Crack Seal Paint

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Leda Billock

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Aug 3, 2024, 6:01:31 PM8/3/24

to glasonkofpa

Decoupage is an adhesive I use in my mixed media paintings to adhere all the colorful papers and things to my painting surface, but it is also a great sealer. All my mixed media projects are finished with a thin layer of decoupage.

I would like to put this image !Provincia_di_Pesaro_e_Urbino-Stemma.png and make something that looks like a wax seal out of it (kind of like this : ) but I can't get anything good out of my experiments.

A primer is recommended on bare surfaces prior to application of Dura Seal. Smart Seal primers are designed to penetrate and seal the surface, providing uniformity. With Dura Seal completing the process, you have a new, ceramic-like surface that is cohered to the substrate, and a beautiful finish that lasts up to eight years.

If I do a floor I use a WATERBASED, usually Satin sealer. It goes on kind of white, but dries clear. It adds a bit of a sheen, but nothing like a semi gloss or something would. It allows you to seal the paint, but you can sweep and mop it with no problem.

If you use oil based though, it's bad news. Just make sure it is water based. You will know if it is water based if the clean up instructions state cleaning with soap and water. If it says clean with mineral spirits DO NOT USE IT.

Thank you! We will definitely stay away from wax. Our custodians once thought they were doing me a favor by waxing the stage floor - over the set we had taped out. We couldn't get the tape off and it took over a year for the wax to wear off. Never again!!

Thin water based polyurethane 4 to 1-- yes, 4 to 1 and apply with a new roller sleeve. Next time, the floor is painted, you will have to rough up the poly with a drywall screen on a pole. We just have the whole class do this part-- takes about 10 minutes. Alternatively, you can use glaze, which is hard to find but can be made with white glue and water again about 4 (water) to 1. The nice thing about the glaze is that it does not need to be roughed up or removed next time, most of it will wear off anyway by the end of two weeks.

Have you considered using a floor drop? Many theatres lay-down a canvas drop and paint the floor scene on that. The advantage to this method is that the stage floor can remain black with little maintenance. The drop is secured around the edges with gaffer's tape, and maybe a few strips of double-sided tape in the middle to keep it from wrinkling. It makes clean-up a lot easier, and costs little more than the extra gallons of black paint and the labor of repainting (everyone complains about not having enough time - why not save some time - it's valuable!). if you do several shows a year this can add-up quickly.

Another advantage is if your show run is not continuous - maybe 2-3 consecutive weekends - then the drop can be rolled-up and the stage remains available for other users (band, dance, assemblies, etc.) during the interim. Similarly, if you have the space, the drop can be painted in the scene shop or black-box theatre, or off in a wing (do many HS theatres have any substantial wing space? I hardly ever see a wing area that is large enough to allow you to move a whole set offstage), while the actors are rehearsing on-stage.

I'm interested in a floor drop. How do you get it tight enough so it doesn't wrinkle? Whenever I've tried it it gets wrinkles and makes walking difficult. Love the idea and I've seen them put down at the Metropolitan Opera.