1 18 3d Printed Parts
Vernie Montagna
The following construction is a tribute to RAF Wing Commander Kenneth Horatio Wallis DSO MBE CEng FRAeS PhD, a pioneer gyrocopter aviator, who passed away early on Sunday morning, September 1st 2013. Ken was 97 years old. During the WWII, Wallis served in the Royal Air Force as Westland Lysander and Wellington pilot and flew 28 bomber missions over Germany. After the War, he flew the massive Convair B-36 and later involved in research and development, before retiring in 1964. He later became one of the leading exponents of autogyros and earned 34 world records, still holding eight of them at the time of his death. He was an inspiration to us all and we shall greatly miss him. A local hero and a national treasure.
Before start building a new scale model, I always try to study as much as possible the object of construction. Any available technical manuals and detailed walkaround photos, always help during model building process. As previously described into my previous WIP (feel free to have a look on the 1/18 scale Instytut Szybownictwa IS-A Salamandra 53 scratchbuild model already uploaded into the present forum), the plan is to design a CAD file and then print it, on a 3D replicator. This method, helps a lot and gives the opportunity to scratchbuild almost anything, under any scale, within only few minutes. The 3D printing technology introduction into scale modelling and free access to the average modeller is a great evolution in the hobby and a creative tool that helps us to build better and more realistic models. Certainly the new technologies and gadget tools in the hands of talented enthusiasts open new horizons and provide wide potentials on scale model building.
To form a complete pilot's seat, I used the 'EP-0017 seatbelts' photoetched set by Crazy Modeler, under 1/20 scale. The seatbelts got paint with red color - although they looked like khaki color in B&W pictures of the actual gyro - so as to make sharp & nice looking contrast with the previously mentioned (into CHAPTER IV) wool flock blanket covered seat.
Some additional items, also designed from scratch and later 3D printed under 1/18 scale, such as fire extinguisher, 20 lt fuel canisters, wheel chocks and taxiway light unit, got also some paint & dirt effects. Maybe is not easily vissible, but there is also a bulb inside the blue cover of the taxiway light unit. Unfortunatelly, its hard to discern behind the dark blue glass
To replicate the G-ARZA callsign & Wallis logo on autogyro's tail rudder and a few more written details on fire extinguisher & fuel canisters, I had to create some right-in-scale custom water slide decals. To do so, I used the A4 sized printable 'Experts Choice Decal' film by BMF - Bare Metal Foil Co. The decal film is available in both clear and white one. The decal film can be printed on color inkjet printers, on LASER printers or a color photocopier to reproduce any digital image. Keep in mind that the inkjet decal film is intended for use with inkjet printers only. For photocopiers and LASER printers, the LASER decal film should be the best choice. After designing the images on Corel & rescaling on right dimensions, LASER printing the water slide decals on film and thereafter applying decals on model, I used a soft brush to apply a light coat of Microscale MicroSol to soften the decal and allow it to become part of the surface.
I found nice idea to place the Wallis WA-116 Agile autogyro model on a display base, simulating a maintenance & refueling area with short grass sprouted between concrete slabs. My goal is to recreate a scene of an airfield apron area where pre-flight activities were done. An apron is any area for parking and maintenance.
I add some grams of plaster powder and few drops of water into a soft rubber cup to make the right mixture. Materials like plaster, start as a dry powder that is mixed with water to form a paste which liberates heat and then hardens. Plaster remains quite soft for few hours after drying and this characteristic make it suitable for the job.
When the first layer of thinned plaster applied on a clean surface, a flat glass were pushed against the plaster to form a flat basic strong cast. The basic idea, is to produce a totally flat cast and later add some detail or apply extra stuff where is needed. I left it few hours to get harden in order to be sure that the cast wouldn't break when I would try to cut it into desired shape. Meanwhile, I took the soft rubber cup which I used to make the plaster mixture, squized it to break the last hardened plaster left inside, so it would be easier for me to clean it afterwards and prepare it for any future mix. That's the reason this soft rubber cup were used for.
As soon as the plaster cast got harden, cut into shape and the concrete plaques were lined with a scriber, I used my airbrush to paint it. As I usually like to do, three different acrylic paint layers were applied on the plaster surface. First, mat black colour covered the area and then a light grey applied with airbrush, spraying in almost zero degrees angle, to let the darker areas between the concrete plaques remain naturally dark. The corner was paint with lighter grey & earth tones and as soon as the acrylic colours dried, I tried some drybrushing on selected spots using sand tones.
Catching up on the progress so far for the 1/18 Dilophosaurus figure, with a first look at the printed parts courtesy of Raul Ramos! Shown here is the Cyberzoic version, sculpted, articulated, and printed by Raul.
Hey everyone. I am getting ready to embark on this project. What would you enclude if you were going to design your own enclosure? The printer has a solid back wall and the walls on the sides come half way to the front.
1. A must, access to the top, front and sides of the printer. Either making parts of the enclosure removable or where the front and sides of the enclosure slide up high enough to be out of the way for access.
5. I have a exhaust system in the shop. I will print a exhaust port and connect it to the existing system. I will also print 2 HEPA filter housings for the air entry locations to mount through the enclosure. Making sure not to create a draft near the printing surface. Location to be determined. Thinking about mounting them in the back under or behind the expanded metal shroud?? Also possibly adding a sliding vent over the filters to control the temperature if it is to hot or to cold.
I am honestly wondering if it might be a good idea to just build a "hat" for it and 3 walls that are all single parts. That way you can still change filament and use the interface and if you get anywhere you can just take away the side or front panel or the "hat". Perhaps with magnets!?
2. Clear acrylic side panels that would side into place from the front. The front edge would have hinges that would allow a pair of doors to be added that could swing in to enclose the front of the printer. The hinges would also allow the doors to be swung back along the sides of the printer. (They would likely bump into spools that would prevent them from going fully flush with the sides.)
3. A two-part canopy where the back section would enclose the back, sides and top of the tool wire hoops. (The back section would be semi-permanent.) The front section of the canopy would be hinge-mounted to the leading top edge of the back section. The front section would enclose the sides with the top sloping downward toward the front. The front section would have prop rods to support the lid in a lifted position.
I am back printing the side panel inserts for the enclosure. I made some small changes after the first print. It almost looks like Prusa designed the printer and rail system for panels similar to what I am printing. Everything lines up perfect for independent panels for the enclosure.
A little update. Finished the first two halves for the lower sided enclosure. They came out great. All the frames will mount to the existing printer frame via the t slots. The two haves are held together with 28mm long 3mm diameter pins The assembled frame fit perfect. These frames will hold the removable acrylic panels for access. Each of the panels 2 per side take 5hrs 45min each to print.
Moving along. Finally received my roll in t-slot inserts. First ones were to thick. You have to get the short spring inserts. The ball roll in inserts will not work. Here is the final dry fit of the complete side frame before I make the removable panels. The other side is printing now.
Both lower side panels and turn locks are now printed, assembled, and fitted. Now to start working on the front. Instead of opening door I believe I am going to do 2 acrylic panels. One that slides up and one that slides down. That way I can access the upper half and the lower half of the printer. The panels will also be removable like the side inserts.
The test end caps came out perfect. The front of the enclosure will be made up of 10 printed parts. 2 on the bottom, two on the top and 3 for each side. I just pulled the end caps out of the middle section to make sure they fit over the existing end pieces and didn't interfere with the actual printing. All looks good.
I have a long print for early next week. I will print the two lower sections for the front which are L shaped. Will print them at the same time. Total print time for the 2 pieces is around 24hrs. Instead of making the lower sections of the front go around the display, I am going to move the display to the left a little and forward in front of the enclosure.
Thought I would take a little time this morning and put the acrylic panels in the lower TSlot frames. Looking good so far. The right side panel will have a vent with a 4x4 drop in filter for the exhaust system.
The aim was to convert it from a -1D into a -1A (VF-17 Jolly Rogers), greatly improve the realism in general, provide an openable engine compartment and engine accessories compartment, and improve the cockpit and gear bays and landing gear. I am especially proud of the accessories compartment:
c80f0f1006