[GMCnet] Duracool...where to buy it?

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Larry

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May 24, 2014, 2:27:57 PM5/24/14
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I Googled "Duracool hc12" and there are a lot of places to buy it. Where are you all getting it, and at what price?
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Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.
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Rick Williams

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May 24, 2014, 2:45:00 PM5/24/14
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Larry

Worthington usually has a competitive price.
http://www.worthingtonagparts.com/parts/results.aspx

Rick

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Rick Williams
Bliss, Michigan
1978 Eleganza II

Emery Stora

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May 24, 2014, 2:58:47 PM5/24/14
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I have found the price at Bennett Cycle (Fox Tool Supply ) bennettsupply.com to be lower than Worthington even when Worthington had a sale.


Emery Stora

Carl Stouffer

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May 24, 2014, 3:14:39 PM5/24/14
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I also get it from Bennett Cycle Supply: http://bennettsupply.net/

When I called to order some, I thought I called Dan Gregg by mistake. Same accent. :lol: When I asked if he could ship to AZ, he said, "I can ship
it ANYwhere!" I guess it's up to us to me to decide whether to use it here.
--
Carl Stouffer
'75 ex Palm Beach
Tucson, AZ.

A.

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May 24, 2014, 4:46:10 PM5/24/14
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Carl S. wrote on Sat, 24 May 2014 14:14

> I also get it from Bennett Cycle Supply: http://bennettsupply.net/
>
> When I called to order some, I thought I called Dan Gregg by mistake. Same accent. :lol: When I asked if he could ship to AZ, he said, "I can
> ship it ANYwhere!" I guess it's up to us to me to decide whether to use it here.
Yes it is up to you to decide if you want to comply with the law or not.

"The following 19 states ban the use of flammable refrigerants such as HC-12a® and DURACOOL 12a® in motor vehicle air conditioning, regardless of
the original refrigerant: Arkansas,
Arizona,
Connecticut, Florida, Idaho, Indiana, Iowa, Kansas, Louisiana, Maryland, Nebraska, North Dakota, Oklahoma, Texas, Utah, Virginia, Wisconsin,
Washington, and the District of Columbia."
--
'73 23' Sequoia For Sale
'73 23' CanyonLands For Sale
Upper Alabama

Mr.erf

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May 24, 2014, 4:55:57 PM5/24/14
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Your reference ?

FREE WIFI @ Mickey D

Carl Stouffer

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May 24, 2014, 4:58:20 PM5/24/14
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A Hamilto wrote on Sat, 24 May 2014 13:45

> Carl S. wrote on Sat, 24 May 2014 14:14
> > I also get it from Bennett Cycle Supply: http://bennettsupply.net/
> >
> > When I called to order some, I thought I called Dan Gregg by mistake. Same accent. :lol: When I asked if he could ship to AZ, he said, "I
> > can ship it ANYwhere!" I guess it's up to us to me to decide whether to use it here.
> Yes it is up to you to decide if you want to comply with the law or not.
>
> "The following 19 states ban the use of flammable refrigerants such as HC-12a® and DURACOOL 12a® in motor vehicle air conditioning, regardless
> of the original refrigerant: Arkansas,
> Arizona,
> Connecticut, Florida, Idaho, Indiana, Iowa, Kansas, Louisiana, Maryland, Nebraska, North Dakota, Oklahoma, Texas, Utah, Virginia, Wisconsin,
> Washington, and the District of Columbia."

I saw that before. Are you going to turn me in?


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Carl Stouffer
'75 ex Palm Beach
Tucson, AZ.

A.

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May 24, 2014, 7:23:22 PM5/24/14
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Carl S. wrote on Sat, 24 May 2014 15:58

> A Hamilto wrote on Sat, 24 May 2014 13:45
> > Carl S. wrote on Sat, 24 May 2014 14:14
> > > I also get it from Bennett Cycle Supply: http://bennettsupply.net/
> > >
> > > When I called to order some, I thought I called Dan Gregg by mistake. Same accent. :lol: When I asked if he could ship to AZ, he said,
> > > "I can ship it ANYwhere!" I guess it's up to us to me to decide whether to use it here.
> > Yes it is up to you to decide if you want to comply with the law or not.
> >
> > "The following 19 states ban the use of flammable refrigerants such as HC-12a® and DURACOOL 12a® in motor vehicle air conditioning,
> > regardless of the original refrigerant: Arkansas,
> > Arizona,
> > Connecticut, Florida, Idaho, Indiana, Iowa, Kansas, Louisiana, Maryland, Nebraska, North Dakota, Oklahoma, Texas, Utah, Virginia, Wisconsin,
> > Washington, and the District of Columbia."
> I saw that before. Are you going to turn me in?
:lol: No way. I think it is stupid that state and fed gov'ts let the lobbyists for the freon producers convince that that freon is preferable to HC
refrigerants. The hydrocarbon based products are actually superior in every way: efficiency, component compatibility, corrosiveness and environmental
impact.

--
'73 23' Sequoia For Sale
'73 23' CanyonLands For Sale
Upper Alabama

_______________________________________________

Bob de Kruyff

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May 24, 2014, 10:04:04 PM5/24/14
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A Hamilto wrote on Sat, 24 May 2014 14:45

> Carl S. wrote on Sat, 24 May 2014 14:14
> > I also get it from Bennett Cycle Supply: http://bennettsupply.net/
> >
> > When I called to order some, I thought I called Dan Gregg by mistake. Same accent. :lol: When I asked if he could ship to AZ, he said, "I
> > can ship it ANYwhere!" I guess it's up to us to me to decide whether to use it here.
> Yes it is up to you to decide if you want to comply with the law or not.
>
> "The following 19 states ban the use of flammable refrigerants such as HC-12a® and DURACOOL 12a® in motor vehicle air conditioning, regardless
> of the original refrigerant: Arkansas,
> Arizona,
> Connecticut, Florida, Idaho, Indiana, Iowa, Kansas, Louisiana, Maryland, Nebraska, North Dakota, Oklahoma, Texas, Utah, Virginia, Wisconsin,
> Washington, and the District of Columbia."

Turn me in too?
--
Bob de Kruyff
78 Eleganza
Chandler, AZ

Larry

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May 24, 2014, 10:26:06 PM5/24/14
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Thanks Gents...got what I need....

Ken Burton

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May 24, 2014, 10:55:07 PM5/24/14
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http://www.worthingtonagparts.com/about/locations.aspx
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Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana

Ken Burton

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May 24, 2014, 10:59:17 PM5/24/14
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The last time I was there it was $5.25 per can. It may have gone up.

Chris Tyler

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May 25, 2014, 1:33:00 PM5/25/14
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Im going to be making the switch soon myself both on the GMC and my Lincoln mk IV
Reading the info on GMMHI Duracool conversion section, it says "it actually works better if you dont pull a vaccum" but the link is dead.
Cant find anything on this. Anyone have any idea why?
--
76 Glenbrook

Bob de Kruyff

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May 25, 2014, 1:39:11 PM5/25/14
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Chris Tyler wrote on Sun, 25 May 2014 11:32
> Im going to be making the switch soon myself both on the GMC and my Lincoln mk IV
> Reading the info on GMMHI Duracool conversion section, it says "it actually works better if you dont pull a vaccum" but the link is dead.
> Cant find anything on this. Anyone have any idea why?

I wanted to mention that if you install Duracool on newer computerized vehicles, you may run into a problem with the cooling fan not coming on due to
lower head pressures. This will cause poor cooling at idle.
--
Bob de Kruyff
78 Eleganza
Chandler, AZ

Emery Stora

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May 25, 2014, 2:30:06 PM5/25/14
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Why? Because it is absolutely untrue,

Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Frederick, CO

Ken Burton

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May 25, 2014, 4:40:30 PM5/25/14
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Chris Tyler wrote on Sun, 25 May 2014 12:32
> Im going to be making the switch soon myself both on the GMC and my Lincoln mk IV
> Reading the info on GMMHI Duracool conversion section, it says "it actually works better if you dont pull a vaccum" but the link is dead.
> Cant find anything on this. Anyone have any idea why?



I do not have any idea where that came from but I can't agree. You might send a note to Emery and ask him. If there is any truth to it he will know
and explain why.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana

John Wright

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May 25, 2014, 11:30:37 PM5/25/14
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I am with Ken on this. When you pull a vacuum on system it allows you to check for leaks and to insure that any moisture is also removed. The resident expert here on using Duracool is Emery and maybe he will respond.
JR Wright
78 Buskirk Stretch
75 Avion
Michigan

Emery Stora

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May 25, 2014, 11:48:16 PM5/25/14
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I responded at 12:30 today.

Emery Stora

gene Fisher

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May 26, 2014, 5:34:09 AM5/26/14
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I agree with sucking the system down for water and leak checks
But
Here is the broken link
http://www.fm-distributing.com/instruction.html

I have recharged many -empty- gmc's , on the road without, a vacuum pump

And they are still good years later

Erf


--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html

Emery Stora

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May 26, 2014, 11:19:41 AM5/26/14
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I don't agree with that statement. It is always best to pull a vacuum.

If there is still pressure in the system you can bleed down the refrigerant until most is out and then fill with Duracool until you reach 20psi at 1500 rpm. This will usually take three 6oz cans.

If there is no pressure in the system then you must apply a vacuum pump. A leak in the system will not only leak out all the refrigerant but with the cycling of night and day temperatures it will draw air into the system and with it water vapor. This can cause blockage if you attempt to fill without vacuuming the system.

I have no idea of why anyone can say it will work better if you don't apply a vacuum. That is so far fetched I don't know why anyone could say that.

Even if there were still pressure in the system it would still be better to vacuum the system as it will be better if one gets out all of the R12 or. R134a.

Emery Stora

> On May 25, 2014, at 11:32 AM, Chris Tyler <dtyl...@tampabay.rr.com> wrote:
>

gene Fisher

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May 26, 2014, 12:10:37 PM5/26/14
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On Monday, May 26, 2014, Emery Stora <emery...@mac.com> wrote:

> I don't agree with that statement. It is always best to pull a vacuum.
>
> If there is still pressure in the system you can bleed down the
> refrigerant until most is out and then fill with Duracool until you reach
> 20psi at 1500 rpm. This will usually take three 6oz cans.
>
> If there is no pressure in the system then you must apply a vacuum pump. A
> leak in the system will not only leak out all the refrigerant but with the
> cycling of night and day temperatures it will draw air into the system and
> with it water vapor. This can cause blockage if you attempt to fill
> without vacuuming the system.
>
> I have no idea of why anyone can say it will work better if you don't
> apply a vacuum. That is so far fetched I don't know why anyone could say
> that.
>
>

Even in a camp ground in remote Oregon at 110 degrees with your wife sick
with heat prostration ?
And
I have never seen you pump down a gmc at a rally :)

Erf

> Even if there were still pressure in the system it would still be better
> to vacuum the system as it will be better if one gets out all of the R12
> or. R134a.
>
> Emery Stora
>

> > On May 25, 2014, at 11:32 AM, Chris Tyler <dtyl...@tampabay.rr.com<javascript:;>>


> wrote:
> >
> > Im going to be making the switch soon myself both on the GMC and my
> Lincoln mk IV
> > Reading the info on GMMHI Duracool conversion section, it says "it
> actually works better if you dont pull a vaccum" but the link is dead.
> > Cant find anything on this. Anyone have any idea why?
> > --
> > 76 Glenbrook
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
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> _______________________________________________
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--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html

larry.whisler

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May 26, 2014, 12:11:03 PM5/26/14
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According to this article, Arkansas, Nevada, Arizona and Idaho
have failed in their attempt to ban the use of hydrocarbon
refrigerants.

I found this article while searching the web. It seemed strange to me
that Idaho was on the list and also the home of OZ Technology.

http://proliberty.com/observer//prt0897c.htm

Most of these states that ban flammable refrigerants in vehicle
a/c's already had the laws on the books. They had to modify the
laws to allow the EPA's flammable SNAP refrigerants to be used.

Too bad that the EPA has it's head stuck in the sand on this issue ( and others ).

Hydrocarbon based refrigerants are proven to have less environmental impact than
their SNAP counterparts ( many of which are also flammable ).

JMHO

larry

Tom Whitton

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May 26, 2014, 12:18:52 PM5/26/14
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Emery and/or others,

If you fully evaculate the AC system, do you just put in Duracool or should some lubrication also be added? My compressor is very loud and I need to do something. Though loud, it still cooled last summer but I haven't tried it yet this year. I have three cans of Duracool. I have never tackled the AC system myself but want to try. I'll do what it takes, including a new compressor, if necessary. I need directions and suggestions please.

Thanks,

Tom Whitton
26 foot updated GMC
Paducah, KY

Emery Stora

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May 26, 2014, 1:23:22 PM5/26/14
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Did you have a broken hose or other large leak? That would blow out some oil. A very slow leak usually will not. Such as a slow leak past the compressor seal.

If you are evacuating it I suggest that you replace the receiver /dryer. There is a chart in the GMC Maintenance Manual that tells you how much oil to add when replacing a component such as the recierver /dryer. Just pour the oil into the receiver before you install it.

If your system had the original R-12 you should use mineral oil. DO NOT mix ester (synthetic) oil with it.

When I had R-12 I used to add one can each year. It was likely a leak past the clutch seal. I never had to add oil though. When I switched to Duracool I didn't have to add any for over 6 years. This is due to a larger molecule which won't leak as easily. Also, the system operates at a lower pressure. This means less leakage plus less load on the engine.

Another suggestion, especially if you still have the original refrigerant , is to start your engine at least once per month year around and run the air conditional for a short time. This keeps the clutch seal lubricated and less likely to leak.

Emery Stora

Emery Stora

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May 26, 2014, 1:38:54 PM5/26/14
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Gene

What was stated is
>
>> "It actually works better if you dont pull a vaccum"

That is what I was disagreeing with. It cannot possibly "work better".

Yes you probably haven't seen me use a vacuum pump at a convention because you haven't been to most of the rallies I have attended in the last few years. As I said, if there is still pressure in the system I will purge and refill with Duracool (HC12a). A few years back at Pueblo I filled 14 systems this way without a vacuum pump and I have also done this at other rallies. BUT, I also bring my vacuum pump with me and have used it. Usually with systems that have had a leak and don't have any pressure in the system. I can then find the leak and repair it and then evacuate the system and put in the Duracool. Duracool is so much more efficient that there really is no problem if there is a little residual R-12 in the system however it will work slightly better if it is pure Duracool.

Emery Stora

gene Fisher

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May 26, 2014, 3:01:58 PM5/26/14
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>
>
>
A few years back at Pueblo I filled 14 systems this way without a vacuum
> pump and I have also done this at other rallies.


​YUP, what i remember
erf​

Tom Whitton

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May 26, 2014, 4:21:48 PM5/26/14
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Emery,

My AC system was converted to R134 a few years back. I have not started the AC since last summer but appreciate the suggestion to do so monthly in the future. Anyway, the compressor is not only loud but actually pulls the engine down when it is running, however, it still cools. I guess the belt could be too tight. I'll check that. Beyond the belt being too to tight, how do I determine if I need to replace the compressor in addition to the receiver/dryer? Can I assume Duracool is compatible with R134?

Tom Whitton
26 foot updated GMC
Paducah, KY

Robert Mueller

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May 26, 2014, 8:07:27 PM5/26/14
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Tom,

Emery noted; "Another suggestion, especially if you still have the original refrigerant, is to start your engine at least once per
month year around and run the air conditional for a short time. This keeps the clutch seal lubricated and less likely to leak."

I ASSUME this to mean start the engine and let it idle with the A/C on. While doing that may be good for the A/C we have
consistently told people not to do that if their GMC is stored for the winter. If they want to run the engine to take the GMC out on
the road and get it up to full operating temperature.

Regards,
Rob M.

-----Original Message-----
From: Tom Whitton

Emery,

My AC system was converted to R134 a few years back. I have not started the AC since last summer but appreciate the suggestion to
do so monthly in the future. Anyway, the compressor is not only loud but actually pulls the engine down when it is running,
however, it still cools. I guess the belt could be too tight. I'll check that. Beyond the belt being too to tight, how do I
determine if I need to replace the compressor in addition to the receiver/dryer? Can I assume Duracool is compatible with R134?

Tom

Chris Tyler

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May 28, 2014, 3:14:40 AM5/28/14
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Thanks for the feedback. Not pulling the system down didn't make sense to me either.

I gather the point is, if you still have pressure, you can add it without ill effect.

I still have pressure in the GMC, just low enough to trip the pressure switch. I am probably going to try to get some r-12 adapter fittings for my
manifold gauges and top it off for this season. It must be a minor leak, prob the compresssor seal mentioned..


Interesting that locallly, I found most auto AC shops not willing to work on the GMC system with R12. I was looking just to have it evacuated for the
duracool. Trying to responsible in my older age. I hate to think how many cans of freon my friends and I vented to the ozone layer with a freon
powered full auto BB gun years ago.

My lincoln is dead empty and will need flushing before I try the Duracool. Prob will add a new compressor and def a drier. Had to have 1 line made as
it is no longer availible.
--
76 Glenbrook

Bob de Kruyff

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May 28, 2014, 11:23:15 PM5/28/14
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Tom Whitton wrote on Mon, 26 May 2014 14:21
I doubt a tight belt can cause what you are talking about. Normally the AC will noticeably slow down the engine when engaged. You may have a worn unit
that still works just fine. A good one is usually barely audible.
--
Bob de Kruyff
78 Eleganza
Chandler, AZ
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