[GMCnet] Headliner

[ron preston]

Hi all,
I'm replacing my headliner, and I want to find a source for the plastic
mouldings etc. I had bookmarked a source from this forum but
accidentally deleted it. Iwas thinking of replacing the cardboard/foam
backing with 1/4 bendable plywood. Any other suggestions? Also what
are you all using for additional insulation?
Thanks ,
Ron Preston 75 Glenbrook
San José
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[Cesar Carrasco]

I'd like to replace mine too. Any reply's?

On Mon, Sep 18, 2017 at 10:13 AM, ron preston <prestc...@gmail.com>
wrote:

[Sammy Williams]

One of "the Jims" i'd imagine. :)

On Mon, Sep 18, 2017 at 1:50 PM, Cesar Carrasco <c.carra...@gmail.com>
wrote:

[Shaun]

Most are using FRP or ABS with success for the main panels. ABS is more expensive, but easier to work with. You also won't have to worry about future
water damage with either.

You can reuse the transition strips if you remove them carefully. I washed and painted mine with Krylon to match the new white roof. For the conduit
covering on the side, the Panduit C3WH6 worked perfectly for me. You'll need 5 or 6 pieces to do the whole coach :)

Shaun
--
1977 Palm Beach, 455, mostly stock and original

[Adrien Genesoto]

Ron,
I used 3mm panels, sealed the top with 2 coats, 1 coat on bottom of varnish thinned 30%. Some use plastic shower panels, what ever material you use,
take a scrap piece and work the width needed (don't use the original panels, they're probably short by now), measure 3 times and cut once.

When installing the panels, 2 person is best to put the sides in then get something that's 30" or so wide
by the length of the panel, to push the panel center up, or you'll stand a chance of cracking it dew to
openings. The hardest panels to install for me was over the fridge/galley and the rear going into closet/shower (without braking).

If you use some upholstery material, use only DAP Weldwood HHR #70798 00095 contact glue (High Heat Resistant) look for at upholstery suppliers. Or
the material will come down in the heat of summer.

For insulation I used foam boards from HD or Lowes, 2 layers of 3/4" and can foam for glue. You must hold the pieces in place until the foam sets, the
expansion will dislodge the piece. About the OEM foam, I used a scraper to remove it. I feel that foam wasn't for insulation but more for sound
control. MacMaster-Carr sells spray foam in small containers size.

Need more, text or call.

ron preston wrote on Mon, 18 September 2017 10:13

--
”When we avoid the mistakes we might have made, we sometimes make the mistakes that we might have avoided.”

Adrien & Jenny Genesoto
75 Glenbrook 26-3
Yuba City,Ca. Text 530-nine-3-three-3-nine-nine-6

[Carl Stouffer]

My PO did the headliner this way:

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g3244-headliner-installation.html

It looks great and we really like it. Especially nice is that the center section is easily removable making it easier to add wiring for additional
lights, antennas etc.
--
Carl Stouffer
'75 ex Palm Beach
Tucson, AZ.
Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles,
Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member

[Dennis Sexton]

Ron

I'm using FRP panels from Lowes. They also sell a variety of trim strips that fit the FRP.

Dennis

ron preston wrote on Mon, 18 September 2017 12:13

--
Dennis S
73 Painted Desert 230
Memphis TN Metro

[Dennis Sexton]

Ron

Another source for trim - more for edges of wall panels around windows.

https://www.trimlok.com

Dennis

Dennis S wrote on Mon, 18 September 2017 17:12

[Jim Miller]

On Sep 18, 2017, at 1:13 PM, ron preston <prestc...@gmail.com> wrote:

> I'm replacing my headliner, and I want to find a source for the plastic mouldings etc. I had bookmarked a source from this forum but accidentally deleted it. Iwas thinking of replacing the cardboard/foam backing with 1/4 bendable plywood. Any other suggestions? Also what are you all using for additional insulation?

Here’s what I did with FRP and isocyanurate insulation board:

Ceiling Replacement <http://www.jcmco.com/gallery/album01>

—Jim

Jim Miller
1977 Eleganza
1977 Royale
Hamilton, OH

[Kingsley Coach]

Ron
I didn't read all the replies but I found 1/4 way too thick..try 1/8.

Mike in NS

--
Michael Beaton
1977 Kingsley 26-11
1977 Eleganza II 26-3
Antigonish, NS

Life is too short to hold a grudge; slash some tires and call it even !

[Billy Massey]

I done mine the way that Randy Van Winkle did his. Get the 3/16 or 1/4"
plastic corrugated signboard, cut it to fit the curvature so that it'll pop
into place. Use landau top contact cement to attach hull liner fabric.
Impervious to moisture and is sound dampening. Looks and performs great!

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Coroplast-48-in-x-96-in-x-0-157-in-White-Corrugated-Plastic-Sheet-CP4896S/205351385

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/281094382720?chn=ps&dispItem=1

http://www.sailrite.com/HullBlanket-Headliner-Hull-Liner-Carpet-Type-Ivory-M93-72?gclid=CjwKCAjw3f3NBRBPEiwAiiHxGPfCJktw-OL2LeCIMq4p67q1QKW2BlfCN11aWX-SBuoZmrwIh_rlmxoCk0AQAvD_BwE

https://www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-8-cfm-gravity-feed-spray-gun-67181.html

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/search.php?searchid=331109

bdub

> > On Sep 18, 2017, at 1:13 PM, ron preston <prestc...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > > I'm replacing my headliner, and I want to find a source for the
> > plastic mouldings etc. I had bookmarked a source from this forum but
> > accidentally deleted it. Iwas thinking of replacing the cardboard/foam
> > backing with 1/4 bendable plywood. Any other suggestions? Also what
> > are you all using for additional insulation?
>

[Peter Garry]

I used FRP (fibre reinforced plastic) and it worked very successfully. Wish I had kept the old panels as panels. One side had a “bubble” finish so I used the back (it was smooth) and painted it with krylon.
Its now smooth and hard. Sound deadening it is not. For the joints I made a shallow wood cove with a strip of LEDs hidden in it. The centre portion of the ceiling I sprayed with a texture, the idea being to have the LEDs in the cove shine out along the ceiling. Gives the appearance of ‘depth’. An old interior design trick. Anyway in spite of my lack of 'fitting skills’ it looks quite good.
For Insulation I left the old factory stuff in place and sprayed the space full with foam. Took some time to scrape the excess down, but it all got done.
Peter Garry
73 - 23ft
Calgary Alberta

[Cesar Carrasco]

Lets see some pics.....

[Billy Massey]

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/search.php?searchid=331185

On Tue, Sep 19, 2017 at 11:25 AM, Cesar Carrasco wrote:

> Lets see some pics.....

[Wayne Rogewski]

I used FRP from Depot or Lowes, It comes in polar white or off white. I used the while, and put the textured side facing out. This helps to break
up any irregularities or anything else you may see looking from one end to the other.
Its water proof so it wont stain, its easy to clean.
Provided its not frozen its easy to cut with tin snips or a fine tooth band saw if you have a helper.

Use the old panels which come out as your templates for the new panels That will save you many hours of adjustments. The aluminum channels on the
edges will actually hold the sheet in place and provided you cut them correctly they will bow up and basically hold themselves up long enough to put a
pop rivet or two in them.

I used V 47 Cap and Retainer from Nuddo Company as recommended by another GMCer. It worked awesome. Put the retainer in, pop rivet in a few spaces
and then once two panels are butted together you put the snap the cap on top of it. Nice clean look, covers all the rivets and holds everything tight.
Nice stuff and it matches the color.

As long as you like white, there is no need for glue, paint etc. and Yes, this can be a one person job with some patience. Lastly. Start at the
rear of the coach with the new panels and work forward to the cap. If the cap has yellowed, Krylon White Fusion is a perfect match.

Its a rewarding job once its done.
--
77 Royale, Rear Dry Bath. 403, 3.55 Final Drive, Lenzi goodies, Patterson carb and dizzy.
Mid Michigan

[Justin Brady]

Mines a little different.
I used aluminum. Like the kind used to skin enclosed trailers. I didn't like the textured side of frp and the non textured side is not flat or even at
all would have driven me crazy haha.




--
Justin Brady
http://www.thegmcrv.com/
1976 Palm Beach 455

[Cesar Carrasco]

Justin, do you have pics?

[Justin Brady]

Cesar,
I always forget to post them in non forum format as well as img tags. My apologies!

http://www.thegmcrv.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/wp-1464481165203.jpg

http://www.thegmcrv.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/IMG_20170713_081652.jpg

[ron preston]

Thanks to all for the headliner suggestions, guess I'll go to HD first to
see whats available. Would like to incorporate some LED lights if possible.
I'm going to glue a foam backed fabric to the substrate as I want as
much noise and thermal insulation as possible. (And thats what the wife
wants). Thanks Cesar for the glue suggestion. Getting the stuff to lay on
with no wrinkles may be a challenge.
Ron Preston
75 Glenbrook
San jose

[Ken Henderson]

Ron,

When I put the headliner in my X-Birchaven in '98, I used "duct board"
(Masonite coated on one side with white Melamine, making it totally
impervious to water) for the substrate, white site up. I installed all of
the panels in my gutted coach, by cutting them to length and width and
popping them into place as others have suggested. Only a few pop rivets
were necessary to secure them to the ribs. Rather than use trim strips at
the joints, I glued a single piece of polypropylene Indoor-Outdoor carpet
to the panels, covering the seams. The I-O carpet is like "hull liner" but
2-3 times as thick -- it was cheap since my BIL is in that business.

To mount the carpet I built a "dead man" consisting of a single 2x4 beam
down the middle of the coach supported by vertical stanchions. I hung the
carpet over the beam, then sprayed high temperature contact cement on the
panels and the back of the carpet in end-to-end stripes, adhering the
carpet as the cement set. Working side-to-side, the carpet went into place
quite easily -- much more so than one would expect. It's still there 19
years later and looks almost as good as the day it was finished. I like
the seamless ceiling from the front cap to the rear cap.

The I-O carpet is impervious to almost everything -- I could clean spots
with lacquer thinner if necessary. I could have chosen a better color than
the light grey, but we still like it. A couple of small "bubbles" have
developed over the years. Tiny cuts hidden in the pattern of the carpet
admitted a spray nozzle and cement to fix those quickly and easily. The
biggest problem is that it would be impossible to do any repair,
replacement, or modification in the ceiling without cutting the carpet and
then installing trim strips. Since all of my panels extend side rail to
side rail, I'd never attempt such anyway.



Ken H.

On Tue, Sep 19, 2017 at 9:27 PM, ron preston <prestc...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Thanks to all for the headliner suggestions, guess I'll go to HD first to
> see whats available. Would like to incorporate some LED lights if possible.
> I'm going to glue a foam backed fabric to the substrate as I want as
> much noise and thermal insulation as possible. (And thats what the wife
> wants). Thanks Cesar for the glue suggestion. Getting the stuff to lay on
> with no wrinkles may be a challenge.
>

[Larry]

Here its what I used:

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g4446-new-ceilings-or-headliner.html

Adds R3 insulation.
--
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.

[Larry]

Glued this
http://www.sailrite.com/HullBlanket-Headliner-Hull-Liner-Carpet-Type-Sand-M38-72

to this:

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g4446-new-ceilings-or-headliner.html

--
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.

[My New Email]

Wow that looks better than I imagined. Thanks!

Sent from my iPhone

[Johnny Bridges via Gmclist]

Jason, that's really good looking. Does the solid surface echo noise badly?

As an aside, are the spices going to stay in the rack when some poot cuts in front of you anf you have to light the tires to keep fropm hitting
him>?:)

--johnny
--
76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
"I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased

[Keith V]

I have that in my coach, but the gray version.

It's very nice I'd use it again

________________________________
From: Gmclist <gmclist...@list.gmcnet.org> on behalf of Larry <weid...@wwt.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2017 9:29:06 PM
To: gmc...@list.gmcnet.org
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Headliner

[Wayne Rogewski]

Regardless of what you use for the headliner, this may be a good option to consider.

Rmax Plus-1 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft. Polyisocyanurate Rigid Foam Insulation Board

I put this with the foil facing out and put the FRP over it. This is pretty easy to cut, and fit into all the rectangles of the ceiling supports.
You will probably need to shave off some of the original spray foam, but as you will find out that was by no means a perfect covering job when
originally applied. Its a bit more work but its worth it. I would not remove all the original foam up there, but just enough to slide the insulation
panels up there. Then go over all the seams with Aluminum Duct tape. Thats normally found in the instillation section pretty close. 7 bucks or so a
roll. This helps to seal up drafts and as a bonus what ever ceiling panel you go with will not have open cavities behind it.

I have found it keeps the coach a bit cooler when in the sun, and probably helps with some noise.

--
77 Royale, Rear Dry Bath. 403, 3.55 Final Drive, Lenzi goodies, Patterson carb and dizzy.
Mid Michigan

[Justin Brady]

Johnny,
Thanks.
The noise is not an issue, very little road noise thanks to being very well insulated on all 4 sides. Not noticeable at all when speaking or listening
to music in the coach. I was mildly concerned after reading so much emphasis here on sound absorbing material for the headliner. IMHO all that talk is
bologna as it doesn't get flatter or smoother than aluminum and my coach sounds like a caddy inside. There is absolutely zero tincan feel or sound. I
obviously can't comment on how it would work in a stock coach. Mine was gutted and re-insulated with spray foam in every single nook and cranny.

The spices are actually inset into their own individual CNC cut holders by 1.25" (not just sitting behind a board) so they aren't going anywhere!

--
Justin Brady
http://www.thegmcrv.com/
1976 Palm Beach 455

[Johnny Bridges via Gmclist]

Oh OK. The concern is reflection of existing noise off a hard surface. If there's no noise there can be no reflection :) And curved is way better
than flat.

--johnny
--
76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
"I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased