THANKS

[Cameron]

I am sure I will still have questions and I am googling around now to see what I still need to do but I finally got everything installed yesterday and test fired the system!  with a fairly low level of confidence after checking and rechecking my work (and a couple of different serial to usb drivers and testing different COM ports for the WUD) I turned the key and she fired right up!

special thanks to Bill, Bruce, Jon, James, and George for all the advice and product suggestions and of course to Randy for a terrific document to help keep me pointed in the right direction.

Thanks again - now I have to get back to work and figure out;

1. why is it idling so fast - vacuum leak?

2. what should I use for an air cleaner and will my engine cover still fit?

3. test the backup fuel pump

4. take it for a test ride!

Cameron

[Bill Van Vlack]

Cameron...

  1. The IAC controls the idle speed, based primarily on the IAC - Idle Speed: Park/Neutral table in TunerPro. A vacuum leak will not allow the IAC to do its work. I'm guessing the IAC is at zero steps. I had a leak and ended up replacing the thin gasket that came with an adapter plate with one I made from thicker gasket material. Take a datalog from a cold start and you can play it back to analyze.

 2. I used a Jeep horn and a 3" hose to a remote cone air filter near the grille.

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "GMCMH EFI" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to gmcmh-efi+...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/CAMM5Unigi%3DV4%3DWWrdH1H5D7wWdxmyH038Pqj%3Dj40p98sLrp4bA%40mail.gmail.com.

[Cameron]

thanks!

the TBI came with an instruction that says to 

1. remove the IAC connection

2. use the screw on the front of the TBIto adjust the base idle speed without the IAC operational.

(assuming I dont have a vacuum leak..)

have you tried this?

Cameron

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/CA%2BX-fMfYDOp79Fp-cqQoeudkqQofUqiw2h9pMSwpTwYWUyptUQ%40mail.gmail.com.

[MICHAEL ORLANDI]

That is so wrong!

Jumper A to B on Aldo turn ignition on and disconnect ISC connector . Now start and warm engine up, you will need to keep the engine running using the throttle . When warmed up set TPS to .5 volt. Start up and set base idle speed on throttle body. Turn engine off and install connector for ISC. Start And run engine. Check for any codes that my have been set ,clear if set. Idle speed should now be computer controlled. Note TPS voltage will affect idle speed, as well as engine temperature. Cold engine = high idle. 

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 13, 2023, at 8:47 AM, Cameron <cbi...@gmail.com> wrote:



To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/CAMM5Uni7oF914zx8hguWXGrpT%3DukV7mZ0fO1q-bM-MbpxspAOQ%40mail.gmail.com.

[BruceHislop]

Since Cameron is running the EBL, this is how RobR (the inventor of the EBL) says how to set the idle.  Remember, the EBL only uses the GM 7747 as an interface to the sensors and injectors, it does not run the GM software anymore it runs RobR's software.

-Set your desired target idle RPM vs engine temperature in Tunerpro and load that BIN into the EBL.
-with the engine at operating temperature, start the WUD and note the IAC counts.
-using the idle speed adjust screw, adjust the screw until the IAC counts are ~5 to 10 on the WUD.  The IAC will move to maintain your desired idle speed.
   -The lower the IAC counts while not going to zero, the better as more air is moving over the butterflies to pickup fuel.
-Then goto the DIAG screen and look at the TPS reading.  You want to see 0.3 to 0.5 volts to be sure the TPS pickup is off ground.  If not, adjust the TPS sensor for this range with the throttle closed.
-Shut off the engine, wait 10 seconds and restart to be sure the IAC counts are within range.

The EBL looks at the TPS reading and unless its over ~4 volts (flood clear mode), it assumes the throttle is at idle and uses that setting as the idle point. Unlike the GM ECM software, the EBL does not require at set TPS voltage.

From a cold start, the EBL will control the AFR and idle speed based on engine temperature and the tables you set up in the BIN.

Bruce Hislop

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/E9DC78A7-055A-41F1-B22D-EF82EC496D54%40sbcglobal.net.

[Cameron]

thanks Michael, trying to follow along here, but you lost me on a couple points.  pls excuse any ignorant questions.

what does the ALDL connector have to do with the idle??  I thought it was just for reading engine diagnostics (and I am using WUD for that).

I dont recognize your ISC acronym.  it isnt on the Acronyms and Abbreviations (dynamicefi.com) page I have been using.

thanks

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/E9DC78A7-055A-41F1-B22D-EF82EC496D54%40sbcglobal.net.

[BruceHislop]

Cameron,
Michael gave you the instructions for the original GM 7747 ECM as Howell used.  You have an EBL which replaced the "brains" of the ECM with more modern and user friendly "brains".

I just sent you the instructions I got from RobR, the inventor of the EBL.  The EBL's What's up display gives you all the info you need and much more than the old ALDL connector.

Bruce Hislop

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/CAMM5UngUgC%2B%3DEfT0-1FxihJG0C0gSx9AKYsP7vbdRGJaoeijrA%40mail.gmail.com.

[MICHAEL ORLANDI]

Jumping the ALDL it’s puts the system in a fixed position, it will seat the ISC. Then idle speed can be adjusted. This is the way it is set by GM.

Get Outlook for iOS

---

From: gmcm...@googlegroups.com <gmcm...@googlegroups.com> on behalf of Cameron <cbi...@gmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 13, 2023 9:42:59 AM
To: gmcm...@googlegroups.com <gmcm...@googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: [GMCMH-EFI] THANKS

 

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/CAMM5UngUgC%2B%3DEfT0-1FxihJG0C0gSx9AKYsP7vbdRGJaoeijrA%40mail.gmail.com.

[Cameron]

Hey Bill,

if you have a part number or image of your air cleaner it would be appreciated!

On Sun, Aug 13, 2023 at 8:23 AM Bill Van Vlack <bill.va...@gmail.com> wrote:

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/CA%2BX-fMfYDOp79Fp-cqQoeudkqQofUqiw2h9pMSwpTwYWUyptUQ%40mail.gmail.com.

[Cameron]

Bruce,

how is the WUD getting Park/Neutral vs Drive signal?  my selector has be broken for some time and I havent worried about it.  I know what gear it is in.  is fixing this selector something I need to prioritize?

thanks!

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/dd089e5c-faa2-0f4c-18c1-8a1ad4e50c50%40gmail.com.

[BruceHislop]

Cameron,
Here is a photo of my Jeep snorkel. At first I used a dryer flexible ducting. But that stuff will unravel very easily.  So now I have PVC piping which is  smooth and I think flows air better.

The green piece under the snorkel is a piece of PVC pipe to raise the snorkel to clear the injectors and also hold the intake air temperature sensor.  This spacer is also needed to allow the air to make the 90 degree turn into the throttle body.

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g7008-efi.html

Bruce Hislop

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/CAMM5Unhxa%2BUSjL7-rGD1Xiw4zajKChNsnNObBsBW3PYovqigLQ%40mail.gmail.com.

[James Hupy]

This is what I do on initial setup. I bolt the throttle body down making sure the gasket I have covers all the places on the Adapter Plate where leaks can occur. There is more than one adapter out there.  Be sure to match up with the bottom of the TBI. Then, I use a .007" ribbon feeler gage and pur it down the throttle bore between the front of the TBI and the throttle plate. It should hace a 1 pound pull or so. If it is too tight, adjust the idle stop screw to allow more space. If it is too loose, adjust until you have 1 pound pull on the gage. This should produce a 750 rpm idle speed with no computer influence. Then, from that point follow RobR's instructions if any adjustments are necessary.

Just what I do.

Jim Hupy

Salem, Oregon

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/CAMM5Unj-s9PJ1Z4y8Fxd3TndZPB43mu%3D2fsUtRy%3DBLFMBF8d2w%40mail.gmail.com.

[Cameron]

here's where I am at.

inputs;

1. I am using the "RV revised Applied BIN.bin"

2. I honestly do not know with any level of precision the actual timing of the engine.  I can not fathom any way of getting a timing light on the front of that engine - suggestions welcomed.

3. tuner pro says my idle should be ~750 on a warm engine.

4. I just used the feeler gauge method to get to a starting point

reality;

1. with the feeler gauge setting, engine idles ~1200

2. I can bring the idle down to ~1000 by changing the idle screw

3. putting any load on the engine (putting into drive) will kill it.

4. cold start works great, but with the engine warm, it is a really hard start (batteries are fine).

thanks again for all the advice!

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/CALxoeyuOrDXSE3xrxBREW3MxTD08bS97ChLS_FTyvLhH_WYQ4g%40mail.gmail.com.

[Bill Van Vlack]

Here is the Temp/RPM table from the RV revised Applied BIN: You can see that at 104C, idle speed should be 650. The Idle Speed: Drive is the same, so sensing the trans position is not needed.

I marked the timing grooves with white-out, and the pointer if I recall, then pulled the hatch back about four inches or so and laid down on it, then pointed the light down.

How many IAC steps did you have at 1100 RPM?

Take Datalogs.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/CAMM5Uni92hpgFVsyLjofRHy1GK06i%2B60mxrkeLjTDmUBgzASRQ%40mail.gmail.com.

[Jon Roche]

Cameron-

An adjustable timing light is your best friend with the gmc.     Get top dead center on engine and mark the pully well.   and use the adjustable timing light to do your timing.  (Set at 8 degrees on the timing light and adjust timing to the zero mark on engine and it will be at 8 degrees).   So you van see that spot barely looking down front of engine.   It is very hard to see a few degrees off from the zero mark.   So by using an adjustable timing light all you need to worry about is seeing that zero degree mark.  

Also keep the timing light handy..  it is one of those must have tools.   If you ever have a no-start issue the quickest/fastest way is to hook up the timing light quick.   No pulling spark plugs.  No busting plug wires.  

On Aug 13, 2023, at 1:08 PM, Cameron <cbi...@gmail.com> wrote:



To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/CAMM5Uni92hpgFVsyLjofRHy1GK06i%2B60mxrkeLjTDmUBgzASRQ%40mail.gmail.com.

[Cameron]

something is clearly wrong with some portion of a sensor since the air temp is WAY off (it is currently about 72 here) and the CNT's are really high.  did I hook something up wrong?

and now, a very silly question.  how do you export the data log?  I started one.  I can replay it in WUD, but when I go to the folder where it is supposed to be it isnt there..

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/CA%2BX-fMcake1V%2BwWoa4NteMc4x1YiXy9zFxpnRKDdOp6HRLZ57Q%40mail.gmail.com.

[Cameron]

I swear, you guys are amazing.  I would have bet good money that timing mark wasnt visible I looked from (apparently almost) every angle and couldnt see it.  but, put a 2x4 across the engine opening and kneeling on that, I can see it!  so, waiting for my dad to finish his lunch to show me how to use a timing light..  (yes, another item in my education).

thanks again.

[weidnerl]

I wired my timing light so that it can plug in to the cigarette lighter. Just gotta be careful that the wires don't get down into the fan.

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

-------- Original message --------

From: Jon Roche <lqqk...@gmail.com>

Date: 8/13/23 1:47 PM (GMT-06:00)

To: gmcm...@googlegroups.com

Subject: Re: [GMCMH-EFI] THANKS

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/28ADFBB9-3731-4304-8844-00AB47828FC0%40gmail.com.

[Bill Van Vlack]

If the connector was provided with the harness, it's hard to see how it could be wired wrong. Bad sensor?

Maybe do a search for .dat files?

You can go to 'Display', then 'Analysis' and load the log to see it. Then 'Dump' to  a.csv file that you . Check both boxes so that you don't get headers for each page. If you like graphs, I can set you up with WinLogView.

On Sun, Aug 13, 2023 at 11:53 AM Cameron <cbi...@gmail.com> wrote:

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/CAMM5Unji-zLLZ3U5wkam%2BkNY9n0bL5npgP%3DFUfJ0faDYZC1tXQ%40mail.gmail.com.

[MICHAEL ORLANDI]

-40’ is an open in the circuit. KOEO remove sensor and jump across harness side and it should show something over 250’ . If it doesn’t change it is probably a wire issue. If it doesn’t show as expected it is  a resistance problem or ECM problem.

Get Outlook for iOS

---

From: gmcm...@googlegroups.com <gmcm...@googlegroups.com> on behalf of Bill Van Vlack <bill.va...@gmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 13, 2023 12:15:46 PM
To: gmcm...@googlegroups.com <gmcm...@googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: [GMCMH-EFI] THANKS

 

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/CA%2BX-fMee5yqmSKeyDBaqLFm5byWY_9r_d4huY%2BYKzHJ2mDmM6w%40mail.gmail.com.

[Cameron]

ok, here is a stumper.

timing light doesnt work.  tested on a different vehicle, works fine (actually tested 2 different timing lights).  swap'd the spark plug wire to #1 in case there was something wrong with my spark plug wires.  

is some 'special' timing light needed for this new distributor?  this is a MSD "Timing Pro".

thanks!

[MICHAEL ORLANDI]

So you are not using a computer controlled HEI distributor with EBL?

Get Outlook for iOS

---

From: gmcm...@googlegroups.com <gmcm...@googlegroups.com> on behalf of Cameron <cbi...@gmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 13, 2023 1:35:43 PM

To: gmcm...@googlegroups.com <gmcm...@googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: [GMCMH-EFI] THANKS

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/CAMM5UnjvcbEUPqnOKngt7RCn-4simNDcE3MOyqjOzQ2Rvz1Q6w%40mail.gmail.com.

[Cameron]

ok, well, not sure why, but was able to solve that issue.  my dad's suggestion was to put a spark plug on a wire to #1 on the distributor, but just ground it to the engine.  yeah, it misses, but it runs, and for some reason it runs the timing light.  so, one more checkmark, the timing is set.

here is a record of the engine after setting the timing.  idling pretty nice at ~900, cant really get it to go any lower.  

any suggestions on the IAT?  is that a computer thing (dynamic) or TBI / harness thing (affordable efi)?  I am assuming "something" needs to be replaced..  not really possible to plug it in wrong..

thanks!

Cameron

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/SN6PR10MB2861577B8677221155323B8CA716A%40SN6PR10MB2861.namprd10.prod.outlook.com.

[Dick Paterson]

Cameron ----now that you have the initial timing set correctly  with that dist position ---take a straight edge length of  wooden slat like a  school    ruler or paint stir stick   and place it in between the terminal tower  posts  on the dist cap…   .slide it back to touch the firewall—(make a note on which  dist  terminal cap posts you placed it between   ---phone pic)  ….-and put a mark  where it touches the firewall .

This now becomes your easily “visible” timing tab ,     no need to hang over the fan to see the  oem tab .   regards  dick

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/CAMM5UnhTfBUXP_NzhNQ4fThzvZmH-vrGp0F9pWA1wNQerkNx_g%40mail.gmail.com.

[Bill Van Vlack]

Cameron...  Can't get much better advice than that from DIck....

Here's your datalog, a minute or so of data, plotted with WinLogView. The IAC is the blue line at 30% y-axis. It's at zero, so it can't control idle; it's trying to remove air and squeezed off as much as it  can. Close the throttle until the IAC is 8 or above. I had the most success by adjusting it, then IGN OFF/wait 5 seconds/IGN ON and restart. See if it's still where you left it.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/007801d9ce33%24387b7810%24a9726830%24%40paterson-gmc.com.

[Cameron]

bill, so you dont think there is anything wrong with the tbi or sensor?  why does the IAT show -40 degrees?  with the CNT at 255?  or is that reading unimportant?

what does this reading show on WUD for IAC?

sure seems different that win log.

thanks!

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/CA%2BX-fMdPb9ouX8ZJHQ9AkVaqiwcE1V2gUY1H5C3gVce%2B0yWgWQ%40mail.gmail.com.

[Bill Van Vlack]

The WinLogView plot data is taken from the .csv file. Here's what the datalog looks like in EBL; (this is 3 seconds of data, but these numbers stay more or less the same throughout the one minute datalog: Note O2MV - slightly lean. WB AFR the same. Below that is a screenshot from a playback of the datalog you posted. It agrees with this datalog and my WinLogView plot. I don't know what was happening when you took the IAC and IAT screenshots above..

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/CAMM5Uniqhd_%2BCva3FRmkL46iqg%2Bm9kVX_cKbQ%2BVJi6NZM6ZaMg%40mail.gmail.com.

[Cameron]

ok, I replayed the log in WUD and see the IAC at 0.  sorry, the screen shot I sent was after the engine was off, I saw your post and went to see what was currently displayed in the WUD.  apparently not accurate.

so I understand; your guidance is to continue to close down the idle screw until the IAC registers "something" (preferably 8 or above)?

also, does my CNT reading mean anything?  just trying to figure out what I should be tuning and what I can discard..

thanks!

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/CA%2BX-fMcgL4ky4AGj1WB67TO46jgti4a6dyngvqZVToCZ8LtzyA%40mail.gmail.com.

[Bill Van Vlack]

The 'CNT' is the IAT register count. The datalog shows 104F for IAT and that's probably close, depending where it's located. I don't know why the diagnostic screen shows 255, -40C. Ask DynamicEFI, perhaps,

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/CAMM5Unh-SwKNbm69OZZpXVJtDXe5S7bfA6nF77rcUDZrDJffDw%40mail.gmail.com.

[MICHAEL ORLANDI]

CNT is under knock sensor counts.

How are you achieving timing control with your distributor?

Get Outlook for iOS

---

From: gmcm...@googlegroups.com <gmcm...@googlegroups.com> on behalf of Bill Van Vlack <bill.va...@gmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 13, 2023 7:19:57 PM

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/CA%2BX-fMfE%3DmMniLTZDfee6BDoR0sY2MUjk1RP6d4zDnED_%3Din3A%40mail.gmail.com.

[Bill Van Vlack]

Not these CNTs...

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/SN6PR10MB2861F7E63162AEDB65E3221DA717A%40SN6PR10MB2861.namprd10.prod.outlook.com.

[Cameron]

sorry, then I dont know what "CNT"s I am looking for.  on the WUD screen, the only CNT is for Knock counts.  in the diag sceen I have CNT's for O2, MAP, CTS and IAT (not working).

thanks!

I exchanged an email with Bob.  he says the 104 degrees is a default if there is no IAT sensor.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/CA%2BX-fMcjEjQKEHdb%2BLa7VcpOUeg0fw_R5U5zGwoZMPZ3eYGORg%40mail.gmail.com.

[Bill Van Vlack]

Here is the internal circuitry for the ECM. It looks like MAT and CTS have the same input conditioning so you could connect the Coolant sensor to the MAT terminals and see if it reports something other than 104. If so, replace the sensor. (Does this make sense, Bruce?).

 

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/CAMM5UnguWrJKU9qLao6xH1mawOpJh89qxjtHZ5g7eEbNEpZEbQ%40mail.gmail.com.

[Cameron]

I just dont think I have a MAT sensor at all.  the note I got from AFI was;

"There is no reading for an iat sensor because there is no iat sensor. Do not worry about this parameter. ECMS of the type you have do not have the potential to receive input from an iat sensor but your scan tool has the ability to detect one should one be utilized in further developed tech."

Cameron

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/CA%2BX-fMdPASq1bTY%3DfcRx-SgZ2TeskyzKtp%3D2mpPD2WOya3Dzuw%40mail.gmail.com.

[Bill Van Vlack]

Sorry about that; disregard anything about a MAT sensor. If you have the EBL, then it can accept an IAT temperature sensor. If Affordable's harness doesn't include it, the you can add one, wired to pin C12'. Here's the connection diagram for the Flash II from DynamicEFI;s site.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/CAMM5Unj8iZOYoV5WLjCm5%2BD0uxNFWDS6J2nqzibrsmpWHaE7iw%40mail.gmail.com.

[George Beckman]

Bill, Looking at the snapshot of your WUD, I am concerned about the IAC steps. It is at zero. The air/fuel is acceptable, but I would like to see the IAC in the teens. IAC will open the pintle at shutdown/startup quite a bit to add air to get the engine up to speed. IAC is your idle adjustment. The RPMs are 950, and probably won’t go lower, because the IAC has done all it can do—shut off all air The solution is NOT to adjust the throttle place with a screwdriver! I don’t have a Windows computer with me, but the tab that shows cross counts, IAC, etc. is worth looking at. The trick is to adjust your TPS so the IAC is at about .6 volts and the steps are in the 14-17±. I would doubt that your throttle plate would need to be adjusted. I am thinking the TPS is out of adjustment, because the throttle is showing 0. I don’t know about the other guys, but I can rarely get a zero, with the cable drag, etc. (Chime in fellows)

I am attaching a very old writeup on this adjustment. If you ever wonder why EBL is so great, you will see the gymnastics we had to go through to do this, even using a paperclip. You can use the WUD Tab showing the IAC to see the voltage. 0.6 volts is sweet. 5 or 7 is possibly OK, if the steps are in the teens. Note the writeup says we don’t want that IAC at zero as the stepper motor is burying the pintle into the seat.

.

[Cameron]

thanks George, I am concerned about that too!  I have take 2 datalogs while trying to get the idle down to where is suggested (~750) and have yet to see any steps on the IAC.  the TPS is likely at 0 since I have been backing it out trying to get the idle down.

it's possible I have a vacuum leak under the TBI or adapter plate which is giving the engine air outside the IAC and thus keeping the idle hard to lower.  I will take a look at your writeup on the adjustment, thanks!

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "GMCMH EFI" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to gmcmh-efi+...@googlegroups.com.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/750428C8-80B8-4535-87C9-C71834E26FF5%40graestone.org.

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "GMCMH EFI" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to gmcmh-efi+...@googlegroups.com.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/750428C8-80B8-4535-87C9-C71834E26FF5%40graestone.org.

On Aug 13, 2023, at 5:22 PM, Bill Van Vlack <bill.va...@gmail.com> wrote:

 

---------

Best Wishes,

George
gbec...@graestone.org

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "GMCMH EFI" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to gmcmh-efi+...@googlegroups.com.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/750428C8-80B8-4535-87C9-C71834E26FF5%40graestone.org.

[James Hupy]

Just soray some wd-40 around the area of suspected vacuum leaks with the engine running. Any change in rpm means you have found your leak source.

Jim Hupy

Salem, Oregon

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/CAMM5Unim0v6Z8SvGT4upriEgYXEfhoXHvhHjfm3Oj-g3krmhQg%40mail.gmail.com.

[James Hupy]

Spray.

[BruceHislop]

Cameron,

Make sure you have the proper gasket between the intake manifold and the TBI adapter.  As you can see in the attached photos below (photos courtesy of Richard Waters), the gasket Howell provided in their kit has two large gaps which would allow a large vacuum leak and cause the problems you are having with idle.  Some have addressed this with copious amounts of RTV, but that is a poor solution in my opinion. I also got the same gasket in my kit which I purchased years after Richard's install.

Note the better design gasket which seals properly in the second photo.  Sorry I don't have a part number. 

With the problems you are having, I would check this gasket to be sure it does not have this design flaw.

I'd also like to clarify George's email.  The Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) outputs a voltage back to the ECM (EBL) based on the position of the throttle. On the DIAG screen of the WUD, it shows the current TPS voltage, which the EBL converts to Counts (CNT's a number between 0 and 255) for its own internal use. The EBL looks at the TPS position when you turn the key ON and assumes that is the idle position which it displays on the WUD bar graph as 0% (the bar graph is a percentage scale, not an absolute voltage or Counts).  You want the TPS to return a voltage just above ground at closed throttle (say 0.5V) so the EBL knows the TPS is working. If the TPS is at ground or +5 volts it will return an error as these two readings are outside of normal operating range, so it assumes a fault.

The Idle Air Control (IAC) is an output from the EBL and shows the position on the WUD in terms of it's internal Counter (again 0-255).  The IAC is not a voltage but a position number.  The IAC moves in steps, each Count being a step. The EBL initially has no idea where the IAC actually is, so on shut-down of the engine, the EBL commands the IAC to move either full open or closed (I can't remember which, but I believe it moves closed). The IAC will hit the end of its travel and stall there till the Counter hits Zero, then the EBL knows the IAC is closed and is at position zero.  The EBL then commands the IAC to Open a set number of steps so it is ready for the next startup.

I've attached a couple of WUD screen captures.  One is start up of a cold engine.  You can is the coolant temperature (CTS) is the same as the Intake air temperature (IAT) and the associated sensor readings. At this point the IAC is at 56 steps at 950RPM

The second is from a warm engine so you can see the CTS is higher and the IAT is cooler (opened shop door in April).  The IAC is now at 16 steps at 750RPM.

Note my TPS is 0.8 to 0.9V at idle.  A bit high, but the EBL is happy and says 0% on the WUD.

Bruce Hislop

[Cameron]

thanks for that instruction.  I was wondering the easiest way to find a leak and that thought/method had not crossed my mind.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/CALxoeytwmw7iayZExxS2Q7ce9vQHZSEq5RDMuQBhPTMD_O1_Qg%40mail.gmail.com.

[Bill Van Vlack]

George,

 The WUD I showed earlier was from Cameron's data log.

You stated... 

adjust your TPS so the IAC is at about .6 volts and the steps are in the 14-17±.

I think you meant the TPS voltage is .6 and the IAC is 14-17?

Does this sound like a reasonable procedure?.

  Set the throttle screw so that there's 7 thousandths gap, throttle plate to throat as Jim Hupy recommends.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/CALxoeytwmw7iayZExxS2Q7ce9vQHZSEq5RDMuQBhPTMD_O1_Qg%40mail.gmail.com.

[Bill Van Vlack]

George,

   Pushed the wrong button and sent the last email before it was baked. Here it is again, in its beautiful entirety.......

 The WUD I showed earlier was from Cameron's data log.

You stated... 

adjust your TPS so the IAC is at about .6 volts and the steps are in the 14-17±.

I think you meant the TPS voltage is .6 and the IAC is 14-17?

Does this sound like a reasonable procedure?..

  Set the throttle screw so that there's 7 thousandths gap, throttle plate to throat as Jim Hupy recommends.

  Adjust the TPS for .6 volts and 14-17 IAC steps at warm idle

I assume the TPS has an elongated fastening hole for adjustment?

If I can't get around .6V and 14-17 steps, should I then try adjusting the throttle screw a little?

Bill

[Cameron]

Bruce,

this is very helpful, thanks.  I unfortunately dont remember what my gasket looks like now (been a couple weeks).  I will try the trick of spraying wd40 around the TBI and see if idle changes to determine if I have a leak there.  then I will try the method to reset the IAC and set the idle below the table and plugging it back in.  hopefully at some point I will see some movement on the IAC steps.

Cameron

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/a3195395-c388-27d8-e05e-daccca76c1f5%40gmail.com.

[Cameron]

Question please.

the attached document here (which explains the procedure nicely, more completely, and more importantly - for me - the reason to perform it) is similar to others that mention the need to reset the system via the ALDL connector.  since I am using the EBL system to control the IAC do I need to reset it with the ALDL method of jumping pin A to pin B?

thanks!

On Tue, Aug 15, 2023 at 7:26 AM George Beckman <gbec...@graestone.org> wrote:

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "GMCMH EFI" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to gmcmh-efi+...@googlegroups.com.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/750428C8-80B8-4535-87C9-C71834E26FF5%40graestone.org.

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "GMCMH EFI" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to gmcmh-efi+...@googlegroups.com.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/750428C8-80B8-4535-87C9-C71834E26FF5%40graestone.org.

On Aug 13, 2023, at 5:22 PM, Bill Van Vlack <bill.va...@gmail.com> wrote:

 

---------

Best Wishes,

George
gbec...@graestone.org

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "GMCMH EFI" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to gmcmh-efi+...@googlegroups.com.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/750428C8-80B8-4535-87C9-C71834E26FF5%40graestone.org.

[BruceHislop]

Cameron,
RobR, the inventor of the EBL, told me that the OEM GM setup was not needed for the EBL.  His instructions were with a warmed up engine, set the idle screw so that you get about 10 Counts on the IAC showing on the WUD.  The IAC counts will change in real time as you adjust the idle screw.  Then go to the DIAG screen and check the TPS voltage, it should be between 0.3 and 0.6 volts. You can adjust the TPS with the engine OFF and the Ign key ON to set the TPS voltage.

The IAC on the EBL resets each time you turn the key OFF.

The original ECM had no real time display. It was a production product so the TPS voltage would have been set on a test jig and the ECM would have been hard coded to expect this reading for the Idle setting.

Bruce Hislop

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/CAMM5Unhz%3Dx3%3DNRs9FeaRDx_r4GrofhfGoW7%2Br%2BQrrJeFouc86Q%40mail.gmail.com.

[Cameron]

Thanks!

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/ac497011-9e95-1405-708d-0a6894660577%40gmail.com.

[George Beckman]

Yes, this works perfectly unless the TPS is off, but The counts and about .6 volts will put you in good stead.

On Aug 15, 2023, at 4:40 PM, BruceHislop <bhis...@gmail.com> wrote:

RobR, the inventor of the EBL, told me that the OEM GM setup was not needed for the EBL.  His instructions were with a warmed up engine, set the idle screw so that you get about 10 Counts on the IAC showing on the WUD.  The IAC counts will change in real time as you adjust the idle screw.  Then go to the DIAG screen and check the TPS voltage, it should be between 0.3 and 0.6 volts. You can adjust the TPS with the engine OFF and the Ign key ON to set the TPS voltage.

[MICHAEL ORLANDI]

To set the minimum air the ISC needs to be seated.TPS  needs to be about .5 volts +-.05 volts.  You need a ECM output to command ISC to a seated position. Then you can adjust minimum air/ Idle speed. If you have a vacuum leak you will not be able to set  minimum air/Idle speed.

Get Outlook for iOS

---

From: gmcm...@googlegroups.com <gmcm...@googlegroups.com> on behalf of BruceHislop <bhis...@gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2023 4:40:36 PM

To: gmcm...@googlegroups.com <gmcm...@googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: [GMCMH-EFI] THANKS

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/ac497011-9e95-1405-708d-0a6894660577%40gmail.com.

[MICHAEL ORLANDI]

On the GM trucks that had adjustable TPS there was a jumper harness that we would use to set the TPS. With a DVOM. KOEO or engine running. You could use a scan tool but it was too slow to update the screen.

Get Outlook for iOS

---

From: gmcm...@googlegroups.com <gmcm...@googlegroups.com> on behalf of MICHAEL ORLANDI <biggameh...@sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2023 5:21:19 PM

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/SN6PR10MB2861BB7461C379C495A65B5FA715A%40SN6PR10MB2861.namprd10.prod.outlook.com.

[Keith V]

My throttle body was misadjusted from the factory. The butterflys were not centered in the bore so the could never close all the way. Idle speed way to damn high. I centered them and it ran perfectly.

Air cleaner, use the spectre hat. The jeep hat is restrictive. Heres my build:

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/fuel-injection/p68263-air-cleaner-hat.html

Sent from my T-Mobile 5G Device
Get Outlook for Android

---

From: gmcm...@googlegroups.com <gmcm...@googlegroups.com> on behalf of MICHAEL ORLANDI <biggameh...@sbcglobal.net>

Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2023 7:27:28 PM

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/SN6PR10MB286154CA0D20E139FCB957DBA715A%40SN6PR10MB2861.namprd10.prod.outlook.com.

[Cameron]

I just got one in the mail Keith (I think, pn98499).  I need to find the junk yard where u got that spacer..

Cameron

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/DM6PR02MB671426598432D165920B0F26A415A%40DM6PR02MB6714.namprd02.prod.outlook.com.

[Keith V]

Those spacers should be on every tbi out there, smallblock is the same

Sent from my T-Mobile 5G Device
Get Outlook for Android

---

From: gmcm...@googlegroups.com <gmcm...@googlegroups.com> on behalf of Cameron <cbi...@gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2023 4:03:21 PM

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/CAMM5UngLnWwH1StOyhpmuB_3rVNeQQdXc-9C-BpW1p8k9ShoCw%40mail.gmail.com.

[Bill Van Vlack]

Back to the Idle-IAC-VPS-throttle screw voltage discussion.... My VPS is at 0.5V. At a cold start, the IAC drops as CTS rises until it reaches 0 steps at about 650 RPM, where it once in a while opens to 1 step. I figure I need to adjust the idle screw to get about 10 counts. Can this be done while the engine's running and watching IAC steps on the WUD, or do I need to shut down, adjust, and start up again?

Bill

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/DM6PR02MB67148855EC87B3980C998973A41BA%40DM6PR02MB6714.namprd02.prod.outlook.com.

[BruceHislop]

Bill,
What you are proposing to do is the way RobR says to adjust it using the EBL and the WUD.  Currently your throttle plates are open enough to allow the engine to idle at or above your target RPMs with no additional air through the IAC. 

With the engine warmed up and running.  Adjust your throttle plates more closed using the idle adjust screw and watch the IAC counts increase until you hit around 10 counts.  At the point the EBL will be able to control the idle using the IAC.

Bruce Hislop

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/CA%2BX-fMcZjSEi6GcCWOEJQ96WtRJF_ZNvc0Akewf%2BkaCVxwTkOA%40mail.gmail.com.

[James Hupy]

What Bruce said x 2.

Jim Hupy

Salem, Oregon

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/e6d054b9-4cb3-25db-9b64-fed8b03697dc%40gmail.com.

[Cameron]

hey guys,

i'm back at it for the weekend.  would appreciate some ideas.

I can not get the idle down..  but, I also can not find a vacuum leak (using the method to spray around the TBI to see if I can change the idle).  I spent some time with the IAC blocked off and unplugged trying to get the idle down.    the lowest I could get it was in the low 800's. 

at this point do I flash in a bin with a higher acceptable idle to get the IAC counts up?  or is there a vacuum leak I should keep looking for?  more suggestions here if that is what you think I should do...

Thanks!

Cameron

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/CA%2BX-fMcZjSEi6GcCWOEJQ96WtRJF_ZNvc0Akewf%2BkaCVxwTkOA%40mail.gmail.com.

[Bill Van Vlack]

Do your IAC counts change at all during a cold start, or are they always 0?  TPS voltage around 0.5v? Did you try centering the butterflies as Keith described? Can you hear/watch the IAC pintle when you turn the ignition off? It should seat and poke out of the TBI bore and then reset to around 143 steps. This is powered by the battery connection to the ECM. And I'm pretty sure it should report that number after ignition is turned back on and before cranking. 

I don't think changing the CTS/RPM table will help. If the IAC can't control RPMS to follow that table under any CTS values, it's not the table's fault. If your CTS is not working and  always reports a low temperature, the idle will remain high - if the IAC is successfully controlling RPM.

I was hearing popping, (sometimes loud) from my exhaust during idle and finally got back to it. Just discovered an open port on a manifold vacuum tee fitting. Put a cap back on and that fixed it.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/CAMM5UngJLfwv265_rRzHob%2BmYH6nq379t3Wk2YB0FjACPMPgaA%40mail.gmail.com.

[Bruce Hislop]

Cameron, maybe try blocking off each of the vacuum hoses. The PVC valve has  ball valve that is supposed to close at idle, maybe it's sticking.  The power brake booster could be leaking.  Those could cause large vacuum leaks.

I have a couple small needle nose vice grips with a section of hose on each jaw.  They are handy for pinching off hoses.

Bruce Hislop

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/CA%2BX-fMenuHLz2pineE7OR6UVyTToKquhvcf%3D906ofmNxXkqjfA%40mail.gmail.com.

[Cameron]

well, I think I found something.  kinda..

when inspecting for vacuum leaks, I found a corner of the adapter plate that was hitting the manifold.  I think it was letting something in.  I am still running on the bin that has idle at 875, but now at least I have some IAC counts.

(yes, recentered the butterflies, that is how I got as low as I am.  I dont think I can get any lower tho.  thoughts of a low idle at 875?  (attached is the latest data log).

Cameron

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/CA%2BX-fMenuHLz2pineE7OR6UVyTToKquhvcf%3D906ofmNxXkqjfA%40mail.gmail.com.

[James Hupy]

I use hemostats, which are locking pliers but gentle compaired to vice grips. They work really well to pinch off hoses without damaging them. I have several pair. If you cannot get your idle speed down, AND YOUR IGNITION TIMING IS CORRECT, then you have a vacuum leak somewhere.

Jim Hupy

Salem, Oregon

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/CAFziMfOgT-Ef1XKxKBoEzUzsmizABzUEKC2gBc9RrXVPG4pC3Q%40mail.gmail.com.

[James Hupy]

Just for grins and giggles, what is the casting number on your intake manifold?  There are a bunch of them out there and some have part of the casting that sometimes interferes with the micky mouse A-daptor plate that converts the 4 barrel manifold to a 2 barrel. There are also a couple of different adaptor plates that only match certain gaskets. Confusion abounds.

Jim Hupy

Salem, Oregon

[Bill Van Vlack]

Cameron......

 Looks like progress; can you post a copy of your BIN?

I notice the WBO2 is reporting slightly lean.

Probably grind down the adapter a little so there's  clearance to the manifold.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/CAMM5UnibuVzH_UM3AX-7zYLTS16uvER_%3DhsHhJgSY_KQoAmBfQ%40mail.gmail.com.

[Cameron]

I did have to use the porting tool to make some extra room for the adapter plate.  And my dad had a better gasket than came with the kit.  Btw the 2, I think I’m in a pretty good place.

I will post the bin tomorrow, I had to step away for the evening.

Thanks for Al the help!

Cameron 

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/CA%2BX-fMc-rhB8CV1z5tjBFTwc_RX6FTmGs74w3XdvANwWNz%2BYLA%40mail.gmail.com.

[Gerald Work]

Hi Jim,

I am vicariously following this dialog.  It sure sounds like a lot of these folks are grasping about…..  wouldn’t they be better off with one of the FITECH clones?  Or are you finding real differences from messing around with these Howell units?

Jerry

Jerry Work

The Dovetail Joint

Fine furniture designed & hand crafted

in the 1907 former Masonic Temple building 

in historic Kerby, OR

http://jerrywork.com

On Aug 19, 2023, at 11:57 AM, James Hupy <james...@gmail.com> wrote:



To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/CALxoeyvM0BBTTgCfZR5_5xt9Pqzz%2Bq0A6KyPDz5XsBFRWJUapA%40mail.gmail.com.

[Jon Roche]

There is a group on Facebook for fi-tech.  

There is way more issues with fi-tech units.  And also holly snipers.   Usually install easy but fail people on the road and leave them switching back to a carb to get home while they mail on their unit.    I can think of at least a few people who dumped their fi-tech.  

If I remember that happened to the owners that bought your coach??

I know dozens of howell/gm based efi systems that have not been touched for past 10 years.   It has been that long or longer where people did the “group buy”. 

My gm based efi has been working very well.  

On Aug 19, 2023, at 8:10 PM, 'Gerald Work' via GMCMH EFI <gmcm...@googlegroups.com> wrote:

Hi Jim,

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/14C1989A-4B08-487F-9E2B-7E84494DCBA0%40mac.com.

[Johnny Bridges]

My MSD - Atomic has run flawlessly for 40K+ miles.  I think it's been discontinued now, not sure.  Miguel installed it for the p.o.

--johnny

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/ECB4A9CC-B023-482B-B32A-133D020B3648%40gmail.com.

[Cameron]

I will definitely admit there is a learning curve - and at times I am "grasping about".  I do think this is the right decision for me in the long run, but in the short run I am still learning.  the data from the EBL has been critical to understanding what is happening with my config.  plug and play can be great until it doesnt 'play'.  

Bill,  attached is the bin I am using.  I set the idle to 750 and the engine seems to be adhering to that.  pls let me know if you think I need to do something to richen it up a bit.

today I have to check my fuel pressure sensor, not sure I have that setup correctly yet.  andI hope to get the air cleaner on and maybe take her for a spin!

thanks again for all the advice as I am grasping about!

Cameron

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/14C1989A-4B08-487F-9E2B-7E84494DCBA0%40mac.com.

[Bill Van Vlack]

Cameron,

  Keep reaching out here until you're sorted. Lots of folks willing to help.

It sounds like the IAC is able to do its job holding RPMs. How many steps at warm idle?

I don't know how to richen the idle mixture; I wouldn't think a little lean at warm idle is a problem.

Datalogs are cheap... Start a new one before a cold crank and let it run during the whole drive. Repeat for every BIN change and/or learning session.

Bill

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/CAMM5Unj6cNG0EwiiDe-QPiqmM3t%2BOkKVa2ptBTmnc1VBL%2BedbA%40mail.gmail.com.

[Cameron]

thanks Bill!

I dont think I have a data log from that final start, need to do that.  IAC was under 25 for sure.  maybe 20.  Just got the aircleaner mounted, hoping to take her for a cruise today!

Cameron

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/CA%2BX-fMeWRO--qE5eLFdUMAQxpHVGuivvP%3DfODt660DY9CqPyPQ%40mail.gmail.com.

[James Hupy]

Putting the air cleaner in place will fatten up the idle mix a bit. It can be a bit lean at idle with no significant issue. But, wide open throttle is where you need fuel, lots of it.

Jim Hupy

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/CAMM5Ung2eRVZg62-WJPiwvu0DAB2_Lw0h5p_xvmRgnbuBgXfHw%40mail.gmail.com.

[Cameron]

well, just took the maiden voyage!  mostly good, but wants to die at take off.  not every time, but a few times..  I did a couple of 10 minute VE learns I am hoping that a longer VE learn will take care of that.

what was the program that looked at the datalog in a graph, instead of with the WUD playback?  the data log is too large to attach.

thanks!

Cameron

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/CALxoeysXmvPv3C%3DefYGh_sD4YpPyQ0n_3Ssz4AXXOehK2h9FQA%40mail.gmail.com.

[Bill Van Vlack]

The graph program is WinLogView and is available for download at winlog-ebl.org. Let me know when you've registered there and I will approve your account so that you can download it. The process for using it with a WUD datalog is in the forum on that site here: http://winlog-ebl.org/index.php/forum/wud-datalog. If you need help with it, we can discuss it there.

If you convert the datalog to an Excel file, you may be able to zip it and attach it here.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/CAMM5UngN5wRUqddR1wNF0E-4pbL5G0iEdPAfQoGi2cPMisHZ0g%40mail.gmail.com.

[Cameron]

Hey Bill, just verifying the $30 paypal.  I have never seen this sandbox paypal before

https://www.sandbox.paypal.com/

Cameron

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/CA%2BX-fMen7jn6vB5isuTJxt%3DnKWtw%2B1LLCj4YD9ENvkwz3aDHVA%40mail.gmail.com.

[Bill Van Vlack]

Cameron,

 There isn't a paypal module on winlog-ebl.org; what url did you follow?

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/CAMM5Unj5HLDti0GRaMr9_6zcxQtwOPK-ihKskZT9aF7GU1AOfQ%40mail.gmail.com.

[Cameron]

I didnt find a way to register on  winlog-ebl.org, only a login page.  so I looked at the quick start page and it said "Download the WinLog V1.2 setup file and run it.".  when I did that, it prompted me for a registration code, which took me to that sandbox.paypal.com site..

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/CA%2BX-fMcDud0dV2txEi3tFqfdP1u674YOZx04nEr2HOSoei4KpQ%40mail.gmail.com.

[Cameron]

not sure how I missed the "I dont have an account" that you just mentioned to tony.  anyway, I have now clicked that and setup my account.

thanks!

[Bill Van Vlack]

I've approved your account now. Maybe switch to Tony's thread for help with WinLog-EBL stuff so that we can keep this one for your install/tuning issues - and hopefully continue participation in this one as needed.

In that regard, check this info out for Acceleration Enhancement (die at takeoff)  https://www.dynamicefi.com/Tune_Intro2.php

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gmcmh-efi/CAMM5Ung%2BJoVaH_eHoooW87Vn5pmigh-89zfj0VVbUnzTjemFJg%40mail.gmail.com.