How To Connect Joystick To Computer

[Jennifer Downey]

Okhere is my problem with the new zwift play controllers.

My Left controller will not connect by bluetooth on my pc running windows 11.

During the start up of zwift it will see my wahoo kicker, heartrate monitor just fine.

Then I try to connect my play controllers in the steering section and it sees both controllers but will only connect to the right one. The Z on the controller will go from flashing blue to steady blue on the right one but the left one will continue to flash.

The steering section shows both controllers and the battery levels and I can check the boxes to select both controllers but it will just keep showing connecting.

I wanted to know if the bluetooth was a problem with the controller so I closed the zwift program on my laptop and opened the companion app on my table and was able to connect both controllers to the companion right away and could see that both controllers were up to date with firmware.

SO back to the zwift on the pc, still would not connect the left controller. I even went all the way to uninstall zwift from my PC and reinstall zwift again. Still same issue, left controller would not connect.

If it is a distance issue I do not believe it as right now I have both controllers sitting RIGHT NEXT to the PC.

Both controllers worked fine the first 3 times that I used them and it was with the last version of zwift as today I just got the new update zwift, so the problem is with the most current and the last version.

Kind of at a loss right now with these controller, loved them the 3 rides that I did get to use them but kind of a big disappointment now, and if I can not figure this out soon they are going back!

I just tried that and there is one heck of a lag time around 2-3 seconds from when I pressed a button and something happened.

But yes I was able to connect both controllers by using my tablet as a bridge but just not usable.

As soon as I went back to bluetooth thru the PC the problem came right back, the left controller will not connect and the Z just keeps flashing.

It is just odd that it will not connect thru the PC but I can see the battery level and the controller it self? I mean if I turn off the left controller the controller on the list of devices in the steering section will go away? So the PC and zwift is seeing the left controller it just will not finish the connecting process.

I had a similar issue where the left controller would not connect. Contacted Zwift help and they sent me an article relating to calibrating the play controllers. Note the article only says to calibrate if told to do so by Zwift. Anyhow, this seems to have fixed the connection issue I was having. Suggest you contact Zwift help for support.

I am currently having the same issues with the same symptoms as D Hardy. I have updated the firmware on the controllers. I have purchased a new USB hub and dongle to move the dongle closer to the controllers. I have tried both Windows 11 and Windows 10 versions on 2 different computers still without success. I have turned controllers on after Zwift program has booted without success. Initially, I had intermittent connection issues, then with the new USB hub, it seems to connect just like D Hardy describes in his email. The Zwift Play controllers show they are connected on the computer screen, the lights on the controller are both solid blue. I see the icon showing connection when I ride, but the controllers do not function. I am at a loss on what to do now for they simply will not work even though they show they are connected on either PC computer running WII or W10.

Railroader maybe could I use something like an Leonardo that emulates a joystick? Take commands from the joystick and move the robot via the Leo output, then have the Leo repeat the commands to windows 10 via USB cable???

Let one of the units, the Pc OR the Arduino supply the Vcc to the joystick. Onle one of them! Connect all their grounds together, Pc and Arduino. Then connect the output joystick signal, analog I suppose, to both Pc and Arduino.

LOL zwieblum!! I am so stupid...sorry guys. I need to use the joystick for moving the mech in the software and move the physical robot at exactly the same time. Basically mirror the movements of the software robot with the demonstrator robot. Sorry guys for not being clear.

Hi Z, I tried doing something like that on another project and it was such a headache. I made a program in Processing but there was always what is called a "Windows Focus" problem. If I "focused" on the windows game (or made that window active) and played it the program would not run. If I "focused" on the App the program would run fine. That is why I am trying for a hardware fix that might be easier.

Of course you cannot connect the joystick to the Arduino via its USB connector (arguably, you could with a "Host shield" but ...). The suggestion to access the analog from the potentiometer implies that you connect internally to the joystick.

This shouldn't be too difficult. Use the software USB library (V-USB) to read the joystick via the normal IO pins. Then use the hardware USB port on a Leonardo (or any 32u4 based board) to pass those readings on to the computer.

You need a second computer. Install Map Connect on that computer and plug your joystick into it. Open MAP Connect and be sure your joystick is recognized and you should be able to assign some buttons and axis in MAP Connect. Make sure this computer is on the same Wi-Fi as your iPad running infinite flight.

Even if flying with a joystick, you should keep a regulartransmitter/receiver connected and ready for use as a backup. In futureversions of ArduPilot, after more failsafe testing has been completed this recommendation may change.

Instead of setting up a stick or button for ch5 (the flight modechannel), it is better to set individual buttons to initiate a flightmode by selecting Change Mode and then push the Settingsbutton and select the flight mode from the drop-down (see pic above)

In the CONFIG/TUNING Full Parameter List, check that theSYSID_MYGCSparameter matches the system ID of your GCS. This parameter limitswhich GCS can send override signals to the vehicle.

This error is caused because Mission Planner maps the Joystick exactlyto the RC min and max range, but the pre-arm checks assume that if thevalues are not at least 1 PWM us off the default value, that calibrationhas not been done. If you have RC calibrated your transmitter/receiver system already, this will not be necessary. DO NOT RC CALIBRATE THE JOYSTICK, it is not the same control mechanism as is used for RC systems. It uses MAVLink override messages.

Go to the Initial Setup Mandatory Hardware RadioCalibration screen and ensure the green bars all move in thecorrect direction. Remember the bars move in the same direction asthe sticks except for Pitch which moves in the opposite direction.

This guide is for the R4 version of the BlueROV2 or ROVs that have been upgraded to a Navigator Flight Controller and BlueOS software. If you have an older R1, R2, or R3 version of the BlueROV2 that still uses a Pixhawk autopilot and Companion software, use this version of the Software Setup Guide instead.

These are instructions for the first time that you set up your computer to work with the BlueROV2. If you have not assembled your BlueROV2, please see our Assembly Guide and assemble your BlueROV2 prior to setting up the software.

1. Go to the Windows Control Panel then select Network and Sharing Center. If you do not see Network and Sharing Center, change the View by option to large or small icons.

Before proceeding, you must update the onboard BlueOS software and ArduSub firmware to get the latest feature updates and bug fixes. The BlueROV2 will need access to WiFi in order to perform the updates, make sure you are in an area with a strong and accessible WiFi network before continuing with the update process.

3. You will be taken to the BlueOS web interface home screen. Do as the friendly welcome tour suggests and connect to a WiFi network by clicking on an available network from the Wifi menu and entering the password.

To begin, navigate to the Vehicle Settings page in QGroundControl and select the Motors tab in the sidebar on the left, then proceed with Automatic Motor Direction Detection routine (recommended), or configure them manually.

The Automatic Motor Direction Detection routine needs to be performed while the BlueROV2 is floating in water. The ROV will activate each thruster individually and automatically detect the direction from the movement. This is the recommended method, especially for inexperienced users.

1. Place the vehicle in water with enough room for it to move around slightly without bumping into walls or the bottom. Make sure the vehicle has a bit of slack in the tether so that it can move freely.

4. The results of the routine will appear as it progresses, and success or failure will be indicated for each individual thruster. If one of the thrusters fails, make sure the ROV has enough room to move around freely and attempt the test again. If one or more thrusters consistently fails, it could be an indication that it is not correctly connected to an ESC. Double check that the thrusters are connected to the correct ESC according to the assembly instructions.

QGroundControl also supports many other types of gamepad controllers. If you would like to use a different type of controller, please refer to QGroundControl documentation for information about other supported controllers.

The Xbox controller is plug-and-play with Windows systems. It can be used wired with a USB-C cable or wirelessly via Bluetooth. To use the controller wirelessly, your computer must have Bluetooth enabled and the controller must be paired from the Bluetooth settings menu.

The middle Xbox button can be used as a user-assignable function button. By default, it is configured to open the Windows Game Bar. This needs to be disabled before this button can be used in QGroundControl.

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