Polygon panel construction

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Craig Moorhouse

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Feb 10, 2010, 11:46:41 AM2/10/10
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Taff

I finished a rough model of my idea for building panels for the "Bucky House" using 20 gauge galvanized steel. Two steel channels (silver) are held apart the width of a standard 2"x4" with the use of steel "spacer" brackets (gold) - These spacers would have a height of around 3 1/4 "  to allow the 2 x 4" to stick out 1" above the exterior surface of the polygon ( to allow an air space for condensation and for bolt heads) and 1/4" for the interior surface ( to allow for the height of bolt heads). 
I would like to hear any ones thoughts on this design - building this panel was more time consuming then the actual "Bucky House" model was so I will welcome any ideas before I start a more detailed models of polygon and pentagon panels.

Thank you for your time

Craig Moorhouse
panels.jpg
panels 2.jpg
polygon panel.jpg
polygon panel 1.jpg
polygon panel interior.jpg
polygon panel parts.jpg

TaffGoch

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Feb 10, 2010, 5:45:51 PM2/10/10
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You mention allowing for condensation. I'm unsure of your provisions
for "shedding" rainwater/snow.

Much of the descriptions of DIY domes in Domebook2 include comments
about leakage. There is a LOT online about these problems. (Search for
"smart, but not wise")

You should note that most conventional housing relies on overlapping
construction materials and shedding. They are NOT water-PROOF, but
water-resistant. When you try seal adjoining panels/components, to
make a structure waterproof, you have to allow for seasonal/thermal
expansion/contraction (and "breathing" to allow for vapor
remediation.)

I can't tell, from your imagery, how you are going to prevent leakage.
The best consumer examples of waterproof construction are skylights
and automobiles. In both cases, flexible "rubber" gaskets are
employed, as well as flexible caulking. (Flexibility and adhesion
characteristics are designed to provide for expansion/contraction.)

Using metal, you're going to have to allow for thermal expansion.
Using wood, you have to consider humidity expansion. Either way, if
you get anything wrong, you're going to suffer leakage. (And, if your
wood gets wet, and has no way to properly dry-out, you get rot.)
___________________

I'm currently putting a metal roof on my house, and it isn't designed
to be waterproof. It sheds water, as do shingled roofs. Reading the
literature was interesting, because it includes discussions about wind
loads and wind-driven water getting through overlapping seams, as well
as capillary "suction" that could potentially lead to leaks.

All this is to say that you should rely on current architectural-
design science and proven construction techniques. I suppose that's
why the good architects get the big money!

I've learned that my DIY structure projects may not stand-up to the
ravages of weather and time. (I started with greenhouses, because it
doesn't matter that much if they leak a little bit, and they "breathe"
by design.)

Taff

Ego Martini

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Feb 10, 2010, 9:41:22 PM2/10/10
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Taff

Once again - I came to the same conclusion as you while at work.
I've been working with sketch-up since the summer and I've been
learning how to use it by trial and error - I see something that I
like and I try to "reverse engineer" it and doing so I've learnt much
about sketch-up and with your help and my "Bucky House" project I've
made great progress. Something that I didn't try until this morning
was using the tape measure as a scaling tool (sad to say) - that
reality opened things up for me " the whole model any size I want.
This revelation has made a task like designing and building a dome a
very possible reality. With this revelation I decided my best approach
would be small and simple - small wooden panels (polygons 8 ft across)
with a thickness of about 4 inches. Such a dome could be used as a
small cabin retreat or a shed.If this doesn't work out for me ( as did
many other sketch-up project I have worked on) it doesn't matter
because my main objective with any S.K. project I've work on is to
gain more knowledge about 3 dimensional modeling .

Thank you for your valuable help you have provided.
Craig

TaffGoch

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Feb 10, 2010, 10:51:53 PM2/10/10
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Craig,
 
Note that, if you are editing INSIDE the context of a group or component, the measuring-tape rescale feature affects only the contents of that group/component. The remainder of the model, outside the group, is not affected.
 
This makes it easy to resize PARTS of a model, without "damaging" any other critical geometry.

Craig Moorhouse

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Oct 31, 2012, 12:50:34 PM10/31/12
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Hello Taff

I was wondering what kind of geodesic dome this is - I'm having a hard time placing it. It is modified so ten trapezoids extend down to form a 10 sided wall. It would be nice to build one of these in sk so I have a look inside one.
thank you for your time.
Craig Moorhouse 
24diagram.bmp

TaffGoch

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Oct 31, 2012, 2:58:09 PM10/31/12
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Craig,

If the drawing is correct, then it's a frequency-4, class-I, icosahedron subdivision (employing Kruschke's method.)

-Taff
Class I; 4v, Kruschke.png
Class I; 4v, Kruschke.skp

Gerry in Quebec

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Oct 31, 2012, 3:13:02 PM10/31/12
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Yes, exactly. It's an Econdome by Wil Fidroeff in Illinois.

http://www.econodome.com/

- Gerry Toomey
>  Class I; 4v, Kruschke.png
> 91KViewDownload
>
>  Class I; 4v, Kruschke.skp
> 41KViewDownload

Gerry in Quebec

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Oct 31, 2012, 3:55:31 PM10/31/12
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Taff,
Isn't he your next-door neighbour, at last by Canadian distance
standards?
- Gerry

TaffGoch

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Oct 31, 2012, 3:58:36 PM10/31/12
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Yep, about an hour away. (60 miles)

TaffGoch

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Oct 31, 2012, 4:26:10 PM10/31/12
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Craig,

Here's a planar (no stud/plywood detail) 3D model, scaled to the referenced 12' dimension (dome radius.)

-Taff
Econodome; 4v, Kruschke.png
Econodome; 4v, Kruschke.skp

Paul Kranz

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Oct 31, 2012, 9:15:55 PM10/31/12
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Speaking of "Econodome" did you know the Greek word OIKODOMEO transliterates to "ecodome" and means "to build or erect"?
Paul sends...


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Very high regards,
 
Paul sends...

Hector Alfredo Hernández Hdez.

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Oct 31, 2012, 10:26:42 PM10/31/12
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I was working in triangular panels desig, using concrete. the mines dont use a playwood triangle.

Also includig ways to joing a secure one togheter other...
i dont know anything  abouts patenting o improvement model...

However is a execelent idea...

See you

2012/10/31 Paul Kranz <pa...@revivetheflame.com>

Gerry in Quebec

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Nov 1, 2012, 7:52:14 AM11/1/12
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In your SU model, Taff, you have two lengths for the 10 sides of the
dome footprint, each riser wall being the same length as the trapezoid
above it. For the trapezoids & risers under the pentagons, your
trapezoid-base measurement is 7.22 ft, and for those between the
pentagons it's 7.59 ft.

But in Wil Fidroeff's EconOdomes, I'm pretty sure all 10 footprint
struts are equal in length (chord factor 0.618034), just like the
footprint of a 2v icosa hemisphere. So, at a spherical radius of 12
ft, all footrprint struts should be 7.42 ft long. This will result in
a very slight angle (invisible to the nake eye?) between the
trapezoids and the vertical riser walls. The trapezoids under the
pentagons will lean out one-quarter of a degree, while those adjacent
to them (between the pentagons) will lean in 0.8 degrees.

- Gerry in Quebec
>  Econodome; 4v, Kruschke.png
> 410KViewDownload
>
>  Econodome; 4v, Kruschke.skp
> 90KViewDownload

Ego Martini

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Nov 1, 2012, 10:09:24 AM11/1/12
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Thank you for this Taff 
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