Nvidia Shield Factory Reset

[Evelio Olivo]

Ineglected to mention that the TV we use for the Tablo HDMI connection is a Sony with Google TV. So I can play the Tablo content on the Sony TV either by switching to the HDMI port for the Tablo or running the Tablo Android app on the Sony TV. Both work fine. On the Sony system I have not had to do a factory data reset to get audio to work through the Tablo app.

Could this be something caused by some network interference with the new Shield or something? I haven't even turned on or configured the Shield yet so maybe the Fire Stick being removed? Just very frustrated at this point so hopefully we can find some answers.

But with the new update flashing atop in Sonos app, the beam won't update at all and every now n then it used to try and automatically update the firmware but without success. It was very frustrating as while watching, it used to try out rendering the audio out with no sound, despite the automatic schedule set to a different phase of the day.

Nobody should be factory resetting their Sonos devices unless you are selling/giving them to another party or are told to by Sonos support. Factory resetting does nothing beneficial that isn't accomplished by a reboot, and it erases valuable diagnostics which can be used by Sonos to give support if the reboot doesn't work.

Maybe try the reset whilst the device is cabled direct to the router and see if that works, but at the moment it sounds like there maybe a hardware fault. If no joy after that one last try, I would perhaps speak direct to Sonos Support Staff via this LINK.

Plugging the Beam directly into my router via an ethernet cable did not change how the Beam was acting. Still just flashing white with no option to connect. When I would be able to see the Beam in the app to connect to (as if it were a new device), I also would not get any chime to confirm the connection so it would end up failing every time.

Whether you own the NVIDIA Shield TV (2019) or the Pro variant, there may come a time when you need to clear everything out and start fresh. Thankfully, factory resetting an NVIDIA Shield TV is just as easy as factory resetting any Android phone or tablet.

The best and easiest way to delete all the data off your NVIDIA Shield TV (2019) is to factory reset it, which will wipe all user data and return the device to its original condition for you to set up from scratch again. You can't undo a factory reset, so be sure to back up any local videos or files on your Shield TV (2019) you want to keep.

Your NVIDIA Shield TV (2019) will begin factory resetting itself, deleting all user data, apps, and logins.The process itself takes just a few minutes, after which your NVIDIA Shield TV (2019) will reboot and bring up the beginning prompts to set up the device like new.

The best Android TV streaming box.

In terms of both hardware and software, the NVIDIA Shield TV 2019 is simply the best Android TV streaming box you can buy. It's a little pricier than other Android options, but you get a fully-featured Android TV experience, a capable gaming machine for streaming PC and Android games, and it's all backed by NVIDIA with great customer service and software support.

Stream your favorite AAA games with ease.

The NVIDIA Shield TV Pro (2019) has the same Tegra X1+ chipset as the regular version, but you get 3GB of RAM, 16GB of storage, and two USB ports that let you attach an external storage device. You also get the ability to play AAA games, so if you're looking to get a streaming box for gaming, the Pro variant is the default choice.

I think there's a fault in the box. I'd report that and get the box changed - but this is the third one I've had and they've all been sub-standard in some way. This one, at least, has a fault that I can usually deal with.

As I said, I've just done the regular reset. Because I've done it so often, I'm well aware of how to do it so that the box retains my recordings. But this evening, that didn't work. Once the box came back to life I had no recordings and no planned recordings. And previously, the disk was about 50%.

I've had enough. I'm paying 65 a month for a service that just isn't fit for purpose. It's simply not worth what I'm paying you. I know I'm still under contract, so it would cost me to get out. But maybe that's not the case it you're not providing the service I'm paying for.

I've been a customer since VM began. Before that I was with ntl and C&W. But I've finally had enough. As soon as I can get out of this contract, I'm off. I'm going to switch to another broadband provider and buy a Freely TV.

The factory reset you performed probably wouldn't affect the internet connection, but it shouldn't have resulted in you losing your recordings. My 360 updated overnight to version 5.10. It's possible yours did this unsuccessfully due to a loss of, or poor internet connection.

My 360 box is connected using an ethernet cable. It's the one that VM gave me. I can certainly try switching it for another one. But it'll be a couple of weeks before I'd expect to see the symptoms starting to recur.

Note: Removing the hub will restore its factory settings. All device connections, Automations, Scenes, configurations, and SmartApps associated with that hub will be permanently deleted. All devices connected to your hub will have to be reset or excluded before they can be reconnected. Deleting the hub alone does not reset the Shield Hub or Link's local Z-Wave and Zigbee connections.

The biggest risk of a factory reset is the loss of data and your customized settings. A factory reset will wipe your device of all data, apps, and any personalized formatting. It is literally resetting your Android back to the state it was in when you first purchased it.

One of the most common reasons to factory reset an Android is to sell or donate it. In this case, the factory reset ensures the removal of all personal data, safeguarding your information from unauthorized access.

What does that mean in practice? It means that you can connect to public Wi-Fi networks (like at your favorite coffee shop) without making your device more vulnerable to hackers. It also helps prevent companies from (digitally) watching over your shoulder as you work or explore on the internet.

I have an 800 that has stopped seeing inputs on all projector drivers. I even added a driver for a projector that was from the C4 driver DB and it shows no inputs. Currently have my projector setup as a TV. I tried a virtual director and it shows the inputs so I know its not the driver. I tried to create a new project on my 800 and it still shows the same issue.

Thanks C4Programmer. I actually thought the same thing. I tried to factory reset using the button on the back and creating a new project from scratch but it still does the same thing. Is there another way to factory restore?

The only way I am aware of to use the factory restore button is to hold the button until you see both the data and link lights come on for about 1-2 seconds and release. If you have a TV hooked up to the video output it will prompt you to release to perform a restore, way easier.

Thanks C4Programmer! It looks like the issue was that I was not holding the button down long enough on the 800 for the factory reset. I added some rooms quick and a projector and it shows the inputs now. Going to build it out from scratch. Love the programming part and a great way to get through a sick day.

I recently upgraded to Gigabit service and did not see the expected speeds. I bypassed the router and connected directly to the modem (Hitron E31N2V1)....sure enough, after rebooting both, the speeds were there. As such I tried a minimal boot and plugged 1 CAT6 into the back of the router to the one in the back of the modem and a CAT5e from the router to the PC and saw a massive reduction in speeds (from 920 to 450 Mbps). Why? Isn't it just: Gigabit WAN > Gigabit LAN > Gigabit LAN (PC)?

The only thing I haven't tried is a factory reset which seems a little extreme if it's just a setting within the router.

The firmware is up to date. I'm not using QoS, although I am using access control. Both of these settings, I would think, effect WiFi performance and not the wired connection to my PC. With only my PC and an NVIDIA shield hardwired, should I just give up on the router and simply use the modem/WiFi router setup? I was getting very close to a true 1 Gigabit speed....which even through some signal loss would be sufficient.

Any help would be appreciated. Again (NOT a WIFI issue, don't care about WIFI) and lastly, why am I not seeing my provider speeds running from the modem to the router to my PC (all wired), whereas if I go from my PC directly to the modem I do see the provider speeds.

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