Nice work RC. Here are a few additional related items:
1) It is possible to use 2 plates on each strut. By having one on the top and bottom, it is possible to "set" the axial angle. Although a longer bolt is necessary (unless 2 short ones are used for each of top and bottom hub), having a short spacer, like a short piece of pipe in between or stack of washers can add stability if needed.
Also, putting a ring (slice of pipe or round block) in the center helps increase the compression strength of the hub, especially if the strut ends are cut at the axial angle. However, the simplicity of what you show has its advantages unless more strength/stability is needed.
2) The arrangement you nicely illustrated for lumber can also work for tubing or other shapes by clamping, metal screws or other means of attachment. One could also bend the strap axially to a matching curvature, but it would have to be worth the work. This could also be done with a roll former, although it pays to keep the bolt hole flat. Lots of people have used hose clamps to attach perforated plumbers strap to various pipe/tubing struts for a quick light weight dome frame.
3) Several of those metal strap companies also sell a "gazebo" connector which is pretty handy. Simpson GT6Z for example. They come in 8's, 10's and several others, other companies offer a 5 (for pent). They have some limitations but also offer some convenience.
There is also the star plate that has been around for decades. The face angle is fixed, but different axial angles can be accommodated with a wedge.
However, an advantage to your approach is that it allows for any face or axial angle. Simple is best as long as simple provides adequate performance. As they say in engineering, perfection is when nothing more can be taken away.
- DxG