But, the answer is yes, the FiTech ignition control is an advance curve programmed into a table without a knock sensor. It needs a locked out standard distributor (not HEI) to work. Most of the FiTech support people with whom I have spoken say they run their own classic/muscle cars using the HEI distributor. When Dick Patterson discussed this with FiTech at a trade show, he found the curve to be about what he programs into his HEI units designed for our GMCs. I had him curve one of his HEI distributors for my FiTech application in the Clasco and it seems to perform well.
The 400hp unit was not available when I purchased my 600 hp unit from FiTech - or at least I was unaware of it at that time if it did exist then. The design of the throttle body is the injectors do not squirt directly into the area of the throttle butterfly plates. Instead they squirt into an annular chamber that runs all around the throttle body. Small holes in the inside of the throttle body direct the pressurized fuel from the injectors into the throttle body all around on top of the throttle butterfly plates which they say delivers better atomization. It is not clear to me whether there is any real world difference between the two sizes of injectors given this delivery mechanism. All I know is the 600 hp unit works very well for me. I had one person off line tell me I should be experiencing bogging issues given the size of the injectors in the 600 hp unit. I am not. The only anomaly I have experienced is on two occasions while trying to reset the manual idle air back to the factory setting (I improperly moved that adjustment during installation) I experienced a bog right off idle when first firing up the engine from a cold state and driving off immediately. I have not experienced that since I think I got the manual idle air back close to where it belongs.
Most of the folks who are using computer based spark control with a knock sensor say they are able to achieve more advance without pre-ignition and so experience perhaps a 1 (some even say 2) mpg gain in fuel mileage. Some say they do not. Using the HEI distributor curve in both the Clasco with the FiTech EFI and the Royale with a Patterson Qjet I can’t readily tell any difference in fuel mileage. There is a lot of difference in throttle response, altitude compensation, immediate starting, etc. Lots of variation in our old beasts, I guess.
Jerry
Jerry Work
The Dovetail Joint
Fine furniture designed and hand crafted in the 1907 former Masonic Temple building in historic Kerby, OR
glw...@mac.com
http://jerrywork.com
==============
Message: 12
Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2016 09:37:58 -0400
From: Ken Henderson <hend...@bellsouth.net>
To: gmc...@list.gmcnet.org
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Fi Tech - any downwsides
Message-ID:
<CANsh1i1Beq51qmT+per-7h_ix=hDeZJEL_GL1O...@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
John,
In addition to the restriction to points type distributors, it's my
understanding that the only ignition "control" is that the advance curve is
controlled by software tables. That is, there is no knock detector
providing feedback and real time control of advance.
Is that correct?
Thanks,
Ken H.
On Fri, Apr 22, 2016 at 8:53 AM, jhb1 <jhb...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Hi Gordon
>
> I originally ordered the 400hp unit but kept getting the delivery pushed
> back. I ended up ordering the 600hp unit the differences between the two are
> injector sizes and the 400hp unit does not support ignition control. The
> ignition control only works on points type distributors early models
> non-HEI.
> Hope this helps
> —
=================
If I weren't already deeply into TBI with EBL, I'd probably be going with
that system also. I don't see the dramatic mileage improvement with CCD
that some claim, but then I don't track MPG much either. I do enjoy
knowing I have full advance without having to worry about not being able to
hear knocking though.
Ken H.
On Fri, Apr 22, 2016 at 12:43 PM, Gerald Work <glw...@mac.com> wrote:
> I’m not John,
>
> But, the answer is yes, the FiTech ignition control is an advance curve
> programmed into a table without a knock sensor. It needs a locked out
> standard distributor (not HEI) to work. Most of the FiTech support people
> with whom I have spoken say they run their own classic/muscle cars using
> the HEI distributor. When Dick Patterson discussed this with FiTech at a
> trade show, he found the curve to be about what he programs into his HEI
> units designed for our GMCs. I had him curve one of his HEI distributors
> for my FiTech application in the Clasco and it seems to perform well.
> ...
Jerry
Jerry Work
The Dovetail Joint
Fine furniture designed and hand crafted in the 1907 former Masonic Temple building in historic Kerby, OR
glw...@mac.com
http://jerrywork.com
=============
Message: 8
Date: Sat, 23 Apr 2016 06:51:16 -0600
From: Larry <weid...@wwt.net>
To: gmc...@list.gmcnet.org
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Fi Tech - any downwsides
Message-ID: <49203.5...@gmc.mybirdfeeder.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
Jerry,
I don't get it. Exactly how does the FiTech hook up and then control the spark? What does "locked out"... "standard distributor" mean? I have a
points distributor converted to Hall effect and curved by Patterson....or would my EFI distributor plug directly into the FiTech?
--
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.
=============
Here is a comment the owner of the Safeguard company made a few years ago when asked about the knock sensor hearing pre-detonation or piston slap on race engines. Not sure it has any applicability for our GMCs, but sure sounds like after market knock sensors can be a touchy subject:
"Our latest units are calibrated for Bosch or other brand "donut" style knock sensors. We no longer use GM "one wire" sensors, as included with the MSD Knock Alert. That's a clever analog design from the 1980's and works well with a quiet engine, but it has no micro-processor or other logic.
John Pizzuto
J&S Electronics”
I am also wondering about the base economics of trying to eek out another mpg or so by trying to advance timing more than a properly curved HEI will do under similar circumstances. Not trying to sell any thing here as I have no dog in this hunt. Just thinking through all I am reading -
A new engine costs somewhere between $3500 and $15000 with the R&R depending on lots of things. I will use $5000 as a rough average. We drive our two coaches a lot each year, but I doubt if most of our owners drive more than 10,000 miles a year, if that. Depending on how fast one drives, how loaded the coach is and where they drive (mountain west or flatlander) most GMCs will get 8 to 10 mpg. Lets use 9mpg as an average for this purpose. At 9mpg over 10,000 miles one will burn about 1100 gallons of fuel. At, say, $2.50 per gallon that is about $2,750 per year. With absolutely perfect spark control what is hear is the gain could be maybe 1 to as much as 2 mpg. Lets use 1.5mpg. 1.5 on 9 is an increase of a bit over 15% which would mean a savings of around $400 or so per year. At this rate the perfect spark control savings would take somewhere around 9 to 30+ years to equal the cost of one engine R&R if the spark control was not perfect and/or the aftermarket knock sensor failed to retard adequately or fast enough to keep from burning a hole in a piston or worse. Hmmmm…..
Food for thought, anyway.
Jerry
Jerry Work
The Dovetail Joint
Fine furniture designed and hand crafted in the 1907 former Masonic Temple building in historic Kerby, OR
glw...@mac.com
http://jerrywork.com
================