"da Vinci" reciprocal-frame dome - Japanese

[TaffGoch]

Japanese artist, Hiroshi Murata, has been busy working on his "da Vinci dome," which is a reciprocal-frame geodesic dome. (Regular readers here already know that this geometry is also referred to as a "nexorade." )

Hiroshi has posted to his blog & website, photos and descriptions. Here are several links, with Japanese-to-English translation already configured:

http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&u=http://www.hiroshi-murata.com/home/the-da-vinci-dome

http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&u=http://www.hiroshi-murata.com/home/the-da-vinci-dome/davu-inchi-domuno-zhi-zuo

http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&u=http://www.hiroshi-murata.com/home/topic/howtomakethedavincidome

http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&u=http://3rd-architecture.blogspot.com/2011/09/assembling-new-geodesic-dome.html

http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&u=http://3rd-architecture.blogspot.com/2011/09/modeling-of-new-geodesic-dome.html

http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&u=http://www.hiroshi-murata.com/home/topic/domedpergolaii

http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&u=http://www.hiroshi-murata.com/domed-pergola/domede-pergola-globe

_______________

Actually, there are two projects, his "da Vinci" dome, and his "domed pergola" (last two attached photos)

-Taff

[TaffGoch]

Hiroshi apparently has a Word document available, but I haven't yet found out how to access it (if it is, indeed, publicly accessible.)

-Taff

[TaffGoch]

Here is my animated depiction of the nexorade development -- being the same frequency (3v) that Hiroshi is using for his "Da Vinci Dome"

http://taffgoch.deviantart.com/gallery/#/d3gpweh

[TaffGoch]

I've modeled Hiroshi Murata's sphere, using curved strips, comparable to the bamboo strips he used.

The attached model is of unit radius. By scaling the entire model, using the SketchUp "Tape Measure" tool, the strip lengths and crossing-points can be measured to produce a dome of the desired size.

The strips are in a hidden layer, and include the hole locations for pinning or bolting them together where they cross.

No provision for thickness is provided, so real-world strips should be made of thin, mildly-flexible material. (You don't want them too flexible, or it won't assume a spherical shape. With mild rigidity, it becomes a tensioned sphere.)

Tags: rotegrity, nexorade, reciprocal frame

-Taff

[TaffGoch]

Biagio gained access to the Hiroshi Murata Word document, and kindly provided me a copy. 

(It's in Japanese, but you may be able to determine the strip lengths and cross-over-point measurements, since they appear to be metric.)

[Biagio Di Carlo]

The model is similar but not equal to the dome from 

Hiroshi  as you used 5 strips and not 4 as he did.

He writes in fb : " The member consist basically of four types .

Its identity is evident in the color of the end of the member.
Pile and brick are intended for the ground and fixed structure".

Thank you very much for this very interesting  drawing!

bdc

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the "Geodesic Help" Google Group
--
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to GeodesicHelp...@googlegroups.com
--
To post to this group, send email to geodes...@googlegroups.com
--
For more options, visit http://groups.google.com/group/geodesichelp?hl=en

[TaffGoch]

Biagio,

I noticed that Hiroshi's straps weren't evenly-divided by three, for
the intersections. He also compromised, somewhat, to get 4 straps,
instead of 5.

I took efforts to make mine more-evenly-divided. Even so, mine are not
exactly divisible by three. I could get the divisions closer-to-equal,
if I took more time. (It's a manual iterative process, which I've done
before for other frequencies.)

When bad weather next keeps me indoors, I may tweak it some more.

-Taff

[TaffGoch]

Biagio,

I tweaked the model a bit, and, as a beneficial result, the yellow and lavender straps are virtually identical -- so much alike that the difference can be ignored.

Therefore, there are 4 strap lengths, each evenly divided by 3. The division is not perfect, but is close enough that using this model for construction of a bamboo dome will not be hampered. The equal (3rds) division remains an improvement over Murata's unequally-divided version. My straps can not be mistakenly reversed, end-for-end, which should make assembly less confusing.

-Taff

[Biagio Di Carlo]

Dear Taff,

thank you for the new drawing.

Please can you add the four straps separately?

BDC

[TaffGoch]

Biagio,

I'm not sure that I understand your request.

__________________

If you are looking for the straps, laid-out flat, they are already in the model, in a hidden layer.

Turn off the SketchUp "Fog," to get rid of the black background. Look in the "Layer" window to find the straps, both curved and flattened.

You will also want to choose from the menu bar, "View > Edge Style > Display Edges" and "View > Guides"

____________________

I am assuming that you know how to scale the entire model, using the "Tape Measure" tool to "measure" the sphere radius (currently, 1.0) then immediately typing the desired radius. SketchUp will ask, "Do you want to resize the model? [Yes] [No] "

You can then directly measure the strap hole-spacing & length dimensions, without having to do any conversions.

-Taff

[Biagio Di Carlo]

Dear Taff,

I have found the straps in the hidden layer.

Thank you very much again.

bdc

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the "Geodesic Help" Google Group
--
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to GeodesicHelp...@googlegroups.com
--
To post to this group, send email to geodes...@googlegroups.com
--
For more options, visit http://groups.google.com/group/geodesichelp?hl=en

[TaffGoch]

Biagio,

I have made changes to make the flat straps more-easily accessible. I added a "scene 2" that will take you right to the flat straps, and I added the dimensions to the that scene display (image attached.)

I'm glad you asked for this, because, while I was doing the above, I FOUND AN ERROR in the FLAT yellow strap length. The curved "masters" are correct, as are the yellow straps in the spherical model.

I must have made an error, when I was "flattening" the straps. It has been CORRECTED in the model below.

-Taff

[TaffGoch]

As they say, "3rd time is a charm...."

Yellow hole spacing was corrected, but I forgot to check yellow strap overall length.

Attached are the corrected "measures" image, along with the corrected model.

-Taff

[Biagio Di Carlo]

Well done!

bdc

[TaffGoch]

Biagio,

I saw the photo (attached below) that you posted on facebook, and modeled a nexorade to match.

While the intersection nodes of Hiroshi's struts are not evenly subdivided (by 3,) they DO provide near-vertical struts around the equator.

With the nexorade rotation (33°) that I modeled, these vertical struts can be lengthened, to raise the height of the dome, as depicted. The real-world construction benefits provided by these vertical struts is obvious, when building a dome instead of a sphere.

So, I have to say that, when building an artistic sphere, I prefer even node subdivision, but for a dome, a simple 33° nexorade rotation is more useful.

-Taff

[Biagio Di Carlo]

Taff,

I agree with the possibility  (for every  dome) 

to gain vertical struts around the equator.

bdc

[Hector Alfredo Hernández Hdez.]

So do I.

[nick]

i have been out of commission for a while due to carpal tunnel
recovery and wonder how practical one of these might be for
construction. they seem to make cute models as pictured, but what
about adding plywood sheathing? i need a shed to hold the tractor,
implements, and mower.

>  402420_372506132759445_100000001848197_1513473_1466688324_n.jpg
> 117KViewDownload
>
>  Nexorade; 3v, Murata.png
> 229KViewDownload

[Paul Kranz]

Nick:

I prefer to nail the sheathing to a frame on the ground. The more daring prefer to do it in the air. The big difference between sheathing a conventional roof and a dome roof is you apply glue. Back in the early 80's dome home manufacturers were using Resorcinol glue (http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=2060). It was used mainly for flooring. Not only waterproof, but wood glued together with Resorcinol stays bonded even under the sea. It is painted on as opposed to laid down by a bead. I would go with CDX plywood with the C side to the outside. Nail the sheathing to the struts or frame with 8d ring or nail scews at least 2-1/4" O.C. Then place a bead of sealant between the joints and cover the joints with waterproof tape. Now the tar paper goes on and the shingles. My preference is to shingle the structure all the way to the ground-- after all a dome is a roof!

Paul sends...  

[nuconz]

thanks for the reply paul.

this design appears to employ "overlapping" struts.  this is why i asked the question.  i've never seen even a model with sheathing...

[nuconz]

purposeful writing:

CTS due to injury not google sketchup.  but wouldn't the courts love this one?

with no responses to the sheathing on this "cool" model, it would seem that this design is not practical for implementation.


On 02/27/2012 05:32 AM, Escribir Adrede wrote:

carpal tunnel due to Google UpSketching? my one and only back-hand attempt (I solved it with EFT, and has not came back)  happend while doing thunderous Sketching (I mean trial+error+forgetting commands) with a laptop ---no mouse added--- on helpful models by geodesichelp's Taff and many others 

EFT can be done mechanically (thanks to a "basic recipe") with a minimum of belief (like doing domes in GS "without doing any math" as posted here) 

http://www.eft-therapy.com/Intro_Eft_Manual.pdf (for a free manual, that I have not read thoroghly, but seems to be ok)

http://www.amazon.com/EFT-Manual-Gary-Craig/dp/1604150661/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1330337493&sr=8-1 (for the authorized and published by the author manual)

I see in Amazon, that there are other specialized manual on back pain by the same author Gary Craig... don't know if I would recommend you to combine the free booklet above + the book on back pain; or whatever combination: "reading the hundreds entrances on EFT in the net, buying both books by Craig, etc"... but it works and is worthwhile to get rid of pain before it installs any further... Cheers

Gerardo

2012/2/26 nick <nuc...@gmail.com>

--

[TaffGoch]

For József Hornyik,

I've attached the SketchUp 3D model file, for the domed version of the Murata 3v nexorade.

-Taff

[CodeXmonk]

Dear Taff,

Thank you for your very quick reaction! It is a great help for me.

A little explanation of why I asked your help:

I saw your work earlier and as a result I had an idea – 00.jpg

After I saw Murata vault the idea changed a little – 01.jpg and 02.jpg

And I turned again to your work (teaching!-) to learn how and what I can do – 03.jpg and 04.jpg

Than I was not sure that it could be done in reality...

But later I found Roskilde Dome that is real and almost the same idea... :-)

Now I would like to try to build something that is real and more simple (next year or so...)

and I think Murata’s dome could be the first step.

Thank you so much again for your help!

Best Regards,

József Hornyik (code...@gmail.com)

[norm...@gmail.com]

I have some wood strips that would be perfect for this.  How many strips are needed for a smaller dome?  I see this Da Vinci one that Taff model is 3V, has anyone tried a 2V?

thanks

[muhammad karim Toury]

Hi

I made up a rotegrity sphere like your model in photo CIMG0486.JPG but in smaller scale by aluminium tube  (8 mm in diameter) and joints were by means of wires. Joint holes on every element are linear and they are not at the right angle (photos attached). Now I want to make up a bigger one and join them by bolts and I need the right angles in order to drill the elements. I need help to find the exact and precise angles.

thank you
On Saturday, November 19, 2011 at 12:19:37 AM UTC+3:30, TaffGoch wrote:

Japanese artist, Hiroshi Murata, has been busy working on his "da Vinci dome," which is a reciprocal-frame geodesic dome. (Regular readers here already know that this geometry is also referred to as a "nexorade." )

Hiroshi has posted to his blog & website, photos and descriptions. Here are several links, with Japanese-to-English translation already configured:

http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&u=http://www.hiroshi-murata.com/home/the-da-vinci-dome

http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&u=http://www.hiroshi-murata.com/home/the-da-vinci-dome/davu-inchi-domuno-zhi-zuo

http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&u=http://www.hiroshi-murata.com/home/topic/howtomakethedavincidome

http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&u=http://3rd-architecture.blogspot.com/2011/09/assembling-new-geodesic-dome.html

http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&u=http://3rd-architecture.blogspot.com/2011/09/modeling-of-new-geodesic-dome.html

http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&u=http://www.hiroshi-murata.com/home/topic/domedpergolaii

http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&u=http://www.hiroshi-murata.com/domed-pergola/domede-pergola-globe

_______________

Actually, there are two projects, his "da Vinci" dome, and his "domed pergola" (last two attached photos)

-Taff