Bosch Circuit Breaker

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Shantelle Wenske

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Aug 5, 2024, 3:02:21 AM8/5/24
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Afterwaiting 15 month, we finally received our Bosch Microwave/Oven combo unit model HBL8743UC. The combo unit is rated at 9600W, and per manual, requiring a 240V 40A circuit. This combo unit actually comes in two boxes, microwave and the oven. The Microwave is to be mounted on top of the oven with four wires going into a panel on top of the oven. Then there is a set of four wires to be connected to the wall electrical box. If these units were to be purchased separately, the oven is rated at 240V 30A, and microwave at 240V 16A.

My first thought was to add new 8AWG wiring connected to a 40A breaker. Then I noticed the wiring coming of this unit are marked 10AWG. How is the unit requiring a 40A circuit has 10AWG internal wiring? If I follow the manual, I would have to connect the unit's 10AWG wires to my newly run 8AWG wires. That doesn't sound right too me.


Breakers don't trip immediately, by design, except at several times the rated current. Plus the rules are based on continuous use at 80%, so with a 40A breaker requirement, the expected current is no more than 32A except for brief periods (not likely applicable to an oven, though possibly to a limited degree for the microwave oven as microwave ovens are not used for hours at a time the way conventional ovens are used). Plus there is variability in breakers. You could easily have 32A continuous on a 30A breaker and not trip for a very long time and have overheated - possibly burning - wires as a result.


That is a possibility. Unfortunately, since it is a 4-wire circuit you can't reuse the existing 120V circuit. If it was a pure 240V circuit then it would only need 3 wires and you could turn the 120V circuit into a 240V circuit by changing to a double breaker. But that won't work here - new cable needed.


No! That is allowed in many places for old stuff - i.e., a straight replacement of a previous 3-wire connection. Not allowed for new stuff. And in any case, that would not solve the 10 AWG/30A vs. 8 AWG/40A problem.


The NEC code does not allow under most circumstances to protect #10 AWG CU with more than a 30 amp breaker or fuse for normal use. However, #10 AWG CU can handle much more than 30 amps depending on the insulation. So your oven has fallen into that design category and has been UL approved. You need the 40 amp breaker because your oven could easily be pulling 35 to 40 amps and would need the 40 amp breaker specified in the instructions. You really want to follow those direction exactly as written because your warranty and insurances could be affected if you don't. Run the new 40 amp circuit and #8 AWG wire if that's what the instructions call for.


Depending on the requirement of the microwave, you'd terminate that in a box in the cabinetry behind with either a junction box for hardwiring, or a NEMA 6-20 receptacle for cord & plug connection. This is a pretty unusual setup, but not completely unheard of, especially in CA as we're all of a sudden all trying to cram support for 240V appliances into buildings that were never designed for them.


Chief stocks and distributes Optifuse automotive plug-in circuit breakers that are available in Modified, Automatic, or Manual Switch reset options. Automotive circuit breakers are designed for use in electrical systems and provide overload protection and prevent power current spikes from damaging critical electrical components, such as fuses. Tested and proven for a variety of applications including trucks, tractors, buses, RVs, boats, and more. Shop our BRIC power distribution modules to use these automotive plug-in circuit breakers in a sealed enclosure.


This has been the most frustrating week of my life. We are in the market for a new induction range, and I have been trying to figure out whether the models my wife likes can be accommodated by our existing wiring (50A breaker for the range). The story is confusing as hell, and none of the manufacturer supports line have been useful and forthcoming, so I am hoping members who have purchased one of these models can chime in


a) My wife's favorite is the Samsung NE58H9970WS. Samsung stubbornly refuses to provide ANY guidance on the circuit breakers needed for the range, nor do they provide detailed drawings for the needed cutout and outlet placement. Apparently they think that I am supposed to spend nearly $3k and once the thing shows up at my door I can figure out if it fits and if I need to spend another $1k upgrading my wiring. But I digress...With a bit of sleuthing you can figure out that the cooktop is 7.9kW, the range is 4.3kW and the warming rack is another 0.6kW. This adds up to 12.8kW or around 53A, meaning that technically I am risking breaker trips if my wife is insane enough to run over+broiler+warmer+all elements on the cooktop simultaneously. The folks at AJ Madison had to call up their distributor who also stated that the consumption is 53A, and a Home Depot technical rep stated that a 60A breaker is needed - it all kind of ties up


b) The runner-up is the Bosch HIIP054U. My wife likes the looks considerably less, and so do I. I hate electronic controls on ranges with a passion, and the Samsung has at least some knobs on it. In any case, Bosch's technical documentation is far more helpful (though their phone people are just as clueless). There they clearly state "Circuit breaker 40A", but right above it they state that the power consumption is 13.8kW. Pulling out my beloved RPN calculator from my pocket protector, I get 13800W/240V=57.5A. Pardon my French but... WTF?!?


If I can install a 13.8kW range on a 40A breaker, then I certainly should be able to do the same with a 12.8kW range. Before I plunk down somewhere north of $2.5k for either range, can any member who has either the Samsung NE58H9970WS or the Bosch HIIP054U do me a favor and walk up their breaker box and tell me what they have it running on?


No the Samsung does not need a 60 amp breaker, that is crazy, though it is ridiculous they cannot tell you, and their installation manual isn't even available online. Find me an electric range spec sheet, induction or otherwise where the recommended minimum breaker is greater than the total kW rating of the unit.


There are different types of Bosch, Bosch mini circuit breakers, and Bosch mini circuit breakers. The most popular types are Bosch circuit breakers, and Bosch mini circuit breakers. They keep with a high-demand voltageball in the end, and among them, the bosch mini circuit breakers is one of the most popular types.


As a result, they are mostly used in low demand and voltageages. One of the best type of Bosch circuit breakers is their low demand for voltageages. The locked circuit hallucination is that they are not designed to change the voltage or the load of a circuit breaker, for example, is not suited for all voltageages. On the other hand, Bosch circuit breakers have a low demand for voltageages, and they are not suitable for all voltageages. Among all of them, the locked circuit hallucination is their own.


We recommend Bosch and Hella relays and Klixon and ETA circuit breakers. We use these because of their high retention of jumping off their contacts and switching off. These can also be used as a combination switch and circuit breaker, as they can be manually turned on and off.


Circuit breakers can get weak over time. If the breaker is weak, it might trip even if the Bosch dryer isn't using too much power. After checking the Bosch dryer parts, the breaker may need replacing. Have an electrician check the breaker if the Bosch dryer makes it trip. They can replace the breaker if needed. Weak breakers trip when they shouldn't. Replacing it can fix this. Follow safety tips when working with electrical wiring.


The heating element warms the air before it goes into the Bosch dryer drum. Over time, the element can burn out so the Bosch dryer won't heat up. Use a multimeter to check if the element has continuity. No continuity means the element is burned out. If there's no continuity, replace the heating element. This should fix it so the element heats the air again and the Bosch dryer can heat properly.


The heating element warms the air before it goes into the Bosch dryer drum. Over time, the element can burn out so the Bosch dryer won't heat up. Use a multimeter to check if the element has continuity. No continuity means the element is burned out. If there's no continuity, replace the heating element assembly. This should fix it so the assembly heats the air again and the Bosch dryer can heat properly.


The power cord connects to the Bosch dryer's terminal block. If the wire terminals are loose, it can short out. That would trip the breaker or blow a fuse. Inspect the terminal block and wire terminals. Look for any damage. Burnt or melted terminals need a new power cord. Loose terminals should be tightened. Use care when working with electrical wiring. Make sure the power is off. Follow all safety steps. Wear gloves and use tools made for wiring. Loose wiring can cause shorts and be unsafe. Check connections to prevent problems.


Loose or burnt wiring can limit electricity flow. This can overheat the breaker until it trips. Check the power cord ends at the Bosch dryer and outlet. Look for burnt prongs, wires, or terminals. If the cord or terminal block is damaged, replace it. Follow safety guidelines when checking wires. Make sure the power is off first. Wear gloves and use the right tools. Burnt or loose wires are unsafe. They can cause shorts or shocks. Replace damaged cords and tighten loose connections. Proper connections prevent problems.


The terminal block connects the power cord to the Bosch dryer's wires. If the terminal block connections are loose, they can get hot and smell burnt. Check the terminal block for burnt connectors. If the terminal block is very burnt, you'll need to replace it. Tight connections on the terminal block will prevent burning smells.


A malfunctioning Bosch dryer timer has the potential to trigger the circuit breaker in your residence. This critical component in the Bosch dryer's operation is responsible for orchestrating the various phases of a drying cycle. However, should the timer become defective or damaged, it may precipitate electrical irregularities. One frequent issue involves a short circuit occurring within the timer itself. This short circuit is the result of electrical contacts within the timer coming into direct contact, leading to a sudden surge in electrical current. This heightened current draw can overload the electrical circuit, prompting the circuit breaker to disengage as a protective measure. Moreover, a malfunctioning timer may lead to erratic Bosch dryer behavior, causing abrupt electrical fluctuations that result in circuit breaker tripping. In order to rectify this issue, it is imperative to have the timer scrutinized, repaired, or replaced to ensure the dependable and safe operation of your Bosch dryer.

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