Dynamo Light replacement switch and bulbs
Ron Gurth
My lovely Raleigh Supurbe has the original dyno hub with front and rear lights intact. The rear light is working well (but not controlled), but the switch on the front light is sloppy and does not appear to be making a connection. And/or the bulb itself is in need of replacement. Am I correct that the switch works both the front and rear (when working properly), and if so, can the lights be operated individually as well as together?
What have other nutters done to replace the switch with something that does not look totally wrong? Please verify which replacement bulbs are acceptable.
Is STO's bulb conversion available as yet?
Thanks in advance for the advice.
Ron Gurth
Still Cold in
Carmel, IN
ps: Winter Warmer suggestion: Hibernation Ale from Great Divide Brewing (available in 6 packs at fine retailers (at least here in Indiana, except on Sundays). Caution: be sure to be wrapped in a good blanket on a fine leather chair before imbibing. And for petes sake, do not drink this until it is at least 50 deg F. The ale, not the ambient temperature. |
Shirt-Tail Organiser
I just sorted out the Dynohub system on my current Humber Sports
project. The switches are a bit delicate and the main contact will
come loose because the rivet works loose from the phenolic backing.
Mine was ready to come apart so I reinforced with epoxy on the back
side of the phenolic. Indeed, the switch operates the front and rear
but if I remember correctly, it is front+rear - off - front only.
To disassemble, take the front of the light apart first. Once the bulb
holder is removed, you'll see a cotter pin that will release the
works. Who else but the English would use a cotter to hold together a
cycle lamp.
A note about the reflector: the silver mirroring tarnishes readily but
I tried a little restorative auto wax (Turtle Wax). I was a bit
shocked to see the silver plate come right off but underneath was an
equally shiny surface that looks like new.
I have a Coronation Rudge with a replacement switch that appears to be
from a vintage radio; lovely machined aluminium with a 30s-moderne
look to it.
LED replacement bulbs are indeed available and as of yesterday, I have
photos and description up at the web page. www.3speedtour.com or
www.ABCEtour.com and click on "Parts". $15 each. A general
announcement and event update will be forthcoming if I don't get too
busy today.
STO
Aaron Whaley
"DBU" I can't recall but I believe that was to charge the DBU? I do
not have a DBU, but have seen a wiring diagram for it.
Aaron
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "Gentleman Cyclist" group.
> To post to this group, send email to gentlema...@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> gentlemancycli...@googlegroups.com.
> For more options, visit this group at
> http://groups.google.com/group/gentlemancyclist?hl=en.
>
>
--
Sent from my mobile device
Tony Hicks
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/superbe54.html
> >www.ABCEtour.comand click on "Parts". $15 each. A general
Alan Lloyd
http://www.hadland.me.uk/sa/sadbu.pdf
The Dry Battery Unit is for standard cells (NB: now Ds, they used to be called U2s in my dim & distant youth) and, as such, they are not rechargeable.
The Sturmey Archer systems use, basically, one wiring loop: from the hub to the front light, through the bulb, back to the rear light, through the bulb and then returns to the dynahub - not using the frame as part of the circuit, as is usually the case with the bottle generators? This s ignoring the more complicated circuit that includes a D.B.U.
This suggests that a switch would (have to) operate both front & rear lights, but a little magic in the switch and front lamp can exclude the front bulb from the circuit - but not, me-thinks, the rear?
Alan Lloyd
Schaumburg, Illinois, U.S.A.
--- On Wed, 1/27/10, Aaron Whaley <2whls...@gmail.com> wrote:
MarkSaltLake
at Mr. Hadland's site! was wonderng how "rare" the flexwire for
dynohubs is or if you guys have rewired with audiospeaker wire or some
such, what gauge?...my dynohub wirnig on a 60 Phillips Manhattan is
shot. Anyhow just bought for $45 total a box of 7 NOS SA dynohub
wires with connectors in box, number in photo is hard to read but
might be part number GD1244 in the Hadland link, if it is what i
think did ii do ok? as i currently just have one dyno and would keep
a couple spares might have 3 i could sell at cost ($45 div. by $7),
or if part is common maybe sell/recoup on ebay as have bought too
many bits and pieces lately :)
just curious, have you allseen many FG's in the USA? do they perform
well compared to AG's? have an AG . thanks, Mark in Salt Lake
On Jan 27, 9:21 am, Alan Lloyd <ad...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> There are diagrams of the wiring looms in Tony Hadland's documnet ...http://www.hadland.me.uk/sa/sadbu.pdf
>
> The Dry Battery Unit is for standard cells (NB: now Ds, they used to be called U2s in my dim & distant youth) and, as such, they are not rechargeable.
>
> The Sturmey Archer systems use, basically, one wiring loop: from the hub to the front light, through the bulb, back to the rear light, through the bulb and then returns to the dynahub - not using the frame as part of the circuit, as is usually the case with the bottle generators? This s ignoring the more complicated circuit that includes a D.B.U.
>
> This suggests that a switch would (have to) operate both front & rear lights, but a little magic in the switch and front lamp can exclude the front bulb from the circuit - but not, me-thinks, the rear?
>
> Alan Lloyd
> Schaumburg, Illinois, U.S.A.
>
> --- On Wed, 1/27/10, Aaron Whaley <2whls3s...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > >www.ABCEtour.comand click on "Parts". $15 each. A
MarkSaltLake
or maybe reflectalte n the UK, besdes supportng GC--agood thing--would
your bulbs have expexted longer life/durablity? thanks!
until now where i will have wires, was wondering how to test output,
tried an electirc tester where the wres would attach, seemed not to
output juice
> > > >www.ABCEtour.comandclick on "Parts". $15 each. A
Shirt-Tail Organiser
I found grey speaker wire at Radio Shack that looks the part; I don't
know the gauge.
AG and FG Dynoguts are the same so performance is identical. Nice bit
of treasure with the dynohub wiring!
> > > >www.ABCEtour.comandclick on "Parts". $15 each. A
Shirt-Tail Organiser
That being said, the average life of an LED is in the hundreds of
thousands of hours. The best method of testing for output is a simple
meter; be sure to put it on the "AC" (alternating current) setting,
10v range, disconnect the wires, connect the test leads and give it a
spin. You should see something, anything, up to about 6v AC depending
on RPM of the wheel.
STO
> > > > >www.ABCEtour.comandclickon "Parts". $15 each. A
Paul McLeete
and amazing how supple and easy to work the kinks out of after being
on the shelf for 50 some years.
Loranda, my sweeheart, was recently de-junking the house and collected
all our obsolete charger/adaptors for old cell phones, dead CD players
and the like. The twin wire between transformer and adapter are
usually black and of suitable length and similar guage as the Twin
Flex. Out came the wire nippers, hence, a new stash.
The SA FG's are one of my favorite hub's. I don't know of any model
bicycle that was imported to the U.S. with this hub. The 3 speed AG
Dyno-Hub was stocked at U.S. dealerships as an option as early as
1949. Perhaps some post war Supurb's offered here were outfitted with
AG's.
The only FG's I've seen in this country were brought over by
individuals on bikes or via UK ebay sellers. My first one was on a
56' Rudge I bought in Coventry from a window washer chap for 5 quid.
I had to pay 10 quid at the airport for the box to fly the bike home.
That was in 1989.
I spent a bit of shop time last winter getting familiar with FG Dyno-
Hub's, buying a few on ebay.uk and refurbishing them. My Dunelt has
sported my first that I converted to 5 speeds with great
satisfaction. FG's are a great hub that I think deserves it's own
thread.
Paul McLeete
Finland, Minnesota
> > > >www.ABCEtour.comandclick on "Parts". $15 each. A
Aaron Whaley
increase exponentially
Aaron
basmith
and what sort of clips or ties were used to fasten the wires to the
frame?
Brad
Alan Lloyd
The wires are held in place with spring clips similar to the ones used for the brake cables, with a small one for the rear seat-stay and specially shaped ones for the front fork leg - to match the oval tube. In fact I believe the brake's clips are shared on the top-tube?
Oh, and on a lady's the wiring would have to go back along the top tube, up the seat-tube and then down the rear seat-stay - this may mean it has to be longer?
One of the things I don't like about generator lights are what I consider to be their untidy wiring, so I do like the approach of routing them through the frame, etc., as done on some of the higher-end French bikes (for example).
I came across a Schwinn a while back where the owner had glued (hot-glue?) the cables to the tubes - underneath the top-tube, for example, and the overall effect was very neat.
Alan Lloyd
Schaumburg, Illinois, U.S.A.
--- On Sun, 1/31/10, basmith <basmi...@gmail.com> wrote:
Aaron Whaley
Aaron
--
MarkSaltLake
On Jan 31, 3:10 pm, Aaron Whaley <2whls3s...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I just checked my 1972 Raleigh Superbe, which AFAIK is still wired the way
> it came from the factory. The wires run up the right side fork leg, there
> they are attached by two different sizes of malleable metal clip, very
> similar to a zip tie. Then they run along the top tube with the brake
> cables, secured with the same 2 metal clips that hold the brake cables down.
> Then it crosses behind the seat tube and down the left rear stay where it is
> secured with a couple more of the small malleable metal clips. We put tail
> lights on the left side in the US, but I doubt it really makes a difference
> to the oblivious motorists.
>
> Aaron
>
> On Sun, Jan 31, 2010 at 2:27 AM, basmith <basmith...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > Was there a "standard" routing for the wires leading to the taillight
> > and what sort of clips or ties were used to fasten the wires to the
> > frame?
>
> > Brad
>
> > --
> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> > "Gentleman Cyclist" group.
> > To post to this group, send email to gentlema...@googlegroups.com.
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> > gentlemancycli...@googlegroups.com<gentlemancyclist%2Bunsu...@googlegroups.com>