8 Inch Orbital Sander
Kathy Douds
This Ridgid orbital sander has a soft-start feature that brings the machine up to speed with a gentle ramp-up. Our only complaint is a small one: A tight fit between the dust-bag collar and the battery makes removing the bag somewhat difficult.
Random orbital palm sander, backing plate with double holes configuration:
standard 65 mm
special 90 mm
Random orbital motion for the best sanding results
High speed and 2 mm orbit providing a high removal rate
The anti spinning system accelerates the pad gradually in the start up phase, thereby avoiding surface scuffing
Light alloy base support ensuring stability, robustness and no vibrations
Electronic module with speed control
Integral dust extraction system
Random orbital sanders can be used for very varied applications. They are suited for sanding and polishing of surfaces made from wood, metal and other materials. Thanks to the typical rotating and oscillating movement a particularly uniform grinding result is achieved. Both sanding jobs with high material removal and uniform fine grinding can be carried out. The grinding media used and the size of the oscillating circuit are the determining factors of how coarse or fine the sanding result will be. Metabo random orbital sanders are available for sanding sheets with the diameters 80 mm, 125 mm and 150 mm.
Economical working, high surface quality, excellent extraction performance, perfect ergonomics - these are the requirements for a good sander. All Metabo random orbital sanders can score here and each of them has its very particular application focus: The small random orbital sander SX E 400 shows its advantages on small surfaces and curves. The versatile SXE 450 TurboTec random orbital sander can show its potential with its "Duo" oscillating circuit setting for fine and coarse applications. The two random orbital sanders with brushless motor SXE 150-2.5 BL with 2.5 mm / 5 mm orbit diameter provides enormous power and perfect surface quality with extremely compact dimensions and very low weight. If a company works with compressed air tools, the Metabo air disc sander DSX 150 for coarse and fine sanding applications on even and curved surfaces is available.
Almost all random orbital sanders have speed regulation. Thanks to this you can always work with speeds adjusted to the material. Depending on the model, Metabo random orbital sanders are equipped with other special features: With the Turbo boost function you have additional power reserves at your disposal at the touch of a button for maximum material removal. The Power Control System prevents scratches on the surface when placing the machine directly on the material at full speed. A disc brake permits fast placing down of the sander after switching off. Equipped with a sanding pad with multiple perforation, the generated grinding dust can be extracted most effectively. Obviously, all random orbital sanders from Metabo offer the possibility to connect a vacuum cleaner for dust extraction for low-dust working.
Metabo has a large selection of sanding papers on offer. Sanding sheets in grits P40 to P 400 for wood and metal are offered for all relevant diameters and perforations. Also some assortments with different grits are available. For sanding paint and lacquer there is an additional complete range of cling-fit sanding sheets in the same grits. Polishing sponges and lambswool polishing discs round off the range. Just like the thick hook and loop intermediate discs that are placed between sanding pad and sanding paper to permit sanding of curved surfaces and contours. For the integrated dust extraction, dust collector cartridges and dust bags can be used. Much more efficient, however, is the external extraction, for which the Metabo all-purpose vacuum cleaners are ideally suited.
As system providers we are not only concentrating on tools, the focus is always on providing practice-oriented solutions for end users. Aside from suction machines, battery packs and battery chargers our solutions range from powerful cordless site lights to machine stands for saws. Discover here the perfect solution for all your needs.
How the heck do you get them to sand flat?
i have used one for over 8 years now and no matter which one i use, it will round over any corner or hole that you go over. Even if you run it perfectly flat across the top, if it runs over a hole or rout, it will dramatically round it deeper on the edges where it touches.
The problem I experience more with the ROS is when it leaves behind little "swirlies" in the wood, which then have to be hand sanded again to get out. For the extra time I have to spend trying to get rid of these little squiggles I usually find it easier to just hand sand from scratch.
When I was younger I worked for a company that did custom finishes on kitchen cabinets. We would get mirror like finishes using dual action/random orbital sanders. They used these custom made hard DA pads made from plexiglass with a thin layer of rubber between the pad and the paper. We were using the pneumatic type DA's with the nice speed adjustment levers on them. These hard disks would chatter like hell until you dialed in the sweet spot on the speed. Once you found that ideal speed they worked incredibly well and gave you a super flat and even base to paint over and get a mirror like finish.
Using a different backer makes a world of difference. Also, the big name guys are using high end pneumatic sanders that allow for much slower orbital speeds than the little electric ones we buy at the hardware store. The closest thing to a pneumatic that isn't one is the MIrka Ceros, which I would love to have, but at close to $500, I will pass.
Also, as with all tools, it comes downt to practice and dedication to perfect the technique. The guys at PRS that do it all day every day for years get to know the device so well that they can account for any kind of characteristic that we see as a problem. Much like the guys who use relatively low tech tools to produce works of art. You just learn how to use the tool with all of its flaws and soon you can compensate for them. For the guys like us that don't build that much, it can be much easier and more effective to just go at it by hand.
The main reason i ask is because after hand sanding 80+ guitars, i am really, REALLY getting tired of having to sand out 80 grit sandpaper scratches by hand. 80 is the only thing that knocks the sides flat and gets rid of mini tearout. but after that it takes so dang long to get those out of endgrain and sidegrain.
I usually only use random orbit sanders on flat surfaces with 220 and up. Most of the downward pressure needed comes from the weight of the machine, don't press down on it much at all -- that's a sure-fire way to get rounded edges.
Well, most of you guys dont make extreme shaped guitars as i do. With pointy guitars, there is a lot more runout on the edges of Vs and explorers due to the angle of their points. Even with a brand new router bit and going slow you still get tearout on some areas.
Try to route with the grain instead of into it. If you keep going in one direction with the router it will always tear out. Fine Woo Working has a video on what I'm talking about but I can't post links anymore for some reason and if I try the forum freezes the link adding thing onto my screen... Google how to route end grain and the video title is "How to avoid router tearout" it's on the Fine Wood Working website.
I've been using a variety of random orbital sanders the last three years and there is a BIG difference in quality across the board. Festool and Mirka sanders (CEROS and ETS 150) are right at the top for many reasons, but they cost a lot so you should expect them to be. I prefer the Mirka anyway because of the lower stance.
The biggest mistakes I've seen people making with ROS is dwelling in one location for too long and using the wrong pressure or grip. In general the tool's weight and your hand restricting it from running off is all the pressure that is required. Pressing down is asking for bad results. I plan my sanding so that it starts at one end and move consistently to the other side before sweeping down a little and moving back across. Space Invaders style. As for the rounded edges, just don't go over the edge and you should be fine.
Router bits....never go cheap and if you do, buy lots of them and dispose sooner. The bits are usually cheaper than the wood they could junk when worn so why go for the false economy? I use Luna Tools' router bits at the moment since I am stuck with Metric collets. They seem reasonable and not too expensive to junk and replace, but stay working well if not left together in a box clinking together....
necrobump (that's what the kids call it right?)... lamenting right now that I can't have a da sander. my compressor isn't big enough. when I was 17/18/19 I worked as a sander at a cab shop. they pretty much only used dynabrade air sanders. I used one to remove the finish on my sg90 (neck break) and it was the greatest thing ever. never had issues sanding flat or sanding the profiles using that sander. idk if the dyna brade is just better, or if they use a better pad... but it was the absolute perfect tool for sanding detail work, and it could remove material in a heartbeat with a heavier grit - just an absolute pleasure to sand a guitar with (and I hate sanding).
with that in mind... my electric sander is "ok". just a black and decker - bought it because it was low profile and thought that would be the closest to a da sander. I know they make electric da sanders that are like $300... but if I was gonna go that route I'd just buy a 80gal air tank and a da sander.
c80f0f1006