T16000m

[Madison Rapelyea]

Ipropped up the stick, so the button surface was as horizontal as possible, dabbed enough Acetone on the gluesurfaces to keep them moist, waited for a bit to let the Acetone work, while keeping to ad small amounts of Acetone to keep moist, then carefully placing the new top on the button and press hard for a while.

The most important thing is to be patient and not move stuff around until the Acetone has evaporated and the bond has set.

In trying to put it back on with CA glue, I failed to turn it upside down, so glue got into the switch.

Note to self! Whenever you are using easy flowing glues, turn the objects so it flows away from moving parts!

I misaligned the switch so I had to cut it out again.

More note to self! There is a high chance of ruining electronic components when trying to install them with hotglue multiple times or using to much at the wrong place! It still works but 2 of the buttons have a lessened clicky feel.

Check out this guide, for about $9 of parts you can replace the shitty carbon trace potentiometer with a hall effect sensor. Will never have ghost inputs, and will center easily every time you plug it in: _modding.pdf?dl=0

How do you go about mapping your extra inputs to the output of the joystick? I am a novice in terms of joystick modding, having only performed Hall yaw fix on the t16000m so far, but looking for ways to continue improving what is a cheap and excellent (if slightly flawed) stick

To find out where to drill the holes on the mount plate, I had some bolts sticking out from the Tee nuts and drilled the first hole in the mount plate. Then I slipped that hole onto the correct bolt and aligned the plate to my satisfaction and wriggled it hard against the other bolts, so they made indentures I could drill into.

T16000m base mounted to swap plate. (Somehow this reminds me of a NCC1701 thingie). The notch is to clear the lag screws in the block. I have cut off the top of the gimbal stick so it have a better height.

Hi,

I wonder if the T16000 is precise enough so as if I lengthen the stick to get a full size one I'll have enough precision for helicopters.

And, is it doable (and not very hard) to lengthen the T16000, and remove the spring, to use for helicopters?

Regarding the price of a T16000 if I can manage that I could even buy a second one to use with planes

Thanks

Edit: btw the T16000 has about 16k value on an axis. Does it mean this is a 14 bits joystick? As 2^14=16.384.

i've been flying helos for number of weeks on the t16000 and liked the precision very much. I am not a pilot and have no real helo flying experience, but looking at the depletion of the stick as animated in the sim seemed to be pretty closely matched to the amount of movement on the stick knowing the rotational movement's somewhat different.

Hi Thoragas, would you mind share size and length of the pvc pipes and joins, particularly if you can share more details on how pipes were joined between the base and handle? i am hoping to get all the needed parts from home depot and try your mod.

I disassembled the handle, cut the stick near the dome base leaving about 3/4 an inch. I used a straight metal pipe from the popular ikea floor lamp that uses skinny silver metal pole consisting 4 segments. I used one segment and it was just about perfect fit in terms of thickness to match the T16000's stick. Thus I was able to retain all the controls including the twist yaw function. ( although I use saitek pro flight rudder pedals for yaw)

I am hoping to use existing slider on T16000M somehow as the laptop has just 2 usb ports, they are all used up by t16000m and rudder pedals and i don't know if adding usb hub will add further delay in control responses?

I ended up removing the slider and installed it in a flat plastic box, which is then attached to the chair using doublesided tape for the time being. I'll probably add a connector so I can easily detach the stick from the chair... The t16000m sits perfectly in between the saitek pedals.

My first iteration was to use bycicle brake cables as push/pull mechanism to reach the slider on the base. That solution was inaccurate.

I ended up removing the slider and installed it in a flat plastic box, which is then attached to the chair using doublesided tape for the time being. I'll probably add a connector so I can easily detach the stick from the chair... The t16000m sits perfectly in between the saitek pedals.

ps. does anyone know how to rotate a picture above? The photo itself had correct orientation but became 90 degree CCW after being uploaded...

thanks

As you opened it up from bottom you see 2 circuit boards on each side of the stick mechanism and wires going across in between. You need to undo the circuit board to the right and loose the wires so you can undo the 4 screws that's holding the main mechanism.

Now the wires coming from the stick goes thru that square plate's hole onto the circuit board... i forgot how they were routed but i think they were soldered directly to the circuit board... In my case since i was cutting the stick off to extend it, i had the wires cut off.

you can see the spring in this pic and the circuit board moved to the side. The stick control wires came out from where you see brown/white wires. If you use a few cable ties to tie down the spring, its shortens spring to the point that it's not exercising force, essentially removing the spring from acting on the stick mechanism.

Ok thanks, so no need to increase the force of the stick, the stick loose as it is is good. Now I just have to take care of the centered position when I plug it in. Dunno if this is a problem just with the T16000 or with all hall sensor sticks. Though it is easier this way to control the helicopter... the BK117 from don't remember who, as I have not purchased a dreamfoil one yet... I'll do soon

Something Strange happens high in the air, I think because I did not take care of my speed enough, suddenly my helicopter went in circle... after 5 minutes of hard fight I managed to go back to a forward attitude...

Edit: I need real pedals as well, racing pedals are not very good as I have to apply constantly a force on either pedal, this is not just a foot position, so this is not very precise... I have some CH pedals at home, but no room to put them in my cockpit yet, where I have my racing Wheel and racing pedals as well :) (and CH pedals are huge in size ^^)

i think the calibration is basically getting the minimum and maximum values. It automatically take middle value as center unless you manually override with setting centers. Once calibrated ( bar turns green ) you won't have to calibrate again. With zero nul zone and zero stability augumentation it doesn't really matter where center is. Bret would probably tell you that the center is where the helicopter is balanced.

In fact I'm talking about calibration in Windows. Seems the joystick auto calibrate when it is plugin, and therefore if the joystick is not centered (and it is not without the spring) the calibration is weird...

I have more than 16000, when I center the stick at startup then I have 0 to about 16300 in each axis. Something like that if I remember well... Guess I have 16384 (2^14), in fact this means those are 14 bit sticks, right?

you can see the spring in this pic and the circuit board moved to the side. The stick control wires came out from where you see brown/white wires. If you use a few cable ties to tie down the spring, its shortens spring to the point that it's not exercising force, essentially removing the spring from acting on the stick mechanism.

Shorten springs ( i.e. cut spring shorter ) actually increases spring stiffness. Anyways try less destructive ideas first, always smile.png

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