[GMCnet] Booster Solenoid Wiring Question
Gary Bovee
The booster solenoid looks like it is fairly new and I want to double check that it is wired correctly. On the front of the booster solenoid there are two connections. One is marked with an I and the other with an S. I have a black an orange wire going to the connections. Can any tell me which one goes to which post? I want to make sure it is wired correctly.
Gary Bovee
1978 Royale by Coachman
Red Bluff, CA
Free - Idiot's Internet Guide to Finding 1973-1978 GMC Motorhome Information
http://www.gmceast.com/about/guide/index.html
Wireless Air System
http://gmcws.org/blog/?p=260
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showgallery.php?ppuser=1901&username=gcbgold
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
gene Fisher
orange wire going to the connections. Can any tell me which one goes to
which post? I want to make sure it is wired correctly.
either one
one is power from the switch
the other is ground
check with your volt meter
here is some poop
http://www.gmcws.org/Tech/BOOST_SWITCH_GMCWS.pdf
gene
> Gary Bovee
> 1978 Royale by Coachman
> Red Bluff, CA
> Free - Idiot's Internet Guide to Finding 1973-1978 GMC Motorhome
> Information
> http://www.gmceast.com/about/guide/index.html
> Wireless Air System
> http://gmcws.org/blog/?p=260
>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showgallery.php?ppuser=1901&username=gcbgold
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
gene Fisher
gene
Gary Bovee
Gary
r...@gmcnet.org
Mr ERFisher wrote on Sun, 23 October 2011 10:04
Gene I agree if it is the original solenoid but what if someone put in ford type solenoid? the "I" would go to the points type coil and the "S" would to the start terminal of the ignition. If this is the new solenoid the black wire probably should not be connected if it is a ford type. If it isn't a continuous duty solenoid it may be burnt out? Does it click when power is applied to the S terminal?
If it doesn't I would get another continuous duty RV type solenoid and wire it as Gene suggested.
Gary Bovee
that kind of test in about 40 years, so I forget it was that simple.
Let me back up a little an explain what is going on. The wire from the 50
amp breaker to the booster solenoid was about 12 ga. Too small to carry
much current. I replaced it with a much larger wire. That may have been my
problem why the engine would not turn over before. Everything may be fine
now. I just don't want to get stuck again if the engine battery is low and
I need a boost from the house batteries. I wanted to make sure everything
was wired up right. Now that I know the boost switch and the solenoid is
working, hopefully I'll be OK.
Thank,
Gary
Rob Mueller
I discovered that the Boost Solenoid didn't work on Double Trouble while I was at the Coop and was going to have JimB order a new
one when he suggested I remove all the connections, clean; and reconnect them. I followed his instructions and it worked fine.
Also it has been mentioned here a number of times that the Boost Solenoid is a continuous duty solenoid and should be replaced with
a like item not a "momentary on" solenoid.
Regards,
Rob M.
-----Original Message-----
From: Gary Bovee
A while back I had left the headlights on and ran the engine batter dead on our 1978 Royale. I flipped the boost switch on and
tried starting the engine. Nothing happened. I checked my house batteries and they were fully charged.
The booster solenoid looks like it is fairly new and I want to double check that it is wired correctly. On the front of the booster
solenoid there are two connections. One is marked with an I and the other with an S. I have a black an orange wire going to the
connections. Can any tell me which one goes to which post? I want to make sure it is wired correctly.
Gary
_______________________________________________
r...@gmcnet.org
I moved my battery's from the rear compartment to the front next to the starting battery many years ago . I don't have the wiring schematic in front of me but if the boost relay is powered from the starting battery and it is stone dead like 0 volts you wouldn't be able to pull in the solenoid. In this case you could use a small temporary jumper with alligator clips from the fully charged coach battery too the S terminal too pull in the boost solenoid. Then you could crank your engine till it started then remove the small jumper. You could test this by removing the starting battery cable from the starting battery and doing this. If she cranks over you are home free.
Roy
Rob Mueller
You can also install a jumper switch like this:
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=39553
This is one of JimB's mods and it is pretty handy. If your alternator dies you can close the switch; fire up the Onan; and the house
battery system will feed 12 VDC to the engine / chassis system and the house battery charging system will keep the voltage up.
As JimB says, you could drive from Orlando to Oakland like that!
Regards,
Rob M.
Gary Bovee
I tried as you suggested using a small temporary jumper with alligator clips
from the coach battery to the S terminal too pull in the boost solenoid in
with the starting battery disconnected. It worked perfect. The engine
turned right over.
Thanks for your suggestion.
Rob, I like your suggestion too (Jim B's idea) about installing an extra
switch. I'll add that to my to do list of things to add to the GMC.
Thanks,
Gary
Dan Winchester
The reason for doing this is to keep from drawing to much current thru the wire connecting the house battery to the boost switch. This is particular important where the house battery is in back of coach. In the case of my 78 Royal this was no more then a #10 wire which has no chance of starting a coach with dead engine battery and could easily melt with that type of abuse.
Dan Winchester
www.dwinchester.com
----- Reply message -----
From: "Gary Bovee" <gcb...@digitalpath.net>
Date: Sun, Oct 23, 2011 11:21 am
Subject: [GMCnet] Booster Solenoid Wiring Question
To: <gmc...@temp.gmcnet.org>
Roy, Yes it clicks when I apply power to the S terminal. I hadn't done
that kind of test in about 40 years, so I forget it was that simple.
Let me back up a little an explain what is going on. The wire from the 50
amp breaker to the booster solenoid was about 12 ga. Too small to carry
much current. I replaced it with a much larger wire. That may have been my
problem why the engine would not turn over before. Everything may be fine
now. I just don't want to get stuck again if the engine battery is low and
I need a boost from the house batteries. I wanted to make sure everything
was wired up right. Now that I know the boost switch and the solenoid is
working, hopefully I'll be OK.
Thank,
Gary
-----Original Message-----
From: r...@gmcnet.org ; ke...@gmcnet.org ; Min...@gmcnet.org ; Nv '76
Glenbrook
Sent: Sunday, October 23, 2011 10:53 AM
To: gmc...@temp.gmcnet.org
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Booster Solenoid Wiring Question
Richard
Dan,
Does that also apply to my '77 Palm Beach
with the spring loaded boost switch?
Thanks
--
Bukzin
1977 Palm Beach
Chico California
Mike Miller
bukzin wrote on Mon, 24 October 2011 09:31
> Dan,
>
> Does that also apply to my '77 Palm Beach
> with the spring loaded boost switch?
I am not Dan, but might be able to address this.
IF your Palm Beach (GM upfitted) is still "as stock" it has a much better battery set-up than the Royales. (Coachman upfitted)
The GM design has a large cable running between the front (chassis) and the rear (house) batteries. So there will be less voltage drop when using the boost switch. As a result, you should be able to "jump" the engine with the momentary boost switch. BUT it still isn't a bad idea to hold it a while before hitting the starter... maybe not 10 minutes...
A note on the Coachman design:
The exact configuration seems to vary from build team to build team and day to day. Each coach is a little different. But I am fairly certain there was a large cable running front to back in the design spec.
I am not very fond of the method used to route this cable on all the Coachman upfitted coaches I have been able to inspect. It is draped over moving parts without protection, but is was there.
If I owned a Royale, I would convert the OEM split house system (one house battery in back paralleled with a house battery up front) to either all batteries up front (like the Birch) or the GM design. (Engine battery up front, house/genset battery bank in back.)
--
Mike Miller -- Hillsboro, OR -- on the Black list
(#1)'73 26' exPainted D. -- (#2)`78 23' Birchaven Rear Bath -- (#3)`77 23' Birchaven Side Bath
http://m000035.blogspot.com
Dan Winchester
Dan Winchester
www.dwinchester.com
----- Reply message -----
From: "Mike Miller" <m00...@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, Oct 24, 2011 11:36 am
Subject: [GMCnet] Booster Solenoid Wiring Question
To: <gmc...@temp.gmcnet.org>
George Rudawsky
This may seem like a strange question, but why not use a Ford starter solenoid if you are just using it to quickly start the coach? I have replaced my front solenoid with the correct one that Jim Bounds sent me, but I know there is another solenoid back in the generator compartment. It seems that the starter solenod should be sufficient, but am I overlooking something?
--
George Rudawsky
Chicago, IL
75 Palm Beach
Matt Colie
GeorgeRud wrote on Mon, 24 October 2011 18:02
> This may seem like a strange question, but why not use a Ford starter solenoid if you are just using it to quickly start the coach? I have replaced my front solenoid with the correct one that Jim Bounds sent me, but I know there is another solenoid back in the generator compartment. It seems that the starter solenoid should be sufficient, but am I overlooking something?
George,
A started solenoid is actually different internally, and if put in a situation with a low current load, they frequently don't pull in solidly. Look at the diagrams in a chassis wiring schematic. You will see that the battery contactors (solenoids) have only a single winding, but the type used for starters has two.
It would work if you had to have something to put in there, but it also might overheat if you leave it on too long.
Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie
'73 Glacier 23 Chaumiere (say show-me-air) Just about as stock as you will find
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
Johnny Bridges
--johnny
'76 23' transmode Norris
'76 Palm Beach
________________________________
From: Dan Winchester <gmc...@dwinchester.com>
To: Gary Bovee <gcb...@digitalpath.net>; gmc...@temp.gmcnet.org
Sent: Sunday, October 23, 2011 10:01 PM
Rob Mueller
I got to thinking about this and would like some help.
Here is a link to the Avion's 12 Volt Wiring Diagram:
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=41274
As you can see the rear batteries are connected to the fuse block through a 40 amp fuse.
The Fwd. Int. Battery is right next to the Chassis battery and the total length of the cables is probably less than three feet and
is large. The cable from the two Rear Interior Batteries is much smaller; the OD of the insulation is probably 3/16".
When I hit the Boost switch why doesn't that fuse blow as I am sure the current draw of the starter is way more than 40 amps?
Regards,
Rob "electrically challenged" M.
Mike Miller
Robert Mueller wrote on Tue, 25 October 2011 17:50
> G'day,
>
> I got to thinking about this and would like some help.
>
> Here is a link to the Avion's 12 Volt Wiring Diagram:
>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=41274
>
> As you can see the rear batteries are connected to the fuse block through a 40 amp fuse.
>
> The Fwd. Int. Battery is right next to the Chassis battery and the total length of the cables is probably less than three feet and
> is large. The cable from the two Rear Interior Batteries is much smaller; the OD of the insulation is probably 3/16".
>
> When I hit the Boost switch why doesn't that fuse blow as I am sure the current draw of the starter is way more than 40 amps?
Something about that diagram bothers me....
I am not an engineer but I am a tech...
Looks like the Fwd. Int. Battery would supply most of the current to boost the engine starting system. The long run of relatively smaller gauge wire will have enough resistance to limit the amount of current flowing from the Rear Interior Batteries through the boost switch to the starting system. AS LONG as the front battery is providing it. If the Fwd. Int. Battery doesn't have the capability to provide the current for the starter... I am fairly certain that one of the TWO fuses in the current path would blow.
To me that system makes even less sense than the system that was installed in the Royales.
But evidentially it works well enough....
--
Mike Miller -- Hillsboro, OR -- on the Black list
(#1)'73 26' exPainted D. -- (#2)`78 23' Birchaven Rear Bath -- (#3)`77 23' Birchaven Side Bath
http://m000035.blogspot.com
John R. Lebetski
George, the second solenoid in the back is to temporarily shunt the breaker in the back during boost. When in non boost the long cable is then protected against a chafe type or any short by the breaker.
If you don't have a Yandina combiner I can't say enough about what a simple addon that was and how it's a hands off device that works without intervention. Simplicty is bliss.
--
John Lebetski
Chicago, IL
77 Eleganza II
Ken Henderson
I agree with Mike: They're depending on the forward Aux. battery to take
the surge and the resistance of the long run from the rear to limit current
draw from the rear Aux. battery. After all, it takes only 0.3 Ohms to limit
the current from a 12 VDC battery to 40 A.
But to protect those fuses, if you need to boost start, activate the boost
switch for at least 30 s., preferably longer, before engaging the starter.
That will supply a little charge to the Chassis battery, enabling it to
help the boost batteries run the starter rather than adding to the draw from
them.
Ken H.
On Tue, Oct 25, 2011 at 8:50 PM, Rob Mueller <robmu...@iinet.net.au>wrote:
> G'day,
>
> I got to thinking about this and would like some help.
>
> Here is a link to the Avion's 12 Volt Wiring Diagram:
>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=41274
>
> As you can see the rear batteries are connected to the fuse block through a
> 40 amp fuse.
>
> The Fwd. Int. Battery is right next to the Chassis battery and the total
> length of the cables is probably less than three feet and
> is large. The cable from the two Rear Interior Batteries is much smaller;
> the OD of the insulation is probably 3/16".
>
> When I hit the Boost switch why doesn't that fuse blow as I am sure the
> current draw of the starter is way more than 40 amps?
>
>
Dan Winchester
In every day operation a configuration of a battery bank with this much seperation between batteries stresses some batteries more then others and will shorten battery bank life.
Dan Winchester
www.dwinchester.com
----- Reply message -----
From: "Rob Mueller" <robmu...@iinet.net.au>
Date: Tue, Oct 25, 2011 5:50 pm
Subject: [GMCnet] Booster Solenoid Wiring Question
To: <gmc...@temp.gmcnet.org>
G'day,
I got to thinking about this and would like some help.
Here is a link to the Avion's 12 Volt Wiring Diagram:
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=41274
As you can see the rear batteries are connected to the fuse block through a 40 amp fuse.
The Fwd. Int. Battery is right next to the Chassis battery and the total length of the cables is probably less than three feet and
is large. The cable from the two Rear Interior Batteries is much smaller; the OD of the insulation is probably 3/16".
When I hit the Boost switch why doesn't that fuse blow as I am sure the current draw of the starter is way more than 40 amps?
Regards,
Rob "electrically challenged" M.
_______________________________________________
Matt Colie
Johnny Bridges wrote on Tue, 25 October 2011 20:19
> One benefit of the Trandmode - Bpth batteries are up front.
>
> --johnny
> '76 23' transmode Norris
> '76 Palm Beach
Johnny,
It isn't that it is a Transmode, most 23' have house and chassis batteries in the front.
Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie
'73 Glacier 23 Chaumiere (say show-me-air) Just about as stock as you will find
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit