Driver Xbox Original

[Libano Parkes]

XBCDis an abbreviation for the "X-Box Controller Driver" Which has been around for almost as long as the Original Xbox Controllers themselves (approximately 2001-2003). As of 5/4/2017, the guide was updated to illustrate ways of installing these drivers which hopefully will answer the many questions that we get about them. This new method also no longer requires the test signing feature which also eliminates the requirement for UWD.exe which should make some of our subscribers happy.

In case you have no-script enabled or for some reason cannot see the title video on this website. We have provided direct links for these videos. For more information about the standards we use on this site click here if you would like to know more.

It should be noted like any hardware or software hack that S-Config is not responsible for any physical, mental, financial, or psychological damage that may happen when following this tutorial. The drivers and software provided are intended to work in an AS-IS base. We provide no guarantees this tutorial will work for your product. Also, this website contains internal links for binary files to which we highly suggest that you invest in a good virus checker prior to downloading anything off of the internet. Trust no one! For additional and general questions refer to the FAQ of this site.

Back in the days when Microsoft got involved with the console wars. They made a bunch of controllers for their X-Box units and people began to realize that if you just splice a USB cable on the end of the proprietary connection then you could use the Xbox Controller on your PC. Microsoft at the time really didn't want to associate hardware from their console with hardware from their PC because a few corporate people back then felt it would disenfranchise their user base from actually purchasing an Xbox.

It wasn't until the introduction of the Xbox 360 that Microsoft gave support for their users to use their beloved controllers on their PCs and other devices. Even then Xbox 360 controller support for PC users was released around 2008 giving a few-year gap between its initial release date in 2005. This dongle was designed to work with the "Games for Windows" logo during Windows 7. They also mentioned that this dongle would work with "all future Xbox 360 devices." That is of course until the Xbox One came out.

Since Microsoft was very quick the bury the Xbox original console this left a void of people wondering what to do with their old hardware. Well, one of those things to do is to recycle the controller onto your PC.

Like all things, XBCD development stopped as many thought it wasn't necessary to develop. I even posted a blog article talking about the Wireless Xbox 360 receivers and controllers and how awesome they were. Windows XP was the last officially supported version of XBCD 0.2.7 with some 32-bit work for Windows Vista. However, for those users that want to keep their controllers going in the year 2016, yet, there's a way to keep on rocking with these controllers.

Lets get the hardware section out of the way first. If you ever picked up an original Xbox controller you will notice right away its proprietary connector that is attached to the joysticks. We need to convert that connection into something a little more usable for our PC.

Ebay - has a large assortment of cables under $10 easy. Amazon - also has these cables available as well! Thanks to Mantis Toboggan M.D.4 for finding links and the proper name for these cables. Either link you choose to buy a cable just know that we don't make any money providing eBay or Amazon links and just do it as a service for those interested in purchasing the adapter versus building one.

Lucky for us, the wiring of the Xbox joysticks is very easy, simply strip the wires down, find a USB cable you don't mind destroying, strip that down, and match the colors within the cable to the appropriate selection. The only cable you do not connect is the yellow clock/timer chip. You could use a USB A Male to Xbox female connector out of a destroyed Xbox unit like I did to preserve your original Xbox Joysticks. Or if you no longer care about authenticity and just want to get that ultra-cheap controller working then you can simply cut the cable on that joystick and add the USB cable right onto it. You could just wire twist them on and shrink tube them together, or solder them together and then use shrink tube (preferred). It does not matter so long as the cabling is secure as we don't want this to come apart as we're playing a game. It should also be noted that if you do have an original Xbox that by splicing an Xbox male connector and a USB female you can hook things up like a USB stick (limited compatibility restricted to 2GB) for save games as well as hooking up keyboards for some of the home-brew titles that exist out there. Back in the day when you upgraded your Xbox Original case sometimes the vendor didn't feel like removing anything from the front panel such as the control panel buttons and the Xbox connectors that they wanted users to transfer their guts over as quickly as possible. Since these were held in by a few screws they were easy to extract and easy to plug into my own little case for it. Using a Cheap USB hub can be soldered all of the connectors into a single box so you have a breakout box for party games.

Now we can finally talk about the software side of things to get it all working on your Windows box. Some of you may wonder why we host the files directly versus referring you off to a forum or another site. The answer is simple:

When visiting the forums which contained this driver we were getting redirected to an ad.fly pay-per-click service. This service refused to let us download the binary until we turn off the ad block. Upon turning off the ad-block ad.fly then produced a pop-under window which immediately began an attempt to install a Trojan onto an unsuspecting user's PC. This is what happens when you don't pay for storage. Eventually, someone else will pay for it and you won't like what they will do to your good name! Infecting people's PCs with spyware/malware/ransomware is totally counterproductive to what you are trying to do which is to make an old piece of hardware work on a modern computer. Unlike other sites which will route you through hell and endanger your PC. We are not going to do that to you. Because we love you too much.

Click on the download link on the right-hand side to go grab the file. Credit goes off to RedCl0ud for this wonderful software. Everything is open source and free for anyone to add/modify to it so go nuts. Note: The compression format has changed from .zip to .7z in accordance to our 7-zip blog entry. This does not change the video or blog tutorial in any way as WinRAR will extra 7-zip files just fine.

It's always a good idea to verify the hardware that is being installed whenever you are plugging in something new into your PC. This should be a habit that everyone does because it could save you hours of headaches installing drivers on the wrong device or if the device is not even detected properly. To access this either right-click on your start button or open the device manager. Or press the Windows + r key and type in the following.

This game-pad is a Microsoft Xbox and has a product ID of 0202 which is the Original Xbox "Duke" controller. Vendor IDs will change if you plug in third-party controllers like Madcatz or Pelican controllers. Product IDs will also change with a third party. But can also change if you plug in the original Xbox "Duke" Controller versus the original Xbox "S" Controller. As long as it produces an ID is the only thing we are looking for here. If you see a VID_0000&PID_0000 or VID_???&PID_??? . Then your computer cannot detect the controller and you need to stop right here and identify what is wrong with your Xbox controller such as possible bad wiring or if it needs more serious repair. Installing the driver will not help if you one of those two Hardware IDs.

If you are running Windows 7, or Windows 10 32-bit then yes. This tutorial ends for you right about now. Windows 32-bit edition does not rely on heavy driver verification. For the majority of users running windows 64-bit edition, this is the error that you will more than likely see if you attempt to run the setup file without doing anything. The setup files it doesn't really tell you why the installation failed. For that, we go back into the device manager. If you attempt to install the XBCD driver from C:\XBCD\driver via the device manager. We get a more precise error as to what is going on. Simply put our driver does not have an online certificate which costs $200+ dollars a year to make windows 64 happy. In order to get around this error, we are going to have to disable some of the security which is installed into Windows 10 64-bit.

We have provided a file named disable.bat within the archive which attempts to automate this process for you by elevating itself to administrator status and passing all of the commands into the windows bootloader so that it can boot with integrity checking disabled. If you don't trust my batch files you have no right to trust me. Simply open a command line with administrative access and pass the following commands.

Sometimes windows 10 gets incredibly obnoxious about drivers and we will continue to get digital signature errors. Here is how to totally disable integrity checking manually one time so we can install the driver. Click the Windows button then click on the power icon right above. While holding down your shift key and left-click the restart option.

We have also included the shutdown-recovery.bat file in the XBCD-v2.zip file which simulates the same thing as holding your shift key down. If you do not like scripts and want to type this in yourself. You may do so by opening an Admin command prompt window and typing the following:

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