Hollow Core Installation

[Armanda Kicks]

HelloI am working on a project in DC where they want to install a solar system spanning between CMU walls. The anchorage of the system would solely be to the exterior CMU parapet walls. We are unsure if these are fully grouted or not...likely not given that they are in DC. The contractor wants to use Hilti HIT-HY 270 and says that it's a viable option for hollow core CMU walls. The ICC report for it (attached) seems to only have published values for anchorage in the face of the CMU block, not the top. The contractor is saying that the epoxy fills the void of the block, allowing for a tension application in the top of a CMU block. I'm not sure that's true? I thought I'd ask you guys for some clarity and see if we can't come up with a design for this one.

When I insert them into the hole, I tried using a hammer to lightly tap them in until the spikes on the rim of the bolt get some purchase in the wood, but with about 90% of the bolts, the inside expanding portion falls off inside the door.

I also tried holding a flat blade screw driver against the rim to hold it while I tightened the molly bolt, but that's too difficult to do and I just wound up with scratches across the back of the door.

As you start to screw it in, one of the spurs should catch in that little pilot hole (helped by the fact that you place it there to start with), and it will expand the hole as you tighten it. The other spur should penetrate the door skin on its own, but if you're finding that it doesn't, let it make a little mark, back the whole thing out, then drill a pilot hole in the middle of the mark for the other spur.

Well, after much research and fiddling, I think the answer is that molly bolts aren't made for use in wood (despite the recommendation of my local hardware store). The spikes just aren't strong enough to pierce and hold in wood. They're for drywall only.

Searched wall anchors for 1/8 hollow core doors.Copy and paste address.( -Find-Fastener-014973264901-18-Piece/dp/B00OHXA82G). Walmart has these listed also. The best way to support a door mirror. I have had all the other methods. They work loose opening and closing a door and even fall the mirror and break. Though what I used are non removable type. Sell the mirror with the house if you move.

A little expensive because of the freight cost now days.But the only way to fly with a 1/8 hollow door skin.

Create a new look in any home with a traditional K-brace style barn door that is easy to install! Barn doors are an excellent space saving solution compared to a traditional swing door while adding character and a unique charm to any room. This traditional barn door design is prefinished in white and can be painted to compliment your decor. A hollow core center is lighter than a traditional solid core barn door allowing for easier transport and installation.

Yes, you can cut the track. You will need a proper cutting tool and blade to get through the track as it is hardened steel. We recommend that you also file the ends to make sure there are no sharp edges

Since I was doing this project without help, and because of my irrational fear of mounting something on a hollow core door, I decided to break this down into two more manageable units rather than one big one. That turned out to be a very good thing.

I cut all my pieces making sure that all of the shelves were exactly the same length, and making sure that the two side pieces were exactly the same length. If the boards are not of equal length, you will not be a happy camper when you assemble them.

After the paint dried, I assembled all the wood pieces. I used nails and glue to attach the bead board backing. I also drove a nail through the back of the bead board and into the center of each shelf to prevent the shelves from sagging or warping over time.

Basically, how these work is you hold your item to be hung, up on the door. You drill through your item and into the door where you want your screws to be. Remove the item, install the anchor into the hole you drilled in the door and then put the item back up and screw it on. Boom. Done. But not so fast.

I drilled holes for the mounting screws through the bead board backing where I felt the screws would be hidden behind the spices. I did this without holding the shelf up to the door since I knew it would be difficult for me to hold up the shelf and drill at the same time. Not a great idea.

I propped the shelf back up on the piece of wood, lined up the holes in the bead board with the wall anchors (I could actually see the anchors through my drilled holes if I looked closely) and installed the screws.

It took me about a day and a half from start to finish for this project. That included figuring out how to space everything, a trip to Home Depot for supplies, painting, assembling and hanging. It was well worth the time, as these storage units have made my life so much easier, and now I have two empty cupboards in my kitchen!

This post was written by Tracy Evans who is a Certified Home Stager, Certified Redesigner and Journeyman Painter. Feel free to visit her website at www.HelpAtHomeStaging.com to view more before and after pictures of her projects. And if you enjoy gardening, you may want to visit her gardening blog at MyUrbanGardenOasis.

Thank you for joining me! The purpose of this blog is to encourage people like you to try new projects that'll make you fall in love with your home, and make your life a little more organized and beautiful.

We have a narrow hallway and we would like to put in a slider barn door style closing. I have found a regular hollow core slab door that I like, which is the right price and not available in a solid wood door. My question is: can I use this for a slider using barn door type hardware? Should I get hardware that is attached on the top to make it sturdier or can I get front mounted hardware? The door does not weigh much...50 pounds so I am thinking that it would not be too much of a strain on the top rail of the door. Have looked online and have only seen one discussion of this approach...one that was successful and an easy install, another (from a major big box store) that says it can't be done because it is a hollow core. But if the hardware is attached close to the edges of the top of the door, the screws should be in solid wood around the frame, right? What is wrong with this plan?

I have done quite a few projects that look at how to dress up a plain hollow core door. These doors are bargains and you can pick them up for about R300 at your local Builders. Sometimes even cheaper than that if they are on special. But they are also pretty boring. I'm going to show you another way to dress up a standard hollow core door by cutting and fitting a frosted glass panel into the door.

I have a double level house and the passage on the lower level that connects all the bedrooms and the bathroom is dark, as there are no windows and no place to fit windows. After thinking through various options I finally decided to fit a glass panel to a standard hollow core door, and that would let in lots of natural light. And the glass will be sprayed with Rust-Oleum Frosted Glass spray, so privacy won't be a problem.

1. Your standard hollow core doors are longer than the height of the door and you will need to cut away a section at the bottom of the door to fit. To do this, measure the height of the existing door and transfer this onto the new door. I am cutting away a section at the bottom using a circular saw.

Since it's only a small section the guide won't work, so ensure I cut a straight line I clamp a steel ruler as a guide. Make sure that the blade of the saw is in perfect alignment for cutting off the correct amount. You don't want a huge gap at the bottom of the door.

2. The cheaper hollow core doors don't have as much timber support at the bottom, as would a more expensive door. When you cut away the bottom of the door you are left with cardboard supports. But to fix this problem you only need a length of 32 x 32mm PAR pine.

4. Squeeze in some Ponal wood glue between the pine and the door frame. Ponal is best because it has a runny consistency and a small nozzle that allows you to get into a small gap easily.

6. I measured in 200mm from the top, bottom and side edges on both sides of the door. This is where the glass panel will be fitted.

7. I used my Dremel DSM20 to do this. (You can use a Jigsaw if you don't have a DSM20, but only use a laminate cutting blade to avoid ripping the edges of the board.) Line up the cutting blade with your mark and then clamp a straightedge or steel rule at the top and bottom to act as a guide for cutting a straight line.

8. For the bottom of the door and the centre frame I used a total of two 32 x32 x 1800mm lengths of pine. I cut pieces to fit inside the frame at the top and bottom, and to butt up against the corners down both sides.

10. The frame consists of 3mm MDF that is 40mm wide and cut to length to fit the top, bottom and sides. These pieces were glued in place using Pattex No More Nails adhesive. If there are any gaps where there is no pine support it's important to apply glue along the panel edges.

11. To cover up the staples and add a decorative frame, more 3mm x 40mm strips were glued around the outside of the frame on the front and back of the door using Pattex No More Nails adhesive.

12. To finish off the decorative effect, pine moulding was cut to fit around the outside edge of the frame. The corners were cut at a 45-degree angle to give a nice professional touch.

Hello

I know it has been done before but I have some questions. After much research about the different flooring methods. Hollow Core seems to be the most economical method.

Can any one with experience in the hollow core flooring please share the positive and negative using this method with ICF walls.

Questions I have:

Footings, do they need to be beefed up for the weight of the concrete?

Hollow core toppings, what really is required?

Can real wood flooring be installed on concrete?

Will infloor heat be sucked right up the exterior walls?

Are there any detail of a hollow core where it meets the ICF construction. For example the ICF forms are 16" tall. The hollow cor is 8" tall. Do I just cut the inside form/foam for the "next level" of wall to be installed?

How much ledge does hollow core require to rest on?

Thanks

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