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There is, after all, much to feel envious about, the least of which is Paws Up's sheer amount of land and sky, things city slickers don't realize they need until they've been plunked into 37,000 acres of nothing but. Though the hospitality biz is the main moneymaker here, the ranch, once owned by hall-of-fame aviator Charles Lindbergh, is still a working cattle operation, although there are only a few hundred heads on the whole expanse. (When I was there, I heard nary a moo, but then again, when you've got space of this magnitude, the utter quiet is also something you can't help but notice. Once during my visit, I did, to my amazement, hear the wings of a bald eagle flap in the wind as it flew low before my very eyes.)
I was probably a little disappointed with my first impression of Pordenone. Knowing the neighbouring cities of Udine, Bassano and Treviso, I had expected more narrow streets, cascading flowers and elegantly symmetrical columns and pilasters.Instead I found myself surrounded by two-toned functionalism and a satellite suburbia feeling from the moment we left the vintage decor of Hotel Italia.
Pordenone is a perfectly ordinary north Italian city. It lives a quiet life that does not attract great masses of tourists. If you do stop by, regardless, here are a few suggestions of what to do or what I found to be the highlights of our visit.
In Italy, the rationalist movement of the 1920s and 1930s wanted to create space defined by the materials and the purpose of the structure. They believed that the challenges of the real world could only be solved by logic and reason, leaving no room for vain and superfluous decorations.
I found reminiscences of Arezzo in the exterior wall papers, saw traces of Anagni in the earth toned colour schemes and heard echoes of Bolzano in gateways leading into the dense and hidden Medieval heart of the city. Apart from frescoes in intricate patterns and subtle colours, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II led to the discovery of great shops, classy outdoor cafes and serious restaurants. If you are planning a night out in Pordenone, this is the place to go.
As we approached the river Noncello, the main street was blocked by the quaint, old Town Hall that floated like an island in the middle of the road. The trapeze shaped building dates back to the 13th and 14th centuries and it displays several Gothic traits with pointed arches, three towers and the double loggia of a ground floor veranda beneath a stately balcony.
The astronomical clock that apart from keeping track of the time displays the location of the moon and the sun in the sky was added later, along with the two stone figures who strike the hour on a brass bell.
It turns out that the name derives from the latin Portus Naonis meaning the port of the river Naone Noncello, and that the area has been inhabited since Roman times. The river was the life nerve connecting Pordenone to Venice and the Adriatic Sea, and for centuries boats ferried passengers and goods to the city.
Today, it is mostly canoes that traffic the Noncello. A narrow waterway overgrown with trees and bushes. In summer a tour boat offers free boating excursions for those who have booked tickets beforehand.
Unfortunately, we were not aware of this offer, so instead we explored the Riviera del Pordenone. It was a warm summer night, when Italy played Germany in the UEFA EURO quarter finals and there were big screens and football fans everywhere. We all cheered loudly every time Italy scored in the penalty shoot-out. Yet there was no animosity or trouble, when Germany won. People just sighed and went home. The next morning the Riviera had been taken over by a food festival offering a variety of corncobs, strudel, waffles, sfogliatine, spices, flowers, honey, donkey milk and other local produce.
How did you find out about the bands and people who were the precursors for NYHC?
Louie Rivera: I was working the door at a club named Tier 3, which was just around the corner from the Mudd Club at the time. Working there exposed me to not only the local music but bands that were coming in like the Specials. Bands that were moving and grooving before the whole Hardcore scene. There was that whole pogo thing going on before the Hardcore mosh pit thing had people coming in droves.
Dave expanded his thing and opened up the 2+2 space. I was working the door there. The first time I saw Antidote, they were playing there as a three-piece. It was an extension of A7. He had ten or twenty bands at night for three or five bucks. What I loved about that place was how raw it was. You had to be careful, man. You had an elevator shaft right in the middle of the floor. There was an element of danger in the building!
But there were legitimate reasons for those people having questions. There was some stuff that was going on in temples in West Virginia at the time that was not going to do the movement any good. But sometimes you gotta take the rug and give it a good shaking out, you know?
How did you find out about the bands and people who were the precursors for NYHC?
Louie Rivera: I was working the door at a club named Tier 3, which was just around the corner from the Mudd Club at the time. Working there exposed me to not only the local music but bands that were coming in like the Specials. Bands that were moving and grooving before the whole Hardcore scene. There was that whole pogo thing going on before the Hardcore mosh pit thing had people coming in droves.
One afternoon I was hanging out on the Lower East Side doing nothing. It was a Sunday afternoon or something like that. I ran into Harley just around the corner from his mothers\u2019 house and asked what I was doing. I told him that I had no plans for the day. He was heading up to Central Park. In the summer back then, they would have the Rock Against Racism shows up there. He was going up to see a band from D.C. called the Bad Brains and that\u2019s pretty much it. When I saw them that day, they gave me that total shock treatment vibe. I had never seen anything like that before. My life was changed from that point on.
What do you remember about The Mad?
Back then, it was very rare that you saw a Stimulators show that The Mad wasn\u2019t on the bill. They used to play a lot together. The Bad Brains were doing shows with The Mad, too. They would swap off shows between D.C. and New York. By then, the Bad Brains hadn\u2019t run out of venues to play in D.C. This was before they were forced to leave D.C. with no other choice. They had nowhere to turn but New York. Dave Hahn (drummer for The Mad) had a lot to do with them coming to New York. They stayed with him when they came. He and Harley were the ones that introduced me to the Bad Brains. The day they played at Central Park after they played, we all went down to Nick Marden\u2019s house. H.R. came down there with Dr. Know and we all hung out in Nick\u2019s living room.
How important was Nick Marden to the development of NYHC?
Nick Marden was just this cool fuckin\u2019 kid that a lot of people knew. He was on the scene really deep. He was one of the kids that used to dress up a little bondage-like. He\u2019d have straps on his legs and stuff like that. He used to actually wear a kilt too! He was a real unique individual. When I first saw Nick, I was like \u2018Wow, that\u2019s pretty punk rock!\u2019 But he was a very approachable and gentle person.
At that point, it was still very underground and word of mouth. You\u2019d just pull out a pen and make up a flyer with some writing paper. We didn\u2019t have money to think about going to Kinko\u2019s. It was very family-oriented in the sense that when there was a show, everybody knew each other. There were maybe twenty or thirty people that were coming.
What about The Mob and the people from Queens?
I used to meet little Ralphie Boy and Jose at their work. It was this little book depository place up on 18th Street in Chelsea. I\u2019d meet them and get on the 7 train and go all the fuck out the way to Queens and watch them dudes rehearse every night. They were jamming in Ralph\u2019s garage in the back of his mother\u2019s house. The beautiful thing about it was at the end of practice, Ralph would invite us into the house and we\u2019d go upstairs and have an herb session. After the herb session, we\u2019d be down in the kitchen and Ralphie would be feeding us. Before we went out the door, before we trekked it back to fuckin\u2019 Manhattan, he\u2019d make sure we had a belly full of food. Those dudes were doing their thing pretty deep for years. That garage got lit up every night.
Kenny Hearns wound up being the singer for Urban Waste. He and his friends lived right around the corner, so they would come to hang out as well. We just had fun in that garage. They\u2019d be practicing and we\u2019d be bouncing off the walls.
What about the Ratcage store?
Ratcage is now out of the basement of 171 A where it started out at. He\u2019s got his shop on 9th Street already. Dave Parsons; God bless him. He was never the type of dude who wouldn\u2019t let you hang out if you weren\u2019t buying something. If you had no place to go and it was cold out, he\u2019d make some hot cocoa and invite you inside.
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