Keys For Copying

[Channing Rupnick]

Ihave a six legged character and I have put set driven keys on two of the legs. I am following the directions in my new textbook exactly, but when I try pasting the copied channel data from one object to another I get this message.

Is there a typo in the book somewhere? I can provide screenshots of the page/s if need be. How can you actually copy and paste driven key data between objects so you need not make a set for each individual arm and leg?

of course you can copy set driven key channels(it is just an animation curve, so do it with common copy/paste method)) BUT you have to connect driver to its input so the driving curve has the input connection.

Select the driven and driver object, then Windows -> Hypergraph: Connections and there you will see the set driven curve. Select the driver object and drop it over driven curve with middle mouse button ... it will pop up the Connection Editor. By default on the right side there will be the driven curve(set the Right display to Show Non Keyable). On the left side there will be common transformation driver node. So you can select the driving attribute to connect it to .input attribute of the driven curve.

WOW...this is an old thread. Not sure what kind of offset you are thinking of. But look in the technical documentation for commands. The ones you want is "setDrivenKeyframe" and "keyframe". Once you understand how to use those commands, you can do anything you want in regards to copying, offsetting and even mirroring SDKs.

Oh, you might also need the following commands: "duplicate" if you want to copy an existing SDK curve. "connectAttr" to connect the duplicated curve to the node of your choice. "setDrivenKeyframe" will allow you to create a new SDK curve. And "keyframe" will allow you to query various properties of any anim curve...thus allowing you to apply any kind of offset you want.

As suggested by Kevin, std::views::keys was pretty much made for this. The view it produces is a lightweight object, not much more than a pointer to the range argument, which solves the ownership and lifetime issues. Iterating over this view is identical to iterating over the map, the only difference is that the view's iterator dereferences to the first element of the underlying map value.

Since ranges and concepts go hand in hand, I've used the std::ranges::view to constrain the auto return type. This is a useful way to let the compiler and user of your function know that it will return a particular category of object, without having to specify a potentially complicated type.

With the old DTS data copy wizard in SQL 2000 you could copy data to a table that was being referenced by a foreign key and the copy operation would work fine. It must have automatically recognized that there was a foreign key and suspended enforcement during the copy. However, in SQL 2005 there is apparently no option to stop enforcement of foreign keys temporarily, thus the file copy bombs out with errors because it isn't able to truncate the destination table. We have low tech admins who perform lots of various data copies every day and whenever there is a foreign key referencing the destination table they have to first script it, delete it, and then recreate it when the copy is done. This creates a lot of room for human error. I realize that I could probably write a SSIS package which includes the functionality to temporarily not enforce the foreign keys but that is not ideal since I'd have to do it on a case by case basis, since every data copy operation is different. Any suggestions? Anything you can recommend is greatly appreciated.

Buy a copy of SQL Data Compare - it will compare data in any number of tables on the same server or separate servers and create a script to sync the tables - the script will automatically drop and recreate any foreign keys - it is invaluable!

I want to transfer all my GnuPG keys from a computer with Ubuntu to one with Fedora. I wonder if I can just copy all the keys in the .gnupg folder and then import them on the Fedora computer or if is better to use --export with --output? I have practiced this in the past, but it took so much trial and error, I am afraid I might do it the wrong way and lose data. I would appreciate a sample command for export of multiple(2) keys to files if that is the way to go.

If you also want to copy your secret keys, run both --export and --export-secret-keys and start with importing the secret keys. Also don't forget to migrate trust (--export-ownertrust/--import-ownertrust).

If you are scared about data loss: as long as you just copy the files from your old computer (and don't change them there), you can start from scratch at any time. Also -- you've got an up-to-date backup of your files anyway, haven't you?

This Instructable will walk you through the steps required to copy a key just like secret agents do in movies. This includes making the impression of the key and casting it in zinc metal. Note that while copying keys that you own is absolutely fine, copying somebody else's key without permission or with malicious intent is almost certainly an offense punishable by law.

I really enjoyed the process of creating this key copy, mostly because I was shocked to discover that it actually worked. What had started as an offhand, careless afternoon activity turned into a viable copy of my house key. Enough small talk - let's begin key smithing!

As I said before, this project was not very planned. I was bored and wanted to make a copy of my key in one day, so I had to get creative in order to accomplish the whole process in one day. Thus, some of the steps listed here may be less than standard, but hey - they worked!

I used dried-out carpenter's wood filler paste as the base material for my molding compound. It was the first good item that I saw around the house. If you replicate this project, you should mix around 3/4 cup of wood filler with a very small amount of water. Mix it well; it should be a soupy paste. Next, add some flour to your paste until it becomes thicker. Eventually, you should be able to remove it from your mixing container and then knead it like bread dough.

Grab your key and some Pam (or other) baking spray and get ready to bake some metal-casting bread! Once you have your key and know its general size, make a cardboard box to hold the molding compound. You can do this by cutting an oblong plus sign into some cardboard and then taping up the arms of the plus. Then, press about half of your molding compound into the box and pack it in tightly. There should still be about half of the depth of the box left for the other half of the mold.

Once the key is in the mold half, dry the mold out the harden it. Since my family has a bird in the house and birds are sensitive to poor air quality, placing my mold in the oven and baking the heck out of it was not an option (possible fumes could be problematic). Thus, I has to get creative again. I used a powerful work lamp as a makeshift oven to sufficiently dry the mold face out. I placed the lamp directly over the mold and made sure that there wasn't much space between the mold and the bulb. Surprisingly, the mold got quite hot in the miniature "oven." Just a note of warning as I write this - keep an eye on your mold to be ready in case anything goes awry. The insurance company would have a good laugh if you told them you burned your house down using a lamp as an oven. :)

When you disassemble your mold to remove the key later, you will need a reliable way to reassemble it. Use a drill bit and a drill/drill press to make four shallow holes in your mold block. These will translate into bumps on your second mold block that will line up every time.

Now, re-grease the mold face and take out the rest of your molding "dough." Firmly press it into the cardboard box, making sure to press the dough into all the details on the key. Then, place the entire assembly back under the lamp "oven" for a while.

Once the mold has baked for a while, take it out and slice off the cardboard box. Mine had absorbed some water so it was very soft and easy to remove. Put the mold back into the lamp "oven" to bake for a while longer.

After the mold is hard enough to knock knuckles firmly on, take the mold halves apart. The grease should have made a non-stick layer, so they should release easily. Remove the key carefully with the edge of a knife or flathead screwdriver and return it to its proper place.

Now that the mold is dried out, we need a way for the metal to enter the key impression. Using a utility knife or small coping saw, cut away at the top of the key mold to create a sprue channel for the metal to flow down into the key. I added mouseovers on the first picture to illustrate where these are located. It helps during the metal pour if you make the top of the sprue wider, like a funnel.

Additinally, the air inside the key impression must be displaced by the molten metal. To facilitate that process, cut some tiny air vents in the mold. Don't make them too big, or the metal will flow right on out of your mold. Foreshadowing!

Zinc is a great metal for casting this project, so grab some pennies made after 1982. You will probably want about 10. Also get a torch, propane or otherwise, and cut a soup can down to about 1" of side wall. This will be your crucible.

Put the pennies in your crucible and hold the crucible with some long-handled pliers. Apply the torch to the pennies and don't by shy - zinc needs a fair bit of heat to melt with a torch. Once the pennies are molten, scrape off the copper shells with a screwdriver. The screwdriver should not be harmed in this process - any metal stuck to the head can be easily pried off.

After you can see the shiny surface of the molten zinc, pour it into your funnel-shaped sprue on your mold in a smooth motion. Don't pour it too fast or else you run the risk of spilling. It is fine if the metal overflows from the sprue - this will just be removed in a later step.

Here is where the project gets really interesting. When I melted what I thought was an ingot made from a zinc wheel weight, it melted within seconds. Maybe 15 of them. Surprising for zinc. Or maybe it wasn't zinc... I poured the metal into the mold and it promptly ran out the bottom. This is why it is good to have something under your mold to catch any mishaps. Apparently, I had a crack in my mold seam.

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