Oven not controlling

[crm617]

I'm looking for someone who has mechnical background on the operation
of the oven controller. etc. My large oven isn't controlling. I'm very
mechnical, just need some help with how it all works. I have a
RCI-645J and have already installed a new oven sensor which I thought
was the problem. It was not even turning on, with the new sensor it
does come on, but does not control. It now just goes to full
temperature ~500 deg's.

Or if anyone knows of someone that I can contact that has Flair
knowledge.

[Whatt...@aol.com]

i'll need to go through the postings archives, but Loren

had given an excellent description on how to adjust the thermostat.

i remember what sounded so interesting to me as to be

very careful and make sure your turns are very small. the slightest

little turn could actually cause the temp to change nearly 50 degrees.

i'll look and see if i can find it and repost.

Carol :)

 

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[Page]

Thanks, Carol.  We inspected the cord and it looks OK.  Since the burners work fine, we don't think it is that.  The original and replacement thermostat produce the same result.  It is not just off temp, it won't heat past 100 degrees on any setting.

[Dave]

Hi again Page,   That almost sounds like a bad bake element. The top broil will put off some heat, but not enough to bake with. I have seen that many times in the type of work I do. Turn it onto bake and see if the bottom one heats. Check it just a few seconds after turning it on so you don't burn yourself tho !  If you have 220V. to the "element" and it won't heat its most likely a bad conection or a bad bake element. Its usually something simple to find, and much cheaper than replacing parts, Hope this helps, Dave      --- On Thu, 10/14/10, Page <pageh...@gmail.com> wrote:

[Page]

Thanks, Dave.  It's not the element itself.  The new one does exactly the same thing.  Both bake and broil elements are replaced and both just barely get warm, perhaps 100 degrees or so.  Maybe it's the connector, but it looks like you might have to remove the unit from the counter to get to it.  If so, I'm not inclined to do that.  I just had work done all around it that I don't want to damage.  It's getting closer and closer to the parting-out bin.   -p

[Mark Day]

1/4 turn

>>> <Whatt...@aol.com> 10/14/2010 12:35 PM >>>

[Dave]

Ok, I would say you have 120V. going to the oven element. Bad connection either in the clock, bake/broil switch, or a wire off on something that controls the power to the bake element. Its really hard to say not being their and doing a check on it. Any appliance serviceman should be able to find that in minutes. Wish I had a answer for ya but its hard to pin down here. Sounds like you have a keeper range tho after replacing those parts, Dave. Hope it works out for you.

[Mark Day]

Wire fried from lightning !

>>> Dave <dave...@yahoo.com> 10/14/2010 5:28 PM >>>

[Page]

Ha.  Well, my serviceman, who supposedly specializes in old appliances, couldn't figure it out.  But, I think you are right, Dave.  In fact, I took the clock/switch mechanism off and it has burn marks on all four mounting screws, indicating that it took an electrical hit.  I am going to try to figure out the wiring to the relay and bypass it.  I'm going to jumper the posts with a fused wire, just in case I'm wrong.  We'll see if that fixes it. -p

[Dave]

I have bypassed the oven circuit on many anolog clocks years ago because the clock  was bad and "it worked". All that has to do with your range is start and stop times that I would never use anyway. I have seen more than one house fire because of customers having their ovens start while at work so the roast could be done when they come home. Same thing with time delays on dishwashers. "flooded homes" !  because the watervalve or float stuck. After 25 years of doing this type of work I know what can happen. Keep me updated on your Flair.

[Page]

OK.  Looking at the relay now.  It looks like a SPDT.  So, it seems that when in "manual" both circuits, marked A and B in the last photo below, should close.  The fact that these appear to be 120V supports that assumption, since it would take two circuits to get 220V. But only A closes now.  So I am going to try to jumper each set of contacts A and B.  Dave, I hope I'm guessing right here.  I'm currently looking for fuses I can use in the jumper wires.  It is hard to find 20A in-line fuse holders.  By the way, you can see the burn marks from the lightning strike at the mounting screws.

 

 

[Dave]

I have one in the shop just like that I'm doing work on for a customer. Maybe you can send a messege on my personal email so we don't plug up this site and then I can better assist you with the range. Maybe I can also make the photos bigger, Dave

[Thomas Nichols]

Dave

 

Are you kidding me? This is fantastic, I am on the edge of my seat, listening to all of you trouble shoot the problems, this is how I am learning too. If you guys go private, then it will make it a lot harder when I might have similar problems.

 

I don't know about the rest of you, but that is what this blog is for, is to help others keep their Flairs up and running and  we get

to listen to your diagnostic dialogue it will help all of us in the trouble shooting process, and not give up so easily.

 

More often than not, many give up so quickly because it is complicated or too unfamiliar, and junk the Flair and get a new stove and move on. If we stick with it, it becomes far more rewarding, and it becomes more than just a stove, but a lifestyle.

 

Your comments are always welcomed. I have printed other Flair owners dialogues and put them in folders in categories, so when the time comes for that area of expertise, I can go to my file and see what other Flair owners have discussed and what resolutions were found.

 

I thank you for your time and efforts. Best regards to all.

 

Tom Nichols

LA TOM

---

From: Dave <dave...@yahoo.com>
To: frigidai...@googlegroups.com
Sent: Fri, October 15, 2010 10:52:58 AM

[Page Heller]

Well, I could not find an in-line 20A fuse holder.  I decided to give the jumpers a try with my brother standing by to put any fires I might start.  Anyway, I was right. Lightning knocked out the relay, one set of poles.  I used two 12 gauge wires with dueler crimp-on connectors on each end to bypass the relay. It worked!  I now have oven and broiler. They cycle perfectly. 

We had a scare. Right when I turned on the oven, the light blew out! We both jumped. I see in the photos that it had been marked by the lightning, so I think it was damaged and was just collateral damage. Now, I need a lamp!

Thanks, Dave. When only one side of the relay works, the elements only get 110V and just heat to a little more than 100 degrees. That's the moral of the story. 

Sent from my iPhone

[Email - The Littles]

I agree, Dave!  I love reading all of this.  Can’t absorb it  all, but I am glad you are doing it.  I may be in the same boat someday!   I am keeping my Flair until it dies a hard death and all the parts in the world have been lost forever!

 

Angie

[Dave]

Hi Page,  Glad to hear you got it going !   And to Tom, Glad to hear your ok with all the back and forth stuff as I really do give it my best shot. Ok folks, enjoy all the great meals in them Flairs !      --- On Fri, 10/15/10, Page Heller <pageh...@gmail.com> wrote:

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From: Dave Sent: Thursday, October 14, 2010 4:28 PM To: frigidai...@googlegroups.com

Subject: Re: [frigidaire-flair] Oven not controlling

Ok, I would say you have 120V. going to the oven element. Bad connection either in the clock, bake/broil switch, or a wire off on something that controls the power to the bake element. Its really hard to say not being their and doing a check on it. Any appliance serviceman should be able to find that in minutes. Wish I had a answer for ya but its hard to pin down here. Sounds like you have a keeper range tho after replacing those parts, Dave. Hope it works out for you.

--- On Thu, 10/14/10, Page <pageh...@gmail.com> wrote:

From: Page <pageh...@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [frigidaire-flair] Oven not controlling To: frigidai...@googlegroups.com

Date: Thursday, October 14, 2010, 2:56 PM Thanks, Dave.  It's not the element itself.  The new one does exactly the same thing.  Both bake and broil elements are replaced and both just barely get warm, perhaps 100 degrees or so.  Maybe it's the connector, but it looks like you might have to remove the unit from the counter to get to it.  If so, I'm not inclined to do that.  I just had work done all around it that I don't want to damage.  It's getting closer and closer to the parting-out bin.

-p

From: Dave Sent: Thursday, October 14, 2010 2:38 PM To: frigidai...@googlegroups.com

Subject: Re: [frigidaire-flair] Oven not controlling

Hi again Page,   That almost sounds like a bad bake element. The top broil will put off some heat, but not enough to bake with. I have seen that many times in the type of work I do. Turn it onto bake and see if the bottom one heats. Check it just a few seconds after turning it on so you don't burn yourself tho !  If you have 220V. to the "element" and it won't heat its most likely a bad conection or a bad bake element. Its usually something simple to find, and much cheaper than replacing parts, Hope this helps, Dave

--- On Thu, 10/14/10, Page <pageh...@gmail.com> wrote:

From: Page <pageh...@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [frigidaire-flair] Oven not controlling To: frigidai...@googlegroups.com

Date: Thursday, October 14, 2010, 1:18 PM

Thanks, Carol.  We inspected the cord and it looks OK.  Since the burners work fine, we don't think it is that.  The original and replacement thermostat produce the same result.  It is not just off temp, it won't heat past 100 degrees on any setting.

From: Whatt...@aol.com Sent: Thursday, October 14, 2010 11:35 AM To: frigidai...@googlegroups.com

Subject: Re: [frigidaire-flair] Oven not controlling

[Page]

My happy Flair.  Next to it is a Crosley radio and Presto perculator.  -page

 

 

[Whatt...@aol.com]

Awesome!

[Dave]

Hello Flair Queen ! You got all the good stuff !!!!   Just saying hello from Minnesota ! Even tho I don't have one I sure do like helping the folks out that do have them. I have a Frigidaire gas but its not from the 60s. I might grab one someday soon tho.  Hope things are all good for u guys, Dave.      --- On Fri, 10/15/10, Whatt...@aol.com <Whatt...@aol.com> wrote:

[Mark Michael]

Dear Angie,

If Neither Oven Works I Could Possibly Be The Relay If Your Oven Has One We Have A Compact 30 And The Oven Part Quit Working And It  Was The Relay And If You Are Looking For Some Spear Parts For Your Range I May Have Them Or Have Some Of The Parts.

 

                              Thank You,

                               Mark Micchael

---

From: Email - The Littles <Em...@TheLittles.com>
To: frigidai...@googlegroups.com
Sent: Fri, October 15, 2010 11:35:13 AM
Subject: RE: [frigidaire-flair] Oven not controlling

,

[Dave]

I have a bake element for a 635-2  which is a plug in type so if someone needs one it goes cheap, Dave.

--- On Fri, 10/15/10, Whatt...@aol.com <Whatt...@aol.com> wrote: