Note: When you use the print & blade cut function, the design elements to be processed must include both a bitmap image and vector path. The bitmap image is to be printed and the vector path is to be cut.
Are you refering to the pointer laser offset? What exactly do you mean by ancor points not matching? I also have the D1 had some problems with things not lining up. Everything was ever so slightly off. After some hairpulling it ended up being the laser pointer offset. To fix this i did as follows
If you include the Tabs / Bridges option in the Cut Settings Editor (Found when you double-click on the layer in the Cuts / Layers window) and give your square 6 or 8 tabs (or bridges) your square may have some unexpected features and you may be seeing the known xTool firmware problem.
How do you tell the actual laser to go to specific locations? When i use the move/jog window and type coordinates in it will move the crosshairs to that location, not the actual cutting laser, which on the xtool is pretty big difference.
Start laser with head at back left. Jog to far right making note of position in Move window. Take max value. Repeat for Y direction. Remove a couple of mm as buffer and update Device Settings with the new values. You may need to temporarily increase the work area to be able to jog as far as possible.
There was some values in the x axis for the pointer offset when I uploaded the xtool settings. However the x axis was about 3mm off and the Y was a little under 1mm off. Its definitely a learning experience and i greatly appreciate the communities patience and help!
When printing an item that is mostly along one axis (e.g. a pencil-shaped object), is it better to orient the object so that most of the motion is in the X-axis? the Y-axis? 45-degrees along both? P.S.: I'm not sure what I mean by "better". Thanks.
for a short object like a pencil on it's side it doesn't make a lot of difference, if it's less than 210mm long, it can go along the Y axis,
If it's more than 210mm but less than 250mm long it can go along the X axis, however if it's say 300mm long, then Diagonal is your friend
however, if you print diagonally, you may want to change the angle of your infill, so that it prints diagonally on your pencil, instead of across the pencil and along the pencil on alternate layers,
If your model is tall and thin, (like a Lithophane, and you are printing on a Bed Slinger (Mk1, Mk2, Mk3, Mk4 and Mini) then it's best to align the length of the model along the Y axis, to reduce the wobble, which may be induced as the model moves. I usually put a brim on the back side of a lithophane to give extra adhesion, and make it easier to get a good front face, because you only need to remove the brim from the back side after printing.
I try to make safe suggestions,You should understand the context and ensure you are happy that they are safe before attempting to apply my suggestions, what you do, is YOUR responsibility. Location Halifax UK
One difference seems to be that the bed heating is more even along the center y-axis, so orienting it on the y-axis (more bed motion/less printhead motion) means the bed heating results in less warping (due to cold edges, I assume)
From my experience with the MK3, there are many wires in the cord from the control box to the print head. These wear out, and I've had to replace the heat sensor wires more than once. So the lesson there is: If you have a choice, reduce the motion of the printhead.
When choosing print options with any Canon printer.....if you choose glossy paper the paper size option will disable 8.5" x 11" in the dropdown list. I assume that was done because photos are usually standard sizes, and 8.5 x 11 is not a standard photo size. It should be. I have been printing on inkjet printers since the technology became available. Very rarely do I print family photos of standard sizes with my printer. I do everything else possible because I am a masterfully skilled image editor. I also write software. So I know that it actually took extra effort to write the code that would eliminate the option to choose 8.5 x 11 size when glossy paper is chosen.
Hey Canon. This is a major fail. I have file cabinets full of 8.5 x 11 glossy photo paper. The only way to use it in a Canon printer is to cut it into standard photo frame sizes first. Exactly why I am fully stocked with the paper. Here's a little (or very big) profit hint Canon. Scratch that code. The result would be that several hundred million human beings would start using their photo paper in your printers. Knock-knock. Is anybody home Canon?
I have two Canon Pixma inkjets and a Canon multifunction laser printer. They all have 8.5x11 as a choice with glossy paper. Canon makes 8.5x11 glossy inkjet paper. That IS a standard size with inkjet printers.
Thanks for joining the conversation, titlemanager!
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I know that in Acrobat Pro I can save the PDF as a Word document without the background but that's tedious and sometimes the PDF does not "translate" into a Word document properly. In fact, this conversion rarely works for me and I end up with gobblygook.
If anyone knows of a way to simply print the text without including the background image, I would be extremely appreciative. If there's also a way to keep the non-background image I'd be stoked, however if it means printing without either image that's okay.
How would any PDF-Reader know that a certain Image is a "background-Image" and should be removed in printing opposed to any other image? The only way would be to remove the image using your favourite PDF-Editor.
For that you can use Adobe Acrobat. Open the tools-drawer and select 'Content'. There you should have a tool called 'Edit Objects'. You can use that to select any object (your background-image for instance) and use the delete-key to remove that object from the file.
the doc is sized for 8.5 x 13. the epson has a user defined 8.5 x 13. i have gone into the system printer properties and set it for 8.5 x 13. but the after making the changes and i return to libreoffice print screen it is still 8.5 x 11. the printer cuts off the printing at 11".
We have some 8.5x11 images that we need to print out for a wedding next week. Our images are set to 8.5" x 11", but when we print the photo out, the image is slightly enlarged. We are losing about 1/4 on all sides. So, lets say we have an image of 10 squares, it print out an 8.5 x 11 image (borderless) but only 9 squares show up. The other piece is shoved off (blown out) of the page. I thought it might be the canvas size, so I made both image and canvas size 8.5x11, but I still have the same problem.
The problem, (I think...) is that your printer can't reach to the side of the page. Printers have to have a margin on each side of the page, so your printer is printing as wide as it can. May I suggest changing your picture size to 8.25x10.68 (or smaller) which is the biggest it can be without anything getting cut off.
No, the issue is not that I am getting a border (image shrinking) it is that the image is printing out larger than what I set (expanding). We even tried a 5x7 image and it filled out the entire 8.5x11 page. I am not sure if this is a Vista driver problem or something else. We are using a HP C5140 (I think that is the model). It was my brothers. Vista uses a default driver as there is not a specific driver for this printer.
1. Digital format is based on a 4x6 format, so everything is based on that, so a 8x12 is what your trying to print. But they dont make 8x12 paper, now you have to compensate for the difference. I added a border the top and bottom to offset.
In ESRI Javascript 3x version I have created a print preview to highlight the print area on the screen. User will get an idea about the area included in the print output. I used screenUtils API (3.x) for this purpose. While checking the functionality matrix I understand this is deprecated in the 4.x version and not planned to upgrade. The guidelines suggest to use MapView.toMap(), MapView.toScreen(), SceneView.toMap(), SceneView.toScreen(). attached a screen shot from the current 3.x version. Could some one suggest a working example using Javascript API 4.x to get similar output. a sandbox example would be really helpful
I can't manage to make a borderless print of my 8x11 inch photos. I think I am using the correct printer setting (borderless 8.5x11 inch paper). I usually use an Epson 8500. Can someone tell me how to do this?
The normal procedure for borderless printing is to size the image in the editor to exactly the size of the photo paper. When the "Borderless" box is selected in the printer driver, the printer itself actually prints the image slightly larger than the paper size, which results in some cropping, but edge to edge printing.
Thank you both for your replies. I have an Epson XP-8500 and I have read the specs about its limitations. HOWEVER, I know the XP-8500 can print True Borderless 8.5 x 11 inch prints because I have done it. I have two (2) examples in front of me as proof of having done it in the last week. The problem is that I don't know how I managed to do it. I thought maybe someone knows the "magic" button.
I'm having issues finding the "Borderless" selection when printing from Affinity. If I go to printer settings through "Devices" then I have the option, but when I'm printing from Affinity everything is there except for the feature. Very weird.
I do not use Windows so I can't really answer you question. However, have you tried to see if "Document Size" has a drop down window for Letter (8.5 x 11 in)? There might be a choice for "Borderless."
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