General Electric P7 Oven Heating Element

[Chanelle Kirksey]

Ifyour lower heating element (bake element) in the oven is not working, it may need to be replaced. If you are replacing it yourself, the following video addresses how to replace the bake element in most electric freestanding ranges:

WHAT I'VE DONE: I've taken apart the stove and inspected each of the 4 infinite switches (msa-w735-gem) with a working ohmmeter. I've tested each pairwise combination of wire tabs for continuity and for resistance (ohms) in OFF, high, and low settings according to instructions such as here.

STATUS AFTER TESTING: All 4 infinite switches "passed" the ohmmeter test and all behaved identically. But what gives??, since 1 supposedly doesn't work at all and another only works some of the time.

None of the contacts are stuck on any unit, and the non-working units have components that I would argue look to be in even better shape then the working units -- though, there's hardly any difference. The non-working switch lacks burn marks that I have see demonstrated on a lot of how-to videos.

*Part of this is educational. I'm trying to learn more about these components, and I am really stumped as to what else could fail on the switch and how I can learn to identify it without having go the trial and error root.

The way these switches work is with a bimetallic strip (similar to the way car turn signals used to work 25+ years ago). As the electric current travels through the strip, it heats the strip causing the metal to expand. Because the two pieces of metal that are joined together expand at different rates, the strip curves away, breaking contact. As it cools, it straightens, reconnecting the circuit. (If you listen carefully to your stove, you will hear the clicks as the bimetallic strip connects and disconnects the circuit.) When you adjust the dial between different heat levels, what you are actually doing is changing the size of the gap between the strip and its electrical contact, thus changing the frequency at which the heating element turns on and off.

In your case, most likely either the bimetallic strip has gotten stuck in the closed position, or the distance adjustment mechanism has failed. The switch itself cannot be easily repaired, so you will have to replace both of the malfunctioning ones. (While you have the whole thing open, you might just want to replace all four.) The reason all four switches show low resistance in your test is that the low voltage used by the ohm meter doesn't heat up the strip enough to make it bend.

The thing that makes the bimetal inside the switch move (thereby opening/closing contacts) is an internal heater strip. If the heater is burned out, or intermittent, of course the switch function will be degraded. But the other factor governing switch operation is pressure on the two flexible arms holding the main contacts. EDIT: DISREGARD: [Pressure on one side is provided by the circular ramp connected to the knob. The other "bottom" contact, on the switches I'm familiar with, is attached to an arm which is more or less exposed on the exterior of the switch, and the position of which is adjustable by means of a sheet-metal "peg" that is friction-fitted into a hole in the plastic switch body. Small movements of that peg result in large changes in heat output at the stove burner. That peg's position can clearly be altered by rough handling or accidental contact. It's clearly also a means to calibrate switch operation.] END DISREGARD. Research tells me the stove model stated is a 4-burner cooktop with ordinary (no glass top) surface resistive burners. More importantly, the switch model number stated is a parallel heater circuit switch, which means a heater element open condition will result in little or no movement of the bimetal strip holding the main contacts, and therefore continue to operate in HIGH (and possibly higher than HIGH) mode. This is in contrast to most infinite switches I've seen, which have the heating element in series with the load current path, and failure will result in no heat at all in any knob position.

Though we may not be baking cookies every day, no one wants their GE oven not baking properly when we want them. To save troubleshooting time, our list of reasons for a GE electric oven not heating pinpoints the most common parts responsible. Since baking opportunities may be few, nothing should stand in our way.

Is your GE oven not getting hot at all? If this is the case, a burned-out bake element could be to blame. The bake element is located at the bottom of the oven and provides heat for roasting and baking by receiving electric current. When the bake element is working properly it will glow red and provide a steady, even heat.

The Oven Bake Element is an OEM replacement part for GE ovens. It is a critical component responsible for generating the heat necessary for baking and cooking food in the oven cavity. Measuring 18 inches wide and 14 inches deep to the mounting flange. It has an element extension of approximately 2 1/4 inches past the bracket to the terminals. This element is rated at 220 volts and 2300 watts.

Of course, these things always seem to happen on a holiday! Luckily we were not having guests for dinner - so quickly changed our eating plans for the evening. I went directly online and Googled "Bake elements for GE ovens". At first I did not think I would have luck finding this part because of the oven's age. AppliancePartsPros.com was one of the service dealers listed first and catered specifically to GE appliances and parts. So, I typed in the Model number and low and behold, a screen... Read more

The Oven Baking Element is an OEM part for GE electric ranges and wall ovens. This baking element is located at the bottom of the oven cavity and provides heat from below during baking function. Even, consistent heating is vital for optimal cooking performance.

Causes of a bad baking element can include mineral buildup from repeated high temperature use that interferes with heating ability. Element coils breaking or blowing out is also common after several years of use.

I cannot not sing the praises of this company & their helpful & fast service. I am going to post the online site address w/my praises on my facebook page for my friends that live on ranches many miles from appliance repair shops & towns. The Oven in our house is for sure over 20 yrs old it was in this home when we bought it, the home is 33 yrs old & the Oven is a Wall Oven, there is not room for a standard Oven in this Kitchen. The Oven itself still looks very nice. About 8 yrs ago or more... Read more

The Bake Element is an OEM part for GE ovens, designed to provide the heat necessary for baking. This element is located at the bottom of the oven cavity and heats up when electricity is applied, converting electrical energy into heat to cook food evenly.

Watched AppliancePartsPros.com instruction video.Ordered new oven bake element, which arrived a couple days later.Removed old oven bake elelment.Installed new oven bake element.I am very appreciative of the instructional video. It's a very handy way for me to figure out if it's a do-it-yourself repair or not. In this case, another key thing it pointed out was the fact that the two wires that attach to the oven bake element have a tendency to slip back into the insulation behind the... Read more

It took a few of us. One to vacuum up the fire extinguisher residue. One to trip the breaker. One to provide light. One to clean out under the stove while it was pulled out. I disconnected the bake element. I needed help to disconnect one of them because it was very tight. I put the element into the oven and reconnected the right side, very easy. The left side fell back into the slot. Curses ensued. I removed the back plate and it was very easy to thread the left wire back into the oven and... Read more

The Broil Element is an OEM part for GE ovens. It is designed to provide the high heat necessary for broiling food, such as meats and vegetables, allowing for a quick cooking process that seals in flavors and creates a deliciously crispy exterior.

Causes of a bad Broil Element can include failure due to internal coil damage, burnout from excessive use, or electrical issues such as short circuits or loose connections that prevent it from heating.

Causes of oven bake element failure typically include general wear and tear from regular use, exposure to high temperatures which can weaken the element over time, or electrical issues such as short circuits.

Took out old element,got part number and look for the cheapest price online, Appliance Parts Pro could not be beat... order part be number, easy to match, came in fast and put in element, only needed a 5/16 nutdriver to take it out and put it in,unpluged wires and bent just a little to keep one on left and one right from getting mixed up and pluged up new element and ran in the 2 screws,easy job, dont get no easier.. Thanks again Appliance Parts Pro Read more

The Oven Bake Element is an OEM part for GE ovens. This component is located at the bottom of the oven cavity and is responsible for generating the heat needed for baking. By converting electrical energy into heat, the bake element ensures even temperature distribution throughout the oven, allowing for consistent cooking results.

Causes of a malfunctioning Oven Bake Element may involve visible signs of wear or damage, like blistering or holes, a break in the element that hinders proper heating, and burnout or malfunctioning resulting from age or excessive use.

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