[GMCnet] Steering upper rubber boot

[twll...@gmail.com]

There are only traces of the rubber boot left on my steering column, the joint and bearings seem ok still but I do need to get one back on there and
packed ASAP! Where do i get one and how do I install it?

thanks guys

Larry
--
Larry - Victoria BC -

1977 Palm Beach VIN TZE167V101295 - 39,000 miles, PO said everything working but forgot the word NOT. New wiper blades, New SS exhaust system ..
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[Jim Kanomata]

WE have them and everything else in stock.
Go to our sight and look and order on line or call.

--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
ji...@appliedairfilters.com
http://www.gmcrvparts.com
1-800-752-7502

[Larry]

About 15ys ago i was faced with boot issues on the slip shaft. After reading a reference to a 4X4 shock boot being used by somebody, and looking at a
picture of the whole shaft in a Caspro catalog, I went to NAPA where I opened every box that had a shock boot and found one that fit almost perfect.
The brand name is "Strut Mate". NAPA part # 63975 for $15.95. It covers the CV joint clear down to the zirk on the lower part of the shaft. The upper
end was a tight fit and is held in place with the zip tie supplied with the boot. The zip tie however did not work well, so I replaced it with a
narrow hose clamp, Lower part was just a little big so I fit the split in the boot around the zirk and put a zip tie on either side of the zirk,
keeping it from sliding either up or down, but still leaving the zirk out for greasing. Been using it that way for 15+ years now with no issues. JWID

--
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.

[Rob]

This link is one of the threads discussing the NAPA part:

http://gmc.mybirdfeeder.net/GMCforum/index.php?t=msg&th=38844&goto=316739&rid=0#msg_316739

I used a Honda? boot years ago for the CV/Upper boot and it split within 12-18 months. It's normally VERY dry during our camping season, so it's has not been repalced yet.. I was thinking about trying the NAPA/Monroe part myself - but hadn't fully considered all options.

More info on replacement (if you feel like reading):

http://gmc.mybirdfeeder.net/GMCforum/index.php?t=msg&th=32274&goto=262319&rid=0#msg_262319

http://gmc.mybirdfeeder.net/GMCforum/index.php?t=msg&th=40226&goto=327804&rid=0#msg_327804

http://gmcmotorhome.info/steering.htm#shaft

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g6091-steering-shaft.html

Rob
76 Royale Twin Beds, Dry Bath
Victoria, BC

[twll...@gmail.com]

Hey Larry - I read your post in an archive yesterday and already went searching for the "Strut Mate", NAPA part # 63975. Napa have either changed
their numbering system or the part is NLA - any searches I did came up blank.

Thanks anyway, sounds like just the thing for the job.

all the best

Larry

Larry wrote on Wed, 14 April 2021 04:57

> About 15ys ago i was faced with boot issues on the slip shaft. After reading a reference to a 4X4 shock boot being used by somebody, and looking
> at a picture of the whole shaft in a Caspro catalog, I went to NAPA where I opened every box that had a shock boot and found one that fit almost
> perfect. The brand name is "Strut Mate". NAPA part # 63975 for $15.95. It covers the CV joint clear down to the zirk on the lower part of the shaft.
> The upper end was a tight fit and is held in place with the zip tie supplied with the boot. The zip tie however did not work well, so I replaced it
> with a narrow hose clamp, Lower part was just a little big so I fit the split in the boot around the zirk and put a zip tie on either side of the
> zirk, keeping it from sliding either up or down, but still leaving the zirk out for greasing. Been using it that way for 15+ years now with no
> issues. JWID


--

Larry - Victoria BC -

1977 Palm Beach VIN TZE167V101295 - 39,000 miles, PO said everything working but forgot the word NOT. New wiper blades, New SS exhaust system ..

[Rob]

I've not used this boot - but this is what I found when I looked:

https://www.napacanada.com/en/p/ALXL2541201

Or USA:

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ATML2541201

Rob
76 Royale Twin Beds, Dry Bath
Victoria, BC

[Scott Nutter]

Flex boot FB 3000 from Amazon worked for me.

--
Scott Nutter
1978 Royale Center Kitchen, Patterson 455, switch pitch tranny, 3.21 final drive, Quad bags, tankless water heater, everything Lenzi. Alex Ferrera
installed MSD Atomic EFI
Houston, Texas

[twll...@gmail.com]

Thanks lads, thinking this one might be alright, I like the fact it's silicone ..

what do you guys think?

https://www.amazon.ca/Replacement-Performance-Silicone-Flexible-Constant/dp/B07ZFB1N14/ref=pd_di_sccai_1?pd_rd_w=ishWk&pf_rd_p=e92f388e-b766-4f7f-aac1-ee1d0056e8fb&pf_rd_r=Z9SRFN94BTXHKT8NY3X6&pd_rd_r=c8e17879-e191-462b-9265-c5d4d49c8cb8&pd_rd_wg=qLal6&pd_rd_i=B07ZFB1N14&psc=1

[twll...@gmail.com]

OK I got the blue silicone boot, looks food so far for the upper CV joint.

OK here's the $64.00 question - when I separate the CV joint assembly from the upper column, do I undo the pinch bolt and slip it off the small
splines or do I undo the series of bolts around the top of the joint?

Also (this may not work) after reading tales of woe from other owners who have struggled to remove the blue splines from the lower U joint, it seems
to me that well greased components would have a great deal of suction happening that would prevent the blue spline from withdrawing. Now if the zirk
were removed before trying to separate the parts, air could enter through the now open grease port and relieve the suction effect.

TIA

[Len Len]

Where did you get a silicone boot? The boot, upper and lower I put on my
coach turned to dust. Dirtiest job I ever did.

--

*Len and Pat Novak*

*1978 GMC Kingsley*

*The Beast II with dash lights that work and labels you can see!*

*Las Vegas, NV* new email: B52s...@Gmail.com <B52...@Roadrunner.Com>

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showgallery.php?cat=4375



www.bdub.net/novak/

[Larry]

Hummm
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Monroe-63975-Strut-Mate-Boot-Kit/43971900
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Strut-Mate-Boot-Kit-63975-Fits-GM-Chevy-Buick-Olds-Pontiac-Mercedes-Benz-/184395288828
https://www.carparts.com/shock-and-strut-boot/mevotech/memp63975
https://www.zsnobbles.top/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=573229

--
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.

[twll...@gmail.com]

Len Novak wrote on Fri, 16 April 2021 20:17

> Where did you get a silicone boot? The boot, upper and lower I put on my
> coach turned to dust. Dirtiest job I ever did.

Amazon. Here ya go. Now how about telling me how to disassemble the damn thing?
https://
www.amazon.ca/Replacement-Performance-Silicone-Flexible-Constant/dp/B07ZFB1N14/ref=pd_di_sccai_1?pd_rd_w=ishWk&pf_rd_p=e92f388e-b766-4f7f-aac1-ee1
d0056e8fb&pf_rd_r=Z9SRFN94BTXHKT8NY3X6&pd_rd_r=c8e17879-e191-462b-9265-c5d4d49c8cb8&pd_rd_wg=qLal6&pd_rd_i=B07ZFB1N14&psc=1

[Len Len]

That was many years ago. I’ll look at it tomorrow and see what I can
remember. It was not that hard....but dirty, greasy, nasty, never again
kind of stuff.

On Fri, Apr 16, 2021 at 20:52 <twll...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Len Novak wrote on Fri, 16 April 2021 20:17
> > Where did you get a silicone boot? The boot, upper and lower I put on
> my
> > coach turned to dust. Dirtiest job I ever did.
>
> Amazon. Here ya go. Now how about telling me how to disassemble the damn
> thing?
> https://
>
> www.amazon.ca/Replacement-Performance-Silicone-Flexible-Constant/dp/B07ZFB1N14/ref=pd_di_sccai_1?pd_rd_w=ishWk&pf_rd_p=e92f388e-b766-4f7f-aac1-ee1
>
> d0056e8fb&pf_rd_r=Z9SRFN94BTXHKT8NY3X6&pd_rd_r=c8e17879-e191-462b-9265-c5d4d49c8cb8&pd_rd_wg=qLal6&pd_rd_i=B07ZFB1N14&psc=1

> <http://www.amazon.ca/Replacement-Performance-Silicone-Flexible-Constant/dp/B07ZFB1N14/ref=pd_di_sccai_1?pd_rd_w=ishWk&pf_rd_p=e92f388e-b766-4f7f-aac1-ee1d0056e8fb&pf_rd_r=Z9SRFN94BTXHKT8NY3X6&pd_rd_r=c8e17879-e191-462b-9265-c5d4d49c8cb8&pd_rd_wg=qLal6&pd_rd_i=B07ZFB1N14&psc=1>

>
> Larry
> --
> Larry - Victoria BC -
>
> 1977 Palm Beach VIN TZE167V101295 - 39,000 miles, PO said everything
> working but forgot the word NOT. New wiper blades, New SS exhaust system ..
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>

--

*Len and Pat Novak*

*1978 GMC Kingsley*

*The Beast II with dash lights that work and labels you can see!*

*Las Vegas, NV* new email: B52s...@Gmail.com <B52...@Roadrunner.Com>

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showgallery.php?cat=4375



www.bdub.net/novak/

[Scott Nutter]

I don’t know if it’s the best way, but it worked for me. Fell free to add better ideas. There is also a procedure in the manual.

1. Drive straight ahead to center the wheels. Take out ignition key to lock wheel.
2. Cut off old boot.
3. Clean off as much grease as possible.
4. But alignment marks on all parts to be removed.
5. Take out 6 bolts from the top plate.
6. Slide the splined shaft upward out of its housing.
DO NOT do anything to remove any of the blue coating on the shaft.
7. Pack the bearing with grease.
8. Install boot and band.
Reinstall in reverse order. Paying special attention to the alignment marks.

I went slow and cleaned everything. It took me about 45 minutes.
Scott

--
Scott Nutter
1978 Royale Center Kitchen, Patterson 455, switch pitch tranny, 3.21 final drive, Quad bags, tankless water heater, everything Lenzi. Alex Ferrera
installed MSD Atomic EFI
Houston, Texas

[twll...@gmail.com]

Thanks Scott!

Larry
--
Larry - Victoria BC -

1977 Palm Beach VIN TZE167V101295 - 39,000 miles, PO said everything working but forgot the word NOT. New wiper blades, New SS exhaust system ..

[Ken Henderson]

Pay special attention to that instruction to "4. P(B)ut alignment marks on
all parts to be removed." The upper CV, with its 6 bolts, has those 5
WRONG ways to go back together, making that reassembly one of the most
common ways of getting the steering box out of alignment. And the CV
housing is VERY hard -- I had to use a grinding wheel in a Dremel tool to
put permanent marks on mine (MANY years ago). I suggest installing a Zerk
fitting in the upper half while it's out so it can be kept greased for the
next 50 years.

The Blue Shaft, with its 4 possible positions is important too, but easier
to keep correct than the CV.

Ken H.

[Matt Colie]

Ken Henderson wrote on Sat, 17 April 2021 06:47
> Pay special attention to that instruction to "4. P(B)ut alignment marks on all parts to be moved." The upper CV, with its 6 bolts, has those 5

> WRONG ways to go back together, making that reassembly one of the most common ways of getting the steering box out of alignment. And the CV housing
> is VERY hard -- I had to use a grinding wheel in a Dremel tool to put permanent marks on mine (MANY years ago). I suggest installing a Zerk fitting
> in the upper half while it's out so it can be kept greased for the next 50 years.
>
> The Blue Shaft, with its 4 possible positions is important too, but easier to keep correct than the CV.
>
> Ken H.

You best believe what KenH writes (always), but this a time take it to heart if you have any doubt at all. This was one way my steering was messed
up. It took a whole day of trial and error (Try All and Error?) playing with the 60° and 90° combinations to get that correct. If you are so old
you had a mechanical drawing class along the way, you probably got to do the exercise where you use the two triangles to create so many different
angles... That was what this was like.

It was very easy to end up 15° off and then nothing works and you get to think through how you can move things from there to get where it needs to
be.

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit

[John R. Lebetski]

I avoid silicone parts for boots and hoses as poor tear resistance. Almost as much as I avoid urethane arm bushings for harshness.
--
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II

[twll...@gmail.com]

JohnL455 wrote on Sat, 17 April 2021 08:39

> I avoid silicone parts for boots and hoses as poor tear resistance. Almost as much as I avoid urethane arm bushings for harshness.

Oh well too late now. 8o :d

Larry
--
Larry - Victoria BC -

1977 Palm Beach VIN TZE167V101295 - 39,000 miles, PO said everything working but forgot the word NOT. New wiper blades, New SS exhaust system ..

[twll...@gmail.com]

Thanks Ken, I'll use a file for marking, old school and lack of power tools y'know/ :roll: :o :)

[Ken Henderson]

Maybe not too late: Did you measure the diameter of the steering column
CV? Looks to me like this CV Boots Joint Replacement Cover Performance
Silicone Rubber Flexible Constant Velocity Joint, 5 inch (125mm) Height
Blue, Fittings - Amazon Canada
<https://www.amazon.ca/Replacement-Performance-Silicone-Flexible-Constant/dp/B07ZFB1N14/ref=pd_di_sccai_1?pd_rd_w=ishWk&pf_rd_p=e92f388e-b766-4f7f-aac1-ee1d0056e8fb&pf_rd_r=Z9SRFN94BTXHKT8NY3X6&pd_rd_r=c8e17879-e191-462b-9265-c5d4d49c8cb8&pd_rd_wg=qLal6&pd_rd_i=B07ZFB1N14&psc=1>
is
probably about 2" too big! :-(

IIRC, I've always had to use boots from motorcycle shocks or similar to get
small enough diameters.

Ken H.

[James Hupy]

I used a two piece boot off a Offroad long travel Rancho shock for a jacked
up high performance offloaded. Don't remember the number, and did not write
it down. Years ago. Has lasted very well. I too used a dremel tool with a
cut off wheel to index those CV joint pieces. Bad stuff will happen if you
re-assemble it wrong. There a 5 x 4 = 20 wrong ways to reassemble it, and
only 1 correct one.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon

[Jim Kanomata]

We do not know everything, but we communicate with our counterparts that
work on the GMC MH and have a better idea of what parts work well.
We learn a lot at the International Convention when the presenters teach us
and I do some presentations and get feedback from the members.
Visit our web site and see what is available.

--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
ji...@appliedairfilters.com
http://www.gmcrvparts.com
1-800-752-7502

[Len Len]

I’m going to chime out.....lots of good and better advice than I can add.

--

*Len and Pat Novak*

*1978 GMC Kingsley*

*The Beast II with dash lights that work and labels you can see!*

*Las Vegas, NV* new email: B52s...@Gmail.com <B52...@Roadrunner.Com>

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showgallery.php?cat=4375



www.bdub.net/novak/

[Matt Colie]

Len Novak wrote on Sat, 17 April 2021 14:56

> I’m going to chime out.....lots of good and better advice than I can add.

Len,

The plan is that you read what goes by here and then pass that along to others at some later time.
Isn't this community awesome?

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit

[twll...@gmail.com]

Ok out at the coach, blue shaft came out easy boot will fit it can be cut.
The blue coating is damaged on one spline, is this a big deal?

[twll...@gmail.com]

Ok out at the coach, blue shaft came out easy boot will fit it can be cut.
The blue coating is damaged on one spline, is this a big deal?

[James Hupy]

Those shafts are coated with blue unobtainable coating. If you have slop in
that joint, choices are limited to good used off a donor coach, or there
used to be rebuilt ones available. Jim K. at Applied, or perhaps Jim
Bounds in Florida can help with that.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon

[Todd Sullivan]

If the shaft can move in and out easily and there is no slop I would not be
super concerned with some damage to the plastic coating. With all of the
coating missing it still will not skip.
My 2c

Sully
Bellevue wa

[twll...@gmail.com]

Thanks Sully, That's a relief to hear.

Having a ponder on the whole slop issue and reluctant shaft withdrawl scenarios, seemed to me that the main thing that keeps these things stuck is
good old suction from the grease. Like I said earlier, we figured if we gave it a couple of days ration of PB Blaster and removed the grease zerk,
then the vacuum formed by the grease could be broken. With the zerk removed, air could enter the shaft through the zerk hole and it should come out
with no struggle. We did exactly that and it slid out with two fingers.

Thinking about slop just now, seems to me that one way to try and fix any play in the sleeve/shaft is with the old epoxy and grease trick. I'm a big
fan of this technique, used it to repair stripped threads many a time. First I'd fix the blue coating with some JB weld, getting the shaft back to
spec. If, after that, there's still play in the sleeve, I'd clean out the sleeve and plug up any drain holes or grease nipple threads with grease.
With that all done, I'd give the blue shaft a good smear of grease and pour a bunch of epoxy into the sleeve and shove the shaft in and mop up any
extra gipe spilling out of the top. Let it sit for a couple of days and pull out the shaft checking it can move up and down. All good?

Bolt her up.

[Rob]

I personally can’t imagine a scenario where the suction from the grease could cause enough difference to keep the shaft from coming out. When mine came out - it was FROZEN solid. The shaft had to be driven out from the bottom.

Myself - I’d think carefully about fixing things that may not be issues. “Low hanging fruit” and “choosing your battles carefully”, etc... But, I’m reasonably happy with how my steering “feels” - you mentioned you weren’t quite so happy.

Rob
Victoria, BC
76 Royale - Rear Twins/Dry Bath

> On Apr 17, 2021, at 6:18 PM, twll...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> Thanks Sully, That's a relief to hear.

[Keith V]

Same here, mine required a press to get out, and that was after removing the bottom plug.
It had been without a boot for years im sure
________________________________
From: Rob <g...@thebaileys.ca>
Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2021 10:12:43 AM
To: gmc...@list.gmcnet.org <gmc...@list.gmcnet.org>
Subject: [GMCnet] Re: Steering upper rubber boot

[twll...@gmail.com]

Happy to report Amazon universal silicone boot is installed and fits rather well. Two top sections to be trimmed after fitting.

[Greg Crawford]

It's time for me to do this as well. Ken Henderson had commented previously that the upper CV assembly was very hard, and he used a dremel tool to
mark it with. Then he suggested installing a grease zerk in the upper assembly for ease of maintenance.

Ken, or anyone, do you have more specifics on drilling for the zerk as far as location and methods used?

Thank you.
--
Greg Crawford
KM4ZCR
Knoxville, TN

"Ruby Sue"
1977 Royale
Rear Bath
403 Engine
American Eagle Wheels
Early Version Alex Sirum Quad bags

[Ken Henderson]

Greg,

There are high "bumps" around the circumference of the upper half of the CV
joint. With the steering wheel in the straight-ahead position, mark the
upper most (easiest to access) of those sufficiently to enable you to
identify it after removing and disassembling the CV.

With just the upper 1/2 CV in hand, identify that marked,
most-easily-accessible, location. On the inside of the housing, identify a
"non-functional" area -- that's where you want to drill and install the
Zerk fitting from the outside.

This procedure should result in the Zerk being right where you want it to
be when you're greasing -- at the tops of the steering column pointed right
at you.

HTH,

Ken H.

On Fri, Oct 15, 2021 at 7:41 PM Greg Crawford <captgreg...@gmail.com>
wrote:

[Jim Kanomata]

Why don't you contact us as we carry all parts for the coach and Nick and I
will instruct you as to how to install.

On Fri, Oct 15, 2021 at 5:12 PM Ken Henderson <hend...@bellsouth.net>
wrote:

--
Jim Kanomata ASE

Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
ji...@appliedairfilters.com
http://www.gmcrvparts.com
1-800-752-7502

[Ken Henderson]

While trying to go back to sleep at 3AM, an old, perhaps important, memory
emerged from the depths of my old brain: Some years back we had a thread
here about the fact that water can enter the ball/race housing of the upper
steering CV joint. The steering column shaft opening in the top of the
joint extends all the way into the housing, allowing water to seep past the
shaft, into the cavity, and fomenting rust on the balls and races.

A recommendation was to seal the shaft with silicone. I chose a different
method: I had some 1/16" thick pliable plastic (Nylon?) from which I cut a
disc the diameter of the shaft's major diameter. Using a driver just under
the minor diameter of the shaft, I drove that disc into the bottom of the
shaft cavity. The splines in the housing cut into the disc, sealing the
bottom of the cavity. With that seal and the Zerk to keep the cavity
filled with grease I haven't had to open the CV during the past 12-15
years.

HTH,

Ken H.

On Fri, Oct 15, 2021 at 8:11 PM Ken Henderson <hend...@bellsouth.net>
wrote:

[James Hupy]

Ken, Oh, so many thank you's. I thought I was the only one that had
"mid-night" visits from the Mechanics Muse. Good to know that I'm not
completely nuts 😜! That seal information is very good. Someone out there
will very likely put your suggestion to good use. Thanks for sharing.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon

[Sandra Price]

We sold our GMC, but still have it "in our blood". I read Ken and Jim H's
emails about the steering shaft to Bob. While he is having trouble
expressing thoughts, he understood and knew about the issue and thinks your
solution was a good one, Ken. And he has those middle of the night sleep
breaks like both of you.

Sure miss those good times.

Sandra

[Ken Henderson]

Sandra,

Sure glad Bob (and you) can still "harmonize" with us. Sure wish we could
see Y'All, but since we can't, Best Regards to Him & Hugs to You. :-)

Ken

[Ken Henderson]

Jim,

Glad to hear there are more of us being haunted by GMC & Other Ghosts in
the middle of the night! Hopefully some good can come of it for those
"Young Whippersnappers" who're probably snoring away then. :-)

Ken

[Emery Stora via Gmclist]

Sandra & Bob

We still have great memories of the two of you at the GMCMI conventions. We had some super times. You both contributed your knowledge and energy to make sure everyone had a lot of fun.
I hope you both are continuing to have a good life in spite of the adversities you have encountered.
You both continue to be in our thoughts and in our prayers.

Emery and Michelle Stora

[Greg Crawford]

Thank you, Ken, for the information. I now know what I have to do.