Free Download Software Printer Hp Ink Tank 315
Kathy Douds
ANYTHING, please, that does not rely on terrifically fragile little metal tines that the user is constantly bending and re-bending just in inserting the tanks and cartridges that the senor is there to detect.
How to readjust the spring fingers?
I received instructions from Formlabs support how to do the bending. Below you can find how they should look like according to the support. I have also attached a 2nd picture where you can see how the spring fingers in my printer looked like before adjusting them. Spring%20fingers708590 177 KB
Spring%20fingers%20before11091691 666 KB
I know it was stupid, but I am trying to figure out what to do after being stupid. I put yellow ink into the Magenta tank. The printer is new, has never been turned on. So I am open to listening to suggestions that might make this printer be OK eventually. I haven't put any in the Yellow tank. I was wondering it this ink has anti-bleed chemicals in it. I know that some inks do such that when two colors come in contact, the pigment percipatates out. I am hoping this is not the case for when I try to fill the tank with the correct color in the future.
Hi, Stepinwolf!
So that the Community can help you better, we need to know exactly which Canon printer model you're using. To date, we have not put out any product using the model name "GL5020," but the printer you're describing sounds similar to the PIXMA G5020. Is that what you're using, or is it something else?
That, and any other details you'd like to give will help the Community better understand your issue. If this is a time-sensitive matter, click HERE search our knowledge base or find additional support options HERE.
Thanks and have a great day!
Thank you for posting the solution here as well as in the reviews of the "Dispense All - 10 Pack - Dispensing Needle 4" - Blunt Tip Luer Lock" on Amazon. I made the same mistake of pouring the yellow ink into the Magenta tank of a brand new Prixma G6020. After a failed attempt to disassemble the printer to swap the tanks, I found your post here detailing your success siphoning out the ink with a syringe. I then went onto Amazon to search for 4" dispensing needles, and upon finding one, I saw your comment in the reviews section along with photos. I purchased a 21 gauge needle because it had the fastest shipping time but I agree with your assessment that a 14 gauge would have likely worked (and been faster). The process of transferring the ink from one tank to the other went smoothly and I haven't noticed any impact to print color quality. Thanks again for going the extra mile to share your solution with the world!
Can you send us a message to sup...@formlabs.com with a photo of the front of the resin tank so we can examine what is going on? There could be an issue with the peel motor not coming back up all the way.
It turned out that one of my detents was stuck. I was able to remove the resin tank out of the machine by lightly tapping on the tank from the backside of the machine (I used a small mallet with some folded towels on it for padding). I informed formlabs about the stuck detent and they took care of me.
It happened to me too. Same problem as JoeKuhn reported.
The tank seems to be fixed to the seat.
The left side (seen from front is sligthly movable. The right side however sits like clued.
Anyone of the guys that had reported such an issue before found a solution?
Help of formlabs support is appreciated too.
I have no clue how I can detach the tank from the seat now. Please help.
I have had both described issues happen. The route cause of both was probably the same, that being chipped corner on the tank. In the case of the tilted tank, my peel motor stopped working. Formlabs sent me a replacement that was easy to install, I believe the cause was resin that had overflowed over the chipped corner of the tank and got into the peel motor.
The second case turned out to be the tank had glue itself in place with overflowed resin, again from a chipped corner on the tank. I had to saw tabs off on side of the tank, the right, I think, to get to be able to slide out. It took a lot of forcing. I actually disassemble the printer in the end to get the tank out. The detent ended up being fouled with resin and the ball bearing would not move down like it should when removing the tank.
On the front sides of the chassis, there are 3 screws. the center screw on each side attaches the front panel. Your case may also have two screws on the bottom in front as well to help attach the front panel. These are 2.5mm hex screws.
In my case as with Richard looks like I had some resin drip down the peel motor shaft. Once that happens it looks like it is the end for that peel motor so be careful! I bought a used FL 1+ and got only 1 or 2 prints before a cracked tank dripped on the peel motor. Got a brand new peel motor sent from FL to replace the prior one and got another 2 prints out before a resin spill while scraping the tank got into the peel motor and it died.
As Chris says removing the front panel is the best way to get it out. In my case I was able to power off and then power on and push up on the platform to assist it upward and then was able to remove the tank.
Upon receiving my new cleevis part from FL I went to use the original screw from the old cleevis and place it in the new one. it did not want to thread correctly and pulled to the side at an angle. I tried to straighten the screw but it kept pulling and finally the cleevis hole stripped in the soft aluminum. As I own a machine shop I took both cleevis in and drilled and tapped new holes into them and they work fine now.
Shame on you FL as I doubt this is the first time this has been reported. Why would you continue to use a soft aluminum part to perform such a critical function? The aluminum cleevis is a tiny part and for a few pennies more could easily be replaced with a steel one which would eliminate this possibility altogether. Change this to a steel part.
Right now, I see no thread on the cleevis, does this mean I would need a replacement from FL?
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The thread on the cleevis to anchor the small hex screw with the worm is still intact. How tightly are we suppose to tighten these two?
(tl:dr) I decided to post this so that no one else will have to deal with what I dealt with! While updating drivers for my new HP Smart Tank 7602 printer, an update failed, showed error code 8AF30001 and completely bricked my new printer! I did a thorough Google search to find out how to fix it and no one had a solution! I even contacted HP Support and the solution I was provided with was troubleshooting for old printers. I could not find any of my own solutions and thought I would definitely have to send my printer back.
Fortunately for me, someone left a review on another website with a solution they figured out for themselves and I came here to share it with fellow customers and HP Support so that no one else has to deal with what I did.
4. This will allow it to boot into a manufacturer diagnostic and maintenance menu. My compliments to the designers for having the smarts to include a lower level BIOS to fix broken firmware flashes!!!
Notes: Getting to the menu was sometimes clunky and I had to tap the buttons a few times for it to show up (red x). Also, You can probably hit the red x to reflash and skip the menu but there's other options that might be helpful at other times (like safe mode booting, boot without scan, etc.). There really is tons in there, again, as an IT SE my compliments and appreciation to the designers!
Did not work for my HP Smart Tank 7605.
I get the arrow and the red cross, but no question mark. Nothing happens from then on.
Seems to be really bricked.
Or has anyone else any suggestions, please?
I've been using the printer moderately , max printed per month will be 3-4 times , each only printed around 5-10 page max. Before this problem, the colour wouldn't came out at all, and a technician told me there was air bubble in the ink line and because once the printed wasn't being used for about 2 month , and the printer was off . so I've been told to keep the printer in idle even im not using it for a while .
I have the problem. Printer is 4 months old. I did not print anything for 2 plus months. Then when I went to print, the black does not print at all. The tanks are all full of original HP ink that came with the unit. I have put the unit through at least 15 cleaning cycles, to no avail. I have also followed all of your other suggestions about diagnostics but have not attempted to update the firmware as the unit is 4 months old.
It seems to me that this is a design issue with the HP ink tank printers.
I have the same problem with my 415 - air bubbles in the ink tubes, but I was using the printer for a few days before it happened.
HP should come up with a fix and repair these printers so that it doesn't happen again.
Appalling quality control on the design from HP
Has anyone else had major, continual problems with the Smart Tank 7301? Talk about frustrations! I've always had HP printers, and always liked them, with ease of use, etc. I have contacted support several times, spent HOURS going through the troubleshooting guides, and usually manage to get it printing again, but not always. It may print one job, and a minute later refuse to print, even though nothing has changed. It will say "printer ready" and not print, or it will say"offline" even though the wifi signal is on, and not blinking. I have not been able to get it to copy or scan, or print with a cable. Sometimes it will randomly print in B/W and not show an option for color printing. It seems like a glitch in the electronics and I can't get anyone from HP to acknowledge the problems. I have the same laptop I used with my last HP printer, and that one worked fine for years. The last agent I chatted with told me my ink cartridges were low- and it's a smart tank, that doesn't even have cartridges! When I tried to explain that (and the tanks are full, btw) she responded very rudely and unprofessionally. Sorry for the long post, but if others have had these problems, it would be useful to know how they were resolved.