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[Pavan Outlaw]

Ifnot I would like to use the Gigabit Ethernet interface of the laptop and a GigE Express Card to read the two data streams. I think it should be possible with LabVIEW (Version 8.6) to grab the data oh to cams over two different ethernet cards but because of the missing expirience I would ike to know if it really can work or if there are any restrictions caused by LabVIEW or the notebook (data bus etc.). If it's possible to use this way what are the specifications of the notebooks GigE Port and the GigE Express Card if have to take care about. I have heard that they shuld be able to work with jumbo pictures for example, are GigE ports of standard notebooks able to do this? (I have a little trouble to find the right because I also want to use CUDA and need the right GPU on it -on the other side ur cooperative partner really don't want to spend to much money).

Laptops are wonderfully versatile devices that pack an amazing amount of power into a small and portable space. To achieve their small form-factor, there are typically design compromises made in terms of internal bandwidth (as you noted), disk capacity, disk speed, etc. They are fine for prototyping, light-to-moderate demos, etc., but for production work or challenging throughput applications it's really better to work with "tower" PCs or small industrial PCs (if size/portability is important).

At the moment I think about an Asus of the G71GX Series, I still ordered a few data sheet from them because the pieces of information the open gamers market gets from these gadgets are not really helpfull enough. But well, how I've said the Laptop is not bought up to now, so if another one would be a better I could also take this.

The small industrial PC could be an alternative but the system should be used in different neurological laboratories and in operating rooms because of this an implementation in a notebook would just be great. Well it's a challenge but if there is a way I would like to try it.

The latest idea is just to take a GigE Switch, I think that should save a lot of cpu power on the other side I don't know if it would be good for the bandwith. In the worst case I have 4x10 bits of data with 30 Hz to transmit.

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While many do not like using Windows, it has nearly become a requirement in astronomy, and astrophotography in particular. Windows 10 now has display settings options that should be of interest to astrophotographers. I purchased a new laptop for imaging back in December 2017 that had Windows 10 installed. It was my first introduction to Windows 10. As it is for many, it was unfamiliar territory coming from Windows 7 and Windows 8. Digging beneath the multitude of re-scrambled and misplaced (?) user interface settings proved to be worthwhile. I discovered features that were actually a big step up from my use of previous versions of Windows.

I used to use overlay films of different types to make my screen red while imaging. While some / many astronomy software programs implement a Night Vision Mode, some don't and sometimes we use software tools while imaging that don't have such a mode (or don't support the system settings pushed out by other programs that do). Hence arises the need to use Rubylith, Red Acetate, and other physical screens to cut back on any non-red lighting coming from the laptop.

While poking around in Windows 10, I found that you can configure it do a much better job than any external screens I have seen to date. I found that several of the display settings features could be combined to make the laptop much more useful and friendly for astrophotography. After playing around for several days, I stumbled upon a combination of settings every bit as good as using Rubylith over the screen. The final effect using only native Windows 10 settings is as good as any astronomy program's Night Vision Mode. I now no longer use any external device or software program for implementing Night Vision Mode. I can switch to a Windows mode which puts ALL software into Night Vision Mode. Below is a screenshot of my laptop screen using this mode.

I was amazed at how good this looked when I started playing with it. It was actually more effective and dimmer than the Rubylith I used to use on my previous imaging laptop. It also doesn't interfere with the view of the screen. I always had some trouble reading small fonts through the Rubylith as they became blurred slightly.

The photo is cropped to show the only a portion of the screen. I am running Sequence Generator Pro, and PHD2 Guiding in this shot. None of the software is in Night Vision Mode. Only pre-configured Windows 10 settings are used for this deep red night vision effect.

To set up this mode, I created a Windows Theme which used a plain black background. I then added a custom High Contrast Theme to Windows and set the custom desktop theme to use that. Next I configured the Windows 10 Night Light mode to use the lowest color temperature available. Finally, I turned on the Night Light mode in the Windows 10 Notification / Control sidebar. To put finishing touches on the configuration for ease of use, I created two shortcuts -- one sets the custom Night Vision Mode for imaging and the other restores my default custom theme for normal laptop use. In use, I click on the Imaging Theme shortcut at the beginning of the imaging session, turn on the Night Light mode and image away. At the end of the night, I click on the Normal Theme shortcut, turn off Night Light mode and I am back to using a typical daytime laptop.

I will note that this works best on laptops that use an IPS screen. Non-IPS screens tend to scatter white light sideways and may in some cases still need a physical barrier for spewed back-lighting that escapes towards the sides of the display. Such is not the case when this technique is used on an IPS screen.

The key advantage here for me is that any software you use while set up for imaging is in the stealth Night Vision Mode already. You don't need to turn on any such mode in any of the applications you are running. (In fact, I think it's better to leave them all in their normal operating mode when using this technique.) It is fun and a little unusual to see and use things like PixInsight in Night Vision Mode. I sometimes have it open to check star profiles and get noise estimates and such while imaging. Using Windows 10 to implement the Night Vision Mode makes that (and more) possible.

Next we will create the high contrast theme which is used for our Night Vision Mode. This will involve setting up a plain dark background, modifying the Windows 10 window frame colors, and configuring a new palette of high contrast colors for our windows.

Now might be a good time to save a default personalized Windows Theme if you are still using one the Windows defaults. Make some change to your existing theme such as changing the Desktop Background image or window frame color scheme and then click the Save Theme button. Having saved a custom theme makes it much easier to restore your overall Windows Theme when you exit from the Night Vision Mode we will create.

While performing these next steps for changing the high contrast colors, do not try to use the Apply button to preview progress. That will force you to either save an incomplete set of modifications or discard what you have already entered. Wait until all color values described in Step 11 have been entered / updated before pressing Apply.

The creation of the Windows 10 Night Vision theme is now complete. You should be left with a Settings window that appears very similar to Figure 11 below. If you would like to see what the new theme looks like, move your cursor to the bottom right of the task bar and bring up the Windows 10 Notification and Control side panel. In the tools shown in the panel, click on Night Light to turn it on. (I show the control here with a yellow box around it for visibility.

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