Buffalo Router Change Language

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Autumn Pitz

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Aug 4, 2024, 5:14:07 PM8/4/24
to gbasbullschifun
Its not that Buffalo hates their users, but that they can't do anything about it. Even a small change in firmware requires a lot of money so unless it is a major problem it probably won't be done (true for any type of software/firmware).

I've been in Japan for over 15 years, and this is an old theme over here, one which is related to protectionism and even possible some passive "hate" to repeat a phrase previously applied by someone else. Even though I can deal with the Japanese OS, I do not feel that the ability to read kanji is a reasonable expectation for people from other cultures as it is not a language in which you can look up words if you don't already know them. This is an unreasonable policy and of suspect motives, and I recommend to any and all that you look for a Japanese company interested/willing to do business in a sensible fashion. Canon, for example, is a great company in this respect while some others, such as Buffalo or Epson, are not. I have seen comments to the effect that Planex has dual language OS with its routers, and if you google around you will find plenty of people griping about the protected Japanese router market and the presence of lower quality merchandise at premium price point--and especially criticism of Buffalo routers.


I Have Buffalo Router Model WXR-1750DPH it default language is Japanese and i have search on how to change it language into english. Any Suggestion on how to change it Language into English ?? Thankyou for the answer in advance


To those who answer my Quest about on how to change the default language of my Buffalo Router Mode wxr-1750dph i will send the Web User Interface. It is different with the Web User Interface of all the answer. Thank You for answering :D


This forum has been created to connect people with router related issues to those who have an efficient knowledge about the same. This forum aims at providing the right kind of troubleshooting techniques and solutions to complicated router issues. The answers posted here are verified for efficiency by our router engineers.


The dd-wrt tftp image has a header in front of this magic number which is confusing u-boot. The sequence of bytes of the Magic Number is : 27 05 19 56, which on that dd-wrt is located at offset 0x20. I have blurred out the sequence of bytes before the magic number in the hext image:


Save the file under a new filename. Now I have a dd-wrt image file which has the magic number right at the start of the file. I transferred the edited image from my tftp server and verified the image:


Hit CTRL-C again at this point! The router will then stop the boot sequence and enter the u-boot console, which is where you have complete control over what you can do with the router :)


If you see anything other than the above then you either transferred the wrong image or your have not corectly edited the image so that the header starts at the begining of the file. If so, then either transfer the image once more or re-edit an original dd-wrt tftp image file to make this the case, and then perform the tftp transfer once more.


And there you have it. You had bricked your Japanese WZR-HP-G300N and now you have managed to install DD-wrt using the tftp image and a few u-boot commands. This procedure will also work for other firmware, like OpenWRT (And it the X-WRT project which makes a web front-end to OpenWRT). I hope this has been helpful!






Zgembo :

thanks for the useful information,

i was wondering if changing region code to english would enable flashing to english stock firmware?

btw, could you post serial pinouts for this board?


Thanks for the useful info again. I needed this just in case something goes wrong, but fortunately it never did. I got my WZR-HP-G300NH via rakuten, but from cheapest shop for 8.000円, and i think they were selling Taiwanese version of the router, which came preinstalled with english, and with Chinese-style power adapter, strange indeed. I flashed OpenWRT (Kamikaze r19704 built from source) immediately without even being aware of JP version problems, and it worked like charm since first day.


If your routor is Japanese version, you might need to flash to DDWRT first, and using the revert firmware after the region changed, since there is no multi-language support for Japan domestic version.


Sorry to hear that, as I review my previous post, I forget to mention about the serial to TTL circuit on the serial port connection and such carelessness mis-leaded you to take the action which damage your routor.

Actually the logic high/low definition between serial and TTL are different, thus we need a convertor to transform in between. I am so sorry .


I got myself Japanese WZR-HP-G300NH, and ran into same problems. Messing a bit with the u-boot console and comparing boot variables with non-Japanese WZR-HP-G300NH, i found out an interesting setting, simply typing:


i have DD-G300 N v2 bricked with DD-WRT V1 now i want to put original firmware i establish connection between router and PC via Serial port i can send fimware using hyper terminal kermit protocol router will receive and store in 0*80f00000 also i can copy it to flash but after booting it says EEprm error and i need to ctrl+c ant suggestion


Hi Kevin

I will try to find one of those two cables (the nokia cable is more easy to find and cheaper). 3.3v is really necessary? the motherboard doesnt power on itself using the ac adapter?

Sorry to bothering you with noob questions.


3.3V stands for the TTL signal level of the circuitry of the router. The router, of course, should use its AC adapter when you are communicating with it via your cable and the terminal program you are using.


Unfortunately for me the WCN-HP-GN I purchased here in Shanghai seems to also have a restriction on firmware region. I would love to get dd-wrt on this unit so that I could load an Open VPN package. No need for me to elaborate on the importance of a VPN here.


If I do really one of those cables, can I use this one? I can get one of these faster than importing from dx.


It does already have the USBSerial conversion chip inside the usb connector. They use this cable to access the raspberry pi, arduinos, etc.


I will try to recover this router when I get the cable that you mentioned above(TTL-232R-3V3-WE).

So the only thing I need after that is:

Use the putty, break the router boot sequence (ctrl + C) and and follow your instructions right?

Thank you all


I also used the Ryouta firmware mod to unbrick my router, but after reboot I could not webupdate to any dd wrt firmware. I downgrade to 1.65 EU (the one brainslayer provided at dd wrt forum) and then I update to buffalo's official 19484. I will test the newer version of dd wrt to see if solve some bugs that I found in 19484.


EDIT! Note: The link now works properly (I had forgotten to complete the port forward following a router change!) It is now possible to reach the web interface, whether I have SSL mode enabled or not. If it is enabled, it simply throws up a trust warning).


If accessing the NAS from outside the network, personally I would use sFTP rather than a web interface. You may want to refer to their documentation concerning what they recommend to use as a SSL certificate on their device.


This article gives a rundown how i setup these drives but first, a short observation of the NAS. This is the first NAS i have owned and so i am not in the position to compare it with the other NAS such as the Thecus, QNAP, etc. But what i see so far, i like it.


The NAS has a default setup to take its IP address automatically from the DHCP server (usually this is from the router). As this is a fixed appliance, I prefer to assign a static IP address myself. My usual practice is to assign static IPs between the range 192.168.1.1 and 192.168.1.99 and dynamic IPs between 192.168.1.100 and 192.168.1.244. This make it easier for me to associate IPs with various devices within my home network.


1. Disk 1, 2 and 3 will form a raid array using raid 5. I would expect the effective capacity available to me would be near the 4TB mark (maybe less due to the overhead of the system), but this is good enough.


Install all the drives onto the drive caddies. Make sure that the NAS is switched off and do not connect any network cable to the NAS! Install the first drive into drive bay 1. Switch on the NAS by holding down the power button on the front panel for 1 second or so. The blue power LED will blink as it proceeds to boot. When the function LED is lit red, press the function button. The function LED will then flash as the NAS proceed to load the firmware onto the hard drive. This takes about 10 mins or so on my drive. The NAS will reboot in the process and when the power LED is lit blue (note. not flashing blue), plug the network cable into the NAS. The first setup process is completed and we can now login to the web interface.

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