My A6 never worked, so I can't compare

________________________________
From: Gmclist <gmclist...@list.gmcnet.org> on behalf of Jim Kanomata <jimka...@gmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 24, 2017 6:18:47 PM
To: gmc...@list.gmcnet.org
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] A6 ac compressor replacement

[Wayne Lawrence]

A BIG THANK YOU to all reply's.

Wayne

[Emery Stora]

"That Aluminum S6 turned out to be a typical Communist Chinese
Crapola."

Jim
You didn't tell me that when I bought one from you. So far it's still working.
I hope I don't have to remind you of what you said soon.

Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Frederick, CO

> On Jun 26, 2017, at 8:36 AM, Keith V <my4...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> That Aluminum S6 turned out to be a typical Communist Chinese
> Crapola.

[amansfield1104--- via Gmclist]

I have Jim K’s conversion. Is there a trick to installing the compressor. I the brackets installed. I had to cut clearance for the fuel line but other than that it went on without to much trouble.

Art

[amansfield1104--- via Gmclist]

Never mine I took off the valve cover and had no problem putting the compressor in. Hope this is worth it. Once i get it together I will cut some holes in the front of the box and run two tubes up to provide some cooling. One will be run to the seat by the table to see if it will cool a little back there for my wife. Hope that helps cool down the RV a little where she sits.

Art

[Ken Henderson via Gmclist]

Art,

I don't quite understand your post, but what I think you're proposing to do
is to add ductwork from the front of the HVAC box, through the firewall to
provide more airflow into the cockpit. That MAY help with cooling -- quite
a few people have done something similar. BUT, the fairly recent
experience of a friend prompts me to issue a caution: Their engine battery
"exploded", causing a sudden burst of flame. The flame should have
followed the firewall up to the base of the windshield and perhaps been
extinguished for lack of oxygen. Or, at worst, burned through to the
outside of the windshield. Unfortunately, a PO had added a plastic duct
firewall above the passenger's feet. That duct was immediately burned
through, allowing the flame to penetrate the firewall, and follow the
cockpit side of it up behind the dashboard, along the inside of the
windshield, over the passenger's head, etc., all the way to the back of the
coach. Essentially everything above the beltline was burned or badly smoke
damaged. Little damage below the beltline.

Without that ductwork through the firewall, the coach might well have still
been totalled -- but with little or no interior damage.

Just something to think about. I know if I were tempted as you are, I'd
use very fire resistant materials (my custom HVAC box is made of 12 gauge
aluminum).

Ken H.
Americus, GA
'76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI & EBL,
Manny Brakes & 1-Ton, Troy-Bilt APU, etc., etc., etc.
www.gmcwipersetc.com

On Thu, Aug 22, 2019 at 10:33 AM amansfield1104--- via Gmclist <

[Jim Kanomata via Gmclist]

Not sure of the posting, however our Sanden compressor bracket does not
require it to be removed should the valve cover need be removed. Nice
benefit.

[Todd Sullivan via Gmclist]

FWIW I would make sure the genny works and run the roof ac to keep the
coach cooler in really hot conditions before I would embark on a project as
ambitious as building and running all that ductwork.

Sully
Bellevue wa

[amansfield1104--- via Gmclist]

Thanks Ken. Something to think about. I need to get some air back where the table is. I guess I’ll see if I can get some metal tubing to run thru the firewall. I have the fire extinguisher set up which will help some but I removed the fender liners to see if that helps with vapor lock problems I been having.

Art

[1104agm via Gmclist]

Todd I would if I thought I had a chance to make it work. It’s hard to fix when it run fine at home. I ran it for 4 hours the last time before i left for a trip. It quit within 30 minutes when on the road. I do not know what to do. I changed the coil, I changed the condenser, replaced all the diode. I plan to replace the oil sensor and change the oil. Then insulate the fuel line that runs under the generator.

Art

[Adolph Santorine via Gmclist]

Art

Why don’t you run the genset and the roof air?

Dolph Santorine

DE AD0LF

Wheeling, West Virginia

1977 ex-Palm Beach TZE167V100820
Howell EFI/EBL , Reaction Arms, Manny Transmission

[Larry Davick via Gmclist]

It runs fine at home, but quits on the road. Could the fuel vents be clogged enough so that the little Onan pump can't get gas, but the engine pump
can overcome the vacuum? I don't remember off the top of my head, but the fuel system has a goofy venting system that when working well saves the
vapor for combustion. What if you try driving with the gas cap off for a while?
--
Larry Davick
A Mystery Machine
1976(ish) Palm Beach
Fremont, Ca
Howell EFI + EBL + Electronic Dizzy

[Jim Kanomata via Gmclist]

Sometimes it is the oil pressure switch that is shutting it off. Need to
install a lower pressure sender.

--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
ji...@appliedairfilters.com
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502

[1104agm via Gmclist]

I wonder if it the fuel tanks are getting hot. I had allot of vapor lock problems and last winter when driving the heater motor was going bad. My wife said it was nice and warm in the back of the RV. So I assumed the tanks might be getting warm.

I changed and put a fuel pump that would mount to the generator. It did not help. I moved the fuel pump off the generator and that did not help.

I never thought about vacuum in the tanks. I not going to leave the cap off the tank, I did not get it tight one time and I had to stop as the smell of gas was to strong. Not going to do that.

I’ve removed the finder liner to allow more air flow around the engine and the headers. I ws going to drop the headers but the center bolt did not want to come out with out some help. I did not feel like fighting them at the time. It was suggested I take the fender liner out. It should help increase the air flow around the headers and under the RV.

Thanks everyone.

Art

[John R. Lebetski via Gmclist]

Onans that run fine at home then die on the road is usually a kinked fuel hose between the nipple on the drawer floor and the fuel pump. There was a
factory spring to dress the hose but those have rusted away years ago Drawer closed, line kinks and reduces fuel flow just enough to eventually not
keep up.
--
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II

[Jim Miller via Gmclist]

In one of Onan’s manuals it cautions about using a tee between fuel tanks/ coach engine/ Onan fuel pump inlet and it alludes to a fuel starvation issue as the reason. GMC-upfitted coaches had a separate pickup in the main tank for the Onan per Onan’s commendation but other coaches (like my Coachmen Royale) have the tee. My Royale has been derelict since I bought it so I cannot speak from experience but I tend to put a lot of stock in what the old timers say and if they say a tee’d pickup is a problem then I will defer to their experience and try to avoid such.

Fundamentally there is no reason the Onan cannot run indefinitely while in its enclosure as long as it has 12VDC and uninterrupted fuel.

It is a trivial task to determine if an Onan quit due to a fuel delivery problem: Loosen the carb bowl bolt and see if gas comes out. If it does not then there is a fuel delivery issue. If tuel comes out then the problem lies elsewhere and proceed down that side of the troubleshooting flowchart.

—Jim

Jim Miller
1977 Eleganza
1977 Royale
Hamilton, OH

[Larry Davick via Gmclist]

The tee fitting might be the issue or a crimped hose. One way to test for vacuum issues is to drive without the gas cap - just as a test - and if the
Onan quits you can put that gas cap back on happily and tackle the next suspect.

--
Larry Davick
A Mystery Machine
1976(ish) Palm Beach
Fremont, Ca
Howell EFI + EBL + Electronic Dizzy

[Johnny Bridges via Gmclist]

The tee is a typical 'cheap out' by an upfitter. They didn't want to drop the tanks - or at least the rear - to gain access to the genset fuel
connection. If you have an upfitted Transmode, and if there is a tee feeding the Onan, when you drop the tanks for maintenance, replumb the Onan to
the tank fitting.

--johnny
--
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell

[Matt Colie via Gmclist]

As I seem to recall, the correct fuel cap will vent a vacuum, but hold back close to 1 psi.

Now, If you have not replaced all the fuel line to the Onan, particularly those sections from the tank to the pump inlet, that could be all your
problem right there. It was for me. Then I replaced the fuel line inside the generator space.
It ran like a watch...
Until I pushed it in and latched it....
It would start to stumble...
Until I released the latches and pulled it out just a little.

That new fuel line was just long enough that if not dressed properly it would pinch off when the machine was home.

I would love to have you believe that I discovered and cure this issue right away and with very little effort......

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit

[Johnny Bridges via Gmclist]

Matt, the time you spent dicking with the genset to find the pinched line save me the time I would have spent dicking with mine. I think I can
repurpose a piece of screen door spring - if it isn't too strong - to keep the fuel line up when the genset is pushed into the space.

--johnny
--
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell

[James Hupy via Gmclist]

At your Home Depot or Lowe's in the plumbing tools department you will find
some coiled sleeves in various sizes. One has a large enough I.D. for the
fuel hose to fit inside. They are for bending copper tubing in various
sizes.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or.

[Douglas Smith via Gmclist]

Gentlemen,
One’s intuition would suggest that a big, clunky machine would have big, clunky solutions to problems. That was certainly my initial take on our beloved machine. I learned through hard experience to pay closer attention. This string of posts proves the actual fact that subtlety is more often the route to a solution. As someone who redid all his fuel lines in 2000 and is facing a repeat, this string is a revelation. I never even touched the Onan fuel lines in 2000. My bad. Now I know what to avoid. Let us hope the newbies take the larger lesson and search the forum to read the full discussions and avoid the dead-ends that result in intermittent problems. I REALLY appreciate the back and forth of what people tried and what didn’t completely solve the problem. (Thank you Matt.) Just a comment from a habitual lurker. Thanks again for sharing.

Douglas & Virginia Smith
dsmithy18 at gmail
Lincoln Nebraska
’73 “Canyonlands” since ‘95: “Wanabizo”, Anishinabe Indian for “He gets lost driving” Yes, really.
Quadrabag/6 wheel disks/3;70 final/Paterson QuadraJet/Thorley’s/Sundry other
P&W PT6, no wait, that's the wish list...

[Jim Kanomata via Gmclist]

It was about 8 years ago that the hose manufacturers figured out an
inexpensive way to overcome the Ethanol attack on rubber. The trick was to
install a Barrier, nothing more than a thin nylon type hose covered with
rubber.
So, we have coaches that come in and the customer tells us the hoses been
changed, but in the last 7-8 years.
If one does ot know, then they should replace it now along with Fuel pump,
Tank selector valve,Vapor separator and all the vent lines.

--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
ji...@appliedairfilters.com
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502

[Matt Colie via Gmclist]

Johnny Bridges wrote on Fri, 23 August 2019 15:48

> Matt, the time you spent dicking with the genset to find the pinched line save me the time I would have spent dicking with mine. I think I can
> repurpose a piece of screen door spring - if it isn't too strong - to keep the fuel line up when the genset is pushed into the space.
>
> --johnny

Johnny et al,

It was easier to cure than that.

All I had to do was make the moving fuel line about 2 inches shorter. Then it did kink trying to find room for the extra line I always try to
include.

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit

[Johnny Bridges via Gmclist]

When next I replace mine, I'm going to 'load' it with a twist in one direction or the other, so that it will form a loop - IF ic can figure a loop
that will fit available space.

--johnny
--
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell