Xgaming Controller

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Gene Cryder

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Aug 3, 2024, 5:58:52 PM8/3/24
to gasysphyco

For your convenience we have set up a live X-600M unit for testing and evaluation. By clicking the links below you have full access to this live unit. You can make changes to the configuration and settings through the setup pages and you can control X-600M through its control page. The control page allows you to change the state of the relay and view the current state of the input.

The diagram illustrates how this demonstration is wired. Nothing is connected to the relay contacts; however, you can still turn the relay on and off to see how it works. The input state only changes when a voltage is applied to the input. For this demonstration, we have connected one of our X-332 controllers to the input of the X-600M. You can apply a voltage to the input of the X-600M by accessing the control page for the X-332 (Digital Input Control Page).

"In conclusion, I really have to hand it to XGaming: I am very impressed by this unit. This is a well-thought out gaming peripheral that delivers performance beyond what you would expect. At $129 it's also an outstanding bargain. It's rare that you get a product that not only performs near the top of its class but is bargain priced as well! Recommended by RetroBlast."

"The only thing that would make the X-Arcade Solo a more perfect representation of an arcade controller would be if there were cigarette burns in the laminate. Not only is the X-Arcade Solo finely crafted and sturdily constructed, it works flawlessly with the games for which it was intended, namely fighters and arcade ports."

"We all have fond memories of our favorite arcade games and the X-Arcade aims to revive them. Large and retro, the controller works with PC, PS2 and Xbox. Just plug it into the PC, download some classic arcade games from the internet and relive those childhood moments."

The next generation of Spark Control is here. Easily swap presets, toggle effects, and so much more with the 6-switch customizable Spark Control X, the official wireless footswitch for Spark series guitar amps.

Spark Control X seamlessly connects to all Spark series amps through the Spark app, offering full control over your tone and jam sessions. For Spark LIVE users, enjoy the added benefit of direct hardware connectivity, no app required.

Crafted in a durable housing, Spark Control X is ready to endure relentless stomping during live gigs and studio sessions. A one-piece silicone cover also wraps Spark Control X, ensuring that it stays firmly anchored under your foot.

Get creative with your instrument of choice without interruption. Electric guitar, electric-acoustic, bass, and more, Spark Control X offers full, hands-free control over your Spark series amp no matter what you play.

Spark Control X is a foot controller designed for use with Positive Grid's Spark LIVE, Spark, Spark MINI, and Spark GO amps. It features 6 steel switches with an aluminum housing and rubber side panels, multi-color LEDs for status indication, 2 expression pedal inputs, and more.

You need to pair the Spark Control X with the Spark app to control your Spark, Spark MINI and Spark GO. However Spark Control X works as a standalone foot controller for Spark LIVE. You can connect it directly to your Spark LIVE or adjust settings with the app.

Currently, Spark Control X is available directly from our website in the US, EU, UK, Canada, and Australia. Additionally, you might find Spark Control X at a select local retailer in your area. Feel free to use our store locator to check for nearby outlets.

The delivery time depends on your location. Shipping estimates will be displayed on the checkout page. Shipping estimates will be displayed on the checkout page and will also be displayed in the My Orders section of your account page.

Thank you for your response. I figured out a solution that worked for me yesterday and got my first carves started! Not sure if I missed something in the instructions but below is what worked for me in case anyone else has a similar issue.

The X-Carve assembly instructions took me to this link to download the Easel driver which I assumed also setup the X-Controller driver. I never found anything specifically labeled an X-Controller Driver.

The solution that worked for me was to downloaded the FTDI driver, which seems to convert the USB to a COM port that Easel software can identify. I saw there was an option to manual select a COM port but as my device manager showed there was nothing listed under COM ports.

The table below lists all of the currently available installation guides and indicates which Operating System the documents are relevant to. To view an installation guide, click on the document title. To save a copy of installation guides,...

For me I just needed to update the driver of the USB Serial Cable as shown in figure 3.11 of the install guide and then Easel was able to find my controller.
Now the controller shows up as a USB Serial Port under Ports in Device Manager and connects to Easel.

You will need two pieces of information. The driver chip that was used on the board and the value of the current sense resistor so that you can look at the driver chip data sheet to get the formula to calculate the correct Vref setting for a particular current.

The potentiometers on the controller board allow you to control the
maximum current to the motors. Clockwise increases the current and
counter-clockwise decreases the current. Current ratings are different
for NEMA 17 (1.6A) and NEMA
23 (2.8A) stepper motors and need to be set accordingly. The slot
between the dots on the gray actuator is the pointer, and can be
adjusted based on the diagram on the controller board.
For those users who would like to know the current more precisely,
you can measure the amount of voltage on the reference and ground test
points. Use the formula (I = ref * 2.13) on the diagram to determine
the current. For example, if you measure 1V you get 2.13 amps.

Grbl Step Idle Delay turns off all the stepper drivers a set number of milliseconds after Grbl enters idle mode. We do not recommend using that on X-Carves. It is best to leave the motors on or position may be lost. X-Controller does support it though.

The X-Controller idle reduction feature is different. It reduces current rather than stops current. It is also independent for each axis. The X and Y can still be moving and the Z could enter current reduction. Stepper motors lose torque with speed, so even if they have reduced torque at idle, they may actually have more torque than the running, full current, motors. This feature results in lower average motor temperature, so higher full current settings can be used to improve performance.

Look here for the current calibration instructions just above step 2. The third picture on the right shows the location of the test points to measure the voltage, you measure between either xref, yref, or zref and gnd. They are each just to the right of the potentiometer.

Check the actual connectors as there have been a batch which were overtrumped actually severing the connection inside the plastic covering, effectively hiding it from plain sight. A continuity check would verify electrical connection.

Hey Daniel.
Yes this issue ended up being the USB board was not soldered correctly. The small cable inside the x-controller was putting pressure on the connection and it actually popped off the board while I was on the phone with customer service. Seems like they must have gotten a bad batch of these boards because I have been seeing a lot more of these issues on the forum. Customer service was great, they walked me through a bunch of trouble shooting prior to that and were super fast at getting me the replacement parts shipped out. I was up and running in 2 days.

I have my computer set up on a workbench that does not butt right up to my x carve. I could run a cord from my computer to the x controller but I think it will get in the way and wont look real clean. I would rather if possible go wireless between the two. Has anybody done this yet? If so how did you do it?

This has been the best thing I have done with the X-Carve. can use it locally or remotely as needed. can use Easel with Easel local or UGS, or Bcnc, or CncJs, or Chillipeppr etc. etc.
ps: also love using the wireless keyboard to jog while standing over the machine.

Using a Raspberry Pi will be harder as you will need to use software similar to Astroprint. ( ) Its used for wireless 3d printing.
Here is someone who did this but you will have to study like he did to adapt it to your needs.
-Pi-Alamode-CNC-Controller/

why would you need this Astroprint? I have the Raspberry Pi and I use it locally with Easel Local all the time. I also just follow the directions as listed here: GitHub - samyk/easel-driver: Easel driver for Linux, Mac, Windows, ARM, Raspberry Pi, Intel, FTDI, CH340, CH341, CP210x, FTDI clones, local, and remote access to GRBL-based CNC controllers and you can control the X-Carve through your local area network from a remote machine. I do not log into or control the raspberry pi remotely just use the driver to send the commands to remotely.

still do not understand what you are trying to say with your statements then. now it is even more cryptic of a statement. should he use these programs as you listed? if not then why list them as what he needs? have you even tried to use the Raspberry Pi to control the X-Controller? if not then what are you basing your statements on? is this helping this person get to a solution. I see that you link refers to making a controller with the Raspberry Pi but the OP stated he has an X-Controller so why would he need to spend more money building another one? the OP just wants to use his X-Controller through a wireless connection. so many questions with the solutions you presented.

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