Shell 0w20 Hybrid
Joseph
Pipercross as recommended by Tony as a trusted eBay supplier have Syntium on offer on their website for 25 delivered, looks like a good deal and looks like a proper business, not some dodgy counterfeit supplier!
Hi Tony. Do you know by any chance if this oil is low SAPS? It's not specified on the data sheet. I've heard different opinions such as "if it is not low SAPS it will clog the catalytic converter". Thanks
I've seen your post regarding the trip around Europe. I'd like to mention that mine has 146k miles at the moment and I am using it a lot and by a lot I mean that I am a ph driver in London and this summer I would like to drive all the way to my home country Romania. I am changing the oil about 3-4 times per year hence I am looking for the best price/quality option. I have used Toyota's 0w20 a few times but it's quite expensive and I have no clue if it's genuine or not. Bought it off eBay from e-hybrid which came to my attention from a previous post that they are selling fakes. Switched to Mobil Super 3000 XE 5w30 but the price varies a lot and on its data sheet says thay should be drained before 7.5k miles ( I have also notice a slight mpg decrease with Mobil Super but nothing to worry about I would say)
Anyways, I find annoying the fact that for the rest of the Syntium 7000 range e.g. 7000 AV or 7000 FJ it is clearly stated that it's low saps but no info for 7000 Hybrid. However your opinion is reassuring and I will give Petronas a try
I have a Nissan Sentra 2014. I wanted to start using full synthetic oil, and the manual said I should use 0W-20. I changed both the oil and the filter (I used this one), and after finishing I realized I used 0W-30 instead.
This is not a serious issue. You can probably even get by using 0W-30, especially since you are in an area which is usually warm. If you were in a colder area up north somewhere, I'd highly suggest you change it out. If you do decide to change it out, don't worry too much about the filter. I'd take the filter down and drain out what's in it, but put some clean oil back on the gasket and put it back in. The little bit of leftover 0W-30 is not going to cause any issues.
One of the issues with running a heavier weight oil is that your bearing clearances are set by the factory to accept the thinner oil. By having the thicker oil in the crankcase, you run the risk of bearing damage. I think with where you live the chance is mighty small, but it's still there. If your car is really new, I'd highly suggest you change the oil out. When a car is newer, the bearing tolerances are even tighter. Seeing as how your car is a 2014, there has probably been at least three or four oil changes done to it, so it shouldn't be an issue.
It is interesting how people think they know the answers. Let's break down what oil viscosity means, and how it applies to engine use. First of all, "thicker" oil is NOT physically thicker. It is more like being more "clingy". The actual measurement of the oil molecules is pretty much the same whether 20 weight oil or 40 weight oil. It is the additives that make it thicker or thinner.
Let's use 5W30 as a reference. The 5 represents how thick the oil is cold, and as a reference, "not thicker than 5 weight oil at -40.". The "W" represents winter cold starts. So at this point whether 5 weight or 0 weight, 0 weight would give better cold start protection. The 30 represents "not thinner than 30 weight oil at operating temperatures.
The only concern for newer engines would be how the systems sensors, actuators etc would work with the different oil viscosities. For example the VVT actuators may not work as well with the different oils. Trying won't hurt except to hinder performance and fuel economy.
If you want to research, check websites that explain oil technology and be very wary of forums from people who want to give you "good advice". My advice is, if you are not sure, use manufactures recommended oil and oil change intervals.
Some owners manuals will suggest that a higher viscosity oil may be used under certain conditions. My 2021 Toyota RAV4 Prime (a plug in hybrid) manual "recommends" 0W-16 but then says "An oil with a higher viscosity may be better suited if the vehicle is operated at high speeds, or extreme load conditions." The manual does not further explain these conditions but the attendant Warranty and Maintenance Guide defines "Special Operating Conditions" as "Driving while towing, using a car top carrier, or heavy vehicle loading."
The owners manual for my 2014 Honda Accord Plug In does NOT allow for the possibility of using a higher viscosity oil. It simply states to "use" 0W-20. Same thing for my ordinary Honda Accord Hybrid. So I've stayed with 0W-20 in these. I have 60,000 miles on the regular hybrid and it uses no detectable amount of oil between oil changes running around 6 to 7 thousand miles. Using a high quality brand of 100% synthetic, of course. 40,000 miles on the plug in Accord and again, no detectable oil loss between changes.
Passenger cars and SUVs achieve maximum weight capacity simply by filling them with passengers and luggage. I have seen high speed driving defined in these manuals as 70 MPH or more. So if you plan to ever fill your vehicle up with people, drive it on a high speed interstate, or like to accelerate hard, pull a trailer, mount a roof top carrier, the car manufacturer is strongly hinting you might not be best served with the "recommended" viscosity.
A 0W-20 oil is a 0 weight oil with viscosity improvers (VIs) that allow it to function as a 20W oil at operating temperature. These VIs are long chain molecules that are broken down as the mileage accumulates on the oil. So that means that 20W rating is gradually decreasing. By the time you need to change that 0W-20 oil it has become 0W-??. I'd rather not start this process with the 0W-16 that is only OK if you don't plan to push the vehicle very hard.
My plan is to go one weight higher where the owner's manuals allow it on the basis of extreme use. From 0W-16 to 0W-20 and from 0W-20 to 0W-30. Where there is no such allowance made by the manufacturer, I will stay with the recommendation.
I did the same thing today except I used 20 and vehicle calls for 30 since it has a turbo. I wasn't sure if this was going to be an issue but actually ow-20 far out performs ow-30 oil which is why it's more expensive, here is a really good write up of the differences. Essentially 0w-30 does not protect your engine nearly as well as 0w-20 but is ideal for more extreme temperatures (temperatures of over 400F).
While the 0w30 motor oil promises to protect your engine from tear, the 0w20 motor oil does this in a more outstanding and dramatic way. According to a study that was carried out with the 0w20 motor oil, it was revealed that this motor oil leaves your motor parts about four times (4) smoother.
The 0w20 motor oil offers you a much more superior wear and tear protection on some of the essential or vital parts of the engine. The 0w30 motor oil, on the other hand, does not offer you the same assurance. When it comes to viscosity breakdown, the 0w20 motor oil happens to offer you a higher and unsurpassed level of protection that the 0w30 motor oil cannot offer.
I drive an SUV for transcontinental trips from Arctic Canada to Belize. I have experimented with oils for five or six years in many road and weather conditions and at altitudes varying from sea level to 9000+ ASL. Whether the ambient air temperature is -30F or +35F the 4 liter V6 in my Xterra has run smoother and quieter, especially during the critical 'Start-up' phase; that first 30 seconds after turning the key. That's where automotive engineers agree that between 90-95% of all engine wear occurs. Use only 'SN' (an API oil classification) full synthetic oil with a bottom end of 0W and you will not go far wrong. Listen closely to your motor during that critical first 30 second warm-up before you put your vehicle into motion. The sounds and vibrations will tell you how well it likes (or dislikes) the oil you're using. All the best,JC Bradshaw
2012 honda civic(r18a engine) 1.8l(manufactured in canada) driven in austin texas for 3yrs(102k miles) book says 0w20 and to use 5w20 in emergency then to change back to 0w20 next service interval(not asap??)
c80f0f1006